Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Mon Apr 22, 2013 5:40 pm**

Ya'll know what this means...

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:17 am**

The Lloyd's Register Group is a maritime classification society and independent risk management organisation providing risk assessment and mitigation services and management systems certification.
Joubert Sapele plywood is brown-red in color with rotary cut faces. It is made with Class 3 exterior gluing and complies to BS 1088 and the Lloyd's Register Type Approved.

It's good plywood!!!!

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2013 9:44 am**

It means he got his plywood and will start building a nice boat!

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:01 am**

jacquesmm wrote:It means he got his plywood and will start building a nice boat!

Ha....that's funny!! I feel like an idiot now

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:25 am**

Yep. The jig is up...

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:48 am**

Boater45 wrote:
Ha....that's funny!! I feel like an idiot now

No, he is happy to have nice plywood, nothing wrong.

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:35 am**

Sure am. No worries. Ready to get started!

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2013 12:13 pm**

another FS18

TX is going to have a small armada of FS18's pretty soon

Posted: **Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:15 pm**

TX is going to have a small armada of FS18's pretty soon

That is one heck of a bad pun, but I like it! A "small" armada of FS18's... HA! Thanks for a line that will keep me smiling all day, I really needed it.

Cannonball - Good luck to you! You have a lot of support here to help you get this together!

Posted: **Sun Apr 28, 2013 9:16 am**

Hey Cannonball,
Looks like you're off to a good start.

You will find the members of the forum to be very helpful. Did you get the plywood from BBC or elsewhere?
John

Posted: **Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:25 pm**

Thanks John. I got the plywood from Houston hardwoods. It was a bit cheaper, but you do have to burn up half a day running to houston and back. Actually just wrapped up cutting out all the parts. Getting this thing on the jig with the hull stitched up is pretty much consuming my life right now. I've got to get some epoxy and glass ordered up tomorrow so I can get the bottom, sides and stringers going. Hoping to have that and the frames standing up on the jig next weekend. Got to get it done before my garage turns into a furnace. Anybody from Texas knows what I'm talking about.

Posted: **Mon Apr 29, 2013 2:35 pm**

All the pieces are cut up except the sole, rub rail strips and rod holder frames. Amazing how quick you can get all the pieces cut out when you stick to the plan! After attempting my own design in CAD and models, I have no desire to deviate from the plans at all. It's a proven design, and I like to think less and do more. I may try it without the sole for a while and see how it works. I figure I'll be standing on the rear platform 90% of the time anyway, dunno yet.

Posted: **Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:04 pm**

looking forward to following this build! why no sole??????

Posted: **Mon Apr 29, 2013 5:17 pm**

I'll probably end up with it. This is my first build, and I was a little iffy about using 1/4" for the sole. Just seems pretty thin so I left off buying that piece until I can test it out with a piece of scrap. Plus I plan on using a jet and seems like 4 gals of foam + sole + glass would be quite a bit of weight that is really not necessary, but would be nice. No harm in trying it out without it, and then installing later.

Posted: **Mon Apr 29, 2013 6:58 pm**

I used 3/8 Okume for the sole in the FS18 I built. It's solid as a rock and not very heavy. A solid sole makes walking around the boat a LOT more comfortable, no stringers and frames to trip over, plus it stiffens the boat a lot and keeps the deck dry. I would plan on it, myself.

Posted: **Tue Apr 30, 2013 2:58 pm**

I used 3/8" on my sole, filled all the space underneath with foam and it it rock solid. I probably could have saved some weight and used 1/4". And Larry is right about the sole stiffening up the hull, no twisting or flexing after it is glued and taped in. Foam and 1/4" ply would be my recommendation. Or maybe honeycomb panel and no foam. But the foam sure makes it quiet, important in shallow water fishing.

Posted: **Wed May 01, 2013 12:44 am**

All the builds i see they foam, then glue down the sole. Why not glue it down, pour in foam to bind everything together, then cap with a solid sheet of glass? I had good results doing this on a false-floor i put in a gheenoe. This would provide a little support to the 1/4" without any voids, glues it all together, and you avoid shaving the foam down and opening the cells. You of course need to pour conservatively, allow plenty of escape routs, and weight the heck out of the sole while it cures.

Saw your Craigslist add Cannonball, i'm up in Austin and will ask to come down some time and see the build.

Posted: **Wed May 01, 2013 7:13 am**

All of y'all have some good ideas, now I just need to decide which one to go with. I would prefer to make it work with the 1/4 since I would only have to buy one more less expensive piece. Even if I need to do a bit extra glassine to stiffen it up. I like the thought of putting the sole on and pouring the foam underneath, but if the floor did any kind of heave ho while the foam was curing I'd have a whole bunch of messy rework to contend with.

Your welcome to check it out anytime CObob. Youre Johnny on the spot on the Craigslist, just posted that yesterday. Hopefully something comes of it.

Posted: **Wed May 01, 2013 8:50 am**

I like the thought of putting the sole on and pouring the foam underneath, but if the floor did any kind of heave ho while the foam was curing I'd have a whole bunch of messy rework to contend with.

Very bad idea

Don't do it.

Posted: **Wed May 01, 2013 10:34 am**

Cracker Larry wrote:
I like the thought of putting the sole on and pouring the foam underneath, but if the floor diis d any kind of heave ho while the foam was curing I'd have a whole bunch of messy rework to contend with.
Very bad idea Don't do it.

+1!!!

This foam is powerfull stuff! It will buckle and deform your floor at the least and break the floor or deform the hull at worst. If you foam it, put in the 1/4" sole and then cover that with 6 or 10 oz glass and it should be solid solid.

Posted: **Wed May 01, 2013 10:30 pm**

Listen to these guys, there are some serious risks. I'll post some
Pics up on another there's some time. I want to see some progress this weekend!

Posted: **Sat May 04, 2013 8:30 pm**

Ask and you shall recieve...

Posted: **Sat May 04, 2013 8:33 pm**

Also made a bit of progress. Interested to know what others used for their battens. The specified 1x1's or 1x2's? Didn't even catch that note until after I already started on them with 1x2's, No big deal to rip them down though.

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2013 2:00 am**

Cracker Larry wrote:
I like the thought of putting the sole on and pouring the foam underneath, but if the floor did any kind of heave ho while the foam was curing I'd have a whole bunch of messy rework to contend with.
Very bad idea Don't do it.

Hi, good to see another fresh build. I'm a little further than you, but have stopped. I'm waiting for my shop vac to arrive since the glass dust is killing me, although I wear a decent mask and goggles.
Some people just learn by making the mistakes themselves - yip, that's me. I built the CC14 canoe and built a little box as a seat. I filled this box with foam and covered the lid before the foam was fully expanded(OK, its a very small area). I taped the seat lid down with 200g woven. I started finishing and painting the boat. By day 2 I noticed that the foam had broken open the epoxy glue and pulled open the seam.

I'll foam my CS23 under the sole, but I'll give it enough time to expand and shape it back from there.
Good luck with the build, buddy. I like the jet drive. I've never seen one of those, very cool.

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2013 8:38 am**

I'll second that on the cool jet drive. I've never seen one up close or been on one. More intimidating is how neat your shop area is

Dunno how you manage that. I'm in New Braunfels often and hope to get a peek at your build one day. Seems like lot of folks like that FS18.

Over here in Blanco Dougster

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2013 10:06 am**

Interested to know what others used for their battens.

I used 1X1s, actually 3/4X3/4. This boat requires a lot of cleats and the weight difference between 1X2 and 1X1 would be significant.

Looking good

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2013 10:13 am**

Same as Cracker Larry. Ripped 1x1 (3/4 x 3/4) from clear 1x6's. It takes a bunch, I'm going to need to make some more soon.

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2013 11:16 am**

Thanks for confirming that one guys. I've got to remember, just stick to the plan!

Your welcome to check it out Doug. I come from a long line of contractors, and it doesnt matter if it's at work or home a clean work area always makes you work safer, smarter, and faster.

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2013 11:50 am**

a clean work area always makes you work safer, smarter, and faster.

Smart man

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2013 4:53 pm**

Cannonball wrote:Ask and you shall recieve...

that didn't take long. Is that built on a 25hp frame or the 40-60?

I spent 8 months searching for a gheenoe anywhere in Texas and finally posted a WTB add in frustration; bought one locally by the end of the day.

Here are some pics on the foamed floor, i think they are around page 3 http://www.customgheenoe.com/forum/view ... 3&start=30

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2013 6:07 pm**

It's the 20 jet from the factory. I actually found the add after I posted my wtb add, it made for good juju anyway.

