Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

I finally pulled the trigger and started building the Panga PG25 after much consideration of designs and build methods. I live on the Central Coast of California with some windy and rough sea at times so I want a tested, sea worthy, fuel efficient fishIng boat with some good lines. Wish me luck!

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=56813/

Anyone have tips on posting photos with an IPad?

Love the Pangas, would be a design I'd be interested in too!! Good Skill!

Once the photos are uploaded, it's the same drill: open the photo, copy image location, paste into message, highlight image url, click Img button over post and preview to make sure you got it.

That's a lot of strong back! Will you be putting a roof over it?

Thanks Hank and Jorge! The weather is very good here, so I'm using a tarp for now until painting and then think about an enclosure. I read all of the The Malolo-panga22-Kauai build for inspiration. I also love this look, detail and finish:
http://www.middletonboatworks.com/currentproject.html Are there any other similar builds I should read?

Bending 1/2" ply is a challenge, but patience paid off and the bow took shape. I tried wire twisting, but wide ratcheting cargo straps are the way to go. I pre-drilled too many stitch holes, should have drilled as needed. It's mazing how easy it all comes together with a good plan.

I first found this site while searching for Panga plans. Love that hull design You made a good choice, looks like you've made a good start too. I'll be watching this one

Edit: Looks like yall need some rain. I can send you some

Thanks Cracker Larry! I've read about your builds and am thoroughly impressed. Thanks for all your posts. I'm open to any and all advice. First time build and excited. I've fished a few Pangas in Baja Mexico and they seem to be the boat of choice south of me so I figured it was a tested and true design.

The drought here is the worst in 100 years, send all you've got, the wells are going dry.

Starting to take shape here. I found I didn't need the bow mold I had ready. It all came together like origami!

It all came together like origami!

It's amazing how all those curved panels line up and fit just right. Jacques knows what he's doing

Pangas are the boat of choice all through the Caribbean and Central America.

That is a big girl!

I wish I could send you some rain! It hits me on the way to CL!

Beautiful. I too will be watching your build. If I'm ever afflicted with BBV again the Panga is on my short list.

Cracker Larry wrote:Pangas are the boat of choice all through the Caribbean and Central America.

And now the Central Coast of California, I'm in good company!

She's looks like a Humpback whale!

The seams are all double taped and she's nearly ready for cloth. I definitely have BBV "Boat building virus."

You are flying through this build! Looks great!

Noles309 wrote:You are flying through this build! Looks great!

Thanks Noles!

I love the 25' panga . Its going to be fun watching this build.

Ron great looking build. I will love following this build.

Boat is looking great I also like the lines of the Panga. I'm here in arizona and have a lot of people ask me if my OD18 is a Panga?
They say it looks like the Panga's in Mexico. But don't know of any Panga's with a flat bottom
I'll be watching your build and if I'm up in Cali, I'll give you a shout. Still have family in Cali, might have to take them some water
Larry B

I decided to glass the transom today. I used a 1/2" router bit on the edges, filleted this inside, then wrapped the corners and edges in 12 inch Biax and then covered it all in the 50 inch. I thought it would be good to get some experience with a "Wet on wet" operation before tackling the whole bottom. All went well but I learned a few things I thought I would share in case anyone out there is contemplating a build: Never use chip brushes, foam rollers fall apart, use cloth instead. Never mix more that you can use within 15 minutes or so considering the weather, cut every part of the cloth before hand, no matter what! Solo "Wet on wet" is possible if you time it right.

That looks great.

A router can be a great help when used properly in building these boats. I have two with about 40 carbide tipped bits.

Good luck with your build.

TomW

I used the 4" white foam Blue Hawk rollers from Lowe's exclusively without issues. I also used chip brushes from there and Harbor Freight for laminating.
What epoxy are you using? Some that you buy from FG stores are like molasses and I agree you can't use foam and chip brushes. The Marinepoxy from BBC works great with rollers and chip brushes.
Thats my take anyway.

