OB19 in SW FL
- Cracker Larry
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Re: OB19 in SW FL
Wade, our Lowes carries Gator Grit hook and loop 5" in a 50 grit. It's good paper. I think it's about $18 for 50 disks.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose
Re: OB19 in SW FL
That sounds like a good price - I'll check them out!
Completed : OB19, CC14, GV10.
Re: OB19 in SW FL
Well, I'm about 3 weeks into the fairing process. I've now completely faired and sanded 2 coats on the entire hull, and the 3rd coat is on and 1/4 of the way through sanding. I'm now getting to where I'm barely getting down to any of the tape seams, and the rest looks like it's going to be pretty fair as well. I think the next step is to use the longboard. I've put in a lot of time so far, and I don't think the longboard will show too much.
Question:
I'd like to use a coat of something (paint) as a guide coat for using the longboard. So, what should I use as a guide coat? After longboarding it, do I need to completely sand it off before priming and painting? What if I need more fairing, can the fairing epoxy go over the guide coat?
Thanks, Pictures to come soon, but not very exciting to watch right now... Just take my word, it's smoother than it was 3 weeks ago...
Question:
I'd like to use a coat of something (paint) as a guide coat for using the longboard. So, what should I use as a guide coat? After longboarding it, do I need to completely sand it off before priming and painting? What if I need more fairing, can the fairing epoxy go over the guide coat?
Thanks, Pictures to come soon, but not very exciting to watch right now... Just take my word, it's smoother than it was 3 weeks ago...
Completed : OB19, CC14, GV10.
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Re: OB19 in SW FL
Once you think you have it fair, apply several coats of primer. I highly recommend the System3 Yacht primer. Speckle paint over that with cheap fast drying spray paint. Then Longboard. The S3 primer is epoxy based, and you can add fairing compound over it. Wash, Rinse repeat for a yacht finish. Takes more patience than I have.
Re: OB19 in SW FL
Ah HA! - that's how to longboard and then fair out the lows. Makes perfect sense. I'd even bet it's chemically compatible with Quickfair... I'll check first, but sounds like a plan. Now I need to order more supplies again.
wade
wade
Completed : OB19, CC14, GV10.
Re: OB19 in SW FL
Yes you can put QF over the primer, no problemo
Good fishing and red skys at night sailors delight
C17ccx, Mirror Dinghy
C17ccx, Mirror Dinghy
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Re: OB19 in SW FL
Wade, I have a seacraft question for you. Made a new thread.
If you dont mind ...
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24643
If you dont mind ...
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24643
Re: OB19 in SW FL
So I finally had a weekend in town without major plans. Unfortunatly, after beeing out to ftown the prior 2 weekends, I had a large"honey-do" list, (plus I wnet fishing on Sat.) So, the only thing I got accomplished is to post-cure my boat. For this, I took the dark blue Sunbrella tarp from my 23' boat and draped it over the OB19. Then I monitored the temps inside, after rolling it out into the sun. I got about 130 degrees F, but managed about 123-125 for at least 5-6 hours.
I'm not sure if that will make a difference or not, but I figured if it's going to print through, I'd much rather it do it now before the final fairing and high-build primer. What do you think, was it worth it?
wade
I'm not sure if that will make a difference or not, but I figured if it's going to print through, I'd much rather it do it now before the final fairing and high-build primer. What do you think, was it worth it?
wade
Completed : OB19, CC14, GV10.
Re: OB19 in SW FL
No, I haven't forgotten about my boat, despite the lack of documentation. Work has been slow, with the holidays, etc... Plus Gag grouper are going to be closed soon, so a couple weekends were spent refilling the freezer. Anyway, I've been fairing, and fairing, and fairing. The boat took me about 3 coats of fairing to do. I have not been very efficient, I don't think. I've been laying on relatively thick layers of blended filler, and sanding about 60% off, then re-applying, then sanding, etc...
Lots of dust flying, the whole garage is a dusty purple. I've swept up pounds of dust. Not very efficient, yes, but with good results. Most of this was done with a RO sander with 40 grit, and the final touches between 2nd and 3rd coats with the longboard. I do hope the boat won't be 'wavy' when all glossed up with paint, but I'm pretty sure I'm done with that part of the build.
So this past weekend, I made some new progress: I've installed teh first of 2 layers of rubrail - 3/8" thick marine ply ripped to about 1.5" wide. I used the plan of pre-drilling, dry fitting, then coming back with GelMAgic. Worked like a champ, now it's setting up, I'll remove the screws, and repeat with the second layer.
Also, I cut two extra lengths of 8'long by 1.5" wide plywood, laminated two 3/8" thick together, rounded the top edge, and installed those as dual keels - about halfway between the stringers on either side, all the way to the transom. this will hopefully help with tracking both under power and under tow while not disturbing the water flow to the prop. They also don't increase the draft any due to the deadrise. Glued those down with GelMagic and screwed from the inside of the boat to hold them into place, then filletted and laminated 2 pieces of 4", 9oz woven tape over them, all wet-on-wet. They are curing also, will remove screws. I could have used 1 layer of the 12 oz biaxial tape, but the woven makes is easier to get to round the edges, and this small job was all edges. I also hope this means less fairing since I'm mostly done with that.
Pictures to follow soon.
wade
Lots of dust flying, the whole garage is a dusty purple. I've swept up pounds of dust. Not very efficient, yes, but with good results. Most of this was done with a RO sander with 40 grit, and the final touches between 2nd and 3rd coats with the longboard. I do hope the boat won't be 'wavy' when all glossed up with paint, but I'm pretty sure I'm done with that part of the build.
So this past weekend, I made some new progress: I've installed teh first of 2 layers of rubrail - 3/8" thick marine ply ripped to about 1.5" wide. I used the plan of pre-drilling, dry fitting, then coming back with GelMAgic. Worked like a champ, now it's setting up, I'll remove the screws, and repeat with the second layer.
Also, I cut two extra lengths of 8'long by 1.5" wide plywood, laminated two 3/8" thick together, rounded the top edge, and installed those as dual keels - about halfway between the stringers on either side, all the way to the transom. this will hopefully help with tracking both under power and under tow while not disturbing the water flow to the prop. They also don't increase the draft any due to the deadrise. Glued those down with GelMagic and screwed from the inside of the boat to hold them into place, then filletted and laminated 2 pieces of 4", 9oz woven tape over them, all wet-on-wet. They are curing also, will remove screws. I could have used 1 layer of the 12 oz biaxial tape, but the woven makes is easier to get to round the edges, and this small job was all edges. I also hope this means less fairing since I'm mostly done with that.
Pictures to follow soon.
wade
Completed : OB19, CC14, GV10.
Re: OB19 in SW FL
One thing I noticed with the rubrails is that they take a pretty good amount of elbow grease to get to ben to the shape of the sheer. At first, I thought I had to cut them to match the shape of the sheer. Then I came back here and did some research, seems noone else had to. So I went back out there and used some extra screws and elbow grease, and that worked fine! Tomorrow I'll go take all the screws out (maybe 25-30 per side) and look into dry-fitting the next layer.
does 2 thicknesses of 3/8" ply, 1.5" wide seem like enough for the rubrail? Or do I need 3. (I know the answer is in the building notes, but what have other people been sucessful with?)
does 2 thicknesses of 3/8" ply, 1.5" wide seem like enough for the rubrail? Or do I need 3. (I know the answer is in the building notes, but what have other people been sucessful with?)
Completed : OB19, CC14, GV10.
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