Posted: **Sun May 05, 2013 10:37 pm**

Awesome find, I have a basic repair manual that should cover it if you ever decide to work on it

Posted: **Mon May 06, 2013 12:50 pm**

vgant wrote:Same as Cracker Larry. Ripped 1x1 (3/4 x 3/4) from clear 1x6's. It takes a bunch, I'm going to need to make some more soon.

+1
good clear 1×6's or 1×4's. Get the good stuff, the cheap stuff will warp and break and has lots of knots. No fun to deal with.

Posted: **Sun May 12, 2013 6:58 pm**

Boat Builder Supply is where it's at. Ordered my fs18 glass kit on Tuesday and it showed up Friday. Thought I was going to miss a weekend of production without the epoxy, but it got here just in time...

Framing is 90% complete...

This is a true testament to the design. I did no pre-planning, just followed the plan, cut everything up and stood it up on the center line. After getting pretty efficient with hullform trying to attempt my own design and finally giving up over frustration, I really appreciate this and it has taken loads of the pressure off. I'm having a blast. Perfect...

Up next bottom and sides. Stay tuned...

Posted: **Mon May 13, 2013 10:32 am**

If you can cut and install a bow mold now. I wish I had done one on mine. It will eliminate a droopy bow and make forming thekeel at the bow much easier. Your build looks great so far!

Posted: **Mon May 13, 2013 9:32 pm**

Thanks mike. It's coming along real nice, if the epoxy hadn't shown up for me to take advantage of a free weekend it would have set me back at least two weeks. Got an engagement party on the island in your neck of the woods this weekend. Dont think ill be able to come by this time though, its going to be in and out. How would you come up with the dimensions for a bow mold? I was thinking just block up the bow, fit it with a stitch and move on, but I agree if it comes in the cnc kit you would think it important for us to include as well.

Posted: **Mon May 13, 2013 9:48 pm**

My best guess for making a bow mold would just be trial and error. Not sure how to do it any other way. Maybe you could sweet talk Jacques into giving you some measurements to get you started? Or even better, a drawing!

If you do get a chance to stop by, please do. Just shoot me an email and I can get you my contact info.

Posted: **Thu May 16, 2013 8:16 am**

Bottom panels sanded and glassed...

Front quartering view...

I think I'm going to redo my transom. I cut it to plan the week before I bought the motor and I need an additional inch on it to get the jet set right. It's either spend 90 bucks now on a sheet of ply and it be light and dead on balls, or spend 90 bucks messing around with aluminum plates trying to half way shim it later. I don't like to do things half way, so off to the lumberyard. Ohh well, needed to make another trip anyway for the sole and rub rail strips.

Posted: **Thu May 16, 2013 9:27 am**

Better to do right in the beginning than try to rig it later and hope it works out, good job! Where are you getting your plywood?

Posted: **Thu May 16, 2013 1:10 pm**

I've been running to Houston to get the ply from Houston Hardwoods. It's killer, burning upa half a day when I could be building to do it, but it's cheaper that having it shipped.

Posted: **Thu May 16, 2013 4:50 pm**

Might be cheaper to go to Austin:
http://www.finelumber.com/

Randy

Posted: **Thu May 16, 2013 9:38 pm**

Yep. I called them before I got my first load of wood and they didn't have any 1088. Their catalog also doesnt show any 3/8 1088 okoume. I'm convinced that the good stuff is the way to go especially after working with it.

Posted: **Mon May 20, 2013 8:26 am**

Despite a hangaround from Port A, managed to get a little accomplished on Sunday. Bottom panels cleaned and stiched...

Starting to look like something...

Will join the side panels this week, and hoping to have some glass done by Memorial Day. Got a 3 day boat building extravaganza going at my house this weekend...

Posted: **Mon May 20, 2013 8:46 am**

This is a fun part of the build. It looks clean and nice to me. I got two sheets of 1/4" okoume from Fine Lumber last year, which sure was handy. I've made that Houston run for ply and it is a pita. Good luck this coming weekend, it's a good one for staying home and building instead of fighting the crowds

Buildin' in Blanco Dougster

Posted: **Mon May 20, 2013 5:07 pm**

Thanks Doug. I'm telling ya it is a pita. I've got my borther headed there this week for me. He's on a college break so no big deal for him. All it takes is offering up some Granzins dried sausage and a bottle of brown liquor and he's ready to roll.

Checked out your build, and it's looking great. That looks like a sweet trolling rig.

Posted: **Thu May 23, 2013 8:23 am**

Got a question. Where should the transom sit. I've seen people do it different ways. My first thought was to mount it where the bottom edge was flush with the stringer height. Is this correct? I'm about to redo the transom before stiching and gluing to accomadate the jet height, but want to also ensure how these planes should meet up.

Posted: **Thu May 23, 2013 8:38 am**

You have the transom in the right position. Your build is looking great, you should get a lot done this weekend.

Posted: **Fri May 24, 2013 8:01 am**

I did mine like you have in the last picture and filled in the gap. my next one, I'll cut the bottom of the transom at an angle.

Posted: **Tue May 28, 2013 10:05 am**

It's officially a boat...

The bow took a touch of planing to get the panels to meet up..

Transom redux...

Coming together...

My one problem area stiching up the panels. Got a 1/2" gap that I ended up just filling. I was focused on closing this gap up so much that I created a little 1/8" dip at the location of the stich from the stringer out to the chine. Hopefully nothing a liitle fairing won't cure...

Rainy day tabbing session...

Cleaning it up Cracker Larry style...

She sees daylight...

One of my favorite pics so far...

Nice little Memorial Day Weekend power session. Was hoping to have the glass tape done, but gave it up to bbq after that sanding yesterday.

Posted: **Tue May 28, 2013 8:30 pm**

Try to do your taping and wide cloth all in one session, wet on wet. It will save you a lot of work and make for a stronger boat. You can get it all done in about 6 hours if you can coax a friend into helping you. Looks good! Keep it up!

Posted: **Wed May 29, 2013 6:38 am**

Good advice. I got a little carried away with epoxy on this first tabbing session, and definetly had to deal with the extra work from it, still need another pass with the RO before i,m satisfied. Learned my lesson there, on haste making waste. I'll probably use west systems six 10 on a lot of the interior fillets to save time and make for easy clean up. Just had some areas on the outside that needed to get filled. I anticipated it being hot for glassing and have slow hardener for it. Going to lay everything out, section it off and pre-measure. Can't wait to get it glassed!

Posted: **Sat Jun 01, 2013 11:37 am**

Just had to say thanks to uncle cracker and pro wader for their thread about pushing the hook out of the bottom along frames d and e. I was stumped but now... got it dead nuts right now and am about to start glassing. Love this forum...

Posted: **Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:05 am**

So, was having a hell of a time getting the keel to line up straight without any weight on top of C & B. After stumbling around the forum and seeing Cracker Larry's and Pro Wader's thread on the same issue, the solution... shim the bottom. Duh, can't believe I didn't think about that, but it worked out perfect...

After getting everything aligned, had a friend of mine show up and we got all the tape laid out. After reviewing Cracker Larry's, Bayport Bob's, FruitFly's, & Double Up's builds we ended up with 3 layers of tape on the bottom to make up for the overlap of the 50" cloth. Followed Crackers lead on 1 oz per foot on the tape and pre mixed 9 12 oz batches and she went like butter. Took about 3 hours.

Had another friend show up just in time for the bottom, and we were a well oiled machine by this point. put him to mixing and we got started on the cloth...

Next Day...

Whew! Feels good to hit that milestone. Overall, I'm really happy with how it turned out. I used just a smidge over 1.5 gal of epoxy and could have planned a little better to use a bit less, but for a first time glassing it has a pretty even coat. The heat on the bow from the sun made that part pretty trickywith the cloth layer, and I have some pretty sizeable air pockets. They are luckily contained to the area that already has 5 other layers of glass underneath it. Any ideas on how best to deal with those? All in all a very productive weekend. Best piece of advice after doing this is, don't do it by yourself. Buy beer for everyone and cook fajitas.

Posted: **Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:53 am**

Well done

Posted: **Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:01 am**

Good job!

For the air bubbles you can use a syringe to inject epoxy to fill them. West Marine sells some that have a long pointy end on them. They work great for getting epoxy in tight spots like that.

Posted: **Mon Jun 03, 2013 12:00 pm**

West Marine sells some that have a long pointy end on them.

I bet they are pricey at West . I needed some a while back and went to a local pharmacy and asked them if they had some large syringes. They asked if I had a prescription and I said no, I was using them for glue. They said they wouldn't/couldn't sell syringes without a prescription

So I walked right next door to the farm supply store, where they had cases of them in every shape and size on the shelf for about $.30 each.

