APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

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APLJaK
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Re: APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

Post by APLJaK »

Well, although I kept a build log on my local computer, I didnt post one. In an effort to preserve some of this infiormation and perhaps share some information, I intend to post some of the build information now, post build. As a result, some of the pictures may be slightly out of order. I didnt always document the process as well as I should have so have to sometimes use later photos to illustrate a point.

The begining:
plywood.jpg
HydroTek_BS1088.jpg
Sep2010 (12).JPG
Last edited by APLJaK on Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

Post by APLJaK »

The CX19 is a large boat and unfortunately, I simply did not have room to build indoors. Build started outdoors in my wife's garden. I soon found the need to add a tent. Even so, build was limited to summer months.

Preparation:
frame.jpg
strongback (11).JPG
strongback (10).JPG
strongback (21).JPG
Sep2010 (15).JPG

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Re: APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

Post by APLJaK »

Large side panels were assembled in my driveway and then moved to the construction site. The transom and intermediate frames were small enough to build in the garage.

Building and assemby of panels and frames.
transom (5).JPG
panels.jpg
uppersides.jpg
As parts were completed, they were moved to the strongback and initial assembly was started. In the picture above you can see the port side upper overlap panel. I left tabs on the panels during glue up to aid in clamping. These were subsequently removed.
strongback (14).JPG
In this picture you can see the cabin wall has been temporarily made from a piece of regular plywood. This will eventually be replaced with marine grade plywood as well but using a temporary structure here allows me to keep the hull lower to the strongback.
strongback (21).JPG
The transom is hung
strongback (27).JPG
The first bottom hull panels are draped over the skeleton. Here you can also see the temporary bow frames which will be removed later on in the process.
Last edited by APLJaK on Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

Post by APLJaK »

Once the strongback had been built and the station frames attached and aligned, the premade panels were hung over them and sticthed together. Learned some lessons here, it is easy to build in weird shapes. Make sure the bottom of the boat is flat and follows the stringers. Mine wanted to hump up just behind the bow. It took some effort to flatten the hump. In the end, I think it might have been due to me fastening the sides of the panels too tight which prevented them from moving out. Lesson is, take your time at this step. Once you start loacking panels together, you cannot change the hull shape. The infamous droopy bow also seems to occur at this step. In hindsight, I believe it is because the bow peak was allowed to move too far forwards. Again this was likely caused by me holding the side panels too tight towards the frames. It doesn't take much movement to change the overall shape of the boat.

Locking the panels together:
bottom panels (2).JPG
P1010402.JPG
I don't have a lot of pictures of this step. Essentially, I used a lot of different methods to align the panels, including zipties, wires, screws spacers, etc. Once the panels were aligned to the point I was happy, I locked them together with thickened epoxy tack welds. When the tack welds had cured, the temporary fasteners were all removed. Then the remaining panel spaces were welded together with more thickened epoxy. This meant use of tape as backing in some places to hold the epoxy in place. Once all the seams were welded, the first of many fairings began. In the picture above, you can see the upper overlapping panel (keep in mind the hull is upside down) still has a tab attached. I used these tabs to assist in clamping the panels together. They were cut off later.
readyforcloth_Sep2010 (10).jpg
Now, it starts to really look like a boat.
Last edited by APLJaK on Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

Post by APLJaK »

Now we are ready to tape and glass the hull. The build schedule calls for various different taping schemes. Refer to the plans for details. In my case, IIRC the main keel seam was three pieces of tape, one centered, and one each off center to the left and to the right.

Taping the seams
hullglass_Sept2010 (1).JPG
hullglass_Sept2010 (17).JPG
hullglass_Sept2010 (25).JPG
I also took this as an opportunity to start sealing the panels with raw epoxy. Red Solo cups quickly bcame my favourite container for mixing and using epoxy. They are cheap and the smaller size is great for mixing only a useable amount of epoxy at a time, especially on a hot day. Word of warning. If you leave a partially full cup too long and the epoxy starts to cure, the heat generated WILL melt the cup.