I also used foam rollers and chip brushes by the dozen. That being said i use to cut the brisle lenth in half
To make them stiffer. Foam rollers where from west systems for epoxy.

Question: After the initial wetting out of the fabric with Marinexpoxy, do you like to add more coats of resin to fill the cloth fairly smooth or use Peel Ply or go to straight to filler and/or Quick-fair? I read the Malolo build thread and he refers to "On my fourth coat of resin" many times. Thanks for the

After the initial wetting out and curing, I sand it to knock down the binder threads in the cloth and feather out all the rough spots. Then I roll on one more coat of epoxy to start filling the weave and seal that raw glass I've exposed. Then fairing, sanding, fairing, sanding... about 4 times, or until you just can't stand it anymore. Walk away for a day or 2, then come back and do it again.

Cracker Larry wrote:After the initial wetting out and curing, I sand it to knock down the binder threads in the cloth and feather out all the rough spots. Then I roll on one more coat of epoxy to start filling the weave and seal that raw glass I've exposed. Then fairing, sanding, fairing, sanding... about 4 times, or until you just can't stand it anymore. Walk away for a day or 2, then come back and do it again.

Any tips for working in hot weather? It get's hot here on the Central Coast of California and my Marinexpoxy with the Medium Hardner seems or run like maple syrup when it gets over 80 degrees. When I make fillets with the red powder, they droop after starting out like peanut butter. When is it too hot to work?

Red powder?

Which foam rollers do you have tearing apart on you?

Slow hardener is probably a better bet if the temperatures are hot.

I am going out on a limb here and guessing your fillets are too big, and I am not sure what red powder you are using, but if I am right you are using a fairing compound filler instead of a structural filler. Post some pictures and let everyone know exactly what you are using. Better to fix it now than worry about it later.

Hmm, microballoons was what I thought, didn't know they where mixing up an all purpose filler.

Just make sure you aren't building up your fillets to high and work wet on wet to get the tape over your filets and they shouldn't sag.

You make the glue and fillets from the wood flour not the fairing material, which is the purple stuff.

http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetai ... =E_woo_1lb

Noles309 wrote:You make the glue and fillets from the wood flour not the fairing material, which is the purple stuff.

http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetai ... =E_woo_1lb

I thought so too, but the description to what he linked too says it is suitable for fillets. I am not there, but my guess is the fillets are too big. Pictures are worth 1000 words.

You get a stronger filet with wood fibers mixed to a peanut butter thickness, than you do with microballons. Make sure you have a good radius between the parts you are fileting a 3/4" is good as the fiberglass will lay well then.

Tom

I decided to install the Rub Rail in order to smooth out the sheer and keep busy. I used a lamination of 2 @ 3/8" Okume and left it 1/2" high at the deck for planning. It took two fillets at the bottom edge to round it out. I then sanded the hard edge and covered it all with 9 oz. cloth for durability. I held it back at the bow 6 inches to keep the bow clean; it seemed too "pointed" to me otherwise. I rounded the rail the aft corners and at the transom. I'm getting it ready to cloth the bottom. All tips are welcome!

It looks good from here. That glass was a little overkill but it will not hurt. It will be a very strong rubrail.

Need a bigger tent Boat looks great!

I'm jealous! Always wanted to build a Panga, but the weather here (and my little shop) will dictate a P19!

gtcoupe wrote:I'm jealous! Always wanted to build a Panga, but the weather here (and my little shop) will dictate a P19!

There is a Panga 25 with a cuddy cabin:
http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=PG25C

Add a steering station with windshield and canvas and it will be perfect for your rainy area.

I spent months thinking about exactly that Jacques, but my shop would have me building part of it out in the weather. It's ok, one of the first designs I considered was the P21 (also too big), the P19 will actually work very well for me, especially considering the tiny boat launch that I have access to. I'll order the plans in a couple weeks.

I got an early start and 7 hours later, the Panga is all wrapped in glass! Now the fun begins!

Here's before and after pics. The photo doesn't seem to show it well, but it's all covered according to the lamination plan.

PangaRon,

That's a pretty impressive days work. It looks great.