Posted: **Mon Jun 03, 2013 1:25 pm**

That settles it. I'll be heading by Tractor Supply on the way home. Thanks!

So, got another question. Everyone keeps looking at me like I'm crazy for not having glass on the sides at work or who I show pictures to, but the plans don't call for it. My buddy Paul aka Doubleup didn't glass his sides and it seems fine not to. What are the opinions out there. I'm pretty much set on leaving it off and just coat it with epoxy and then a coat of fairing compound and call it good especiallys since that area is protected decent enough from anything by the rub rail, but the same quandry is involved on the decks. Remember, I'm planning on a jet exclusively so weight is a factor, but how would the decks hold up with the same, epoxy coat and then coat with fairing compound? Anybody had any experience with decks like this being damage from use other than normal wear and tear? I'm thinking I'd rather leave that off and go with a more durable non skid like kiwi grip to add the extra layer of protection. Thoughts?

Posted: **Mon Jun 03, 2013 1:34 pm**

Another question for you FS18 builders. Everyone is asking me when the splash date is. I'm shooting to be painted and on the water by labor day. I'll still have accessries and little bits to do I'm sure. Is that doable? Seems like everyone that is pretty diligent is at about 6 months build time. With the bottom glass on, what percent complete would you say this is?

Posted: **Mon Jun 03, 2013 1:41 pm**

My opinion is to glass everything 100% of the time. Quality ply may not check, or it may not check for a long time, but it's worth the extra price for the peace of mind that you won't walk up to your boat at some point and see this:

This boat was built with "exterior grade" ply and not good marine ply, but even so I'll continue to glass everything 100% from here on out.

Posted: **Mon Jun 03, 2013 6:07 pm**

Some guys have had the marine ply check I believe, so I went with 6 oz ply all around. It was dead easy to work with and gave me a little peace of mind. I think 4 oz would work too. As to how far along you are, it's hard to say. Maybe half way? If you're using tiller steering, that'll save time. Ditto with external fuel tanks. Fitting the internal plastic thing was a pita. Hatches and hardware take an inordinate time with the overdrill/fill/redrill thing. What paint are you gonna use? Are you planning on building a poling platform over the motor? Livewell? It's all in the fit out and, in my case, the pondering time. Well, and the "Dougstering" time (doing it wrong first). I'm hoping to get a chance to drop by one day this month to see her, since I drive to New Braunfels pretty much every week.

Livin' on Blanco time Dougster

Posted: **Mon Jun 03, 2013 8:13 pm**

I glassed the sides of mine, inside and out with 6oz woven cloth. I used Okoume for the hull, I know it is good stuff but I want all the protection I can get. For me, this boat is a considerable investment of both money, time and sweat. I saw George take a chainsaw to his drift boat after it started checking, what a shame that was. A few dollars and few pounds is worth the peace of mind. All in all, adding the 6oz cloth added less than 10 pounds.

Posted: **Tue Jun 04, 2013 1:06 pm**

Me too, I'm 100% glassed. Heavier, yes but no worries ever.

Posted: **Tue Jun 04, 2013 4:59 pm**

Ya'll are making it hard on me. I was hoping somebody would say go with it, I'm on a timeline here. I sure would like the designers to weigh in...

I can understand the arguement on the hull but I'm still undecided, how about decks, less important to glass? Would kiwi grip on them give it enough durability with just epoxy coatings for plenty of longevity?

I guess my problem is, I keep going back and forth on decisions to make it fancy or keep it simple. Everytime at the end of the day no matter what my buddies or anybody says I keep coming back to simple... practicle... low maintenance... easy. Fuel tanks... I'm thinking portable. Hatches... I'm thinking openings with elastic cargo nets fastened below the decks. Electrical... we don't need no stickin electrical. I mean, it is in essense a big canoe, why overdo it?

Posted: **Tue Jun 04, 2013 5:48 pm**

With all the experience weighing in on the side of "just glass it", I hesitate to open my mouth . . . but I can't help it.

One of the concepts of these designs is light weight, and the designer has stated that (assuming you use marine ply) glass covering is optional in many areas of the boat. If it is really really strongly recommended, why doesn't he just say so?

Posted: **Tue Jun 04, 2013 7:25 pm**

I built the OD16 and built it to the lamination suggested by Jacques, no more no less, 6" up the side's, I used a good marine plywood, okoume, and covered everything in at lest 2 coats (more in most area's) of neat West System epoxy, it's been 6 years now and shows no sign of wear, checking or anything negative, I also used a good topside marine epoxy paint, Interlux brightside or topside, something like that.
I would agree that glassing everything would probably be better and I might regret not glassing everything in a few years, who know's, but so far so good!

Good luck on your build, looking good so far!

Joe H

Posted: **Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:31 pm**

I'd glass it all. Joe gives great advice, he is a fine builder and a fine fellow too. His wife ain't bad either

But he lives in friggin Michigan where the ice ain't even out but a few months of the year and the the sun don't shine much longer than that. South Texas is a whole nother situation

the designer has stated that (assuming you use marine ply) glass covering is optional in many areas of the boat. If it is really really strongly recommended, why doesn't he just say so?

He says what is necessary from a structural point of view, enough to hold the boat together. But the cosmetics are up to you. I built a GF16 exactly to plans and used BS1088 plywood, well coated with epoxy, well primed and painted. In 2 years of south Georgia sun the wood was checking. Now I glass everything. The boat will be strong enough without it, but it won't look as good over time, unless it only sees sunshine 3 months out of the year. In Texas, I'd glass it all.

Posted: **Tue Jun 04, 2013 10:28 pm**

Ha, yeah Larry has a point, my boat is covered 7 months out of the year and summers are kinda mild here, Texas sun and salt water may be a little tougher on her.
Joe H

Posted: **Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:01 pm**

Ha, yeah Larry has a point, my boat is covered 7 months out of the year and summers are kinda mild here, Texas sun and salt water may be a little tougher on her.

Ya think

Posted: **Wed Jun 05, 2013 6:37 am**

Well, that's 5 out of 6 experienced commentators that are for. Can't argue that. I need to start working up another BOM.

Are y'all talking glassing every other surface, including both sides of frames and underneath sides of decks, or just exposed areas?

I'll probably go with 6 oz on the sides, any issue with that weight glass on the decks? Should I go a bit heavier there?

Thanks for all the replies, I definetly don't want to have any checking after just a couple years.

Posted: **Wed Jun 05, 2013 8:33 am**

Cracker Larry wrote:
the designer has stated that (assuming you use marine ply) glass covering is optional in many areas of the boat. If it is really really strongly recommended, why doesn't he just say so?
I built a GF16 exactly to plans and used BS1088 plywood, well coated with epoxy, well primed and painted. In 2 years of south Georgia sun the wood was checking.

Okay, that's all I needed to hear. I'll cover it all with glass- lesson learned. Thanks, Larry, for sharing your experience.

Posted: **Wed Jun 05, 2013 8:37 am**

Are y'all talking glassing every other surface, including both sides of frames and underneath sides of decks, or just exposed areas?

Exposed surfaces only, not the underside of decks.

Posted: **Wed Jun 05, 2013 8:57 am**

FWIW - I'm with the majority here. I've also just decited to completely glass even a GV10. If the weight's worth it on a 10' boat, it's worth it on your FS18. I'm using 6oz cloth, it really doesn't soak up much epoxy at all. Varnish and traditional wooden boat construction hold up will in the far north also, but not in S. FL (or TX for that matter).

Posted: **Wed Jun 05, 2013 10:59 am**

On my FS18 I plan to cover all exposed surfaces with 6oz glass, Sole, decks, and exposed bulkheads. I also plan to glass the inside of storage compartments and in the battery boxes, any surface that is subject to wear. The 6oz cloth is really easy to work with, you'll like it. It will take 13 yards to glass the hull sides and another 8 or so to glass the decks and bulk heads. Keep on building!

Posted: **Wed Jun 05, 2013 1:55 pm**

That's about what I had figured up as well. Now to see if I can get it here by Friday.

Posted: **Wed Jun 05, 2013 7:28 pm**

I also glass all storage compartments, bait tanks, anchor lockers and any interior area that gets use and wear. The hidden forever parts I don't glass over, unless it needs it structurally.

Posted: **Thu Jun 06, 2013 8:40 am**

Gotcha, CL your build and posts have been a big help so far. Thanks!

Posted: **Mon Jun 10, 2013 12:23 am**

Cannonball - I'm over in Nederland, Tx, and just beginning my build. Glad I've reviewed your posts, it has helped, as has the others on answering some questions I have. Looking forward to your updates.

Posted: **Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:57 am**

Got quite a bit of odds and ends done this weekend in preparation for glassing the sides...

