PG25 Panga Build
Re: PG25 Panga Build
Chuck, Mt. Panga rises to a summit of 45 inches at the peak to the sheer. It does seem big in the angle of the pictures, but in reality will look proportioned in the water. I fish and boat the Central Coast of California with some big swells and wind waves. Having a nice big wave splitter up front as the bow rides high was what attracted me to the design. The Panga design is the most popular boat in Mexico and used all over Asia and the Caribbean, so I figure there's strength in numbers. It also makes for a very efficient ride above and through the water to keep the fuel bill down. Speaking of splitting waves, I'm working on the Spray Rails and Keel Skeg now. More pictures to follow...
Re: PG25 Panga Build
Spray Rail Update: I squared the aft edges of the chine using 10" sheetrock knife and some thickened epoxy. After a light sand it was easily ready for Spray Rails. I decided to use 1" x 2" Poplar for it's tight grain, lack of knots and low cost for my both the Spray Rails and Keel Skeg. Poplar is used here often for paint grade house cabinets and trim. I used a router table and a 3/8" bit to round off two edges. I then cut a 15 degree angle to the other side which seemed the most efficient in combination with the angle of the side of the boat. I really wanted a professional look so I cut several samples with different angles and chose the best looking, efficient rail. I cut the rail at 1" for the underside which left 1 1/4" at the topsides. I cut skerfs in the areas of the curves at 1' and 6" where necessary. The Poplar bent very nicely and gradual enough not to have to use too many screws. I did a wood flour fillet and covered it all with 6" 12 oz. tape. I'm writing all the details because the info was hard to find on the forum and not on the plans. I hope this helps other builders! I'm happy with the way it turned out and hope it keeps the spray down on a cold day on the Pacific Ocean!
Re: PG25 Panga Build
I should write a page to add to all the plans about skegs, sprayrails and shine steps, explaining why in most cases they are optional.
Explaining the pros and cons, some misconceptions etc.
Besides that, you did it right, it looks good.
Explaining the pros and cons, some misconceptions etc.
Besides that, you did it right, it looks good.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: PG25 Panga Build
Thanks Jacques! I'm really happy with the way the Spray Rails and Skeg turned out. Hopefully they work as well as they look.
I'm now at the fairing stage which seems to never end! I'm taking one 1/4 section at time to take advantage of the learning curve. I especially want the sides to look factory smooth. Question for the group: Do you find it easier to cover an entire area with a thin coat of Quickfair to find slight indentations or do most of you just spot areas using feel or a guide coat? I'm learning the fine art of Zen sanding!
I'm now at the fairing stage which seems to never end! I'm taking one 1/4 section at time to take advantage of the learning curve. I especially want the sides to look factory smooth. Question for the group: Do you find it easier to cover an entire area with a thin coat of Quickfair to find slight indentations or do most of you just spot areas using feel or a guide coat? I'm learning the fine art of Zen sanding!
Re: PG25 Panga Build
I agree with you Jacques lots of misconceptions out there on what the skeg, sprayrails and chine steps do and don't do. Just like in this case. Ron you should shorten the skeg so that it ends about 10-12 inches from the transom. This prevents ventilation coming off the skeg to the prop. That is unless you are going to use a motor bracket which will set back the motor 18-24".
Regards, Tom
Regards, Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: PG25 Panga Build
Tom, thanks for the input! I don't plan on using a motor bracket, just the standard long shaft. I did read up on the issue and took the advice from Jacques. He wrote that with only some minor turbulence, the Panga will track much better by bringing the skeg all the way back. I fish off-shore and some of my most scary moments were in a following sea when the boat would not track straight down a wave. It's not too late to make the change, so I'm all ears. Jacques, care to elaborate?
Re: PG25 Panga Build
I missed the question because it was posted in a "non technical" forum.
Skeg: for high planing speeds, the skeg should end about 18" before the transom.
TomW is correct about the turbulence: at high speed, the skeg aerates the prop BUT the PG25 is not designed as an high speed boat.
I know the study plans include high top speeds but those boats are very efficient around 25 mph or less.
In that case, a full length skeg is fine, prop aeration will be minor.
If you plan to routinely cruise faster, trim the skeg.
That is my preference, you decide knowing the way you plan to use the boat.
BTW, to reduce the turbulence, make the end of the skeg sharp, no rounded corners.
About broaching: the larger skeg and the further aft, the better the boat will resist broaching.
There are other factors involved in particular the volumes distribution.
Production boats have wide sterns and fine entries. That volume pushes the stern forward while the fine bow digs in the water. The stern tires to go faster than the bow . . .
The Panga has less volume in the stern than those boats and thanks to the high bow, a good reserve of buoyancy there.
Just because of that, they will not have the same tendency to broach.
Skeg: for high planing speeds, the skeg should end about 18" before the transom.
TomW is correct about the turbulence: at high speed, the skeg aerates the prop BUT the PG25 is not designed as an high speed boat.
I know the study plans include high top speeds but those boats are very efficient around 25 mph or less.
In that case, a full length skeg is fine, prop aeration will be minor.
If you plan to routinely cruise faster, trim the skeg.
That is my preference, you decide knowing the way you plan to use the boat.
BTW, to reduce the turbulence, make the end of the skeg sharp, no rounded corners.
About broaching: the larger skeg and the further aft, the better the boat will resist broaching.
There are other factors involved in particular the volumes distribution.
Production boats have wide sterns and fine entries. That volume pushes the stern forward while the fine bow digs in the water. The stern tires to go faster than the bow . . .
The Panga has less volume in the stern than those boats and thanks to the high bow, a good reserve of buoyancy there.
Just because of that, they will not have the same tendency to broach.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: PG25 Panga Build
Love the design. I am enjoying watching this one come together.
Need to make a small hijack, please forgive me.
Fuzz
Need to make a small hijack, please forgive me.
After reading this I take it that boats with finer sterns and fuller bows will not as likely to broach? I ask because one thing I really miss is that feeling one gets when the boat makes a hard turn on a wave face and then dips its house into the ocean.jacquesmm wrote: About broaching: the larger skeg and the further aft, the better the boat will resist broaching.
There are other factors involved in particular the volumes distribution.
Production boats have wide sterns and fine entries. That volume pushes the stern forward while the fine bow digs in the water. The stern tires to go faster than the bow . . .
The Panga has less volume in the stern than those boats and thanks to the high bow, a good reserve of buoyancy there.
Just because of that, they will not have the same tendency to broach.
Fuzz
Re: PG25 Panga Build
It's a compromise. If the stern is too narrow, the boat will not plane or not be very efficient at planing speed.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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