Thanks capeman.
It is taking me about four hours to get each plank prepared and glued in.
I start by using a sharpened block plane to progressively cut a rolling bevel along the outer edge of the in-situ plank that the current plank is to overlap approximately half an inch. It’s called a rolling bevel because the required angle changes along the boat. The previously prepared MDF plank pattern is used to check how the rolling bevel is coming along. The same approach is used for the overlapping joints at the bow and stern transoms.
Then I cut out the 1/6” okume plywood plank, again using the MDF pattern as a guide. I cut both sides of the okume plank a little proud, as okume plywood does not bend and twist exactly as the MDF pattern does. The sharpened block plane is then used to shape the okume plank so that it has fair edges to the eye, and sits just right over rolling bevel of the in-situ plank and the moulds. The new plank is then masked with packing tape on its underside, except where it is to overlap with the in- situ one, and the upper faces of the in situ and new plank are taped as in the pic below.
Thickened epoxy glue is applied to the bevelled edge of the in situ plank and the bevelled sections of the transoms, the new plank is clamped into position, and squeeze out of glue is cleaned up.
Four hours per plank may seem a long time, but the upside is that there is no fibreglass taping and fairing to follow.
Got the port #3 plank glued today, using above procedure.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
