That happened to me with the PY12. I don't know what went wrong, but in the end I used 80 grit on the RO pretty ruthlessly. I ground all the suspect areas out, including most of the keel, and patched it up. PITA, but just a thing. You'd never know it to see it now and I don't have to worry about it.
Dougster
OB17 - Northern Virginia
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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Dougster is totally correct. I think you are going to need to get real friendly with your sander If you have a tool like the sonic crafter you might be able to cut a bunch of it out and save some sanding. Either way it can be fixed, just takes some time.
- cape man
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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
I didn't want to be the one who told you it had to be fixed, but it does. I'd use 60 grit, or maybe even 30 to do the rough work.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Thanks for the reassurance, Gents!
After removing the suspect area but before applying a patch, do you recommend filling the void with a wood flour mixture to level it with the surrounding fiberglass?
While reviewing your responses, the idea that came to mind was creating 4 boat-length strips from the 50" fabric roll, each 12.5" wide. Two of the strips, I would run down the keel with 4" of overlap. The other two strips, I would run one down each chine. In effect, I would have the equivalent number of layers as designed. However, my concern is the distance from the flaw to the edge of the fiberglass. What is the minimum radius that you would recommend from the edge of the suspect area to the edge of the patch?
After removing the suspect area but before applying a patch, do you recommend filling the void with a wood flour mixture to level it with the surrounding fiberglass?
While reviewing your responses, the idea that came to mind was creating 4 boat-length strips from the 50" fabric roll, each 12.5" wide. Two of the strips, I would run down the keel with 4" of overlap. The other two strips, I would run one down each chine. In effect, I would have the equivalent number of layers as designed. However, my concern is the distance from the flaw to the edge of the fiberglass. What is the minimum radius that you would recommend from the edge of the suspect area to the edge of the patch?
-Charles
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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
For what concern fiberglassing I leave the answer to others much expert then me, but for your first question yes, that's the correct way to go
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
I agree with Dougster, Fuzz and the other ones who recommend to grind it off and go over it with another layer.
Do not use the plastic sheet (peel ply), that may be the cause. It leaves no way for the heat to escape and gasses that do not escape = bubbles. That technique is fine at "normal" temperatures but not in very hot weather like what we have now.
Do not use the plastic sheet (peel ply), that may be the cause. It leaves no way for the heat to escape and gasses that do not escape = bubbles. That technique is fine at "normal" temperatures but not in very hot weather like what we have now.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Jacques-Did you see my question regarding creating 4 boat-length strips from the 50" fabric roll, each 12.5" wide? Two of the strips, I would run down the keel with 4" of overlap. The other two strips, I would run one down each chine. What is the minimum radius that you would recommend from the edge of the suspect area to the edge of the patch?
-Charles
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Sanded out the bubbles that elevated the fiberglass from the plane of the hull but after further inspection, noticed many smaller, embedded bubbles and dry areas throughout. Spent a considerable number of hours sanding the hull down to a base that I was satisfied with before making another glassing attempt. Spread the wood floor / epoxy mix to level the surface area, and sanded the hull smooth.
Gave the hull a good wipe-down, tried to blow all of the porcupine quills out of the garage, and prepped my supplies before starting the next glassing marathon.
LIBERALLY applied epoxy at all stages (wet-on-wet seams and panels). Used chip brushes for the initial application and spreading; used a squeegee with only gravitational pressure to level pools; used a fiberglass roller to destroy the bubbles; and used a syringe to fill any remaining air pockets.
Fiberglass Roller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005R ... UTF8&psc=1
Syringe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V ... UTF8&psc=1
Did not use any peel-ply or plastic this time around.
Much happier with the results. Now, for a taste of the infamous fairing process that everyone seems to love so much. If anyone has any good references with pointers bookmarked, please share the links.
Gave the hull a good wipe-down, tried to blow all of the porcupine quills out of the garage, and prepped my supplies before starting the next glassing marathon.
LIBERALLY applied epoxy at all stages (wet-on-wet seams and panels). Used chip brushes for the initial application and spreading; used a squeegee with only gravitational pressure to level pools; used a fiberglass roller to destroy the bubbles; and used a syringe to fill any remaining air pockets.
Fiberglass Roller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005R ... UTF8&psc=1
Syringe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V ... UTF8&psc=1
Did not use any peel-ply or plastic this time around.
Much happier with the results. Now, for a taste of the infamous fairing process that everyone seems to love so much. If anyone has any good references with pointers bookmarked, please share the links.
-Charles
Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
csaroka, well done!!! She is really taking shape!! On to fairing!! Jeff
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Re: OB17 - Northern Virginia
Glad to see you got your glass problem taken care of
All I can tell you about fairing is keep telling yourself sweating is good for me, sweating is good for me
All I can tell you about fairing is keep telling yourself sweating is good for me, sweating is good for me
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