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Pro Wader FS18, SPLASHED

Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 4:08 pm
by Pro Wader
This weekend I finished my srtongback for our FS18. It's amazing how warpedand bowed, even the best lumber is.
I didn't think I would ever get the strongback square and level. Push a little here and pull a little there

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 4:22 pm
by Cracker Larry
Cool 8) Welcome. The FS18 is getting very popular :D We need pictures!

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 4:26 pm
by peter-curacao
Welcome and good luck with you're build 8)
pics please,I need my boat porn :P

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 10:19 pm
by Pro Wader
How do you eat an elephant?.......One bite at a time.
I am really excited about this project. As I do with most of my hobbies...I dive in head first.

For the last few years, I had a small rod building business and I recently decided to get out of it. Well I have to do something...and here I am.

The challenge was to build a strong back on wheels that I can roll in and out of the garage and still leave my wife plenty of room to park her suburban in the garage. Sounds simple, I know, but it's way more complicated in practice.

So this weekend I completed a few finishing touches on the strongback and started nesting the plywood.

I cut out the C and D frames with some scrap plywood I had and quickly came to the conclusion that I need A LOT of practice cutting plywood with a skill saw. Any tips will be greatly appreciated.

Now if I can just figure out how to load pictures
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 10:34 pm
by Prarie Dog
Looking good PW!! Hope that strongback doesn't crawl around too bad. I use the fine toothed carbide blades they sell at Home Depot to cut ply. Believe they cost about $50, on my GF build we went through on end part of another. The second blade is what I used to cut the ply for T's GF12 and it's still going strong. :)

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:07 am
by stickystuff
The main tip to cutting plywood with a skil saw is to set your blade height 1/4" deeper than the thickness of your material. if you are proficient with a saw and very comfortable with it you can cut a circle with it. I say this because I have used one for over 30 yrs. I have seen circles cut on a table saw by makeing a jig clamped to the table, find the center and set blade shallow, spin the plywood around one complete turn, raise the blade up anther 1/4 " , spin again, and so forth until it is through the material. makes a perfect circle and your center will be marked by the screw, bolt or whatever you used to mark center when you spin it. What you do is , lets say you want a 3' circle. Cut your plywood 3'1/2" square. find center and screw it down to your base template plate. The base is made by another piece of plywood with a piece of 3/4' strip that fits in the groove of your table saw. Screw this to your base plywood and clamp it or add another strip on the edge so it will not slide forwar or backwards. Measure from blade center outwards to the left 1'-6". Here you make a mark and this will be the center mark to fasten your other piece of plywood to. Use a screw just tight enough so you can spin the plywood around.With your blade all the way down turn your saw on and raise the blade up 1/4 " and make your first cut by spinning the plywood around, raise it again another 1/4" and spin again. do this until its through. the reason you make it 1/2" bigger than the circle you want is it is easier to cut this way. No excess large pieces to fly away when you cut it all the way through. Go slow and do not force it fast. The safest way is to use a good thin kerf blade with vents in it. The vents help to keep your blade from over heating and warping.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:51 am
by Jerry-rigged
Congrats on getting started!
Pro Wader wrote: I cut out the C and D frames with some scrap plywood I had and quickly came to the conclusion that I need A LOT of practice cutting plywood with a skill saw. Any tips will be greatly appreciated.
I am no pro, but what works for me:
#1 - use a thin kerf blade, I use a high tooth count "diablo" blade (the red ones) from Home Depot.
#2 - set the depth for 1/8 or so deeper then the ply. At this depth, you can cut an arc down to about 18" radius, maybe more if you are brave. Plus you can lay the ply on the grass and cut and the blade stays out of the dirt. :)
#3 - if cutting a straight line - use a straight edge clamped to the ply as a guide for the saw shoe. I have a 48" adjustable framing tee square that comes apart - the long beam works nice for a cutting straight edge.
#4 - cutting arcs - I try to leave a 1/16" and finish with a sander and 60 grit.

BTW, I am right up hwy 35 from you, so if you need a hand mixing epoxy or drinking beer, let me know. :lol:

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 2:46 pm
by Pro Wader
I'll take you up on that. You can never have too many people to drink beer with.[/quote]

I am no pro, but what works for me:
#1 - use a thin kerf blade, I use a high tooth count "diablo" blade (the red ones) from Home Depot.
#2 - set the depth for 1/8 or so deeper then the ply. At this depth, you can cut an arc down to about 18" radius, maybe more if you are brave. Plus you can lay the ply on the grass and cut and the blade stays out of the dirt. :)
#3 - if cutting a straight line - use a straight edge clamped to the ply as a guide for the saw shoe. I have a 48" adjustable framing tee square that comes apart - the long beam works nice for a cutting straight edge.
#4 - cutting arcs - I try to leave a 1/16" and finish with a sander and 60 grit.