Can you tell me about how high Mt. Panga is at its highest peak? It looks huge in the pictures.

Thanks for posting updates.

Chuck

Chuck, Mt. Panga rises to a summit of 45 inches at the peak to the sheer. It does seem big in the angle of the pictures, but in reality will look proportioned in the water. I fish and boat the Central Coast of California with some big swells and wind waves. Having a nice big wave splitter up front as the bow rides high was what attracted me to the design. The Panga design is the most popular boat in Mexico and used all over Asia and the Caribbean, so I figure there's strength in numbers. It also makes for a very efficient ride above and through the water to keep the fuel bill down. Speaking of splitting waves, I'm working on the Spray Rails and Keel Skeg now. More pictures to follow...

Spray Rail Update: I squared the aft edges of the chine using 10" sheetrock knife and some thickened epoxy. After a light sand it was easily ready for Spray Rails. I decided to use 1" x 2" Poplar for it's tight grain, lack of knots and low cost for my both the Spray Rails and Keel Skeg. Poplar is used here often for paint grade house cabinets and trim. I used a router table and a 3/8" bit to round off two edges. I then cut a 15 degree angle to the other side which seemed the most efficient in combination with the angle of the side of the boat. I really wanted a professional look so I cut several samples with different angles and chose the best looking, efficient rail. I cut the rail at 1" for the underside which left 1 1/4" at the topsides. I cut skerfs in the areas of the curves at 1' and 6" where necessary. The Poplar bent very nicely and gradual enough not to have to use too many screws. I did a wood flour fillet and covered it all with 6" 12 oz. tape. I'm writing all the details because the info was hard to find on the forum and not on the plans. I hope this helps other builders! I'm happy with the way it turned out and hope it keeps the spray down on a cold day on the Pacific Ocean!

I should write a page to add to all the plans about skegs, sprayrails and shine steps, explaining why in most cases they are optional.
Explaining the pros and cons, some misconceptions etc.

Besides that, you did it right, it looks good.

Thanks Jacques! I'm really happy with the way the Spray Rails and Skeg turned out. Hopefully they work as well as they look.

I'm now at the fairing stage which seems to never end! I'm taking one 1/4 section at time to take advantage of the learning curve. I especially want the sides to look factory smooth. Question for the group: Do you find it easier to cover an entire area with a thin coat of Quickfair to find slight indentations or do most of you just spot areas using feel or a guide coat? I'm learning the fine art of Zen sanding!

I agree with you Jacques lots of misconceptions out there on what the skeg, sprayrails and chine steps do and don't do. Just like in this case. Ron you should shorten the skeg so that it ends about 10-12 inches from the transom. This prevents ventilation coming off the skeg to the prop. That is unless you are going to use a motor bracket which will set back the motor 18-24".

Regards, Tom

Tom, thanks for the input! I don't plan on using a motor bracket, just the standard long shaft. I did read up on the issue and took the advice from Jacques. He wrote that with only some minor turbulence, the Panga will track much better by bringing the skeg all the way back. I fish off-shore and some of my most scary moments were in a following sea when the boat would not track straight down a wave. It's not too late to make the change, so I'm all ears. Jacques, care to elaborate?

I missed the question because it was posted in a "non technical" forum.

Skeg: for high planing speeds, the skeg should end about 18" before the transom.
TomW is correct about the turbulence: at high speed, the skeg aerates the prop BUT the PG25 is not designed as an high speed boat.
I know the study plans include high top speeds but those boats are very efficient around 25 mph or less.
In that case, a full length skeg is fine, prop aeration will be minor.
If you plan to routinely cruise faster, trim the skeg.
That is my preference, you decide knowing the way you plan to use the boat.
BTW, to reduce the turbulence, make the end of the skeg sharp, no rounded corners.

About broaching: the larger skeg and the further aft, the better the boat will resist broaching.
There are other factors involved in particular the volumes distribution.
Production boats have wide sterns and fine entries. That volume pushes the stern forward while the fine bow digs in the water. The stern tires to go faster than the bow . . .
The Panga has less volume in the stern than those boats and thanks to the high bow, a good reserve of buoyancy there.
Just because of that, they will not have the same tendency to broach.

