panga 22 build hull assembly

[tomcop1990]

Ive tried it just tells me it was not possible to determine the dimensions of the image ? , how do you get the bottom panels of the hull to take shape of the frames ive even kerfed my sheets and there still not taking the contour of the hull

[glossieblack]

if it helps you can email the pics at gloster as westnet dot com dot au and I'll post them for you.

[jacquesmm]

Bottom panels, at the bow, may not follow the exact curvature of the molds unless you use Okume, strap them over the molds and let sit overnight.
The Pangas have a lot of camber there and you have to accept gaps of more than 1 cm in some cases.

For your pictures, reduce their size first. Use any software to reduce the width a picture to 1000 pixels.
Paint.net is free and very good.

[tomcop1990]

[jacquesmm]

One item at a time:

Mold too wide: that mold is probably correct. Check the width at the chine but if it matches the plans, it is probably the bottom panel that is too narrow. I think I see a kink in there.
That is no problem at all. We recommend a gap of up to 10 mm, that 5 mm difference does not matter.

Camber of bottom panel at bow: it is always difficult to shape the panel perfectly there. As long as the panel is fair, accept the gap BUT in the last picture, I see what looks like a butt block on the outside.
If that is a butt block, the panel will not bend.
Is it a butt block? Why not using a fiberglass splice as the plans say?

[tomcop1990]

Ok il check that mold , the butt block was solely to keep the peices align as i glassed them it it no longer there , on some of my molds i have between 50 to 70mm in gap between them and the hull and when i strap it down it bows out inbetween the molds makes the hull look lumpy ?

[jacquesmm]

Once you are certain that your dimensions and molds height are correct, I would focus on getting a fair smooth bottom panel and not worry too much about the gap between molds and bottom panel.
The PG22 molds show a strong camber and it is difficult to get the panel to conform exactly to that camber close to the bow.
If you use straps, don't let them create a flat, use them with moderation.
Fairness comes first. The boat will be just as good with that gap.

[tomcop1990]

Ok great ive checked the mold that was concerning my it needed to be raised slightly looks great not , alright so allow for the gaps as long as the hull is fair and simetrical i can go ahead and epoxy fillit and glass tape the seams ? , will the moulds sit in the hull ok onces ive turned the hull over if there are gaps ?

[jacquesmm]

Good news about that mold.

No problem with fitting the frames in the hull later. You will have to make adjustment to the shape anyway because of the fiberglass in the corners: chine and keel.

[tomcop1990]

Alright great thanks very much for your help really appreciate it so once my hull is completed and flipped over when it comes time to install the frames i jus adjust them to the hull shape