Cut the rub rail strips. This should be an add for the Kreg rip cut. Measure once and cut 15 times...

Lowered the shear in the back half of the boat to flush with the baseline height of the deck. I'm keeping the extra bow shear for running across some deep waters that can get a nasty tide swell in order to get to the skinnies. Will come back and cut the transom down when I flip it.

Sanded and faired the remininse of the air bubbles that I injected during the week.

Well, that initial 1/8" where I sucked the panels to tight with stiches has turned into quite the expanse. I'm going to build up a bit with fairing compound before glassing the sides. I'm considering daming this up like everybody does to sharpen the corners, but then round them off before glassing the sides to help correct it. One side is pretty minimal, but even after this first coat I've got still a 1/4" to deal with on the other. Any ideas? Yet another lesson learned, I did a good job glassing 80% of the boat, but the devil is in that 20% where experience helps you deal with the corners and overlaps.

Posted: **Mon Jun 17, 2013 9:19 am**

Looks like you are doing a good job! What weight glass are you using on the sides?

Posted: **Mon Jun 17, 2013 10:20 am**

Any ideas?

I do what you have described, but do it with wood flour and glass over it before its hard. So you basically giving it the right radius with woodflour putty, then while its still green, you go wet on wet and do you glassing.

Posted: **Tue Jun 18, 2013 2:09 pm**

Thanks Shine, i had built it up this last weekend before I saw your post. Good thing I used majority wood flour, it feels pretty solid. Just need that glass for the sides for a final pass and I'll be back up and running.

On another note. I've been considering trailer options. I'm leaning towards getting a PWC trailer for the larger 3 seater 4 strokes and extending that so I can keep the set up from swallowing the boat. Most trailers, even for 15-16 jons seem way too wide. The one I've got pictured below I'm going to check out this weekend and maybe make a deal on. It is 45-46" between the fenders, and I figured I could put some roller guides just in front of them to protect the plastic wheel wells. It is a practically new trailer and I would only have to swap out the toungue for a longer one. Price is right, and they are plentiful on craigslist. What do you guys think?

Here is the one I'm looking at GVWR 1250#:

Seems like what the gheenoe guys use, and like it would work well with the FS18...

Posted: **Tue Jun 18, 2013 2:19 pm**

I think you could make it work with some modifications.

Posted: **Tue Jun 18, 2013 3:04 pm**

that looks pretty good, there is room to move the axle back and also move the from cross beams up a little = longer bunks

Posted: **Mon Jun 24, 2013 8:36 am**

Alright. We are back at it. Got the sides glassed. Ended up with 6 oz woven fabric on them. That stuff is super easy to use. makes me want to build a surfboard after this. The 2 week lag on getting the cloth gave me some time to correct troubled areas and build up the gaps I had in the back. I feel a lot better now that it is 100% glassed, and having the extra layer of glass over some bubbles that I had to sand out and fill with compound gave it a much better starting point for fairing.

Last orbital pass before the fairing boards come out...

All the major players finally in one place, now I just need to hurry up and get done! I ended up getting the jet ski trailer, it has a 1250# capacity. I'll need to add 8' of tongue to it, and will probably add a swing over bracket and a keel roller. Picked this up for $400 and it is practically brand new, the tires still have the knobby's on them. It has torsion axels, and once I add the swing over tongue it will be tricked out like the trailers the east cape skiff guys use.

Then we couldn't resist having a bit of fun! Happy to report, the motor started on the first pull, and ran smoother and quieter than I anticipated being a 2 stroke. I hadn't run the fuel out since starting it when I bought it, so gave us a good reason to drink beer and rev up the jet motor in the drive.

Posted: **Mon Jun 24, 2013 8:09 pm**

That is a cool picture! Looks like it felt good too. It has been Africa hot! Is that a 25 HP jet?

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2013 7:35 am**

Yep. It is a 25 powerhead, but is rated for more like 18 at the pump. We were having a good time. And, I'm afraid the Africa heat is just now rolling in. Thank goodness I can roll the strong back off into the grass and get in some shade.

Got a question, what's the best approach for the rub rails? I'm thinking trim the front during the dry fit then work from the bow back? Also, using the dowels, do you drill for each layer, or dry fit all three and then drill?

That and fairing are on the program for this week.

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:06 am**

When I did my rub rails I dry fitted all three first " I ended up using two layers of 3/8"
Got everything where I liked it, then drilled for dowels , removed the rails and glued
dowels in . Put all the rails on the next day in one shot . worked well.

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:12 am**

On the rubrail- the way I did it. Work bow to stern one layer at a time. I used screws to hold everything, dowels might work too. I wish I would have had more clamps. It would have made things easier. If you use screws you have to predrill for every screw and then overdrill those holes to fill them. Kind of a pain but it works.

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:58 am**

I worked stern to bow and used dowels for each layer. Ended up with three layers of 1/4". It took lots of clamps and some cussing, cuz the Nina design's got a lot of lift toward the stern and the ply needed some persuasion. The dowels were the persuaders. It's for sure a good thing you can roll her into the shade to work

Says hi from Blanco Dougster

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2013 4:23 pm**

Thanks for the suggestions. I like the way Topwater did it and after reviewing his thread, think I'll do the same. Mike, I'm also in the situation where I don't have a ton of clamps, and because I have the deck on the strong back it makes using my makeshift pvc clamps difficult to use. With the dowels and clamps I've got I can get a good dry fit and then suck everything together with some sheetrock screws to make up the difference. We'll see how it goes on the dry fit round.

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2013 6:14 pm**

Cannonball, see this page and scroll down to the rub rail install.. http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... &start=130
Screws are the way to go

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:38 pm**

That's a great tutorial. Thanks for the tip CL!

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2013 9:37 pm**

50 screws are a lot cheaper than 50 clamps, and good screws are re-usable

Posted: **Tue Jun 25, 2013 10:09 pm**

Yep! Screws are fast and easy!

Posted: **Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:50 am**

Not as much progress as I was hoping this weekend. Got the first layer of rub rail on though and am going to get the remaining 2 layers done before the 4th. I'm planning on flipping it on the 4th and getting the inside framed out before final fairing the outside. Not to mention it will only be 95 degrees instead of a 105 like it has been so good time to get the inside glass done. I've still got a little bit of unevenness along the keel, and I'm hoping if I flip it and set the keel against a board it will help to flatten out the couple remaining dips I have in it. I didn't catch the hook when I went to glue the outside panels together, but was still easy enough to push them out with some shims before glassing. When I pull the shims, the hook shows back up even though it was glassed flat. I think there are a couple forces working against each other now, and hope I want to true that up before I burn a bunch of time fairing. Plus it's fun to be building again!

Thanks for the tip on using screws. That's the way to go. Add some west systems six 10 to the mix it goes like butter.

Posted: **Mon Jul 01, 2013 2:58 pm**

I did the sam ething on mine. I put the first coat of fairing on, sanded that then flipped it. It broke up the build some so I didn't get totally burnt out with the fairing. I completed all the inside framing then flipped her again to finish fairing. After fairing I primed, and applied the graphite, flipped again. Now I am working on completing the inside now. I am not sure if I will flip again to paint. I don't really need to but it would make it easier to paint.

Your boats coming along great. Keep on Building!

Posted: **Mon Jul 01, 2013 9:46 pm**

I'm in the same boat

. I'm wanting to continue with progress on the build before I get bogged down with finishing. I'm going to try to get my ducks in a row so after I finish the interior framing and flip, I can finish the outside up to the rails and then get it on the trailer at that point.

Posted: **Mon Jul 01, 2013 11:31 pm**

Have you thought about paint color yet? If you are going with Sterling, order it way before you need it. Some kind of backlog at Sterling. I ordered my paint 3 weeks ago and it still hasn't been shipped to Shine so he can ship it to me. Kinds sucks... I know I am going to be extra careful with that stuff when I gets here!

Posted: **Tue Jul 02, 2013 10:03 am**

I keep going back and forth on paint. I've got a friend who has a connection to dealer priced awlgrip so I'm going to go that route, especially with the Sterling backorder issue. Color selection, now that's a different story. I've been thinking some sort of guide green color all over and then white kiwi grip decks with a stainless rub rail, but I keep going back and forth. One day its green next day its blue, every now and then I consider the color hells bay has on the glades skiff with tan and cream. I'm not a colors guy, I just don't care as long as it looks good, so suggestions are welcome.

Posted: **Tue Jul 02, 2013 12:40 pm**

I like the guide green color but, my opinion, it is way over done. Every third poling skiff out there is Guide Green. The other 2/3's are Fighting lady yellow and Seafoam. I went with Sky Blue and Cloud white. The cloud white is a little lighter than the cream and not so pink. I didn't want a bright white deck. They look sharp but the glare is blinding!

