CS 25 Stuart FL

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wegcagle
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL

Post by wegcagle »

Great job. Glad to see the walls. I could just see all of your customers walking out coughing and itching :help: :lol: you sure are making that look easy

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Walkers Run
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL

Post by Walkers Run »

Started fairing.
The bottom was real good to start so it's almost ready for primer. The top sides with all the curves (bow flair, Tumblehome) is a big job.

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first passwith blended filler
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starting to shape the bow flair
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Have a flat spot where the tumblehome should carry forward. I used a notched trowell to get a build up here. I saw this tip some where on this forum.
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molds in place to sharpen the chine edge and transom. used 3" strips of luan with clear packing tape on the inside, hot glued to the hull.
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peter-curacao
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL

Post by peter-curacao »

Walkers Run wrote:Started fairing.
The bottom was real good to start so it's almost ready for primer. The top sides with all the curves (bow flair, Tumblehome) is a big job.
I had the same experience! :wink:
Walkers Run wrote:starting to shape the bow flair
Good you noticed, this is indeed a big point of attention, if you take shortcuts on this point you end up with the same result I have! :?
Walkers Run wrote:Image
Have a flat spot where the tumblehome should carry forward. I used a notched trowell to get a build up here. I saw this tip some where on this forum.
This I don't understand, unless you are gone fill those "slots" you are going to sand away a lot of material/money :wink: Please teach me 8)

Walkers Run wrote:molds in place to sharpen the chine edge and transom. used 3" strips of luan with clear packing tape on the inside, hot glued to the hull.
Cool 8) still don't understand the sharp edge chine, but hey if you like it go for it 8)

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Cracker Larry
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL

Post by Cracker Larry »

WAY too much fairing compound! Jeez, that will take forever to sand off, and cost a fortune in materials, including sanding disks 8O You only need to fill the low spots enough to bring them even with the high spots. Don't use a notched trowel for fairing, use a smooth one. All those high ridges are doing nothing, costing money, and they have to be sanded off even with the troughs :?
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topwater
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL

Post by topwater »

If you go to the system three web site and look around they explain how if you use a notched spreader
when you sand you only hit the top of the peaks which is like a third less sanding area. Sands down quickly.
Also makes easy to see the low spots because you can see the valleys. Hit the valleys again and sand smooth.
Thats the way i understand it, also thats useing quick fair. I still have yet tried it, but i will. Maybe use
smaller notches.
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL

Post by cali123 »

I can see some value in using a notched trowel but have a couple of concerns about this technique. I read the directions on the Quickfare tub and it didn't address the adhesion problems created (if any ?) by re-coating cured,un-sanded filler. You need to be very careful when filling notches (or deep sand scratches) or you will trap large amounts of air. The filler needs to be pressed in very firmly in both diagonals to expel the air. Small pinholes are no big deal but large ones trapped beneath the surface will come back to haunt you later. They often will not show up until after its painted and in the sun when they expand and show as a blister. Faster and easier is not always better.

majorgator
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL

Post by majorgator »

WAY too much fairing compound! Jeez, that will take forever to sand off, and cost a fortune in materials, including sanding disks
I just got a little queasy thinking about fairing and sanding a CS25 :wink:
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Walkers Run
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL

Post by Walkers Run »

Cracker Larry wrote:WAY too much fairing compound! Jeez, that will take forever to sand off, and cost a fortune in materials, including sanding disks 8O You only need to fill the low spots enough to bring them even with the high spots. Don't use a notched trowel for fairing, use a smooth one. All those high ridges are doing nothing, costing money, and they have to be sanded off even with the troughs :?
none of that got sanded off. I used the notch size for the build up I needed. It was just a small flat spot forward of the transom where the curve did not carry forward enough. I should have put another slit in the panel or kerfed it before I glassed it. I'll post some more pictures later.
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peter-curacao
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL

Post by peter-curacao »

Walkers Run wrote:
Cracker Larry wrote:WAY too much fairing compound! Jeez, that will take forever to sand off, and cost a fortune in materials, including sanding disks 8O You only need to fill the low spots enough to bring them even with the high spots. Don't use a notched trowel for fairing, use a smooth one. All those high ridges are doing nothing, costing money, and they have to be sanded off even with the troughs :?
none of that got sanded off. I used the notch size for the build up I needed. It was just a small flat spot forward of the transom where the curve did not carry forward enough. I should have put another slit in the panel or kerfed it before I glassed it. I'll post some more pictures later.
Yep I had the same problem at the bow

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Walkers Run
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL

Post by Walkers Run »

Time for an update. Lots of sanding. I think the key to fairing is to convince others that sanding is fun. I've had no luck doing this, I'm just saying.
I got the lifting strakes on and glassed in.
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Also added an new crew member
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"Do. Or do not. There is no try" - Yoda
https://youtu.be/nzWO9FVJODo

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