ST21 'Skinnydip' build, and boating adventures, Noosa, Australia

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CaptainAB
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by CaptainAB »

JoshuaAhab wrote:Jacques,

Captain AB has a very thorough website detailing has build:

http://rhapsodyinglue.com/index.html

Apologies to Captain AB if I overstepped any boundaries in posting this info.

No Problem Joshua - All information is better shared!!

Edited by Jacques:
I split this thread in two. This one is about the Glossieblack project, the discussions about the River Belle are in a separate thread.



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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by CaptainAB »

jacquesmm wrote:The River Belle is a much larger boat and a different type of "tunnel".
If you build,one, post pictures etc.
This "River Belle" is now not far off completion. Have a look at http://www.rhapsodyinglue.com for a picture gallery and detailed description of the build.

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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by jacquesmm »

CaptainAB, is the River Belle your project?
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CaptainAB
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by CaptainAB »

jacquesmm wrote:CaptainAB, is the River Belle your project?
Yes, it is. I started in July 2008 and hope to have it in the water finally, by the end of the year - err - this year that is.....

I'm a first time builder, but I do have a good friend who is a Shipwright, which helps significantly!! The boat is currently in Port Elliot, South Australia. If anyone is interested to have a look, let me know. Or, check out the Website http://www.rhapsodyinglue.com


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glossieblack
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by glossieblack »

Congratulations on a fine looking build Captain AB. Do you know if an Atkin Rescue Minor or Shoals Runner has been built In Australia?

And thankyou Fuzz, Jacques, Ilker, Lee, Peter and Marc for your kind words re the round bow chine. I don't have a before pic Peter, but the first pic of this thread shows how the first two molds were rounded in preparation for bow modification.

Am currently putting in the hours preparing all joints for taping. Not nearly as much fun as slicing open the bow. :!:
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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glossieblack
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by glossieblack »

Seeking advice on how to fix a keel shoe to the bottom of the keel. Will say 3/8" coach screws plus sealant run up into a reinforced box keel bottom do the job, or will some form of epoxy captured bolts be required? If so, suggestions on how to execute this will be much appreciated.

The keel shoe cantilevers approximately 18" aft of the box keel, runs under the propeller, and supports the rudder shaft. It will be 1 1/2" wide and 3/8" thick 316 SS. The bottom of the box keel is 3/8" marine ply, and the design notes call for an additional internal batten above the keel shoe fixing points. It will not be possible to access the fixing points internally once the sole has been installed. The keel shoe will need to be removed each time the rudder is.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by jacquesmm »

Lag bolts on an outside "backing plate" made from several layers of ply in epoxy and glass. Something like an external keelson.
Inside, after all the overlaps, your keel will be about 1" thick if not more, plus that plate, the thickness will be sufficient for lag bolts.
Make it "sacrificial"; good thickness but no excessive layers of glass that way it will separate from the keel bottom and you can replace it in case of brutal grounding.
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Fuzz
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by Fuzz »

glossieblack wrote: It will not be possible to access the fixing points internally once the sole has been installed. The keel shoe will need to be removed each time the rudder is.
I am not sure what you have in mind for the skeg and rudder support but if you can come up with a way to not drop it very often you will be happy. One thing I have done is to bore a hole in the rudder so you can turn it and then slide the shaft through the hole when you need to remove it from the boat.
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glossieblack
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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by glossieblack »

Lag bolts they will be, thanks Jacques.

Fuzz, when withdrawing the prop shaft, how does it miss the rudder shaft in your setup, as both are on the CL axis?

Getting close to being ready to tape the joints. :D

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Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).

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Re: ST 21 Noosa Australia

Post by jacquesmm »

Fuzz wrote:. . . if you can come up with a way to not drop it very often you will be happy. One thing I have done is to bore a hole in the rudder so you can turn it and then slide the shaft through the hole when you need to remove it from the boat.
fuzz
That is very common on large boats and can be done on the ST21: a hole in the rudder filled with removable material but it is not necessary in this case. To pull the shaft, if needed, you remove the rudder. Remove the keel shoe then the two rudder shaft collars inside, slide the rudder assembly down. It is a shallow boat, no need to dig a trench or to lift.
The keel shoe can also be made from two parts bolted together. That way you don't have to remove the whole keel shoe.But again, in such a shallow hull, everything is easy to reach and how often are you going to pull the shaft?
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