OD18 - NH

[Aripeka Angler]

Nice work! I like shark eyes as well.
I used these on my son’s fs18. Reasonably priced, not bulky, best quality, great product.
The whitecap adapter plate illustrates difference in size.

http://www.livorsi.com/catalog/led.htm

Thanks, I like the units you linked to but they are $300 with shipping. I guess I didn't expect that as I paid way less for the ones on my airplane wings. For that price I would expect them to do the navigating for me Looks like I'm going to have to save up a little.

I picked them up on ebay for about $50 per light, totally worth every penny.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Livorsi-marine ... SwTyxfbmJR

[Jeff]

Really nice work!!!! Jeff

[Fair WX Pilot]

Beautiful work! I just read through the entire thread and can’t wait for more. I mean, using a mill to drill outboard mounting holes, using 1-2-3 blocks for marking edges, etc. I love it. As a former pilot and current machinist this build just makes me happy.

Side note: Don’t expect this kinda work on my builds! One thing I enjoy about woodworking is being able to relax and stop thinking “in tens” (ten thousandths of an inch)


Keep it up!
George

Hi George, great to meet a kindred spirit in over cooking things Glad you're enjoying my build thread. I may not take any records for the best dory but I'm certainly wining the "taking the longest to build it" title .

Cheers.

[Fair WX Pilot]

Nice work! I like shark eyes as well.
I used these on my son’s fs18. Reasonably priced, not bulky, best quality, great product.
The whitecap adapter plate illustrates difference in size.

http://www.livorsi.com/catalog/led.htm

Thanks, I like the units you linked to but they are $300 with shipping. I guess I didn't expect that as I paid way less for the ones on my airplane wings. For that price I would expect them to do the navigating for me Looks like I'm going to have to save up a little.

I picked them up on ebay for about $50 per light, totally worth every penny.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Livorsi-marine ... SwTyxfbmJR

Thanks for helping find these AA. I just ordered a pair.

[gstanfield]

Beautiful work! I just read through the entire thread and can’t wait for more. I mean, using a mill to drill outboard mounting holes, using 1-2-3 blocks for marking edges, etc. I love it. As a former pilot and current machinist this build just makes me happy.

Side note: Don’t expect this kinda work on my builds! One thing I enjoy about woodworking is being able to relax and stop thinking “in tens” (ten thousandths of an inch)


Keep it up!
George

Hi George, great to meet a kindred spirit in over cooking things Glad you're enjoying my build thread. I may not take any records for the best dory but I'm certainly wining the "taking the longest to build it" title .

Cheers.

I doubt you're setting any records for time either. I started a cedar strip canoe and got sidetracked and didn't finish it for six years and that's a measly canoe!

[Fair WX Pilot]

So I left this with everything dry fitted and ready to glue. I got the vent for the fuel tank bay as it needs one at the top and another at the bottom.


Marking out the bottom vent that doubles as the compartment drain.


A picture for Fuzz, showing that I do sometimes make a mess.


Vent hole cut out ready to fill.


I did a test cut into a couple of scrap pieces to check out the jig. All went well and its time to try to not ruin the doors


The pucker factor was high here as I didn't want to ruin my work by miss cutting a hinge pocket.





That went well but I have already worked out that I made a mistake. I intend to cover these doors with 4oz cloth for wear resistance which may make the pockets to deep. I cut them a little on the shallow side so I may get away with it. It's an easy fix if they turn out too deep. Lesson learned for the other doors.

[Browndog]

Don’t think you’ll have a problem with the hinge depth.

Even with the 4 oz cloth you’ll probably be covering everything including the hinge pockets with multiple coats of epoxy, primer and paint.

Since the hinge pockets are the low point of the panels they tend to collect a little more of the epoxy, primer and paint which should even everything out.

Looking good. Keep it up!

[Fair WX Pilot]

I covered the offcut that I cut out of the fuel tank compartment upper vent in packing tape and reinserted it as a plug to mold the resin around.


I made backing pieces for the hatch lids to give enough depth for the screws to sit in.



Laid everything out on a poly sheet to prime.


I drilled the hinge screw holes oversize after gluing the backers in place. Filling holes in both the backer and the hatch lid should make it stronger.



Put the tape on the hinge pocket side to save having to do to much cleanup in the pocket where I may slip and damage the edges.


Two backers on the anchor locker bulkhead to allow the anchor strap to be fitted.


Going to be a good amount of cleanup going on here


Filleted and glassed the anchor chocks.


Poured resin and wood flour into the tank compartment vent.


Glued in the deck butt blocks. Did a good double check of these as it wouldn't have been the first time I glued one block out of line .

[Fair WX Pilot]

Don’t think you’ll have a problem with the hinge depth.

Even with the 4 oz cloth you’ll probably be covering everything including the hinge pockets with multiple coats of epoxy, primer and paint.

Since the hinge pockets are the low point of the panels they tend to collect a little more of the epoxy, primer and paint which should even everything out.

Looking good. Keep it up!

That's what I was thinking. I am fairly confident that I can always refit the jig and clean up the edges if needed. Just kicking myself for not thinking of it before.

[VT_Jeff]

Really inspiring work, Alan! Are those going to be wet or dry hatches?