Here's some pics of how Cracker Larry did it on his GF16 with the extra long shaft outboard:
Seadation's FS14 Build - Splashed 12 May 2012
- gstanfield
- * Bateau Builder *
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Re: Seadation's FS14 Build
Previous builds: FL14, NC16, and others...
Current build: FL14 (+10%)
Current build: FL14 (+10%)
Re: Seadation's FS14 Build
Two dogs to bring good karma to the build....check.Ugly 1980's recliner/moanin' chair in place...check.
The build looks perfect so far.
Rob
The build looks perfect so far.
Rob
Re: Seadation's FS14 Build
David,
I think you misinterpreted my comment about scabbing on to increase the transom height. I saw Joel's input and that is the only way to go unless you have a spare piece of ply to cut another transom out of.
So I assume you are building in your basement as originally planned. Floor's and walls covered was the dead giveaway. Got to keep it tidey for the OWMBO.
Keep up the good work.
Regards
Tom in Steinhatchee
I think you misinterpreted my comment about scabbing on to increase the transom height. I saw Joel's input and that is the only way to go unless you have a spare piece of ply to cut another transom out of.
So I assume you are building in your basement as originally planned. Floor's and walls covered was the dead giveaway. Got to keep it tidey for the OWMBO.
Keep up the good work.
Regards
Tom in Steinhatchee
Re: Seadation's FS14 Build
The dogs like to watch...and eat wood scraps. The chair is a Lazyboy from circa 1970...I remember the day my grandparents bought it for my great grandma...somehow it seemed to good too toss when the grandparents died so I ended up with it.Rob Eades wrote:Two dogs to bring good karma to the build....check.Ugly 1980's recliner/moanin' chair in place...check.
The build looks perfect so far.
Rob
That's right Tom...I'm working in the basement. Plastic partitions keep most of my mess on the 'rough' side.So I assume you are building in your basement as originally planned. Floor's and walls covered was the dead giveaway. Got to keep it tidey for the OWMBO.
I made a little progress this morning by getting the seams spot glued...here are a few pics to show the results
I needed downward pressure on the bow to get my bottom/side panels to align nicely...hence the stuff hanging from the bow.
Thats about it for now...
/david
Re: Seadation's FS14 Build
looking good, very clean work
Re: Seadation's FS14 Build
Thanks! I'm just muddling through with the help of the forum.a_Adel wrote:looking good, very clean work
/david
Re: Seadation's FS14 Build
After returning from the Christmas holidays, I have gotten back to work on the FS14.
I removed the stitches and filled the remaining gaps. Then, the edges where rounded.
I used Sureform rasps like Cracker Larry has recently recommended. They work good. I also discovered that a Nicholson #49 Patternmakers' rasp works well too. It is old technology and was designed to quickly shape wood. To my knowledge, the only Nicholson patternmakers' rasps made nowadays are the #49 and 50...the 49 is the 'rougher' of the two.
Next, I got a couple friends to help and we got the chines and keel taped. Then we glassed the bottom with the wide fabric. It was good to have helpers!
And tonight it is dry. There are some 'whitish' patches where the glass appears to have less epoxy on it. Is this normal?
Next, I'll make some sanding/fairing boards.
/david
I removed the stitches and filled the remaining gaps. Then, the edges where rounded.
I used Sureform rasps like Cracker Larry has recently recommended. They work good. I also discovered that a Nicholson #49 Patternmakers' rasp works well too. It is old technology and was designed to quickly shape wood. To my knowledge, the only Nicholson patternmakers' rasps made nowadays are the #49 and 50...the 49 is the 'rougher' of the two.
Next, I got a couple friends to help and we got the chines and keel taped. Then we glassed the bottom with the wide fabric. It was good to have helpers!
And tonight it is dry. There are some 'whitish' patches where the glass appears to have less epoxy on it. Is this normal?
Next, I'll make some sanding/fairing boards.
/david
Re: Seadation's FS14 Build
David,
Looking real good. The white areas may be a little starved of epoxy. Assuming the cloth is bonded well to the plywood in the white areas, I would just add some more epoxy to the cloth before beginning the fairing. Others with more experience in building will probably pipe in on this. I would not lose any sleep over it from what I can see in the photos. Good Job.
Regards
Tom in Steinhatchee
Looking real good. The white areas may be a little starved of epoxy. Assuming the cloth is bonded well to the plywood in the white areas, I would just add some more epoxy to the cloth before beginning the fairing. Others with more experience in building will probably pipe in on this. I would not lose any sleep over it from what I can see in the photos. Good Job.
Regards
Tom in Steinhatchee
Re: Seadation's FS14 Build
I have attached the rub rail. It is 3 layers of 1/4" material. I attached each layer 'dry' with screws, then detached it and applied Gel Magic from a bag. Sort of like how Shine shows in his FS17 build thread. It is an easy technique since now clamps are needed...the screws do all the work.
Then I built up the chines and transom to a sharp(er) edge. Again, I used the 'dam' technique Shine shows on his FS17 thread...except I should have wrapped my plywood dams with packing tape like Joel did instead of plastic sheeting which left a 'wavy' edge. Everything sanded down nicely.
Then, a little fairing and it was time for a Skeg and some graphite.
I mixed a 12 oz batch of slow marinepoxy and added 20% (2.4 oz) graphite (SIFTED) after mixing the epoxy well. Then I rolled it onto the hull with a foam roller - THIN coat. I used a chip brush for the skeg. It went on very smooth. It really revealed the areas where more fairing would have been nice. I will have to try to get the sides nicer before painting them. The was just a LITTLE bit left of the 12 oz batch.
Is it necessary to sand the graphite/epoxy between coats?
Thanks,
/david
Then I built up the chines and transom to a sharp(er) edge. Again, I used the 'dam' technique Shine shows on his FS17 thread...except I should have wrapped my plywood dams with packing tape like Joel did instead of plastic sheeting which left a 'wavy' edge. Everything sanded down nicely.
Then, a little fairing and it was time for a Skeg and some graphite.
I mixed a 12 oz batch of slow marinepoxy and added 20% (2.4 oz) graphite (SIFTED) after mixing the epoxy well. Then I rolled it onto the hull with a foam roller - THIN coat. I used a chip brush for the skeg. It went on very smooth. It really revealed the areas where more fairing would have been nice. I will have to try to get the sides nicer before painting them. The was just a LITTLE bit left of the 12 oz batch.
Is it necessary to sand the graphite/epoxy between coats?
Thanks,
/david
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Re: Seadation's FS14 Build
I think if you sit for more than a couple of days, you'll need to hit it light. lookin' good!!
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