Steve's FS18

[K2FS18]

You will need to add an additional 6" tape down the center line if you did your layup same as mine. Should have 4 layers (or is it 3 layers) of 12oz over the center line per Jaqc. Somewhere there is a question and answer in the boat help section.

[Dutch1]

K2,
Thanks for the info. I need to call around and see what kinds of wood I can get my hands on. I have a stupid idea banging around in my head of making a keel out of epoxy and filler materials and then attaching that to the hull. And, I was thinking about laminating different kinds of wood for the rail just for the nicer clear look. These are the dangers of me having time on my hands while the epoxy dries. . . I'm just trying to plan ahead. And, I'll go get those rollers that CL mentioned too. I'm going to get my garage HOT before I put the graphite down. How much epoxy are you using for each coat? Good to hear from you and thanks!

You will need to add an additional 6" tape down the center line if you did your layup same as mine. Should have 4 layers (or is it 3 layers) of 12oz over the center line per Jaqc. Somewhere there is a question and answer in the boat help section.

You made me go look when I saw your other post. It's three layers per side. You had it right. One 6" to tape the seam(s) and then two more of the 12oz cloth with 6" overlaps of the keel. We just overlapped the keel A LOT more than 6 inches. They show the layers on one of the drawings. I'll post later which one it is and reply.

[Dutch1]

You will need to add an additional 6" tape down the center line if you did your layup same as mine. Should have 4 layers (or is it 3 layers) of 12oz over the center line per Jaqc. Somewhere there is a question and answer in the boat help section.

You made me go look when I saw your other post. It's three layers per side. You had it right. One 6" to tape the seam(s) and then two more of the 12oz cloth with 6" overlaps of the keel. We just overlapped the keel A LOT more than 6 inches. They show the layers on one of the drawings. I'll post later which one it is and reply.

Weeelllll, I have to take that back. The lamination schedule on the plans state "keel, bow, and transom = 2 layers of biaxial tape each side" even though the instructions don't say ANYTHING about it so yes, I will have to add another layer to the keel. The image above the lamination schedule doesn't show the tape and I thought the two layers as shown was sufficient. I missed the word "tape" in that instruction and I don't know what "each side" has to do with the bow or keel. I read it as inside and outside the hull as per the above image on the plans. I just thought I was done fiberglassing the hull and now I have to sand it before I put those extra layers down. So I should have read everything 10 times instead of 9. Incredibly frustrated with the instructions/plans right now. So much for wet on wet all the way through. At least I'll know that the transom and keel should be double taped on the next build.

Right now I have:
Tape - 1 layer of tape on all seams overlapping other seams on the bow and transom by at least 6 inches
Wide fabric - 2 layers over the hull with about 12" overlap over the keel and large overlaps on the sides of the transom and the bow. The bow has 5 layers with the overlaps. The sides of the transom has three layers total due to the overlaps (this includes one layer of tape).

The bottom and sides of the transom has one layer of tape and two layers of fabric. So I think I'll have to add one more section of tape to the bottom and sides of the transom and one more to the keel to make it 4 layers. The middle (keel) will get another layer when I install the keel for a total of 5 layers.

[Fishwater]

Based on the previous pic, I think you're good. Two overlapped 6" tape on every seem inside and out. Then the 12oz fabric, one layer inside and out. I think you're good.

Nice glass work btw.

[tcason]

from god's mouth to your ears.........................

I tipped my epoxy after rolling


Cracker Larry graphite finish

Rule number 1. Work when it is as hot as possible. I'm not kidding. When I put the first coats of graphite on this boat it was still cool weather and no matter what I did, I got lumps, clumps and bubbles. Have you ever tried to stir powdered coffee creamer into cold coffee? It doesn't hardly dissolve. Stir it into warm coffee and it instantly dissolves. Same for the graphite powder. The last coats were done in the middle of the day, outside temp was about 104, the epoxy temp was near 100. The powder mixes completely and it flows out like water. In the heat of the day the epoxy obviously cures fast, so you have to work fast. This is a big advantage because the faster it cures, the less time it has to accumulate bugs, dust, dog hair and other trash.


Rule 2. Sift the graphite twice, but don't turn the crank or squeeze the handle on the sifter mechanism, just shake the sifter lightly and collect what passes through easily. Discard the rest. This boat needs 9 ounces of mixed epoxy for a full coat, to that I add 3 ounces (volume) of sifted powder.

Rule 3. Mix the resin and hardener completely before adding the graphite, stir it very good, then let it sit a minute before using. This will let any chunks settle to the bottom of the cup. Pour it out slowly and evenly over the entire bottom of the boat, but don't pour out the last 1/2 ounce or so in the bottom of the cup. This is where the uglies live, and they are best left in the cup

Rule 4. Do not use a foam roller, it induces bubbles and usually foam fragments too. I got the best results using a 3/8 nap roller made for glossy acrylic latex kitchen and bath paint. Premium grade, from Lowes. Use a full size roller, the smaller ones leave a lot of roller marks, the wide ones not so much. Roll it out completely in every direction with a lot of pressure, then roll it lightly in one direction only to remove the roller edge lines and smooth it all out.