BTW, I am right up hwy 35 from you, so if you need a hand mixing epoxy or drinking beer, let me know. :lol:[/quote]

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 2:57 pm
by tech_support
t's amazing how warpedand bowed, even the best lumber is.
And if you can find good stuff its expensive. I have recommended to a few people to make their strong-backs out of laminated particle board. A box of screws, liquid nails, and a few sheets of particle board will make a very straight and strong beam.

Nice trout in the Avatar by the way :)

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:01 am
by Uncle D
Where are you located? (if you don't mind) There are several of us Texans on the forum.

Don

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 2:06 pm
by Pro Wader
Uncle D wrote:Where are you located? (if you don't mind) There are several of us Texans on the forum.

Don
I'm in Angleton. 35 miles South of Houston.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 2:06 pm
by Pro Wader
Uncle D wrote:Where are you located? (if you don't mind) There are several of us Texans on the forum.

Don
I'm in Angleton. 35 miles South of Houston.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 2:06 pm
by Pro Wader
Uncle D wrote:Where are you located? (if you don't mind) There are several of us Texans on the forum.

Don
I'm in Angleton. 35 miles South of Houston.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 11:09 am
by Uncle D
Great boat for your area...or any area for that matter. :wink: Don't get up that way much any more. Farthest north I have fished in that region is east matagorda bay.

Don

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 11:49 am
by JohnC
Hey Charlie,
Welcome aboard! You'll find this forum to be very helpful and informative. Uncle D, I see he is about 50 miles NE of Port O'Conner :D
John

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 2:58 pm
by Pro Wader
Uncle D wrote:Great boat for your area...or any area for that matter. :wink: Don't get up that way much any more. Farthest north I have fished in that region is east matagorda bay.

Don
Don,
I fish mostly EMatty to Panther Reef and all points in between. We will have to meet up some day.
My avatar pic is a 9.25lb. trout I caught in EMatty.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 11:12 am
by Uncle D
Pro Wader wrote:My avatar pic is a 9.25lb. trout I caught in EMatty.

Did that win you a boat, motor and trailer?? 8O
JohnC wrote:I see he is about 50 miles NE of Port O'Conner :D
I was thinking that too. :D POC will be a blast with new faces too. I just hope I don't have to help build another dock so I can fish and visit more. :wink:

Charlie, you do know about the POC builders meet don't you? Should have another meet this coming year.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:25 pm
by Pro Wader
Uncle D wrote:
Pro Wader wrote:My avatar pic is a 9.25lb. trout I caught in EMatty.

Did that win you a boat, motor and trailer?? 8O
No I didn't win a boat with her, I caught her last winter before the freeze.
JohnC wrote:I see he is about 50 miles NE of Port O'Conner :D
I was thinking that too. :D POC will be a blast with new faces too. I just hope I don't have to help build another dock so I can fish and visit more. :wink:

Charlie, you do know about the POC builders meet don't you? Should have another meet this coming year.
I have heard of the builders meet and hope to get "BETSY" wet by then. Now that reality has set in, I think it will take mor time to get her finished than I anticipated. But I am still shooting for April or May.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 2:48 pm
by Pro Wader
I'm cutting ply today and taking a break so I thought I would put up a quick post.

The guy at Home Depot talked me into getting the Dremmel ROTO-Zip saw. Although the cutting is slow, it's nice not having to set up the square for every skill saw cut and just moving from one cut to the next. The motor and bit can get pretty hot but that's about the time I need to stop and take a break.

Like I said, the cutting is slow but it is simple enough for my daughter to use and I feel it's safe enough to let her cut.

So far I've been at it for 2 hours and and I have the back deck, A form, E from and what ever other is nested on that piece of ply wood.

