OB 19 in Maryland

[Steven]

The decks are the one area I overbuilt. I used 3/8" for all the decks. I wanted extra strength specifically up there for the trolling motor. A lot of weight bouncing around. If planning on a trolling motor, add a backing block. If you have one picked out, get mounting template online to ensure bolt hole placement is good. The camber actually adds strength, and then the glass even more. It will be solid.


The other reason I used 3/8 is I made flush mount hatches out of 3/8 and matching deck thickness made for easier install.

[Steven]

Looking good. I totally forgot to run wire chases to the side decks, It was on the list and I completely missed it. I can still get wire there, but not as directly. Maybe too late if glued in. The rear support does no need to go to the deck IMO. The boxed decks make an incredibly strong beam that completely supports the sides. The support to the deck just adds a dirt trapping corner that gets in the way of my deck brush.

[Batedunie]

Thanks Steven...I think I will stick with 1/4 in. but will add some reinforcement underneath. I was thinking the same thing about the rear support. It is already installed and glassed but if it is not needed i would like to raise it off the deck so water can run to the stern.

[Batedunie]

For anybody following along here I posted a questions in the materials forum...Any help would be appreciated!

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=59895

[Cracker Larry]

It has to be a problem with the mix. Either wrong ratio or not a good stir. Scrape it off, clean it up good and do it again.

[Batedunie]

Thanks for the response Larry..I will try to apply direct heat for a awhile and see if I get a change.

Scrape it off, clean it up good

What is the best method for doing this? It is hard enough that scraping with many tools would be difficult but I have tried sanding and it gummed up the paper...maybe a grinder?

[Cracker Larry]

I'd start with vinegar and a putty knife. Then maybe acetone and a putty knife. Jasco makes a great stripper for paint and epoxy too, available at Lowes. Get as much off as possible chemically before sanding.

It happens to me once in a while too, nothing but a thing If it's just cleats, throw them away and start over.

[Batedunie]

Another update...
I have been working whenever I can...still plodding along!
I've got the anchorwell just about finished. I installed a center support and all the cleats I need for the top.


I still need to drill for the drain and the bow eye and cut out the hatch. I will be making my own hatch in the vertical face of frame. It will be a simple cutout with a frame around the opening made of 1x lumber to act as the stop for the hatch. It is not load bearing and does not need a gutter system so I think I should be able to do it.
Here's some pictures of the front bow compartments with their lids off.



I took some time on Saturday to sand the entire inside of the boat and put on mixed up fairing material and put some on the mortorwell frame and the sides.

Here are some pics of the boat cleaned out and sanded with the frame tops in place just to see my progress!

[Batedunie]

My goal is to finish the major construction of the boat by April 1st! This includes the cutting out of all the plywood pieces needed, gluing them in place, and fiber glassing everything!

It is asking a lot but possible.

If I post it here I am held accountable right?!

[Batedunie]

I posted a question over in the Power Boats section about the side deck frames, in reference to something Steven mentioned in an earlier post. Any help is appreciated!