Posted: **Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:14 am**

Little more of the same this week. Didn't get the boat flipped over the 4th. Pulled a muscle in my back and that put a damper on things for a while, but really was a set back on the build. Did get the rails complete and a layer of fairing compound on the bottom. Trued up the edge of the chines and transom in the back of the boat, so now I'm really ready to flip it. Rails make it look a whole lot more done.

Posted: **Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:43 am**

She is coming along nice! Good clean work. Once she is flipped, check and recheck the bottom to make sure it stays flat before you glass the inside. Once it is glassed inside and out any hook or rocker is locked in and a real pain to correct. And you are right about the rubrail making it look more finished, it also stiffens up the sides alot!

Posted: **Wed Jul 10, 2013 1:07 pm**

Anybody have a clue what colors these would be off the awlgrip chart? This is the latest "canoe style skiff" from the East Cape Skiff guys and he said light gray outside with blue on top? Not sure exactly which grays or which blues though. I'd like to duplicate this on mine. Looks good, especially with the black/red engine.

Posted: **Wed Jul 10, 2013 2:04 pm**

They probably are using gelcoat, so you wont find an exact match on a paint color chart. The KG is a bit darker, so you would want to mix grey/white together to get a lighter shade. Sterling has a "blue tone white" that looks the same

Posted: **Wed Jul 10, 2013 3:37 pm**

Thanks Shine. I was looking at the kingston gray. I haven't seen anybody go with the gray on the FS18, so I'm kicking the idea around. I got on the hells bay site that has a color scheme seletor...

http://hellsbayboatworks.com/boat-pages ... kiff-specs

I know this thing doesn't exactly give the best rendering, but I'm leaning towards a Kingston Gray hull with a Blue Tone White hull and deck all AwlGrip colors. I think I mentioned it before, but I've got a hook up on some dealer priced awlgrip so naturally will be using those colors. Still might change my mind again tomorrow though. I have no idea on colors.

For you FS18 builders. What quantities of paint primer should I get? In say these categories:

-Interior/Exterior High Build Primer
-Hull Sides (Epoxy/Graphite finish on bottom)
-Deck
-Non Skid

Posted: **Wed Jul 10, 2013 3:52 pm**

I was looking at the kingston gray. I haven't seen anybody go with the gray on the FS18,

Hooter painted his with Sterling Jay Gray, it looked great!

A gallon of S3 primer will do the entire boat about 3 coats.

Posted: **Wed Jul 10, 2013 4:01 pm**

Sure did didn't he. I remember seeing Hooter's, that color looks real good, I think I'd like a little lighter shade along those same lines.

Posted: **Thu Jul 11, 2013 10:04 am**

I like that jay grey too. I went with the sterling sky blue. Its a couple shapes lighter than jay gray.

Posted: **Mon Jul 15, 2013 11:46 am**

I'm thinking now whisper gray hull/non skid and ice blue interior/trim. What do ya'll think? Looks pretty darn good to me. I'd rather use standard colors than venturing off into trying to mix my own. I can only see that ending up in disaster. Has anybody ever used walnut shells for non skid? I saw a guy that built a jet skiff on the Texas coast not to long ago use them and they were really light cheap and easy to apply or so it seemed?

Going to flip it this weekend, I think. Didn't get any work done on it last weekend, but I did catch a few reds wading mud island. Nice little break from working on the boat, but got me totally pumped to get it finished.

Posted: **Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:27 am**

You should have stopped by and had a beer while you were in the area!

I don't know anything about walnut shell non skid but I tried the non-skid additive sold here and had a tough time getting consistant coverage. I applied it on a piece of scrap ply about 2'×3'. I am pretty positive I couldn't get even coverage on the entire sole or front deck. Decided to go with KiwiGrip.

Posted: **Tue Jul 16, 2013 2:30 pm**

I know it MIke, just got to busy drinking beer and catching fish to get in boat building mode. Ready to see some more pictures of that fine vessel.

Just did a forum search and saw the kiwigrip gray is nice and light. That would me much easier than trying to do much anything else. I think that will be close enough even if I do a whisper gray on the outside and the ice blue slick lines will contrast well. I think I'm about set. Now just got to see if my cheap awlgrip deal will go through or if I'll be going with Sterling.

Posted: **Tue Jul 16, 2013 2:54 pm**

Anybody have an idea of which Sterling gray would be the closest match to the kiwigrip gray?

Posted: **Tue Jul 16, 2013 4:28 pm**

Probably the Whisper Gray would be the closest.

Posted: **Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:45 am**

Back in production mode here. So much so that I'm on the wagon so I can stay focused and get this thing built out. I"m shooting to have the interior built out by labor day.

First solid round of fairing done on the bottom...

Flipped! That was fun...

Dropped the strong back, and added some framing to help straighten out the bottom. This is one thing I did right on this build. Built the strong back 2' tall, but made it where it would be easy to drop when I flipped. It was nice to be able to climb up underneath at first, but right now is perfect working height for the interior...

Couldn't help but get an idea of what the sheer was going to look like with the decks in. Lovin it. Straight sheer in the back half, and the front according to plan...

Got all the evil little drips and stuff cleaned up on the inside. Also rough sanded the tops of the rub rails, still more to go, but going to hold off until the decks are on to make that transition nice and even.

Here's a shot of my fix for the slight hooks I had between E & D and D & C. Drilled some pilot holes and cut the head off some picture hanging nails and drove them into the crack. Still need to punch them down a bit further, but I'm hoping to be able to use these to hold the hook down while I glass, and place the stringers and frames. Then, when I'm ready to flip again in theory it should pop off. We'll see...

Posted: **Mon Jul 22, 2013 9:44 am**

Looks great! Congrats on the flip! Everything is looking good. Not quite sure how the nail thing is gonna work but sounds like you got a plan. If you have all your material on hand and put in a couple hours a day you should be farther than you think by labor day!

Posted: **Tue Jul 23, 2013 8:48 am**

Can someone explain the tinted epoxy thing to me for under decks and in hatches? How much tint do you mix in the epoxy? What surface prep is necessary? Do you primer, fair, or just paint it right over the glass? I'm thinking I'm going build the interior out completely including the decks before finishing the outside and would like to use the gray tint to finish the hatch areas. Just trying to get prepared for the next few weeks.

Posted: **Tue Jul 23, 2013 8:56 am**

No primer necessary, but I fair them to make cleaning easier. At least fill the weave and smooth it out. I use about a teaspoon of pigment in 9 ounces of epoxy.

Posted: **Tue Jul 23, 2013 8:59 am**

No need for primer with tinted epoxy. Just fair, if you want, and roll or brush it on. As far as how much to use, a pretty good blob is usually enough

Posted: **Tue Jul 23, 2013 9:19 am**

You will need a couple coats .

Posted: **Tue Jul 23, 2013 1:54 pm**

Cool beans. Thanks for the replies. I'm also trying to finalize my paint order, and am unsure about the quantities.. I'm thinking a quart of ice blue for the slick lines, rub rails and interior sides, and two quarts whisper gray to get the outside. Does that sound like enough? How many coats of paint do you put on? How about KG quantites, would a quart get all the decks? That stuff looks like it goes a pretty long way in the videos. Wasn't quite prepared for how much the paint/finish out was going to cost, so trying to nail this down. Any knudge in the right direction is appreciated, not like I'm going to hold anybody to it, if I've got to order more.

Posted: **Tue Jul 23, 2013 3:36 pm**

Sterling paint? If so, I was told a quart for the hull and a quart for the insides is more than plenty. Dougster said that he did his 22' boat, inside and out, with less than 2 quarts.

Posted: **Tue Jul 23, 2013 4:32 pm**

Well, that's good to hear, especially for the price. Once I added up primer, paint and non skid using gallons I figured I might as well spray paint it camo and go buy a benelli shotgun instead.

Posted: **Tue Jul 23, 2013 5:19 pm**

I hear ya! I could have added lots to my arsenal instead of building this boat! And order your paint early, Sterling has had some hick ups lately. It took over a month to get my paint. Joel said they got the problem fixed but better safe than waiting forever.

Posted: **Tue Jul 23, 2013 9:08 pm**

The Sterling worked well for me and did go a long way. 2 quarts for the whole boat. I used ice blue for the hull, Matterhorn White for the cockpit, and outside cabin, and blue Kiwi for the decks. You are welcome of course to come see it here in Blanco if you wish. I do have a sample of the Kiwi I put on a 3' square piece of ply for practice that I could show you. I'm in New Braunfels most thursday evenings and could bring it. These boats aren't cheapo, that's for sure, but even a few hundred bucks for a good looking paint job that may last 10 years is worth it, I think.

