Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

[Jsheaffer]

[Jsheaffer]

[jacquesmm]

Yes please, post pictures.

Frame A and the bow mold must lone up at the bow/keel side. Do not try to line up any part of the bow mold. It should not sit flush on the strongbacks or on anything else. Only the tip of A matters.

Stringers and transom must be flush. When you run a straight edge on the frames/molds, the rear edge of the transom must be lined up.
The goal is to have a straight bottom, nothing should stick out.

Notches are sometimes tight, you may have to open them with a rasp or a grinder.

[Jsheaffer]

[jacquesmm]

We posted at the same time, I see your pictures now.
It looks really good. There should have been a little more slack in the stitches at the bow and that would have moved the hull skin panels back a little to cover the transom but it is really good the way it is.

For those who wonder why they see only side kerfed, that is because the kerfs (slits) on the other panels are on the inside.
It bends just as well and saves a sheet of plywood.

[Jsheaffer]

The a frame peaking out.

[Jsheaffer]

Ok so jacques in your opinipn do i need realign the transom so that the hull skin completely covers it or am i good to go. I can unscrew and either try banging it in or maybe stitch it in. I think problem is i laid the entire hull about 3quarters of an inch too far forward. Argh. Ill prob have to lift the entire thing of the jig to fix the bow mold so that it rests properly on the a frame.

[Jsheaffer]

I know this last bit is kind of elementary. I was going to start tabbing between the zip ties until i realized the issue with the bow mold and transom. When i do should i mix the epoxy with wood filler to make the putty or just use straight epoxy. Seems like i have seen it both ways.

[jacquesmm]

Ok so jacques in your opinipn do i need realign the transom so that the hull skin completely covers it or am i good to go. I can unscrew and either try banging it in or maybe stitch it in. I think problem is i laid the entire hull about 3quarters of an inch too far forward. Argh. Ill prob have to lift the entire thing of the jig to fix the bow mold so that it rests properly on the a frame.

Not worth the troubles. The hull shape is as designed and the transom will be just as strong the way it is.

When you say frame A sticking out, do you mean sticking out at the sheer? I see that.
It's the hull panels pushing on it. I don't see much radius in that rounded chine. I think that is the problem. If you round it more, the frame will be able to go up 1".
You do that but cutting through the kerfs, then the panels will take a rounder shape and A can go up.
Look at other pictures of rounded chines, for example in the Jetabout thread. We are not shy about cutting if we want a nice radius,
You decide if you like the chine radius the way it is or want more.
If you want more, grab that jig saw and cut through the kerfs.

PS: that will be the last post for today. It's Saturday and my wife wants my attention for dinner . . .

[Jsheaffer]

Disregard my last post. I epoxy glued the seams yesterday with the stuff in the kit. I am definitely not a detail guy when it comes to this kind of thing. I glued the seams and transom (but not he stringers) yesterday andwill cut the zips tonight. I tend to rush projects like this so it got messy... Nothing a bit of sanding wont fix. Im already resigned to ordering more epoxy and whatnot after flipping the boat. Next time I will get this right Ill post pics this evening. Plan is to cut zips, reeopxy seams, tape this week and throw a fiberglass party on Saturday.!!