Once the taping was done, the job of glassing the hull can begin. Glassing the outside of the hull is a big job. However, as I would later learn, it is infinitely easier than glassing the inside!
June2011.jpg
CX19_June2011 (3).JPG
Again, not too many pictures of the process as there is not a lot of time to stop and take pictures. Once you start it is a long few days. I had help from my wife and daughter for this process. It is really nice to have help at this stage.

This is followed by, you guessed it, more sanding. The cloth contains a weave that stands proud after the epoxy cures and must be sanded out. Its also a good time to fair off any sharp or proud edges.
Last edited by APLJaK on Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

Post by APLJaK »

Once the hull had been glassed, the weave filled and everything faired to the point I was happy with or it, or at least didnt want to do anymore sanding, I gave the entire hull several coats of System 3 high build primer.
CX19_July2011_fairing (2).JPG
CX19_July2011_fairing (80).jpg
CX19_July2011_fairing (24).JPG
I also opened the side of the tent to get a better look at what was now starting to really look like a boat. In fact, I was so excited I couldn't help but flip the hull, even if only virtually!
Copy of CX19_July2011_fairing (24).JPG

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Re: APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

Post by APLJaK »

Back to reality. The hull is still uipside down on the building jig.

The next step was to add the appendages, including spray rail, etc. I spent a lot of time agonizing over these. In the end, I went with what you see below.
17Sept2011 (28).JPG
17Sept2011 (15).JPG
This was also a good chance to sharpen up the trailing edge of the hull to make sure the water would seperate cleanly off the back of the boat.
17Sept2011 (5).JPG
Once the spray rails and lifting strakes were attached, glassed and faired in place, it was time to coat the wetted part of the hull with an epoxy graphite mixture. The idea is to make a hard durable surface on the bottom of the boat where it is likely to see a lot of abrasive action. The first step was setting the Datum Water Line or DWL as per the plans. At this point, you really begin to appreciate how little water this big boat will draw. Draft is designed at 20cm or 8".
Oct2011_primer_graphite (14).JPG
Oct2011_primer_graphite (15).JPG
Oct2011_primer_graphite.jpg
Its now time to flip the hull. This is a major milestone in the build process.
Last edited by APLJaK on Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

Post by APLJaK »

Time to flip the hull. This means lifting the boat off of its construction frame and leaving the strong back behind. The hull is very flexible at this point and will require temporary reinforcing to ensure it stays in the correct shape. You also need something to flip it onto. Originally, I had intended to build a cradle to continue construction, but in the end I found a used trailer of the appropriate size so chose to use that instead. The downside of the trailer is that you don't have as much support of the hull as you would with a properly designed cradle. This means the next steps must always include double checking of the alignment of the hull. This is imperative until at least you have the frames and stringers welded into place.

Flipping:
P1010154.JPG
OK, so I didn't actually get any pictures of the flip. I was so worried about it, that it was all I could think about. In the end, a handful of neighbors and a bunch of their kids had it flipped onto the trailer before I even knew what happened. You can see here I have some temporary reinforcements installed to help hold the shape of the hull.

The next step is to tape and glass the interior of the hull. This is essentially the same process as for the outside, but it turns out it is much harder to work on a inside surface than an outside one. Especially when you really have few places to stand. The advantage here is that much of the glass work will be covered up during construction so you don't have to be quite so concerned with the finish;

Inner glassing:
2012-07-01 15.53.41.jpg
IMG_0306.JPG
IMG_0294.JPG
Last edited by APLJaK on Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:36 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

Post by APLJaK »

Now is the time to place the stringers back into the hull for the final time. This will be followed by adding the stations or frames in as well. Remember the temporary cabin frame? That now needs to be replaced with the final marine plywood frame. I chose not to fully cut the doorway at this point in order to maintain some rigidity in this panel. Now it is important to remember some of the building tips you have learned, especially the advice against creating hard spots. All members must be spaced away from the hull and the gaps filled with thickened epoxy. This is not really hard to do, but is time consuming and as it turns out, uses a lot of epoxy and filler. Quick note here. I had obtained about 5 gallons of very fine sanding dust from a local cabinet shop that worked very well as a thickener. For some reason, later in the build when I ran out of the original sanding dust, I could never find more that worked as well as the first batch. Im still not sure why, but keep this in mind if you try and use the same. Some works well, others not so well.

