GF16 In The PSL
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Re: GF16 In The PSL
Plans purchased this AM. I'll put a thread up once there's something to see.
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Re: GF16 In The PSL
Hallo,
I'm ready to begin this boat, and I'm wondering if there is any reason not to move the middle seat forward at the joint of the side plywood ?
This means to me, have the boat more strong and more space in the back.
Does make sense ?
Thanks,
Max.
I'm ready to begin this boat, and I'm wondering if there is any reason not to move the middle seat forward at the joint of the side plywood ?
This means to me, have the boat more strong and more space in the back.
Does make sense ?
Thanks,
Max.
Re: GF16 In The PSL
That would be a question for the designer, Jacques. I built mine as designed. I initially had thought of modifications but decided against it as it was my first build. I did fully glass the hull inside and out. That was my only deviation from the plans.
It is an awesome skiff and I love it.
Having a blast in the PSL....
It is an awesome skiff and I love it.
Having a blast in the PSL....
Gary
GF-16 Completed
GF-16 Completed
Re: GF16 In The PSL
We discussed that in another thread yesterday:
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=60142
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=60142
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: GF16 In The PSL
Wonder if steam-bent stock would be OK for rubrail. Spruce isn't really 'a thing' around here - have to ship it in ($!) but I can normally get Cypress and rip it down to say 1/2" or 3/4". My attempts at consistent rips on the ply were... discouraging.
Re: GF16 In The PSL
I never specified spruce for the rubrail. That must come from some wooden boat forum.
They love expensive hard to find wood and you are not a real man unless you own at least two bizarre saws with a japanese name.
I prefer and specify laminated strips of plywood. It is much easier to shape, it is stronger and no steam needed.
I try to stay away from steaming, the wood gets wet and you must let it dry clamped on the boat before applying epoxy.
BTW, you can probably bend that rubrail without steaming. That sheer line is almost planar (= curved in one way only).
They love expensive hard to find wood and you are not a real man unless you own at least two bizarre saws with a japanese name.
I prefer and specify laminated strips of plywood. It is much easier to shape, it is stronger and no steam needed.
I try to stay away from steaming, the wood gets wet and you must let it dry clamped on the boat before applying epoxy.
BTW, you can probably bend that rubrail without steaming. That sheer line is almost planar (= curved in one way only).
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: GF16 In The PSL
Thats what I used, left over 1/4" laminated in three layers per the plans. I just cut it with a skil saw and a guide I got at Lowes. I didn't feel like messing with the table saw as its buried in the shed...
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?par ... &cId=PDIO1
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?par ... &cId=PDIO1
Gary
GF-16 Completed
GF-16 Completed
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Re: GF16 In The PSL
Jacques:
Spruce for me comes from the family boat building up in Southeast Alaska where it isn't nearly so hard to get. I'll take another whack with the skil saw and a 1/4" sheet from the home un-improvement store.
<Edit> I have no special love for those funky saws. I have enough trouble using the ones I've got.
Spruce for me comes from the family boat building up in Southeast Alaska where it isn't nearly so hard to get. I'll take another whack with the skil saw and a 1/4" sheet from the home un-improvement store.
<Edit> I have no special love for those funky saws. I have enough trouble using the ones I've got.
Re: GF16 In The PSL
I was joking about the wooden boat afficionados, I like to tease them but don't say that you are one of them.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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