OB17 - Northern Virginia

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Jeff
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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia

Post by Jeff »

csaroka, really nice work!! You are moving at a very fast pace!! Jeff

csaroka
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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia

Post by csaroka »

An update on weekend progress...

Cut the bottom and side panels and extended them with fiberglass patches on each side
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Checked my diagonals and used straps to correct warps in the cheap plywood
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Lined the center stringer with plastic and the station corners with duct tape. Laid the bottom panels on the jig to verify center alignment, and fixed the bottom panels to the transom with SS screws.
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With zipties, I anchored the side panels to the transom and connected them together at the bow. To prevent the bow from rising, I threaded a steel wire through each panel and the bow mold.
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After elevating the side panels so I could achieve flush edges at the transom, I returned to the transom, removed the zipties, and fixed the side panels edges to it with SS screws.

Starting from the bow, I stitched to the intersection with the bottom panels, leaving 1" of separation between the panels. Then alternating port and starboard, I stitched the side panels to the bottom panels, leaving 1" of separation between panels . Every meter, I progressed towards the aft, I loosely stitched the bottom panels together, leaving 3"+ of separation between panels. After reaching the intersection with the transom, I returned to the bow and tightened the zipties to .5" separation between panels and again, worked my way towards the aft, alternating port and starboard. Repeated the same process once more but tightening the zipties to the width of a nail. Note: Tightening the side panels with the bottoms panels was always in advance of tightening the bottom panels together.

I dealt with occasional overlapping panels, both side with bottom and bottom with bottom, primarily at the bow. Using a combination PVC sections to transfer the pressure and inserting nails to maintain separation, I was able to get beyond those issues.

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Used a plastic putty knife to the fill the seams with the resin and wood flour mix. After allowing it to dry overnight, I cut out the zipties and removed the nails.

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I'm going to start with a cabinet scraper and plane to remove the built-up expoxy but I'm awaiting the arrival of a 3M mask and filters before I start any sanding.

In the meantime, I've been thinking about materials for the rub rails, spray rails, sheer clamps, and skeg. Reviewing the forums, most seem to recommend fir; however, I'm not finding much fir stocked locally. Any issues using PVC trim, like Azek, for these functions? Other than that, cedar, pine, oak, walnut, and poplar seem to be the most common options.
-Charles

Jeff
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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia

Post by Jeff »

Excellent progress!!! I had thought you were away but clearly you have been hard at work on your build!!! Very clean and well organized!! Nice, Jeff

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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia

Post by pee wee »

You have done a masterful job of getting all the panels lined up, that looks great!

You mention using stainless steel screws at the transom and at the bow- are you planning to leave those screws in place?
Hank

csaroka
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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia

Post by csaroka »

Thanks! I didn't use any screws at the bow of the boat, only the transom. I had considered leaving them in the transom, which is why I used SS, but I started rounding the transom edges and bumped a few. I'm not sure that I can achieve .5" radius with them in place so I will likely pull them prior to fiberglassing the seams. The primary purpose for them was to maintain flush panel and transom edges as I stitched the panels elsewhere. Aside from that, are there any concerns with leaving them in?
-Charles

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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia

Post by Cracker Larry »

Don't leave them in. Just a later source of trouble and rot. Stainless will rust fast when encapsulated, it requires air to maintain it's properties. I always use deck screws, temporarily, to attach the sides to the transom, and remove them after I glue the transom on. Don't leave any fasteners in, anywhere.
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csaroka
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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia

Post by csaroka »

OK, thanks for that info and advice! I will certainly remove them.
-Charles

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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia

Post by csaroka »

NEED CORRECTIVE RECOMMENDATION: Last night, I proceeded with glassing the seams, followed by the hull bottom and sides. Laid two overlapping pieces of cloth from transom to bow and one piece of cloth on each side, overlapping each respective bottom cloth. Covered the complete hull with the "poor-man's peel-ply" and tried to work out any noticeable bubbles with a rubber roller and tongue depressors. Long night... Left the plastic on throughout the day and just pulled it back minutes ago. With much disappointment, many bubbles were revealed. Browsing through the forums, it sounds like I could have a lot of rework ahead of me. I'm still within the 24-hour period but its been really hot (95F) in VA today. Do I have any options for immediate corrective action? If not, what is the recommendation on how to proceed in later weeks?

Here is a summary of the process that I followed:
Dry fitting the cloth
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Pre-wetting the seams
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Applying the 6oz to the seams

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Pre-wetting remainder of hull
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Applying the 12oz cloth and plastic
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Next day....20hrs after pre-wetting the seams
Pulled back the plastic
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Most of the larger white-spots on the bow and sides (not edges) appear to be build up of either cloth or epoxy. There are some bubbles on the flat surfaces but most tend to be around the edge of the 12oz cloth. Aside from pulling the plastic back, I haven't done any sanding and there is a considerable amount of flaking that resulted from removing the plastic. I thought I had achieved a .5" radius but I suppose its possible, I had not grinded down the corners enough.
-Charles

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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia

Post by Fuzz »

Can you post some closer/larger pictures of the worse areas? Probably help others to give the best advice.
I hate this happened to you :(

csaroka
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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia

Post by csaroka »

Thanks, Fuzz. Everything seemed to be moving along so well. There are really three problem areas: (1) bubbles along the starboard chine, (2) bubbles along the keel, and (3) approx. dozen random 1"-3" bubbles on flat surfaces. The port side chine does have a few bubbles along the edge but substantially less than the starboard side.

In all of the following images, I could depress the bubble and confirm that there was actually air beneath the fiberglass. As I mentioned in the previous post, there are other areas that are white but the appear to be more so build up of either epoxy or fiber. I tried to depress those areas too but they seem solid.

Along the starboard chine:
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Along the keel:
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Additional random bubbles:
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-Charles

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