Topwaters NV23

[topwater]

How do you insert a pic for your icon?
There is a fishing pic in my gallery , i tryed to edit it in and it didnt work.

[TomW]

TW try to see if you can shim the bottom of the frame to get it square. It may just be off a little in one place or so where your concrete is no level. I looks like you built the frame correctly.

[topwater]

Tom i did shim the jig, if you look at the bottom of the jig you can see the brown shims.
I dont think thats the problem. I used a water level to level the frames and they are level.
the problem the faces of the frames are not square to each other. I started with the middle frame
and then the transom then put the stringers on then the rest of the frames. If you look at the pic
of the jig from the bow the frames are wandering to the right hand side of the jig the farther i go
towards the bow. The only thing i can think of is the jig moved when i placed the frames on. Once i
get square again i will bolt it to the floor. I dont want to drill holes in the floor but i will if i have to.

[cape man]

Go to User Control Panel, edit profile, edit avatar and you can upload pics from a url or directly from your computer...

[macs]

Nice fish!

What's wrong with this picture?

Is it August or is it crab season in the Bering Sea?????

[bbuckl]

I also envy your shop.
In regards to your jig, as you have discovered, those nice long 2x8 are free to bend in the middle and knock things out of alignment. Instead of drilling holes in your floor, you can put a strongback on the vertical 2x8, so they are T or L shaped. X-shaped lattice could also help. Once you have it squared up, run a crayon or paint line along where the jig meets the floor, so you can tell when you bumped it... and can tell how far to bump it back...

[master5med3]

Hey Topwater,

Have you checked your jig to see if it is square diagonally, because I think you have measured your spacings for your frames from the stern moving forward and if your jig is not square your frames will run out to one side.

You are better off running a string line down the center of your jig, then squaring off the string line at your individually frame points.

Hope that helps.

Regards Con

[Hope2float]

Topwater
I would also use string to set the jig, but I would also use it guaged off each side to see if there is any runout. Two other things Maybe a few more cross beams on the jig. When the jig is good sheath as much of it as you can it will reduce the flex points to a minimum. I am getting ready to build my jig and have thought about the issues too. Another thing that I thought of are the uprights off the jig. being around wood everyday I have come to beleive that 70% of all lumber sold today has slight bows or twists. It also changes moisture content when left in the sun or brought indoors. When it begins to age it follows whatever bow it already has in a short period of time. I thought that by making the uprights out of 3/4 plywood in an L shape these could be made up checked for straightness and used as uprights for little more cost than 2bys. For the builders out there without a table saw measure your first 5" rip do your best to cut it straight, but don't worry if it is a little wobbly. Take the rip put the factory edge 1 7/16 back from the cut edge you just cut and clamp it to the remaining plywood and rip it again using the factory edge as a saw guide. Repeat the process. with remaing measurements at 6 7/16. This will give you 5" rips to construct uprights. It should yeild about nine rips. Back to the jig, I also think the whole jig can be sheathed and uprights attached on th outside. This would allow for using a triagle plywood corner of about three feet to square the stations to the jig and lock them in. I know it beginning to sound like yada yada yada I just want to draw a clear picture for beginner woodworkers. Tp the shop has reached holy s#$% will you look at that. That shop is incredible. It should be a joy to build in and move materials around in.
Dave

[topwater]

Thanks for all of the ideas guys I am going to rebuild it useing a few of the ideas posted.
It really is no big deal, a little waisted time but i am not in any rush i just want to do it right.
Hope2float good ideas with the ply , i was actualy going to use ply for strong back frames
but as of right know i dont have a table saw yet. I have looked at quite a few and still have
sticker shocke I am not a woodworker so a lot of this is new to me so i will have a lot
of questions about woodworking tools and how to use them. Now give me a pulse mig and a
plasma cutter and i would feel right at home
Mac's to funny with the pic. That was taken early in the morning off of block island RI.
It was cool out and overcast. I spent most of my life working outdoors in the northeast on
heavy equipment so i guess i have a higher tolorance for the cold. It really wasnt that cold
out.

[cape man]

Check Craig's list, ebay and other used sources for power tools. Lot's of folks out of the construction business and selling their tools for what they can get. A good table saw should last many years, so buying used is not a bad idea. Buy something with as much ass as you can. Overpowered is good when cutting wood.