willg's PH18 - "Yepper" launched 6/11/17
Re: willg's PH18
You are making a lot of progress and your boat looks great. Very good workmanship. My visit with you really inspired me to start on mine. I hope to get my plywood in the next week or so. I am trying to decide how much epoxy and fiberglass to order now. Glenn
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Re: willg's PH18
Thanks, Glenn. Glad to hear you'll be starting soon and I'm looking forward to watching your progress. I would recommend getting the standard epoxy/glass kit from Bateau. You'll get a better idea of what else you'll need after you've been at it for a while. For instance, I've ordered some additional epoxy and fillers for my strakes/reverse chines. Should have gotten fairing mix so will need that before long. I know I'll need more cloth, probably more EZ Fillet and Quick Fair but will wait till after a flip and maybe combine with pigment and some other things. I don't have any comparison, but I have really liked the System Three products and don't think you could go wrong with that, and it should save you some time and head-scratching.
Will
Will
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Re: willg's PH18
I have a build update, and would like anyone's input into my plans for a reverse chine. Since my last post I found that there were some areas on the aft part of the chines and on the transom seams that appeared dry/airy/devoid of epoxy. I made the painful but I think right decision to grind away all the epoxy and tape down to bare wood on these joints. I went forward from the transom about 12 ft, until the chine angle becomes more obtuse and where there was no air in the glass. I think the problem was that I didn't round over the edges enough before glassing and/or didn't get enough epoxy into the glass. The second time around I corrected both of those issues and also laid long strips of 3 mil plastic over the joints as peel ply to evacuate the air. The result was very satisfying. Anyhow, after family vacation and work keeping me away from the build I am now back on it.
I sharpened up the transom edges with epoxy/flour/milled glass. That turned out nice.
For the reverse chine, using measurements from the plans for the hull side profile I cut a piece of thin fiberboard and fixed it to the side. It stands proud of the bottom surface by 3/4 inch.
If I make the reverse chine width 4.5 inches along the hull the resulting angle is about 9.5 degrees and would look like this:
I'm planning so far to keep that width the same going forward 8 ft, then would gradually taper it narrower going forward, such as along the line shown.
I'll make the curve smoother in its final form. I will lay some ply on a putty bed in the reverse chine, then cover with putty, then will glass over it after I remove the mold. I'm also going to put a lifting strake on either side, with approximately the same angle. From my study of many production hulls, the angles of the hard/reverse chines and lifting strakes go from horizontal (parallel to the water line) to about the angle I've shown on my build. Any input or advice would be appreciated. Feels good to be working on the build again!
Will
I sharpened up the transom edges with epoxy/flour/milled glass. That turned out nice.
For the reverse chine, using measurements from the plans for the hull side profile I cut a piece of thin fiberboard and fixed it to the side. It stands proud of the bottom surface by 3/4 inch.
If I make the reverse chine width 4.5 inches along the hull the resulting angle is about 9.5 degrees and would look like this:
I'm planning so far to keep that width the same going forward 8 ft, then would gradually taper it narrower going forward, such as along the line shown.
I'll make the curve smoother in its final form. I will lay some ply on a putty bed in the reverse chine, then cover with putty, then will glass over it after I remove the mold. I'm also going to put a lifting strake on either side, with approximately the same angle. From my study of many production hulls, the angles of the hard/reverse chines and lifting strakes go from horizontal (parallel to the water line) to about the angle I've shown on my build. Any input or advice would be appreciated. Feels good to be working on the build again!
Will
Last edited by willg on Thu Oct 21, 2021 11:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: willg's PH18
Chines are done. Went with the plan above.
Put in some pieces of filler ply.
Molds removed. The white splotches are where I planed down some high spots, further sanding and smoothing to follow. I used mix of flour/chopped glass/milled glass initially, then flour mixture by itself as icing. Strakes are next.
Put in some pieces of filler ply.
Molds removed. The white splotches are where I planed down some high spots, further sanding and smoothing to follow. I used mix of flour/chopped glass/milled glass initially, then flour mixture by itself as icing. Strakes are next.
Last edited by willg on Thu Oct 21, 2021 11:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: willg's PH18
Good looking work. This is going to be one fine boat. John
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Re: willg's PH18
Thank you, John. I'm standing on the shoulders of you and other boat-building giants.
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Re: willg's PH18
I made 7' strakes from SYP, glued on with Gel Magic and extended the last 1" with flour/milled/chopped glass to be flush with the transom. I hope to glass them this weekend, build the angle up sharp, then on to fairing! When I made the extensions I drilled a few shallow holes in the wood and filled them with putty for an extra bite.
Last edited by willg on Thu Oct 21, 2021 11:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: willg's PH18
it all cleaned up nicely .......
I think the angle on the chine flats will work well for you. If I remember from my textbook correctly, after 5% you can start seeing more drag introduced at higher speeds.
I think the angle on the chine flats will work well for you. If I remember from my textbook correctly, after 5% you can start seeing more drag introduced at higher speeds.
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Re: willg's PH18
Here are some new pics.
Strakes are glassed in with 2 overlapping layers of 12 oz biax cloth, and covered with poor man's peel ply.
This is after the final sanding (I think) before fairing.
Strakes are glassed in with 2 overlapping layers of 12 oz biax cloth, and covered with poor man's peel ply.
This is after the final sanding (I think) before fairing.
Last edited by willg on Thu Oct 21, 2021 11:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: willg's PH18
That looks sharp Nice work Will!
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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