Paid the price Dougster

Posted: **Wed Jul 24, 2013 6:13 am**

Appreciate the offer dougster, and I may take you up on that kiwi grip sample another Thursday. This week, I've got some work getting in the way of building, so couple late nights ahead. Saw you gotl that boat of yours loaded and move, looks great. Can't wait to get mine painted and ready for the water, appreciate the comment on the paint quantities.

Posted: **Wed Jul 24, 2013 3:58 pm**

On KiwiGrip quanities for our boats, I have heard anywhere from 2qts to a gallon. I have heard it really depends on what level of texture you go with. The heavier the texture the more you are going to use. I am planning on a fairly non-aggressive texture so I am going to start with 2 quarts and see how far that takes me.

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 8:30 am**

Got the inside glass lay up done on Saturday, wet on wet all the way through fillets to tape to cloth. Much happier with this glass than the outside, also better prepared. The cloth ended up being a little offset, but I don't think its enough to worry about...

Note to self, you're not ready to glass until you have a table like this set up, and a buddy who's willing to start at 7:00 am on Saturday...

Got started on the fillets, tablespoons work great, another tip from uncle cracker...

Really lucked out it was overcast all morning and temperature stayed bearable...

All done. Took us from about 8:30 am to 2:00 pm actual work time. Plus count the 2 hours I spent preparing that morning getting everything pre measured and set up...

Next day cleaned everything up and got the stringers in the boat. Need to pick up some tongue depressors or some shims to help get those aligned, but shooting to have those done by the end of the week so I can get the frames in over the weekend. Coming together....

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 8:39 am**

Looks great! You've been paying attention

Sure goes faster with 2 people. That is the last of your "big jobs", now it's down to small manageable tasks.

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:39 am**

Sure have, once that joint is primed with neat epoxy, it's "slicker than an eel's pecker!"

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 8:40 pm**

Look'in good! I'll bookmark a link to this page to remember what my table needs to look like. I'm still a ways off from that stage.

Posted: **Wed Jul 31, 2013 10:02 am**

Good work! Build on brother!

Posted: **Wed Jul 31, 2013 10:38 am**

Trucking right along. Got the stringers tabbed. Going to glass these in and get the side glass on before Saturday so I can spend the weekend truing up the frames. Going to do a cut out in the front and go with portable fuel tanks so I need some time to get that cut styled right before I move ahead.

Posted: **Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:07 am**

Another weekend hard at it. Got the stringers filleted and glassed in, and now I'll oficially say I'm over the hump. While able to work those in manageble portions, its no fun to be hunkered over glassing for a total of 60'. I can only imagine doing a real large boat. My hat goes off to you fellas.

Side's glassed with 6 oz...

Then while waiting for epoxy to cure, got started on fitting up the tongue extension on the jet ski trailer. Julie wondering if she's ever going to have her parking spot back...

So here's the new tongue vs the old tongue. I plan on moving the axels about 4-6 inches forward and extending the bunks on the rear of the trailer to 7'. The plan along the tongue is to use a couple carpeted 2x8's upright and hug the tongue for the forward bunks along the keel. I'm a little nervous because if I stand on the joint of the tongue I get and 1-2" of flex. The new tongue is 3x3x 1/4" and is quite a bit beefier than the rest of the tubing on the trailer, so I'm not worried about it's strength, but don't want the flex to stress the boat. I'm assuming it will behave a little better with an evenly distibuted load. I'd be totally confident if I was taking the skiff from the ramp to the boat barn, but I want to take it back and forth to the coast which is a couple hundred miles away. Any thoughts, don't be shy? The picture makes the scale look off, but it is set where the transom is on the bunks and the bow would be touching the crank.

Beyond the trailer adventure, got the inside cleaned up and ready for frames to be set.

Posted: **Wed Aug 07, 2013 10:34 am**

Lookin' good! I am gonna have to do the same thing with my trailer. If you don't mind, what did that square tubing cost you?

Posted: **Wed Aug 07, 2013 2:32 pm**

The steel, nada, I got it from the scrap pile. Galvanizing it though was a $110 minimum charge at Southwest Galvanizing. I've got to do some additional work on it to eliminate the flex I've got right now. I'm planning on moving the jack to the otherside of the winch and then pushing the tongue back into the A frame of the trailer. That way I can stiffen up the connection with some galvanized strut. Make sure you get the tongue long enough that you get a few good points of connection on the main trailer frame and not necessarily just the obvious point of connection that are there now. I should be able to get 3 bolts across 2' now and I think that will do it, but I wish I had another foot to get it real rigid.

I forgot how much working on boat trailers sucks. I'm now into framing, bunks, and new electrical. Ugh...

Posted: **Wed Aug 07, 2013 5:18 pm**

Cannonball wrote: I forgot how much working on boat trailers sucks. I'm now into framing, bunks, and new electrical. Ugh...

The new carpet for my bunks is supposed to arrive today, I'll be joining you in that circle, carpet, electrical, lights,new fender, then I get to try and make the boat fit....

Jason

Posted: **Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:29 pm**

Jason - You look like you've got a little heavier duty trailer work ahead of you. I like that Zodiac project. Going to be cool when it's done.

Posted: **Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:29 am**

Didn't touch the boat this weekend. It's just too damn hot. Looks like we may get lucky and have an overcast weekend coming up. Sure hope so, I've got frames to set.

Did get the major trailer mods about 3/4 done. I've got to put the tongue back on, hook up the new wiring, and make a bunk for the front part. Much happier now with the extra stiffness from adding the strut.

Also got the swing toungue coupler attached to the main frame. Fits in the garage by about 1-1/2". I wise man told me before I started to build the biggest boat you can and you'll be happy you did.

Posted: **Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:12 pm**

Where did you get that swing away coupling? It might be just what I need.

Posted: **Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:48 pm**

Best deal I found was on Amazon.

Posted: **Mon Aug 12, 2013 5:47 pm**

Thanks!

Posted: **Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:51 pm**

Does this mean we have another work weekend on the horizon? Better get a bigger ice chest and a louder radio, overcast or not 100+ will require some serious distractions to keep the labor force from going on strike!

Posted: **Wed Aug 14, 2013 8:41 am**

Si senor puro trabajo, going to try and get the frames tabbed in Saturday so count on a fillet and glass session on Sunday.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2013 9:27 am**

Got 39" of trailer tongue left over if anybody wants it...

Posted: **Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:26 am**

Hit a real good lick this weekend. Got the frames all cut to fit Friday and then fit and leveled everything and tabbed it in on Saturday morning. Was going with portable fuel tanks, but after seeing how small the cut out was going to be in front of the frames decided against it. The shallow 12 gallon moeller tank will be a good fit and still have some access around it for gear.

Sunday cut out all the tape blew it out and started from frame E forward. We got the transom knees glued in while we were filleting, so still have that to glass, but that should be an easy evening project. These kind of projects are always nice to do in bulk with a helper. Once again Dustin doing most of the work, while I sit back and watch...

Couldn't help but set the decks on and get another look. She's starting to come together. Makes me want to slap the motor on and tear up Canyon Lake rat rod style...

Posted: **Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:51 am**

That's looking great! With the decks on there it's looks like your almost done.

Posted: **Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:25 am**

Good job! Nice to have a helper once in awhile.

Posted: **Mon Aug 19, 2013 11:52 am**

Thanks. So close yet so far away....

Posted: **Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:34 pm**

I know exactly what you mean!

Do you have that tank on hand?

Posted: **Mon Aug 19, 2013 1:31 pm**

Nope, but I will in a few days. I ordered up the kit from amazon for the fastners, hoses and tank. Next up is hatches, and I think that will cover me for my thru hull stuff.

Posted: **Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:49 pm**

I forgot, are you building hatches? Or going with the plastic ones? If you're building them, swing by next time you are down and I can show you how I did mine. Really simple process if you want to duplicate it?

Posted: **Sat Aug 24, 2013 2:04 pm**

Still up in the air on if I'm going to build them or buy them. Send me an email with your phone number on it mike and ill try and swing by when I'm down there next and check them out. Got some time before I have to decide.

Posted: **Mon Sep 02, 2013 1:39 pm**

Mike, saw on your thread how you built the gutters for your hatches but wasn't sure how you built the lip on the hatches. They looked great!

Also, did you have to space the hinge side of the hatch differently to keep the lip from catching on the gutter when opening?

