As I was writing, I also was thinking how it would flex without the structural components. Perhaps do the rubrail and knees first and see what it does from there? The supports for the deck and seats could be the equivalent of thwarts?
I know you will get it right, just throwing out ideas.
I used very light ash, caned, canoe seats for Hermine to replace the boxed in seats that were in the plans. Bolted into cleats glued to the hull they stiffened it up a lot. Might destroy the looks on yours...
ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
- cape man
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
- glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Thanks cape man, I've been recalling your enjoyment stiffening Hermine up as lightly as possible. I'm experiencing the same buzz.
I'm building Feather Pram's three thwarts out of okume plywood pieces left over from Skinnydip or from Pram's shell. The top and bottom skins are 5mm okume, the internal ladder frame two layers of 4mm okume.
One thwart runs from port-stbd around midships, another just forward of the stern transom.
The third one runs from the bow transom aft down the centre line, and is supported by and cantilevers 5" past the midships thwart. The aft end is four solid layers of okume to cater for the cantilever and fixing to the midships thwart.
Progress on the build of the centreline thwart is shown in the pic which shows the internal faces of the top and bottom skins each with one half of the ladder frame glued on. They are now ready to be glued together.
I'm building Feather Pram's three thwarts out of okume plywood pieces left over from Skinnydip or from Pram's shell. The top and bottom skins are 5mm okume, the internal ladder frame two layers of 4mm okume.
One thwart runs from port-stbd around midships, another just forward of the stern transom.
The third one runs from the bow transom aft down the centre line, and is supported by and cantilevers 5" past the midships thwart. The aft end is four solid layers of okume to cater for the cantilever and fixing to the midships thwart.
Progress on the build of the centreline thwart is shown in the pic which shows the internal faces of the top and bottom skins each with one half of the ladder frame glued on. They are now ready to be glued together.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
- cape man
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
I had to go to Oughtred's site and look at some pictures
to get the longitudinal midship thwart in my head. So when done there are no seats? That makes sense for such a small boat.
I like the ladder design. Will you dare a test to see how much weight it will bare? I would wager it is damn close to a solid laminate and at least 30% lighter.
to get the longitudinal midship thwart in my head. So when done there are no seats? That makes sense for such a small boat.
I like the ladder design. Will you dare a test to see how much weight it will bare? I would wager it is damn close to a solid laminate and at least 30% lighter.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
- glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
I should have posted a pic of the thwart arrangements - now doing so of a another person's likely heavier build.cape man wrote: ↑Sun Jan 17, 2021 6:21 am I had to go to Oughtred's site and look at some pictures to get the longitudinal midship thwart in my head. So when done there are no seats? That makes sense for such a small boat.
I like the ladder design. Will you dare a test to see how much weight it will bare? I would wager it is damn close to a solid laminate and at least 30% lighter.
No seats with backs, just thwarts. I'll test for loadbearing before installation. If it's feeling iffy, I'll run a strip of biax discretely on underside.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Nice work GB!!! Jeff
Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
That's a beautiful pram.
What is the plan for the gunwales? Will you install a flat strip of okoume ply along the outside of the top of the top plank or a squarish strip of mahogany as a gunwale on the outside or give the boat what she deserves and install mahogany gunwales with spacered inwales with knees at the bow and stern (like the heavier example photo you posted above). Whatever you choose, gluing in the gunwale strip should tighten the shape and really cut down that jelly feel.
Have you picked out the oarlocks and oars and bow eye and other jewelry/details?
Again, she's a beauty.
What is the plan for the gunwales? Will you install a flat strip of okoume ply along the outside of the top of the top plank or a squarish strip of mahogany as a gunwale on the outside or give the boat what she deserves and install mahogany gunwales with spacered inwales with knees at the bow and stern (like the heavier example photo you posted above). Whatever you choose, gluing in the gunwale strip should tighten the shape and really cut down that jelly feel.
Have you picked out the oarlocks and oars and bow eye and other jewelry/details?
Again, she's a beauty.
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
I imagine he's planning some eucalyptus inlays on teak with carved jade for oarlocks to create rub rails. I'm also thinking there has to be some cherry inwale with white oak spindles as spacers. Bow and stern eyes must be 24K gold plated bronze with rubies and emeralds for port/starboard screw plugs.Rogerdog wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:34 pm That's a beautiful pram.
What is the plan for the gunwales? Will you install a flat strip of okoume ply along the outside of the top of the top plank or a squarish strip of mahogany as a gunwale on the outside or give the boat what she deserves and install mahogany gunwales with spacered inwales with knees at the bow and stern (like the heavier example photo you posted above). Whatever you choose, gluing in the gunwale strip should tighten the shape and really cut down that jelly feel.
Have you picked out the oarlocks and oars and bow eye and other jewelry/details?
Again, she's a beauty.
As a minimum.
- glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Double post deleted - apologies
Last edited by glossieblack on Tue Jan 19, 2021 4:12 am, edited 2 times in total.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
- glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
And the triple post deleted - apologies and
Last edited by glossieblack on Tue Jan 19, 2021 4:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
- glossieblack
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Re: ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
Good to hear from you Rogerdog. How's that special GF18 performing? Feather Pram will have no nonsense light weight squarish gunwale internally and rub rail externally. Oars and oarlocks will be utilitarian ones I've had for a fibreglass pram I've had for 40 years. .Rogerdog wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:34 pm That's a beautiful pram.
What is the plan for the gunwales? Will you install a flat strip of okoume ply along the outside of the top of the top plank or a squarish strip of mahogany as a gunwale on the outside or give the boat what she deserves and install mahogany gunwales with spacered inwales with knees at the bow and stern (like the heavier example photo you posted above). Whatever you choose, gluing in the gunwale strip should tighten the shape and really cut down that jelly feel.
Have you picked out the oarlocks and oars and bow eye and other jewelry/details?
Again, she's a beauty.
Jaysen wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:46 pm
I imagine he's planning some eucalyptus inlays on teak with carved jade for oarlocks to create rub rails. I'm also thinking there has to be some cherry inwale with white oak spindles as spacers. Bow and stern eyes must be 24K gold plated bronze with rubies and emeralds for port/starboard screw plugs.
As a minimum.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
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