ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

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JoshuaAhab
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by JoshuaAhab »

How's progress on your build?
Hi Glossie,

Nothing but hot air recently. I'm still waiting for my Nanni. Made a little headway with the keel cooler though. Dale Gusick from Fernstrum was at a marine trade show in New Brunswick (a province that neighbor's Nova Scotia where I live) and bumped into two reps directly from Nanni headquarters. They're working on proper adaptions for keel cooling the Nanni 21. My local Nanni dealer is more annoyed than I at the delay. I guess the difference being he's doing this for a living and I'm doing this for fun.

I hope the Baysan works out for you. If I build another ST21 I might follow that route to be closer to design specs.
Last edited by JoshuaAhab on Thu Feb 04, 2016 6:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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glossieblack
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by glossieblack »

JoshuaAhab wrote:


I'm still waiting for my Nanni. Made a little headway with the keel cooler though. Dale Gusick from Fernstrum was at a marine trade shoe in New Brunswick (a province that neighbor's Nova Scotia where I live) and bumped into two reps directly from Nanni headquarters. They're working on proper adaptions for keel cooling the Nanni 21.
8) 8)
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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peter-curacao
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by peter-curacao »

glossieblack wrote:Have completed taping the seams and have started preparing for wide fabric application. The Festool Rotex 150 is making life easier.

Image

It's been one month today since the build started. Will break out a bottle of celebratory bubbles tonight :)
You should you deserve it, you work fast on such a complicated hull, again very nice work!! 8) 8)

jacquesmm
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by jacquesmm »

It looks very fair and smooth from here, great job.
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Cracker Larry
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by Cracker Larry »

That is some fine looking work 8) Very nice :!:
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glossieblack
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by glossieblack »

Jacques,

Have roughed up two 'elevation' photos of alternative stern post shapes. Iin both the stern tube should be approximately half an inch higher, and in both the aft edge of the recently constructed box keel is shown as a black line

Image
Image

To get the best flow of water to the propeller, which profile approach is better- the fuller or more cut away?

Thanks. :)
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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glossieblack
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by glossieblack »

Jacques,

I've just realized that the two mock ups in the previous post were based on my assumption that there should be not be more than about 1 1/2 inches of shaft between the aft end of the stern tube and the forward end of the propeller hub.

I should have studied the plans more carefully! After re-examining plan sheet B294/11, I can now see that that there is something more like 4-5 " of shaft between the cutlass bearing and propeller hub.

So the mock ups show a stern tube and hence a stern post projecting further aft than is required. I'm away from the boat for a few days, so will post updated mock ups and associated questions later in the week.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by jacquesmm »

You have some freedom there as long as:
- the prop is where it should be
- the skeg is faired to allow a good flow to the prop.
You could have two different types of cutlass bearings, the type that is bolted on a flat or a simple tubular one in a faire skeg.
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glossieblack
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by glossieblack »

jacquesmm wrote:You have some freedom there as long as:
- the prop is where it should be
- the skeg is faired to allow a good flow to the prop.
You could have two different types of cutlass bearings, the type that is bolted on a flat or a simple tubular one in a faire skeg.
Just checking on positioning the propeller where it should be in what is now a fully glassed tunnel.
- There should be at least 1.5" of tip clearance between propeller and hull, and propeller and keel shoe
- The aft end of the propeller hub should be approximately half way between stations F and G.

If this is the case, the shaft axis will be a tad different than specified, but as the stern tube is yet to be positioned, this is no big deal.

I'm going with the simple tubular cutlass option - a 1.25" OD cutlass bearing sitting in a glass fibre stern tube which will be faired into the skeg.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

jacquesmm
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by jacquesmm »

That looks fine.
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