I'll post some pics later. My beer is empty so I have to get back to work.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:26 pm
by Pro Wader
I'm done for the day. A sharp ROTO-ZIP bit makes quick work of the Okume but it dulls out pretty quick and that's when the WORK begins. I found out they have a carbide bit. I'll try one tomorrow.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:31 pm
by Cracker Larry
That's a lot of cutting for a Dremel Roto Zip 8O

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 3:11 pm
by Jerry-rigged
Pro Wader wrote:I'm done for the day. A sharp ROTO-ZIP bit makes quick work of the Okume but it dulls out pretty quick and that's when the WORK begins. I found out they have a carbide bit. I'll try one tomorrow.
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How hard is it to cut a straight line with that rotozip? I have a regular dremal, and a spiral cut / rotozip bit. It cuts quickish, but is a real b!t@h to make it run an almost straight-ish (within a 1/4") line... :doh:

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 3:52 pm
by Pro Wader
Jerry I used the roto zip just to get everything into smaller pieces then I trimmed them up with the skill saw.

The roto zip was a goo idea in theory but lacking in the practical application.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 6:05 pm
by Pro Wader
Well, I hope everyone had a great Christmas. Over the Christmas break I have had the opportunity to make a little more saw dust.
Have a HAPPY NEW YEAR!
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 12:17 am
by Prarie Dog
Looking good Charlie. :)

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 5:08 pm
by Pro Wader
I got my glass and epoxy in this week so I had a chance to tape the bottom and side sections together. Not having any experience glassing at all, I feel that I successfully passed another character building exercise LOL. Tomorrow I'll flip and tape the other side.

I don't find good deals often, but this week I found a two year old trailer that had been dipped in fresh water price.
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Time for a cold beer now. Have a good weekend.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:08 pm
by Pro Wader
Sometimes you have to pay for an education...one sheet of plywood at a time.

I planned on stitching the skiff together, but something just didn't look right. I really screwed up my stringers. Without going into a lot of detail on my screw up, there was no choice but to start over on my stringers. Building stringers out of scrap for the first time builder may not be the best idea

So with one piece of plywood left, I cut eight 41/8" strips, stacked them together and trimmed the stack down to 4". Now my stringers are uniform and straight. It also saved me a bunch of time from making them from scraps.

Today is just another learning opportunity. I'll post pics later. WHEW! I need a beer.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:27 pm
by Cracker Larry
There wasn't any way I was going to piece together all those scraps to make stringers either :help:

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Glue them up first, then stack them and cut them together.

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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:00 pm
by Pro Wader
Larry.

I went back and looked at yours and I did these stringers just like yours.

Thanks for leading the way.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:00 pm
by Fishwater
Pro Wader wrote:I have heard of the builders meet and hope to get "BETSY" wet by then. Now that reality has set in, I think it will take mor time to get her finished than I anticipated. But I am still shooting for April or May.
I think nearly everyone had earlier finish dates than what the reality was. I started building mine more than 18 months ago. I figured I'd finish in 4-5 months. Life gets in the way of boat building. Since beginning, I've added a home, a child and gotten through most of a degree.

I had to remake my stringers too. I've had to do a couple of things twice. After finishing the interior frames and the rubrail, my brother in law, best friend, and I flipped it. I'm in the process of sharpening the edges, adding the skeg, and fairing. I commented to my wife today that I have a lot of work left...mostly sanding as I'm sure most builders will attest. A little more attention to detail in the front end would have saved me a lot of time. When I told her the next build would be a lot easier, she wasn't amused.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:51 am
by wegcagle
When I told her the next build would be a lot easier, she wasn't amused.
Mine had the same response. I approached her about 4-5 days later and told her that I was thinking about starting a weekly poker and cigar group, and that we would need the den every Wednesday from 8pm-MN.

After that she really seemed to like my boat building hobby :lol:

BTW my back up plan was to remind her of the strip club days. I knew that one would get her :wink:

Will

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:00 pm
by Pro Wader
Well I got the stringers done
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:05 pm
by Pro Wader
Stringers and knees are in and I'm stitching her together.
Now she's starting to look like a boat.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 11:54 am
by Pro Wader
I am going to write a country song, "God Forgive Me for Building a Boat." The name of every part on this boat has started with GD or JC.

Today I once again attempted stitching and gluing but something just didn't look right. While stitching the bottom keel together, the two sides did not come together cleanly like I've seen in other FS18 post.

It turns out I missed the "A" panel in plan updates.

I am going to write a song about this boat. LOL

DISCLAIMER:
This is intended to be a humorous anecdote to my first boat build. Please do not mistake my comments for me about to cut my wrist.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:01 pm
by Prarie Dog
We're pulling for you Charlie, hang in there. :)

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:04 pm
by gstanfield
It'll be OK. You just need more alcohol :lol:

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 12:55 pm
by Cracker Larry
Too funny. That "A" frame is pretty important :P

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 2:28 pm
by peter-curacao
Pro Wader wrote:I am going to write a country song, "God Forgive Me for Building a Boat." The name of every part on this boat has started with GD or JC.
ROFLImage Belief me o lot more of those to come, I think he doesn't care, if he did I should be in hell by now , 10 times :D

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 6:19 pm
by Pro Wader
Ok, I have the boat stitched up but now I have more questions than I did the day I started.