Rule 5. Roll it out very thin and use multiple coats. I wet sanded with 120 grit between each coat, then before the last coat I scrubbed with a Scotchbrite pad and water. You do not want to dry sand this stuff

[K2FS18]

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61463

This is the link to my question to Jacq about the lamination schedule.

"FS18 glass laminating schedule", currently on page 4 of the "Power Boats" tab.

[Dutch1]

Thanks Fishawater, TCASON, and K2. I went ahead and sanded the keel all the way to the bow and the transom bottom and sides last night. Some 40grit and my frustration made that a pretty quick job. Then I added another layer of tape. It will be a pita to fair now... Having the wide fabric over the tape made it a smoother transition point. The epoxy had cured to the point that it could be sanded. I think it was overkill but I'm not a marine engineer so I have to trust the plans.

I've learned to watch the cups I mixed the epoxy in to really know when it has cured. Since I'm reusing quart containers I clean them out when the epoxy cures. It comes out in one piece. If I check it and the container still bends without popping the epoxy loose I know the boat isn't cured yet either and I give it another day.

[Dutch1]

Evening everyone. I hope your week is going well.

I finished up sanding tonight in preparation for fairing. I have a 1/8" gap for about two ft. on the bottom about 2ft. from the transom just before a splice. The only other area that has me scratching my head is on one side by the transom there is a larger gap from the side to the corner if I place a level (straight edge) on it. I guess the fiberglass is higher on that corner and I'll have to build it up with fairing. I spent some time with the shop vac cleaning up the dust on the hull and now I'm not sure what I should do next. I've got a few questions before I continue.

1. Should I wash the hull to clean off all of the fine dust or does it matter before I fair?
2. For future reference, can I wash the hull now that it has been sanded?
3. I'm going to install a cypress keel. Should I do that and fiberglass it before I fair?
4. Should I install the rub rail prior to fairing? My thinking is it will be a better bond directly to the hull instead of over/through fairing.
5. What is the best way to fill in that 1/8" gap on the bottom. Unfortunately it is right in the middle. Adding the keel will definitely fix it and I could fair from that point.

If I should put some of these questions somewhere else in the forum please let me know.

I have a Toys for Tots event this weekend so I won't be able to work on it at all. My whole weekend will be dedicated to the event and it's worth it to me to lose the weekend on the build. Whatever I can get done in the next few days will be it until Monday. The hull will have plenty of time to dry IF you recommend me washing it before continuing.

Thanks for the help!

[K2FS18]

A few answers maybe, I am by no means an expert in this type of stuff.

I installed the keel before I faired. I glassed it down with 12oz tape.

I also installed the rub rails before I faired. But I also flipped the boat and installed all the interior stuff other than upper decks then I flipped her back over to fair. I figured that would definetly (sp???) keep the haul locked into place and provide a haul that doesn't move after I faired. Plus, I needed a break from working on the bottom and wanted to move on to the good stuff....layout.

All my sanding tools are hooked into the dust system so I have very little dust to deal with. I typically shop vac and then wipe with a rag and alcohol.

I used way more QuickFair than needed. Had to reorder twice. Another member informed me to just mix wood flour to fill those low spots first, then QuickFair. That worked great. Don't rush this part and don't try to get too much filled in one pass. My base lines for fill was the hard chine edge and the joint from the keel. I started laying down QF from hard edge to about half way up tape joint on keel. Pulling a straight edge from the rear working forward to bow along the flat bottom section. Next, after a light sanding to knock off ridges, I pulled same direction, but this time I worked from edge to closer the the keel/haul joint. Sand to knock off ridges then pulled from keel to hard edge. Sand to remove ridges and skim coat. You will have a low area on the rear section from the tape from the transom, chine and keel. I filled this area first in multiple steps working in both directions so that I had a good starting point. I don't believe that I sanded very much QF off and I have a supper flat smooth bottom. I am waiting on a break in the wet cold weather to apply my last coat of graphite epoxy then I will QF the sides and paint.

[seaslug]

As K2 said, no need to wash down the hull. You can wipe down with Alcohol or Lacquer thinner, but it isn't necessary, the little bit of fine sanding dust will just be absorbed into the next epoxy you apply....I also would fair the bottom before adding the skeg, and the best way to fair the bottom is to make a rigid long board, longer than the distance from the keel to the chine, and those 2 points are your guides to sanding it nice and flat. I buy rolls of 3" wide sticky back sandpaper, and for the initial fairing a heavy grit like 36-40 will really mow down some epoxy fast....Don't worry about the 1/8" gap, that's actually perfect, and just fill with any thickened structural epoxy like EZ Fillet, or epoxy with filler you add yourself, but not a fairing filler. Also, good Idea to use 2" masking tape under the gaps so the epoxy doesn't push through and create more work on the back side of whatever you're gluing. Being careful, and working as neatly as possible saves a lot of hideous sanding. I learned a lot on my first build, and on the FS14 LS I just finished today, after glassing the bottom I made only 1 very thorough and carefully applied layer of fairing and after sanding was 95% finished with only a few minor low spots to fill. I had the bottom faired and sanded in probably 6 hours total....Good for you for doing the Toy for Tots, I'm 62 years young, can you send me a toy? Mike