Great job. Glad to see the walls. I could just see all of your customers walking out coughing and itching you sure are making that look easy
Will
CS 25 Stuart FL
Re: CS 25 Stuart FL
GV15, D4 done! Dreaming about the next one
- Walkers Run
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 524
- Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 4:01 pm
- Location: Palm City Florida
Re: CS 25 Stuart FL
Started fairing.
The bottom was real good to start so it's almost ready for primer. The top sides with all the curves (bow flair, Tumblehome) is a big job.
first passwith blended filler
starting to shape the bow flair
Have a flat spot where the tumblehome should carry forward. I used a notched trowell to get a build up here. I saw this tip some where on this forum.
molds in place to sharpen the chine edge and transom. used 3" strips of luan with clear packing tape on the inside, hot glued to the hull.
The bottom was real good to start so it's almost ready for primer. The top sides with all the curves (bow flair, Tumblehome) is a big job.
first passwith blended filler
starting to shape the bow flair
Have a flat spot where the tumblehome should carry forward. I used a notched trowell to get a build up here. I saw this tip some where on this forum.
molds in place to sharpen the chine edge and transom. used 3" strips of luan with clear packing tape on the inside, hot glued to the hull.
- peter-curacao
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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- Joined: Mon Mar 24, 2008 1:29 pm
- Location: Curaçao Dutch Caribbean
Re: CS 25 Stuart FL
I had the same experience!Walkers Run wrote:Started fairing.
The bottom was real good to start so it's almost ready for primer. The top sides with all the curves (bow flair, Tumblehome) is a big job.
Good you noticed, this is indeed a big point of attention, if you take shortcuts on this point you end up with the same result I have!Walkers Run wrote:starting to shape the bow flair
This I don't understand, unless you are gone fill those "slots" you are going to sand away a lot of material/money Please teach meWalkers Run wrote:
Have a flat spot where the tumblehome should carry forward. I used a notched trowell to get a build up here. I saw this tip some where on this forum.
Cool still don't understand the sharp edge chine, but hey if you like it go for itWalkers Run wrote:molds in place to sharpen the chine edge and transom. used 3" strips of luan with clear packing tape on the inside, hot glued to the hull.
- Cracker Larry
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL
WAY too much fairing compound! Jeez, that will take forever to sand off, and cost a fortune in materials, including sanding disks You only need to fill the low spots enough to bring them even with the high spots. Don't use a notched trowel for fairing, use a smooth one. All those high ridges are doing nothing, costing money, and they have to be sanded off even with the troughs
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose
- topwater
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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- Location: Port Charlotte
- Location: Florida
Re: CS 25 Stuart FL
If you go to the system three web site and look around they explain how if you use a notched spreader
when you sand you only hit the top of the peaks which is like a third less sanding area. Sands down quickly.
Also makes easy to see the low spots because you can see the valleys. Hit the valleys again and sand smooth.
Thats the way i understand it, also thats useing quick fair. I still have yet tried it, but i will. Maybe use
smaller notches.
when you sand you only hit the top of the peaks which is like a third less sanding area. Sands down quickly.
Also makes easy to see the low spots because you can see the valleys. Hit the valleys again and sand smooth.
Thats the way i understand it, also thats useing quick fair. I still have yet tried it, but i will. Maybe use
smaller notches.
Novi 23 finally launched !
Re: CS 25 Stuart FL
I can see some value in using a notched trowel but have a couple of concerns about this technique. I read the directions on the Quickfare tub and it didn't address the adhesion problems created (if any ?) by re-coating cured,un-sanded filler. You need to be very careful when filling notches (or deep sand scratches) or you will trap large amounts of air. The filler needs to be pressed in very firmly in both diagonals to expel the air. Small pinholes are no big deal but large ones trapped beneath the surface will come back to haunt you later. They often will not show up until after its painted and in the sun when they expand and show as a blister. Faster and easier is not always better.
-
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL
I just got a little queasy thinking about fairing and sanding a CS25WAY too much fairing compound! Jeez, that will take forever to sand off, and cost a fortune in materials, including sanding disks
- Walkers Run
- * Bateau Builder *
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- Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 4:01 pm
- Location: Palm City Florida
Re: CS 25 Stuart FL
none of that got sanded off. I used the notch size for the build up I needed. It was just a small flat spot forward of the transom where the curve did not carry forward enough. I should have put another slit in the panel or kerfed it before I glassed it. I'll post some more pictures later.Cracker Larry wrote:WAY too much fairing compound! Jeez, that will take forever to sand off, and cost a fortune in materials, including sanding disks You only need to fill the low spots enough to bring them even with the high spots. Don't use a notched trowel for fairing, use a smooth one. All those high ridges are doing nothing, costing money, and they have to be sanded off even with the troughs
- peter-curacao
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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Re: CS 25 Stuart FL
Yep I had the same problem at the bowWalkers Run wrote:none of that got sanded off. I used the notch size for the build up I needed. It was just a small flat spot forward of the transom where the curve did not carry forward enough. I should have put another slit in the panel or kerfed it before I glassed it. I'll post some more pictures later.Cracker Larry wrote:WAY too much fairing compound! Jeez, that will take forever to sand off, and cost a fortune in materials, including sanding disks You only need to fill the low spots enough to bring them even with the high spots. Don't use a notched trowel for fairing, use a smooth one. All those high ridges are doing nothing, costing money, and they have to be sanded off even with the troughs
- Walkers Run
- * Bateau Builder *
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- Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2012 4:01 pm
- Location: Palm City Florida
Re: CS 25 Stuart FL
Time for an update. Lots of sanding. I think the key to fairing is to convince others that sanding is fun. I've had no luck doing this, I'm just saying.
I got the lifting strakes on and glassed in.
Also added an new crew member
I got the lifting strakes on and glassed in.
Also added an new crew member
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