I tried to keep everything square and level but the lines of the chines didn't match up like I imagined. I don't know if it's good, bad or indifferent.

On the chines, the sides over hang the bottom. Do I just plane that down smooth after I glue it together?
The bottom and sides do not line up at the transom. Do I line up the sides with the transom and then screw the sides down at the transom?

The frames. There is about 1/8" gap between the C and D frames and the outside edge of the bottom. Is that OK?

There is also a slight hook on the bottom(1/8") between E and D frames.

Thanks for the input

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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:17 pm
by Dougster
Are those pieces of PVC backing preventing the bow panels from snugging up more? Also, I wouldn't plane anything yet. My LB22 build took a lot of tweaking at this stage, and I could have done better. Maybe let the ply rest and keep at it. I'd do what I could to make the chine fit before I planed the side panels. Also I'd keep fooling with the hump. I dunno think the 1/8" is any kinda problem. For me this was a head scratchin', take a sip of green rum and think on it kind of stage. I did end up planing off my side panels at the chine for a good fit, but ended up with a twist in the hull that I was able to remove with the frames and glass. Best to fool with it now 'till it's right I'm thinking. Better to wait and hear from someone who's already built her.

Admires the FS18s Dougster

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:39 am
by Cracker Larry
First off, I'd get rid of those pvc pipes, this boat doesn't need them.
On the chines, the sides over hang the bottom. Do I just plane that down smooth after I glue it together?
I don't know how that's possible :doh: The sides should hang from the bottom and tied flush to it with cable ties. Any overhang should be at the sheer. Don't plane anything yet!
The frames. There is about 1/8" gap between the C and D frames and the outside edge of the bottom. Is that OK?
An 1/8 gap is fine, no problem.
The bottom and sides do not line up at the transom. Do I line up the sides with the transom and then screw the sides down at the transom?
Yes, start at the transom and work forward. First line the bottom panels up with the outside transom edge and put a temp screw in each one. Don't drive it tight, just enough to hold it in alignment. Now loosely stitch down the keel line. With the keel stitched loose, hang a side panel up and align it's back edge with the back of the transom and drive a screw (not tight) through the side panel into the transom. Then put in a couple of loose stitches along the chine. Move to the other side and do the same thing.

Now start working equally down each side and along the keel, tightening the stitches a little at a time, keeping the tensions even all the way around. Be patient, keep fiddling, and if you cut the panels right it will come together perfectly.
There is also a slight hook on the bottom(1/8") between E and D frames.
I had the same thing, and ended up putting a piece of 1/4 plywood between E and the strong back, as a spacer to push the hook out. I also had to put some weight on the bottom to push the bottom down flush on the stringers.

Hope this helps. It's all about patience :wink:

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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:58 pm
by Pro Wader
OK sports fans,

I broke her down and re-stitched her one more time. Everything seemed to line up better. I got that little bit of rock out of the back end and glued her together. I don't even remember cussing putting her back together.

I guess that is how you get experience. Do everything 3 or 4 times, LOL.

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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 4:02 pm
by Pro Wader
Holy crap,

I looked at the pictures and the center line looked at crooked as a......

I went out and checked and everything looks fine. Just a bad picture. LOL

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:48 pm
by Cracker Larry
There ya go 8) Camera lenses tend to make everything look crooked, mine does that too.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:56 pm
by Pro Wader
Lessons Learned.
1. Pick a mentor who has or is building the same boat and follow their lead. (Cracker Larry) Pick one method to build your boat and stick with it. There is always a local yahoo, self appointed, subject matter expert that has built boats and thinks they know better. Don't listen to them.

2. Don't get in too big of a rush to lay fiberglass. It will come in due time
I did not take the time to have a smooth radius on my seems resulting in a lot of air bubbles. No matter how hard I worked to push them out they were still there.

I think all of Paul's pics of La Flaca got me over excited. ( I have to blame my screw ups on something other than me. LOL)

I ended up grinding out the seems, shaping a bigger radius and reglassing. The new glass layed nicely over the seems and I think it will work out well

3. Tivaec suits are only $9.00. What a great investment. No itch at all

4. I can make Quick Fare kick off in 5 minutes. I don't know what I did. I know I measured it out correctly (A=3.09oz :B=1.36oz by weight) but $h!t got HOT. Now I have to order more LOL

5.Do not be embarrassed for not knowing and take pride for figuring it out.

