To me it already doesn't look to bad at all, very interesting hull shapeglossieblack wrote:
Don't worry Jacques, it's now been dismantled, and a serious attempt at assembling with appropriate gaps will commence next week.
ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia
- peter-curacao
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia
- Cracker Larry
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia
Peter like his oysters too, preferably with vodka and hot sauce. I've seen us do it
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose
- glossieblack
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia
Thanks for the interest blueflood and jorgepease. Pics don't convey the radical plywood contortions Jacques has achieved.
And Peter and Larry, I too am partial to a flight or two (or three+ occasionally I seem to dimly remember) of oyster shooters
Been working for the last couple of days stitching and re stitching, concentrating on getting a flat keel bottom (that's a straight edge aluminium section on the keel in the pic below), fair planking (the tunnel area is a real challenge), and gaps between all planks. Been an interesting challenge, as there is a lot of twisting in the tunnel sides and tunnel ceiling planking necessary to achieve the designed shape. Small timber wedges held in place by screws have enabled gaps to be achieved without compromising fairness. Found it necessary to slightly reduce the width of the trop chines (cutting of 10mm tapering to zero) to piece it all together. Further tweaking of gaps is required, with a number of joints needing to be opened up with a saw cut, but it should be possible to start epoxy welding an a day or so.
For the epoxy welding, is it best to use the kit supplied Gelmagic or EZ Fillet, and is it advisable to wet out the edges with the laminating epoxy first?
And Peter and Larry, I too am partial to a flight or two (or three+ occasionally I seem to dimly remember) of oyster shooters
Been working for the last couple of days stitching and re stitching, concentrating on getting a flat keel bottom (that's a straight edge aluminium section on the keel in the pic below), fair planking (the tunnel area is a real challenge), and gaps between all planks. Been an interesting challenge, as there is a lot of twisting in the tunnel sides and tunnel ceiling planking necessary to achieve the designed shape. Small timber wedges held in place by screws have enabled gaps to be achieved without compromising fairness. Found it necessary to slightly reduce the width of the trop chines (cutting of 10mm tapering to zero) to piece it all together. Further tweaking of gaps is required, with a number of joints needing to be opened up with a saw cut, but it should be possible to start epoxy welding an a day or so.
For the epoxy welding, is it best to use the kit supplied Gelmagic or EZ Fillet, and is it advisable to wet out the edges with the laminating epoxy first?
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia
HI glossieblack,
Great going From my build, I have used S3 EZ Fillet but not for general construction as it is too expensive for my taste. I am using it for cosmetic filleting only. The standard epoxy / glue mix is better I think. Never used Gelmagic...
Marc
Great going From my build, I have used S3 EZ Fillet but not for general construction as it is too expensive for my taste. I am using it for cosmetic filleting only. The standard epoxy / glue mix is better I think. Never used Gelmagic...
Marc
- topwater
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia
Use the gelmagic to glue seams , EZ fillet for fillets . No need to wet out seams if you use Gelmagic its wet
enough . I glued my whole hull together this way . If you can get to the inside of the hull and tape all the
seams with packing tape or good duct tape before hand it will save you a ton of time on the inside when
you flip the hull .
enough . I glued my whole hull together this way . If you can get to the inside of the hull and tape all the
seams with packing tape or good duct tape before hand it will save you a ton of time on the inside when
you flip the hull .
Novi 23 finally launched !
- peter-curacao
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia
I'm with you on that, did it the same way, I used Gel magic but didn't like it to much, don't know maybe it's the heat here but it thought it was to thin.blueflood wrote:HI glossieblack,
Great going From my build, I have used S3 EZ Fillet but not for general construction as it is too expensive for my taste. I am using it for cosmetic filleting only. The standard epoxy / glue mix is better I think. Never used Gelmagic...
Marc
Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia
Thank you Topwater, all that is correct.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia
wow after seeing that bottom I want to build a ST really bad............
That is a cool looking hull!!
That is a cool looking hull!!
- peter-curacao
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia
It is, it's a shame you can't see it once in the watertcason wrote:wow after seeing that bottom I want to build a ST really bad............
That is a cool looking hull!!
Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia
Yes, it is a nice shape.
I don't think anybody else successfully modeled that type of hull shape in 3D. I heard of a couple of failures but will not name them.
Atkins did not show enough information to redesign it and anyway, I blended the tunnel concept of several designs and cleaned it up a,little bit my way.
It is still a complex shape but as you can see from the pictures, it works.
It works also because this builder understands the technique: no panels pushing against each other.
It is not critical to get the bottom panel perfectly straight. Avoid hog but a little bit of rocker will not hurt, it is not a planing hull.
I don't think anybody else successfully modeled that type of hull shape in 3D. I heard of a couple of failures but will not name them.
Atkins did not show enough information to redesign it and anyway, I blended the tunnel concept of several designs and cleaned it up a,little bit my way.
It is still a complex shape but as you can see from the pictures, it works.
It works also because this builder understands the technique: no panels pushing against each other.
It is not critical to get the bottom panel perfectly straight. Avoid hog but a little bit of rocker will not hurt, it is not a planing hull.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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