Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Just wanted to let everybody know that the obsession finally hit me today. I just started my OD16 and was able to finish the stringers in about an hour.......so far so good.

On thursday I will measure, measure, measure and cut the bottom and sole.

Hopefully I can get a digital camera soon so I can begin documenting the progress.

This is just a heads up for all of you (EvilD, DrBones,etc.) to get ready for all of the questions I will be asking.


Happy Building...........

The key to getting this thing right the first time is make sure you understand what you are reading on the plans.Reread and measure everthing at least three times before cutting.Use a good 16' batton to trace the lines on the sole,bottom and chines.I might even suggest to get Jacques to send you the measurements that fall in between the 2' ones, I calculated the measurement at 1' increments and I had no problem fitting the side panels, went on the first time and stayed. I also might suggest that you cut your side panels about 4 to 6"'s longer than on the plan and trim the excess after putting it on the boat. Measure the excess at the rear of the panel. When you gret to the filleting us a tounge depressor for you fillets,the big ones are rounded perfect to make 1/2" radiaus curved fillets.Don't precoat to much of your work area with epoxy because eventually you be going back over it you'll waste a lot of the stuff. Everytime you mix the stuff think of someone taking $5 out of your pocket. Or better yet, if you are married imagine your wife with new credit card at the Gallaria Mall Also, just a suggestion, but there's a Joes Auto Marine supply store near you, get their catalog and look for bulk deals on brushes ect. They have everything you need to build this thing.Check their bulk prices! But by all means use this forum and look at different boats. A lot of diffent ways of doing tthings and lots of guys doing them,they'll help.Evild

Congrats Anyflyer! - I talked to EvilD. and he's been following my progress closely. I really like his building method. It is efficient and fast.

EVERYTHING he says there I would follow to the 'T' - He is absolutely right on all those points. If you don't follow them, you'll end up wasting a lot of epoxy. Believe me... I KNOW

So: get the 2' increment measurements for tracing the curves! - Use the tongue depressor for fillets (otherwise they become huge - look nice - but you'll end up wasting incredible amounts of epoxy on huge fillets) - ask EvilD to send you some pics of his fillets. Don't precoat! - Make sure you make your hull panels longer than on the plans!

Good luck..and take lots of pics!

Thanks ED & Dr.B.

I am planning on using a CPVC batton that is about 5/8". This is very straight yet bends very easily (hope this works).

EvilD, by any chance do you have the 1' increments??

Thanks,
Adrian

Drawing curves with batons…

I used a 8’ long, 1” wide slice from a 1/4” sheet of plywood I happened to have laying around. I looked for something better, but didn’t find anything that I liked.

As far as I’m concerned, the ABSOLUTE KEY(!!!) to using batons for tracing curved lines is to make sure that you’ve got the baton pinned on at least two points on either side of the section (between 2’ marks) where you’re drawing. I pounded small finishing nails into the plywood at the 2’ marks on my GF18 plans, and then used clamps to hold the baton on these nails while I drew my curve.

However, if you pin the baton on only one point, you’ll get a different curve than if you pin it on two points. I think that you mathematically get a better “curve-fit” to the points on the drawing with two pining points on either side of the section you’re drawing. Obviously, this doesn’t work on the first two sections that you have to draw, but there you just need to make sure you’ve pinned at least two points on the “interior” part of the curve.

Hope this isn’t too confusing.

Anyway, if you follow this two point pinning rule, I don’t think you need anything bigger than an 8’ baton, but longer is certainly better.

Jason

Update on Progress:

I received my epoxy in the mail wednesday so I began by gluing on the
stringers and today I coated the sole & stringers and glued the butt blocks.

Today I plan on installing the transversal braces (cross braces) and
this weekend I should have the chase tubing installed.

I should be able to post pictures today when I figure out which web site to place the pictures.

One question I do have is what is the angle of the miter cut on these braces. This worries me since i want to make sure that it does interfere with the chine when it is time to intall. I have looked on the plans but I cannot seem to find any measurements. Also should it go out to the edge of the sole??

Thanks,

anflyer wrote: One question I do have is what is the angle of the miter cut on these braces.

None.
There is no beveling in our designs. Quite the opposite, we like the gaps.
Please do not think in terms of wooden boats: we do not want tight assemblies. Epoxy needs at least a small gap. A tight assembly will push the resin out of the joint and it may fail.
Do not worry about interference: we take the assembled angle in account when designing the boat.

Here are some of the progress pics:

Sole with buttblocks and cross braces installed:

Wrong Picture, that is actually the stand I built to make working on the boat easier.

Here is the sole with stringers and braces:


tomorrow I will intall the chase tubes.

Quick question?? Is the the chase tube 3" internal diameter or external diameter. I am installing the 3" internal diameter tube. just wanted to make sure this isn't overkll.

thanks,
Adrian

One tip: Try to keep the panels on a flat surface. You for sure don't want a wavy bottom or sole!

Sorry, I am still learning how to post pictures.

Once again here is the Sole with cross braces:

Dr. Bones, I will place the boat on the stand once the bottom, sole and chines are glued in. In the picture I was just making sure that the bottom fit on the stand.

thanks,

Nice looking shop you have there! Looks like you have all the bells and whisles. Build on Dude!