Questions

I have all of the seams fared and pretty smooth. The sides are ok but not super smooth. How much can I depend on the sanding primer to smooth out the sides? Do I need to spend a lot of time faring the bottom if I plan on using the graphite on the bottom?

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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:00 pm
by Pro Wader
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:15 pm
by Prarie Dog
Looks nice Charlie, better ditch the sheet, you might get accused of belonging to the Klan. :lol:

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:12 pm
by Pro Wader
This weekend I fitted the rub rails, trimmed the sides down and cut the transom.
My plan for the rub rail is to laminate 3 layers of 1/4" plywood strips. After I cut out my rub rail, I fitted the rub rail so I could see the line of the low shear sides. Once I got the line I was looking for, I cut the sides down. I left the sides a little long and I will sand them flush with the first layer of the rub rail.

After cutting the sides, I trimmed the transom and then glued down the first layer of the rub rail.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:19 am
by Mad Dog
Looking good. Just read your comment about the QF. I had trouble getting all of a batch spread before it kicked. I think I lost more batches QF than resin. It behaves just like resin so keep in mind all the tricks we use to extend the pot life of resin. One thing I think I ran into was taking to much time to work the area I was covering not realizing how long that was taking. In my mind, I figured the smoother I got the Quick Fair the less time I would have to spend sanding. I feel that was a mistake for me.

MD

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 1:49 pm
by Pro Wader
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 7:53 pm
by wegcagle
You do really nice work! That dang boat's gonna be done before 10 pages!!!

Will

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 8:22 pm
by Prarie Dog
Looks good Charlie, making very good progress!!

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:21 pm
by Pro Wader
Man it is AFRICA HOT!
I just finished glassing the interior seems
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 2:07 pm
by Prarie Dog
Looking good Charlie, nice work. :)

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:31 pm
by Pro Wader
I got the inside of the hull glassed in. Next stop: glassing in the stringers.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 9:50 pm
by Pro Wader
This weekend I made a little progress. I got my frames and stringers fitted. Then I spot welded ( for lack of better term) my stringers. After the stringers set up, I got them all glued in (Thanks Larry) with a little help from Cracker Larry. They are not as pretty as his but I got better as I went on. I finally got the stringers glassed in. It was too late to get any more pics. I'll try to post more tomorrow.

I start graveyards tomorrow so that will be it for a while.

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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 12:46 pm
by Pro Wader
Well the new job has kept me off of the skiff for a while but this weekend I had the opportunity to get back on it.
But, I'm dealing with a few mistakes that I am working through.

I have completed glassing in the frames. But after looking at Larry's, I think I made a mistake in precutting the holes for my PVC fuel and electrical chases. I may have to go back, clean up and reglass around the chase holes.

On another note; we have a local cabinet shop that has given me 100's of 1"x3/4"x 23" oak strips, that I plan to use for cleats. Do I need the cleat to run the entire length of the stringers and frames or can I use them like I have in the picture?

I don't know if the weight will make that big of a difference but weight is weight.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 3:49 pm
by Pro Wader
The cleats are not glued in yet. just fitting them to see if this will work like this.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 4:22 pm
by Uncle D
I ran mine the length of stringers, frames, chine and transom. On the soles and decks. And I have a bunch.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 8:11 pm
by johna
ran mine the full length also.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 8:13 pm
by TRC886
Pro Wader wrote:On another note; we have a local cabinet shop that has given me 100's of 1"x3/4"x 23" oak strips, that I plan to use for cleats.
It ain't white oak is it :?: Epoxy does not bond well to white oak, red oak is fine.
Start reading about 1/2 way down page 2 and read the first couple of posts on page three.
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... k&start=10

BTW: Boats looking good :)

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:22 pm
by Pro Wader
Thanks for the link. I think it is white oak. It's a good thing that I asked before I glued it all together.
I guess I'll go back to good ole yellow pine.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:49 pm
by Pro Wader
Well I'm still whittling away at it, a little bit at a time.
I have laid all of the foam and started fitting the sole and decks.
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:52 pm
by AtTheBrink
Looking good! Looks like there will be 3 of these boats out on the flats this spring.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 10:24 am
by Cracker Larry
Great progress there :!: Looks good! Yall keep on and you'll have enough FS18s in Texas to have a FS18 builders meet :D