Love the design. I am enjoying watching this one come together.
Need to make a small hijack, please forgive me.

jacquesmm wrote: About broaching: the larger skeg and the further aft, the better the boat will resist broaching.
There are other factors involved in particular the volumes distribution.
Production boats have wide sterns and fine entries. That volume pushes the stern forward while the fine bow digs in the water. The stern tires to go faster than the bow . . .
The Panga has less volume in the stern than those boats and thanks to the high bow, a good reserve of buoyancy there.
Just because of that, they will not have the same tendency to broach.

After reading this I take it that boats with finer sterns and fuller bows will not as likely to broach? I ask because one thing I really miss is that feeling one gets when the boat makes a hard turn on a wave face and then dips its house into the ocean.
Fuzz

It's a compromise. If the stern is too narrow, the boat will not plane or not be very efficient at planing speed.

Here's a photo if my fairing progress so far. Half of the bottom is done and ready for primer. The other half and sides are next. I've used 2 quarts of Quickfair so far and trying Totalboat Fair now. I like the 1:1 separate mixing colors and ease of sanding. Questions or comments are welcome!

I prefer QuickFair: a 2:1 will be harder after complete cure and it is 100% compatible with our other resins.
BTW, Quickfair components are also in two colors.

next time im building a boat im buying a flexicat .... it seems st be an infinitely faster way to get n even layer of filler on a compound curve....

bump

any update on this build?? - this is on my shortlist as next boat

TC

How did the flip go?

Here are some pictures. I hope they may help others with their boat flip.

Congrats That's a big milestone! I really enjoyed glassing and framing the inside. It feels like the build moves quickly at that point. Enjoy! Oh and nice cradle

Looks great!

Hi deuce_454

You wrote

next time im building a boat im buying a flexicat .... it seems st be an infinitely faster way to get n even layer of filler on a compound curve....

As I am also battling getting the filler evenly onto the boat I dearly would like to know what is a flexicat .

Next on my plan is the flip of the boat and thats why I follow this perfect PG25 Panga Build. Because if he manages to flip such a big boat I am sure I get my 14 ' AD14 also flipped

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

Here's some links about the Flexicat products:

http://www.fiberglassics.com/restoratio ... ols-review

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToSO60J9E9A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXr4afS8B6s

I haven't used any of these products myself, but what I hear is generally positive.

Beautiful boat, love those Pangas, nice work!

Nice job on the flip , nice cradle also . How did you get the cradle on top of the building jig ?

topwater wrote:Nice job on the flip , nice cradle also . How did you get the cradle on top of the building jig ?

Thanks TopWater. We used the same "Pyramid" method as moving it around the yard. Using two automotive floor jacks, we raised the cradle up to the height of of the building jig with wood blocks and two long' 4"x6". We then slid in steel pipes under the cradle and rolled it onto the jig. It was incredibly easy for just the two of us.

Any updates?

x 2 love the way it's coming out!

I have the stringers and frames in and everything is level and plum. I need to finish the tabbing and then I'll add the cleats. I'm trying to position the console correctly so I can install the conduit, but the plans are a little unclear. I want to make sure it self-bails! I had to design a custom 38 gallon gas tank for under the casting deck. There were no stock tanks that fit or were big enough for a tuna run.

looks great

still on my short list..............to build

Cockpit drainage at rest will always happen because the boat will be trimmed down by the stern. Once on plane, the trim changes, becomes better. It will ber between 2 and 4 degrees and that is fine for drainage.
The only problem that can appear is bad trim with the console exceedingly forward but that would require the console to be several feet forward of where I show it.
If you look at drawing D267/4, you"ll see the console centered on frame D. It's rear face is about halfway between D and E.
If you want an exact location, it is 18-1/2" in front of E.
A couple inches difference is not going to matter. Much more important is good weight distribution: a monster 50 gallon baitwell in the stern is going to handicap that boat much more than moving the console one foot.

