Tom's FS14

[thb]

ONly bad thing that I can see happening is IF:
1. I let the 3 grandsons use it in the gulf and they decide to run where they should not. These teenagers today have good computer sense but zero comman sense or water sense.
2. I get swamped being out there when I should not have been or get caught in a summer storm or water spout.
3. some idiot scalloper puts their wake over the side of my boat. Gets pretty crazy around here with the scallop season.

Anyway, I will rest easier knowing she should not sink.

Tom in Steinhatchee

[thb]

While you guys were having fun in Boca this weekend, I got a little more done her this weekend. The meranti 1/4 ply sole pieces have been added over all the foamed in sections. Used wood flour mix on battons, top of foam and perimter and it seems like real solid. No give at all to the ply. Will cover with some 6 oz cloth today.

The 1/2 inch foam board for the rear seat has been cut out and possible outboard hatch locations sketched out. Still thinking about what size to make them as I have them now at 10" x 18". The storage space back there outboard of each stringer is about 36 inches long so big hatches seem to be in order. Was thinking I would use the cut out sections as the actual hatches themselves and use battons underneath to form the typical bateau hingeless hatch. Might have to use some velcrow to keep them from flying off when trailering the boat. any other ideas?

Was also thinking about using a round igloo cooler I have as my removeable bait well. Run a simple aerator and top it off with sea water every so often. Fits very nicely below the center seat level with the cooler top on or off. Not having it built in will result in a simpler and lighter boat. What do youall think??







Tom in Steinhatchee

[thb]

Update on my progress over the past several weeks. I seem to be slowing down some but that is the way it seems to go with boat building.

Have gotten all the sole pieces bonded down and covered with one layer of 6 oz cloth.

Hatches have been cut in the stern seat and structure added underneath them to support them.

Have figured out what to do about a bait well. It will be a removeable 48 qt igloo marine cooler which I had already and use in my current 18 ft flats boat. It will either be used as an ice chest or a bait well. It fits down thru the center seat but had to trim the cleats about 3/8 inch on each side of the fwd and aft frames to allow it slide in. It sits on the outboard sole sections and stringers.

A new bulkhead was added in the bow area to separate the anchor locker from the fuel tank area. Big access hole will allow you to stick your head in thru the fuel tank compartment and clean it out if ever required.

Have drilled the bilge drain hole and bow eye holes and backfilled with wood flour mix. Bow eye backup structure is three layers of 3/8 meranti rounded to fit nicely in the bow.

Breast hook and rear cleat pieces added out of some Honduran mahogany I had laying around.










Not sure how these photos are going to turn out as they seem to be thumnails on the preview.
Tom in Steinhatchee

[thb]

Will try again to get photos full size.








Tom in Steinhatchee

[thb]

Decided the cutout in the rear seat for the engine clamping and fuel line did not need to be there. Why have an engine well below seat level as this ads complexity to things. Took the cut out section of foam board and rebonded it to the rear seat. Made some 5 inch wide gussets underneath the fore and aft seams and glued it all up with wood flour and epoxy. Will add another batton underneath this section at the transom and then cover the top joint with some scrap pieces of S Glass. Will take some pictures later as its all clamped up right now.

If any water want to come over the transom when coming off plane or backing down, then it will be on top of the rear seat and not straight into the bilge. I will add some drain holes in the transom for the rear seat surface.

The fuel line can come thru another small hole to be added later.

I put my engine on the transom and I have clearance for the engine mount upper screw clamps. At 1-1/8 inch thick the transom screw clamps won't tighten up so I cut some 3/4 inch BS1088 Meranti to be a clamping board. Will wait until rear seat is glassed in and attached to the transom before I add the clamping board.

Progress is slow but I am in no big hurry as living in mainland China taught me patience.

Does anyone have some suggestions on a small battery to drive the bilge pump and bait well pump. Definately dont want something as big as a car battery. My motor has no charging circuity and is manual start so I will have to charge the battery from time to time. Not sure where to put the small battery. Any ideas?

thanks in advance for any inputs.
Tom in Steinhatchee

[FryFly]

Nice Boat Tom, We are slowly getting to the end of our little boat project too, it's great to see more FS14 being created. I look forward to seeing her splashed. I Will be interested in the reply's on the battery.

[thb]

Yes thanks. I have been watching your build come together. Yours should be neat when finished.

I don't know why it is, we smaller boat guys get so few responses sometimes to our questions. I am thinking motorcycle or riding lawnmower size battery myself. We wait to see if anyone has some suggestions.

A few pictures this morning of my rear seat deck after filling in the cutout which showed on the plans. Also the 3/4 inch meranti clampling board.






Also another question. Does anyone have recommendations on how much oversize to make holes when going thru the hull for filling with woodflour epoxy mix??? It seems like redrilling with the correct smaller size is difficult to get centered unless you have a jig or drill guide. How do expert builder guys get this done?? My calibrated eyeballs seem to work most of the time.
Tom in Steinhatchee

[Uncle D]

I haven't got to that point yet but I would think 1/4 to 1/3 larger than needed for larger holes and 1/2 bigger on small holes. Just guessing here guys. If you miss I guess you would redrill and fill again.

[Cracker Larry]

I almost always drill the hole 1/2" larger than the final size. This gives you a 1/4" epoxy collar, no matter the hole size.

I usually make a drill guide with a thick board. Drill a straight hole on the drill press through the board, then hold it against the hull to keep the bit straight.

[thb]

Thanks Larry. I will try this on a few of the remaining holes on this boat. I think I need some new forester bits to replace the couple I have which are worn out. This will allow me a greater choice to make 1/2 inch dia larger holes. Appreciate the input.
Any advice on battery size for this small boat?
Thanks again,
Tom in Steinhatchee