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 11:13 am
by Fishwater
Cracker Larry wrote:Great progress there :!: Looks good! Yall keep on and you'll have enough FS18s in Texas to have a FS18 builders meet :D
I was thinking the same thing. I had a good friend call me the other day because he found out I was building one through the guy you built one for. Turns out he's got the itch bad and wants to have one splashed by summer. That would make 5 FS18s whose owners I personally know well not to mention the other half a dozen that seem to be around.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 11:18 am
by Cracker Larry
Tell him if he orders it now, I can have one ready for a spring splash :wink:

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 11:10 pm
by Pro Wader
Well it's all cosmetic now. I have the bow and stern decks glassed down. I'll fill and tape the seems tomorrow, cut out the hatches and start faring this week. Maybe, just maybe I can have her done by spring break.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 12:48 pm
by AtTheBrink
Lookin' Good! What weight cloth did you go with on the sole?

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 7:57 pm
by Pro Wader
Got a lot of stuff done under the decks; battery box, wire, bilge pump...
I got the hatches fitted. I don't know, I worked my butt off all day but didn't get near as much done as I planned.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 7:59 pm
by Pro Wader
AtTheBrink wrote:Lookin' Good! What weight cloth did you go with on the sole?
12oz biaxial.

Hoping to have her done by spring break but this damn job keeps getting in the way.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:26 am
by AtTheBrink
12oz ought to be plenty of protection! I am using 6oz woven cloth on the topside of mine.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:57 am
by Pro Wader
Gett'n a little closer.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 12:07 pm
by Southern Gent
PRO WADER, Man it's looking good. Keep up the good work.

Work Safe

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:31 am
by Pro Wader
Almost done. wiring done and fuel connections done under the decks. I need to glue down the back deck, glass in the seems and glass the gunnels. I just need it to warm up. (it's 31 degrees this morning but will warm up to 65.)
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Re: Pro Wader FS18, SPLASHED

Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 9:37 am
by Pro Wader
I ran out of wood flour, epoxy and time (and patience). So we'll call her done. I'm not real excited about the roll and tip finish. She needs a lot of faring on the topside, but she's fishable. I'll resand and shoot it in August when I'm not fishing. Until I get a poling platform, the ice chest will have to do.
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Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 9:52 am
by Cracker Larry
Looks good! Congrats on the launch 8)

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:20 am
by wildbill
May there be many Redfish & Trout in your cooler's.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:24 am
by Pro Wader
wildbill wrote:May there be many Redfish & Trout in your cooler's.
No, just beer.

Re: Pro Wader FS18

Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:41 am
by TRC886
She looks like she'll float in one inch of water 8O Congrats on the splash, she looks great :!:
No, just beer.
:lol: If I go fishing, I go fishing. If I want to drink beer, I go waterskiing, and that ain't much of a ski boat :lol: :lol:

Re: Pro Wader FS18, SPLASHED

Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 8:21 pm
by snookiehunter
Looks good. I like it. Any performance specs?

Re: Pro Wader FS18, SPLASHED

Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 8:44 pm
by AtTheBrink
I am probably going to be doing the same thing, splashing mine without the finished paint on her. Thanks for that idea. That sure would save alot of time and get me on the water quicker.

Your boat turned out great! Anxious to hear how she ran with that 30hp, real world draft numbers and stability.

Re: Pro Wader FS18, SPLASHED

Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 9:11 pm
by Hope2float
Congrats on the launch. Congrats on the launch. :D I second that comment maybe 3/4 if shes on plane. The great thing about these boats it can be modified or worked on at any point. Before, during or after the splash. GOOD LUCK
Dave

Re: Pro Wader FS18, SPLASHED

Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 9:12 pm
by Pro Wader
The draft is about 5". I didn't have my gps, but I can tell you the 30hp pushes her faster than I want to go. She gets a little squirelly at WOT. She didn't track as well as I wanted poling from the rear, but I was by myself. I need to adjust more of the weight to the front. I wanted to try the smart tabs before I went out and got the $450 Lenco's. They work ok. I have the 30lb shocks. I'm going to trade them in for the 20lb. and I think they will be fine.

Re: Pro Wader FS18, SPLASHED

Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 9:19 pm
by AtTheBrink
Weight up front makes a big difference when poling. Next time you go out alone throw your loaded ice chest up on the front deck for ballast or pole from the front deck. Poling from the front takes a little getting used to but is usually a good way to do it if you don't have ballast or another angler. She should track better with weight up there and float shallower being level instead of down at the stern.