Consider that running, the LCG should be where the feet of the skipper are: a few inches behind the console. Let's say 14" in front of E.

Plumbing progress! I have 2 @ 2" going aft for steering and throttle. 1 @ 1" for transducer, bilge pump, bait pump and lights, etc., 1 @ 1.5" from bow to stern for fuel line, 1 @ 1" from bow to console for lights and 1 @ 1" from bow to console for fuel sending unit.



30 gallon custom bow gas tank is in the works with parts coming from http://www.fueltankparts.com

Very clean.

Yep, and nice gradual curves should make it easy to pull those cables!

Deja Vu

Looks great! I'm following this one closely as I'm starting my build of the same boat this weekend. Between this thread and fonda's Panga 22 build thread...I think all my questions have been answered. Thanks for posting guys!

I installed the sole! I decided to screw it down nice and flat so I'll fill the screw holes when I fillet and tape the sides. I have the console built (I added 6 inches in height) so I will bolt down the base and install that next. I'm having a bow tank manufactured and am also working on the scuppers. I'll post more photos as progress continues. It is great to finally stand in the boat and feel how much deck space is in the Panga 25!

PangaRon wrote: I installed the sole! I decided to screw it down nice and flat so I'll fill the screw holes when I fillet and tape the sides.

Nothing wrong with that, I did it the same way and it holds up very fine!

Looks good, congrats on another milestone. I did the same with my sole- removed the screws and filled the holes with epoxy prior to taping. One thing I would definitely suggest is to wrap EVERYTHING in glass. The floor, edges of frames, everything. Even it's just 4 oz. I've been really hard on mine so far, and I'm sure I'd be repairing wood if it weren't for the glass on everything. It won't add much weight if your careful. My 22 is still self bailing with 4 guys and a lot of ice and gear. There's plenty of deck space in my 22, so the 25 is gonna be sweet

Thanks for the advice Fonda! I will go ahead and glass it all then. Any and all advice is appreciated. The PG25 deck space is huge! I would have been fine with the 22, but I already have a trailer.

I'm building the same boat, albeit, I'm a ways behind your current state of doneness. I was curious about whether you put foam below your sole? Also, did you epoxy seal and/or glass in the underside of the sole panels?

I'm trying to understand the pro's and con's of using the flotation foam....well in advance of actually needing it.

Thanks,

Ryan

Ryan, I did put flotation foam under the sole. The pro is giving your boat a "life jacket" in case you flip or get swamped. The con is the cost. +/- $400. The mixing and installation was super easy, but you'll need to move fast. The water on the central coast of CA is pretty cold and floating in the drink without a boat does not sound good to me. Good luck on the build!

Also, did you epoxy seal and/or glass in the underside of the sole panels?

No glass on the bottom of the sole, but EVERYTHING gets coated with 2 coats of epoxy. Especially under the sole and areas you wont ever see again.

I have added the console and deck framing. I finished the scuppers and most of the motor well and lockers. I'm starting to see I might actually complete this project and go fishing! I have my eye on a used 2006 Honda 90 four stroke with carburetors. Any thoughts on the motor welcome. I'm also trying to find a source for the steering rigging.

Nice PangaRon!! Jeff

Nice, getting closer!

Looks great, wish I was at that stage!

My only point of comparison on the honda was a 20 hp carb model my dad had 5 years ago or so. That was a great little motor with a lot more power than the number on the side would suggest. Probably doesn't help you much, but in general I think the honda's are great motors.

In regards to the motor......I was wondering if a 90 hp tiller would work on the 25 panga....it's an idea I've been kicking around for mine (I'm a ways from needing power, still trying to make it float). Seems like that would leave the entire boat wide open and make it easy to single hand when trolling for salmon. Might be a little fun when docking, but I know that they put tillers on motors up to 250hp (at least Mercury does with the hydraulic assisted Big Tiller). Sorry, this is starting to look like a thread hi-jack.

The Hondas have a great reputation for reliability - I wouldn't hesitate with that engine.