Posted: **Tue Oct 01, 2013 2:01 pm**

Back at it! Been a productive month, just not on the boat. Caught a mess of snapper in Mansfield, got a couple friends married off, and cleaned up the dove in beeville opening of south zone dove season. Now I'm back on the boat, got the cleats all cut and will start gluing here soon. Would like to be pouring foam in next weekend.

Posted: **Wed Oct 02, 2013 7:57 pm**

Use the hot glue gun technique. I think it took me an hour and a half over two nights to put them all in.

Posted: **Mon Oct 07, 2013 9:32 am**

Got a pretty good day in yesterday. Going to prime the rest of the inside this week and hopefully go ahead and pour in the foam so that next Sunday I can get the sole glued down.

Cut down the XSom to flush with the rear deck and sides...

Fish - thanks for the tip on the hot glue gun, and another shout out to uncle cracker who came up with it. Was able to get all the cleats on with very little clamping. Only need for a clamp was if I needed to pull a slight warp out of one of the cleats for a flush fit. I'll add that this is the best use of west six 10 that there ever was. It is worth $40 to not be mixing epoxy while your gluing all these little pieces on and it applies very clean and even.

I saw somewhere somebody was wondering how to align the cleats. I first marked them, but then realized it is easier to just use a straight edge off the stringer cleats to make the hull cleats nice and flush.

Got the fuel tank it's position. I'm going to foam and enclose the cavities between the stringers and the hull sides and drain everything right down the center.

Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel...

Posted: **Tue Oct 08, 2013 6:11 pm**

I like that pic "light at the end of the tunnel". Looking good you seem to be going at it. Great job on the cleats.

Posted: **Mon Oct 14, 2013 8:40 am**

Another update...

Ran out of foam to get the underfloor space as completely full. Need to order a bit more to fill in the gaps before I glue the sole down. This is what 4 gallons will get you. Need about 4.5 to get it all the way. I'm going with the 1/4" sole so want to make sure I fill it to eliminate soft spots.

Then of course had to try out some cooler configurations with everything roughed in. Charles likes it...

Motor height is set just right looks like. I'm going to sea trial her before painting just to make sure it is perfect before drilling my mounting holes.

Just looking at this pic right now, has me really jones'n to get done...

Posted: **Mon Oct 14, 2013 12:11 pm**

I love the jet drive that is soo cool!

Posted: **Mon Oct 14, 2013 1:16 pm**

Thanks dude! Spent a lot of time standing there in the cockpit dreaming of going 20 mph in 4" of water. The day dreaming really slowed my progress last weekend.

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2013 10:11 pm**

Looking really good. Another page I'll bookmark. I'll use your method to locate the hull cleats.

Posted: **Fri Oct 25, 2013 8:34 pm**

Looking really cool.

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2013 8:36 am**

Thanks for the comments fellas, got another lick put on her this weekend.

As the Cracker says, Milestone Complete!

. Got the floor glued in and the foam covered in all the hatches.

It was not without perils, though

There were a few soft spots and I'm pretty sure that when I spread glue over all the cleats it "floated" the floor a smidge higher over the foam compartments. I was really dissappointed when I noticed it, but once I just tore into my fresh new floor with a hole saw and tossed in an extra tablesppon of epoxy, the problem is solved pretty painlessly. No pain no gain...

After I got over it and moved on to the gunnels and rod holders, made some pretty good progress. It helped a lot that daylight savings time hit, and I didn't realize it until 1:00, so I picked up an extra hour of beer drinking and boat work on Sunday, sweet!

No problem letting the wood fly yesterday. Had to get those devils just right and some just weren't up to par...

Here is a better shot of the floor fix once it was sanded. I'll need to do it in a couple more places to be satisfied before glassing the floor.

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2013 8:46 am**

That looks real good. Great progress. Those frames are tricky, aren't they

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2013 9:35 am**

Sure are. I kept having blow outs with the hole saw, until I finally started to drill it from both sides. That cleaned them up. Plan on glassing the sides with the 6 oz before fitting them. It was nice to do some show work after being stuck on the floor for so long.

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2013 9:58 am**

Prevent the blow outs by putting a scrap piece of backing board under the piece you are drilling

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2013 2:58 pm**

Cracker Larry wrote:That looks real good. Great progress. Those frames are tricky, aren't they

Absolutely agree with that! No real good way to hold them square and clamp them in place. But it looks like you got her done. Boat is coming along nicely. when are you headed back down this way?

Posted: **Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:02 pm**

Cannonball wrote:Sure are. I kept having blow outs with the hole saw, until I finally started to drill it from both sides. That cleaned them up. Plan on glassing the sides with the 6 oz before fitting them. It was nice to do some show work after being stuck on the floor for so long.

My rod holders are 2 X 3/8" ply with 12oz biax on both sides. Maybe overkill but then will have to hold some weight when they are walked on.

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2013 11:56 am**

Well, happy to report the rod holder spacing came out just right. Can fit a spinning rod and the 8 weight...

And just can't get enough of setting the decks on there to see how she'll look. I got to stop it and just keep working...

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2013 1:05 pm**

Looking good! Your rodholders turned out nice. One set closer to the end, keep it up!

Posted: **Mon Nov 11, 2013 6:09 pm**

There are many times when thinking it out well, and redoing the first attempt, is definitely worth it. Feels good because it is done right. I spent a few days just to get the position of a couple of hatches *just right*, well, better than they were. Having taken a week to fabricate the locker parts, I'm now holding my breath before the fateful cuts. So... you go and keep on dry fitting those decks.

When you know they're right, have at it.

Looking very nice.

Posted: **Fri Feb 21, 2014 2:13 pm**

Back at the boat build again finally! It just turns out that my wife can make a baby faster than I can build a boat. Here is a pic of the little dude...

Now, back to business, and the weather is perfect for boat building in Texas. Last weekend I got the inside rough sanded and the cleats for the deck ripped and installed. Even managed to roll her over in the yard and go another round of sanding on the outside which I'll show pics of later. Time to get this thing done, fairing boards and RO's be damned, the variable high speed sander is the way to go! Although, the fairing board did really help me get her shaped, there is nothing like smoothing her up nice and quick with some high speed 80 grit, let it fly!

Should get some bilgecoat on the hatches and the first coat of primer in the cockpit this weekend. Then flip and finish the outside before installing the fuel tank, deck & hatches. Going to be fun finishing her this spring.

Posted: **Sat Feb 22, 2014 6:21 pm**

Congrats on the kiddo.
Boat's looking great. Looks like there's going to be a mess of FS18s on the coast the summer.

Posted: **Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:58 pm**

Good Lookin Little Dude.

Posted: **Mon Feb 24, 2014 8:05 am**

Thanks Wildbill.

You know there is going to be Fishwater. I'm on a mission over here to get wrapped up. I finished up the last of the bunks on my trailer so it is just sitting there along with the motor waiting to be put to good use. I've got a couple more items to tidy up in the hatches and cockpit and then primer & paint go on before I flip and finish the outside. Hoping to have her ready to flip by the end of next weekend so I can get finished with the outside. I'm really jonesn after having cabin fever with the little one.

Posted: **Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:05 am**

Cockpit primed!...

Going to install the last of the below deck framing for the hatches and the rod tubes before the 2nd coat of bilgekote. After that she gets flipped and the outside gets finished. I'm wanting to have everything below decks done so when I get the outside wrapped up I can put the hardware/fuel tank in and have it on the trailer while I finish the decks.

Posted: **Tue Mar 04, 2014 9:33 pm**

Your work is looking really good! Your flying now. If you get a chance post some pics of the trailer. I too picked up a jetski trailer that I plan to extend. Just wondering how you did the bunks.

Posted: **Mon Mar 10, 2014 8:12 am**

Shamrock, here is a pic of the forward trailer bunk. I'll probablly put some pvc guides on it once I get it sitting on there. I will say I'm a bit nervous about how long it ended up, but I've had it on the highway empty and it seems like it's going to work fine. Would be totatlly acceptable for short trips, so I may be looking for a boat barn down there once I get it wrapped up. I used 1/4" tubing that I got out of a scrap pile and got it galvanized. Be sure to get an extra long piece, and bring it back past the point of attachment with some extra braces. You can see where I had to to this early in my build, but if I had another foot on it it would stiffen it up a bit. Then I put a 2x6 bolted to some strut. It looks a little sketchy up front, but I already mocked up the bow eye, and these boats are so strong, I bet you could hang it from that thing, so I opted not to do a cradle. All in all it should work well especially for the pirce, I'm in this half of what I would be doing it any other way with the swing tongue and all!

Got the last of the below deck framing done and the 2nd coat of bilge paint on the hatches. Next weekend will be a mud bug boat flipping bonanza at my house so I can get the outside wrapped up...