Stringers:
P8040033.JPG
A couple of frames being used to set the alignment and spacing of the strigers
P8040036.JPG
Here you can see the differences betweek the Inboard and Outboard stringers and how the knees fit to the transom. The stringers are imperative to transfer the force of the motor into the hull of the boat.

Frames:
Fall_2012 (3).JPG
Fall_2012 (8).JPG
Winter2012 (48).JPG
DSCF2960.JPG
Don't forget to add chase tubes. The larger and the more, the better. Ask me how I know this!

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Re: APJaK CX19 Coastal eXplorer in Kelowna, BC

Post by APLJaK »

Once the stringers and frames are locked in place there will be a noticeable improvement in the stiffness of the hull. The next step is to begin by adding the motorwell and associated floor. This is the time to carefully consider what options you want on your boat. If you need chase tubes, through hull fittings, drains, etc. Start thinking about where they will go, what additional construction steps might be required and where you might need backing plates. While some of this can be done later, it is much easier to anticipate the needs now. Also decide where you will put any hatches and if you are going to build them or purchase them. In the previous post you can see the beginnings of a home made hatch for the anchor locker. I built this into the frame before installing the frame in the boat. This makes construction much simpler!

Note: Although the build log shows distict steps in the evolution of the boat, reality was not nearly so organized. You can see from some of the floor pictures, that I had built the cabin before all of the floor was placed down. In fact, much of my progress depended upon whether or not I could work outdoors so I adapted my build to my reality. You will likely do the same. Don't worry about it, but always be thinking several steps ahead so you dont forget anything. Some people like lists, some people keep it in their head. I am in the latter camp and spend a lot of time just thinking about the next steps.

motor well:
CX19_Aug2013 (10).JPG
CX19_Aug2013 (11).JPG
CX19_Aug2013 (111).JPG
I then started closing off floor sections. First step is to add glueing strips around the outer perimeter of each compartment you are going to close, make sure it is completely watertight and then fill with marine expanding foam. This stuff is fun to watch but makes a hell of a mess - be careful.

Floors:
CX19_Aug2013 (6).JPG
CX19_Aug2013 (20).JPG
Looking down into the cockpit of the boat. Two partial floors on each side of the fuel tank compartment have been installed and glassed. The foward floor, which will be one piece, has not yet been installed.
CX19_Aug2013 (1).JPG
I chose to glass my floors and tab them to the hull sides for a completely water tight and super strong structure.
CX19_Aug2013 (112).JPG
Looking back through the fuel tank compartment towards the transom. Note the stepped cutout in the motor well bulkhead. This is necessary to install the fuel tank. It will then be closed off with another small panel.
Sept_2013_underfloor (1).JPG
This is a busy space. You can see the chase tubes as well as the stringers and the glue strips to faciliate attaching the floor. All of this was filled with marine expanding foam before closing. You will also notice that one of the port side chase tubes comes up through the floor. Early on I had decided to place the batteries and switchgear under the port side seat. This chase facilitates access for the battery and other power cables. It turns out, it was a tight fit from this compartment to the cabin, mainly because there is a two plane directional change as it enters the cabin. Plenty of wire pull luibricant was essential to getting the 1/0 battery cables pulled.

Between the middle stringers, immediately in front of the fuel tank I build a compartment. Originally, I intended to place a hatch in the floor for access to this compartment. In the end, I decided against it and simply closed it off. It was completely sealed, but included a drain to the bilge. I also filled it with foam before closing it off. Its still there if I ever choose to open an access port, but I think it will remain buried at least for now.
IMG_1841.JPG
Fitting final floor piece.
Last edited by APLJaK on Sat Sep 11, 2021 4:46 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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