Keep in mind that tiller motors 50 HP and up can be difficult to handle at high speed.
Some large tiller motors have an "assisted" steering system but I am not familiar with it. It is some kind of hydraulic torque multiplier. Tiller control or tiller assist is the name if I remember well.

I've been lurking around the last couple years, not posting much but wanted to say nice job on your panga.....and throw in my .02 on the tiller idea.

1) The idea of hitting a log at 20 MPH on a jon boat with a 25 HP tiller in my hand brings back bad memories, replicating that feat on a much bigger hull with 90 HP is a no go for me.

2) thru infinity) A tiller setup chinglays you out of any and all pleasantries and operational advantages of a console/leaning post/tee top.

You are building a fine fine hull, let it be all it can be with a new 115.

I finished the 28 gallon fuel tank with parts from Boyd's. I made the installation in the bow and have it covered up and glassed. I found a Honda 90 four stroke at a local shop so I can burn some of that fuel! I'll add some pictures later of the Motor Well, Scuppers and Corner Storage Lockers which are ready for paint. It's actually raining in California after a 3 year drought! That's good for the land, but not good for outdoor boatbuilding!

Picture updates!

Bow Framing



Stern Locker Backing





I cut patterns for the decking and have it all ready like a jigsaw puzzle!

PangaRon, Thank you for the updated photos!! Good progress!! Jeff

Looks really good. Is that your live well in the back?

Thanks MrPaul! Those are storage lockers in both corners of the stern. The one on the starboard side has the conduit coming up from the console for steering, throttle and 12 volts. I would like a live well at the motor-well bulkhead or a console seat combo, but not sure if I should build or buy it. I posted a question on the "anything else" forum asking for design info.

It reminds me of the live wells in the pangas we fish on in cabo. They put them right there where your storage is and take water in through the bottom and drain it out through the side. That's going to be a fun boat when you're done. The 28 gallon tank will should take you a long way with that motor. We fish 1/2 day rooster fishing trips in Cabo with 1 6 gallon tank and about a gallon or 2 out of the second one. I don't know how much the pangas in Cabo weigh but the 1 we always go out on has a 115 and sips gas.

How great is this forum! I was able to meet up with fellow boat builder Fonda from this build https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... a&start=50 in Hawaii. He was kind enough to take a break from his busy business to show me his great build and even take me fishing on the beautiful windward coast of Kauai! We fought a 200+ pound Marlin for over 2 hours on 40# test and got to tail dance him right up to the boat! The PG22 handled incredibly well in the 2-3 foot waves and was incredible stable and comfortable. A great day on a great Bateau design!







I can't thank him enough!

That is one incredible looking boat Fonda did a wonderful building it. And it is amazing the quality of people you meet on this forum.

Progress report:

Nice progress PangaRon!! Jeff

Glad to see the progress report. I was wondering how this build was coming along.

Very nice hull build.

Well Done Ron!

Nice

Looking great Ron... was also wondering where the progress reports had disappeared to.

Splash! July 20, 2017 2 years 3 months

PangaRon wrote: ↑Sat Jul 22, 2017 4:40 pm Splash! July 20, 2017 2 years 3 months

Wow, awesome boat!! You did a great job

Hot Dang! That looks great!!!!!! The T-top curves work well with the hull shape.

She looks sweet as. Congratulations.

Very nice Ron. Give us some running numbers when you get a chance.

Tom

Nice Job Ron, boat looks great

Awesome! I love the Pangas.

Hi Ron,

Hats off to you very nice, congrats. She looks awesome !

Marc

I posted some more photos in the Finished Boats section and will post a performance reports soon. Thanks to all who have helped with advice on this build! It feels great to check this off my bucket list!

https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... 96#p400696

Man that looks sweet Ron! I wish that I was closer to that point with my Panga 25, but your pictures have given me an extra boost of motivation to keep sanding!

I see you have a 90 hanging on the transom, how does she perform with that HP? I'm on the fence between a 90 and a 115 and would love to hear some real world details about how the 90 pushes.