EvilD, thanks. Woodworking is my other hobby. Stich & Glue is very different than woodworking in terms of how precise you have to be with the joints. I haveto keep telling myself to leave a small gap for the epoxy.

Anflyer

Very true, I think some one said it already but the secret is in the ooze!

Today I began the installation of the Chase Tubes.

Yellow Dot:
3" Chase Tube (Starboard Side) for the Throttle & Steering Cables. I tried using the 3" electrical sweeps but could not get them to fit within the chine. I hope the way they are installed it will not give me any problems. If somebody has them installed in this manner and you have not experienced any problems PLEASE let me know so I can sleep better at night.


Blue & Red Dots:
Possible Fuel Chase Tubes - the plan is to install the fuel tank under the casting deck or possibly have a triangle shaped tank to fit in the location of the anchor locker (still undecided)


Blue Line:
another 3" chase tube for any other cables. (I already have the the materials so might as well have another tube just in case)

Green Line:
1 1/2" livewell return ( the livewell will be under the console seat)

Red Line:
3/4" Livewell water feed

??Should the livewell feed and return be more towards the transome or towards the bulkhead??

Yellow Line:
Bow Light Chase Tube




Sorry for the long post, just wanted to post an update and I am always looking for constructive advice.

Anflyer

Where are the pics?

It was working last night. Lets try it again:

Anyflyer,

I had the same problem with the electrical sweeps being too close to the chines and thus didn't use that. Now, EvilD. did manage to use them I believe - so, I guess you can get it to work in some fashion.

My chase tubing looks pretty much the same as yours. You did a really nice and clean job though

Btw, I see you have your fuel lines coming out in the same drywell as your control harness chase tubing. Remember, that you might have to put electrical stuff through that same chase tube. If you do, it would share the area with the fuel lines. Question is whether you are confident enough that no gas fumes from fuel lines will collect in an area where you have electrical wiring. Don't know if that's really a good idea. Just keep that in mind when you do the final rigging.

My suggestion would be NOT to put the electrical and fuel lines in the same compartment.Bad things can happen.

EvilD & DrBones, thanks for the replies.

I am installing a second 3" rigging tube (already have the 3" material) on the PORT side which will carry the electrical from the console area. The Starboard side chase tube will be carrying the Throttle & Steering cables.

Where are you guys planning on installing the battery?

Do you think a 1 1/2" livewell discharg is enough?? and should the exit be more towards the transom or bulkhead??

Thanks,

anflyer,

I can't see the pics either. I noticed that your image open tags and image close tags are in the wrong place. If you go back and edit your first message placing the [img]tag%20at%20the%20beginning%20of%20the%20URL%20and%20the[/img] at the end of the url, it should work, unless you're over your host's access limit.

-Dave

The Images are working again.

Please everybodys coments..........

I can't see the pics.

I have a livwell installed in front of my console feed by 3/4 water feed that is mounted on the transom and a 1.5" outlet that's dumped thru the transom. It works fine.

Where the outlet line goes is pretty much up to you side would be easier to install but clutters the side view of the boat. No matter where you put it keep it close to the water line to reduce noise while fishing.

I finally resolved the picture issue, by using a new image server. I also made some changes with the layout according to some of the recomendations.

The fuel chase tube (red dot) is now moved over to the port side so I will have a chase tube for the fuel line on both side of the boat which will enable me to place this away from the electrical.


Gpratt I porbably will do the same and route the livewell outlet & feed through the transom. (do you have pics of your livewell setup??)

Were has everybody mounted the battery??

Tonight I will finish and send some of the updated pics.

Anflyer

Here is the completed pic of the Chase Tubes. I also gave it one more coat of epoxy (not shown in the image).

The next step is the foam and then install the bottom.

My goal is to have the chines installed by the end of next week.

Thanks,
anflyer

Your baitwell overflow should be 2 times as large as your, largest inflow IE: if your largest inflow is 3/4" then your outflow needs to be 1.5 if your largest inflow is 1" then 2" should be your MINIMUM outflow

It is never a bad idea to go a size larger then double never the same or less it COULD cause overflow and sinking

now as far as your foaming you should build your bottom panel CLOSE IT and then foam otherwise you will be wasting foam by having to cut the extra off

Timewalker, the inflow for the livewell is 3/4" and the outflow is 1-1/2".

I regards to the foam I have a piece of plywood covered in plastic that I will screw down to the stringers when I foam. I just dont want any holes in the sole.

thanks fo the comments.

Howdy, great looking chases you got there, I just got my plans the other day and can't wait to get started, waiting for plywood prices to go down a bit.. Question from a newby.. where are you going to install your batteries and gas tank, I've been looking for this for sometime??

Andrec4016,

The plan is to install the battery in the starboard side drybox and the fuel tank will be mounted under the casting deck.

Good luck on your project.

Anflyer

Thanks for the info.. sorry I didn't get back sooner I was on the road at work, and everything else in life.. I do have two questions
1) is the locations of the molds, these are not shown or discussed anywhere on the plans and I need to know these locations.
2) location of the console the plans show 3' from the back transome but if scaled it's 2'.. I'm assuming it should be 3'

by the by hows your progress going..

andrec,
The molds are not marked as molds but you'll find them on drawing D208/4. They are the measurements located between the labeled measurements for the Bottom Panel and Sole Panel.