Tank sits nice and low allowing some room for extra gear in the forward hatch. I oopted to leave the space in between the stringers open to allow this to sit a little deeper, and just put some cleats in to keep the tank in position. I'll put a tie down strap of some sort on top of that, but don't think it would go anywhere regardless once the fill cap is mounted...

Really happy with how the rod holders turned out. Yet another perfect opportunity for the west six10 to shine...

Posted: **Wed Mar 19, 2014 8:44 am**

We are praying for temps in Louisiana to climb up there so we can start eating mud bugs. Our town is dry right now! Regardless we had a shrimp boil boat flipping bonanza on Saturday and here are the results...

In my effort to make sure that I had a completely even and flat planing surface before glassing the inside I overlooked a support forward under frame B and ended up with a bump and corresponding low spot in the keel between frames B & C. It is a 1/4" low spot when I put a 4' level on it that levels smooths back out 1' each side of the keel. The good news is the hull is dead nuts aft of frame C where I screwed the hull to a 2x6 and pulled some other spots out prior to glassing the inside. Should I attempt to correct? Best method, glass or fair? I'm using a jet out board, so it is going to be more sensitive to these kinds of things than if I was just using a prop. Here are some pics...

Posted: **Fri Mar 21, 2014 8:05 am**

Well, giving the knothched trowel technique a go for the last of the low spots, sand, then one more splash of microballons before I quick fair everything. Even picked up some 4" sandpaper so I can make another of the dreaded long boards or two to get this thing smoothed up. I realize now, I used way too much fairing compound the first go round and did not sand it down enough the first couple passes. I'd recommend anybody who is doing their first boat to sand the first coat or two with a variable speed sander without going too deep and then come back with quick fair and long board to correct the whirlybirds. That would have saved me a ton of time.

Posted: **Fri Mar 21, 2014 8:07 am**

Another Question - How do most finish the laminated rub rail? I saw Uncle Cracker had put a router to his FS18 .... What size radius top and bottom? Does anybody glass over them or just coat with epoxy? I'm planning on trimming them out with a small stainless rail similar to Shine's jet a bout. Thanks

Posted: **Fri Mar 21, 2014 10:34 am**

I ran a router over mine but don't remember the size. It was big enough to let me wrap glass past the deck over and down to the bottom edge of the rub rail. The deck extended over the top edge of the rub rail before I routed it, it didn't butt up against the side panels. Dunno how well I worded that

Your lookin' good from here.

Building in Blanco Dougster

Posted: **Fri Mar 21, 2014 11:38 am**

Cannonball wrote:Another Question - How do most finish the laminated rub rail? I saw Uncle Cracker had put a router to his FS18 .... What size radius top and bottom? Does anybody glass over them or just coat with epoxy? I'm planning on trimming them out with a small stainless rail similar to Shine's jet a bout. Thanks

I'm wondering the same for my GF16. I was thinking of rounding over the top edge with a 1/2" roundover bit, leaving the bottom edge alone and covering it with 6oz cloth.
The boat is looking good. I had the plans for the FS 18 but I wanted to try something "easier"

first.

Posted: **Fri Mar 21, 2014 4:14 pm**

Thanks Dougster, that makes sense to me, I think I'll try the same. Your rig is looking real nice.

I hear ya Noles. This thing has definetly been more of a project than I estimated. And right now I'm a construction estimator for a living

I'm on the home stretch though now and am really looking forwad to going 20 mph in 4" of water.

Posted: **Mon Mar 24, 2014 11:41 am**

I used a 3/8" radius on most of my rubrail stuff. On my D15, I used 9 0z. woven tape for the bulk of the rail and cut strips of 10 oz. cloth on the bias for the areas with complex curves. On my rebuild project, I used the bias cut strips for the new toerail. That laid down very well.

Posted: **Mon Jun 02, 2014 12:42 pm**

Still at it. All you FS18 builders are motivating me with all the fresh paint jobs. She went from this...

Arg, to this...

Ughhh, to this...

Balls!, to this...

And finally she waits for a bottom job and color...

Planning on bottom job this weekend and then final paint the sides the following. I've read the how to's and plan on following Cracker's graphite bottom job instructions, any other pointers? Bring em on. Don't want to screw this part up.

Posted: **Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:10 pm**

If you haven't glassed over the top edge of your transom yet reconsider painting until after you flip.

This is what mine looked like.

Before:

After:

Posted: **Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:31 pm**

I agree with waiting. I waited and I'm glad I did. With the bottom covered in graphite you are just painting the sides.
Larry's advice on the graphite is spot on. The hotter the better and it will flow out beautifully. But remember it doesn't start to get real slick til the third coat or so.

Posted: **Mon Jun 02, 2014 2:15 pm**

I can relate to all the ughs and args

Graphite is easy, easier than paint to get right.

Posted: **Tue Jun 03, 2014 8:22 am**

I bet you can, been watching you on that console, and whew, better you than me.

We sure are glad that you post all that good stuff for us to learn from though, here is a shot of a buddy building a PH18 and this would be our 3rd big fiberglass lay up. We've got it down now...

I think I'll take the advice and wait to paint. Thanks!

Posted: **Wed Jun 04, 2014 9:58 pm**

Just a small tip on rolling the graphite on the bottom of you boat. I am not sure which rollers Larry used for his boats butthe white foam rollers worked the best for me. I tried the short nap mohair roller and they were very linty. The yellow West system foam rollers fell apart, the when the epoxy gets sticky it pulls them apart. The only other tip I have is do it when it is hot.

Posted: **Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:43 pm**

Mike, I've had pretty good luck with these rollers with most anything besides final finish paints where you need a foam one. The sterling high build primer has seemed to be the harshest I've used so far on rollers, and these held up real good. No hair loss (or very little from the end rubbing agianst the rub rail), stick roller frame, soak up very little epoxy themselves, and cheap too $6.50 gets you 2 of them. Check out your local Shermin Williams store...

Planning on using these on the graphite bottom unless anybody has had a bad experience with them?

Posted: **Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:50 pm**

The mohair rollers I used came from Lowes. I am sure the Sherwin rollers are better quality. The painting supplies at Lowes aren't the best...

Posted: **Fri Jun 06, 2014 8:09 am**

The rollers worked ok. Still got some fuzz in there after two coats, but with 30% graphite mixture it would be pretty hard to spread with a foam roller. Here is a pic after the 2nd coat going on this morning...

You can see the spots in this one...

I'm thinking that might be it until Saturday and then I'll give it a wet sand and apply the last coat with a bit less graphite in the mix using a roller. Any better ideas?

Overall I'm pumped to see a finish surface come together. Got me fired up enough to start coating the last of the decks and gunnels so I can flip her this weekend and get the last half dozen pieces glued and glassed...

Posted: **Fri Jun 06, 2014 8:54 am**

Looks great! I think I ended up with 5 coats on mine. I went a bit overboard

. It never came out perfectly flat like paint, there was still a little stipple.

I know you are chomping at the bit to get her floating! Keep on keepin' on!

Posted: **Fri Jun 06, 2014 8:56 am**

for the graphite. I like the cigar/hotdog style foam rollers, you might have to switch them out if they start to swell too much, but on a bot that size you should be able to get the whole thing done with one roller. looks good to me

Posted: **Fri Jun 06, 2014 9:01 am**

If you decide to stick with the mohair rollers, some guys find it helps to roll over the sticky side of masking tape before using it- helps to pull loose fibers out.

Posted: **Sat Jun 07, 2014 8:43 pm**

How did that last coat of graphite turn out? I never got mine perfect, it still has some roller stipple but it was close enough for me. I figure as shallow as this boat it going only shrimp and the odd mud minnow will ever see it.

Posted: **Sun Jun 08, 2014 6:53 pm**

Real nice. Thanks for the tip Shine...

Used these rollers and tipped it. Tipping was a must or I would have had a million little bubbles. But the rollers work very well, just be prepared for a very quick very light one time tip...

Then we had some more fun, flipping her in the rain, here's some pics of her on the trailer now. Jet ski trailer is working out good. Much better than I thought.

The crank and the bottom bunks needed a quick adjustment, but that was it. Just barely fits...

Started whacking away at the decks...

And, got the gunnel rails epoxied in...

Finally feel like i'm on the home stretch. Now let's just hope I pass my game warden inspection this Friday with it all rat rod style, otherwise I will be bandito fishing come a vacation we have coming up next month. Got my schedule cleared until the forth and hope to be painting then.

Posted: **Sun Jun 08, 2014 8:19 pm**

Turned out great! Good luck with the Blame Warden! I have to get one of them out this week to "inspect" my boat too. From what I have heard it is more of a formality than anything. They just want to see that it is not a stolen hull trying to get new hull numbers.

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