FS18 Straight Sheer, Round Chine

[Capt UB]

Not fair.....

You need to build just one boat outside or at lest in an open carport!!!

And you have to wait 20 hours before you can take anything of the shelves that you ran out of!


Thought this was a new thread.... Still.....

[Jaysen]

And he should have to work with the CNC miscutting things with a 1/2” variability.

[Capt UB]

And he should have to work with the CNC miscutting things with a 1/2” variability.

My next boat, I want to see what is being cut out (on paper).
I wish I had on this FS14 build.
The aft deck hatch cutout is way too big for what I want to do.
And the fore deck opening I did not need cut. But all is good.
She is looking better each week.
I do like the FS18, just too big for my carport!
Maybe, something in the 16 foot range next year.

[Eric1]

Good work Reid!

[pee wee]

I was surprised to see how many pieces it took to do the rub rail. Two sides, two layers, but still . . . and counterintuitive that a straight sheer boat requires curved cuts for the rub rail pieces!

Why did you decide to laminate the pieces off the boat first, seems like you will fight to bend them more?

[Reid]

I was surprised to see how many pieces it took to do the rub rail. Two sides, two layers, but still . . . and counterintuitive that a straight sheer boat requires curved cuts for the rub rail pieces!

Why did you decide to laminate the pieces off the boat first, seems like you will fight to bend them more?

Hank,

With the boat being 18' in length and the plywood being 8' in length it had to be done with two layers (first layer being 3 pieces and the second layer being 4 pieces). By doing this I avoid any flat spots and get a true/consistent curve in the rub rail. Also, even though this is the "Straight Sheer" FS18, there is still some slight camber. If I were to use straight cut pieces then I would have had to possibly fill some gaps once the rail was installed. Seaslug had this issue when he put the Maple rub rail on his FS14_LS. With the pieces only being 6mm and cut from Okoume, I won't have any issue bending the rub rail once the two layers are glued up. I would rather have the rub rail be on the stiffer side anyway so it helps hold the hull shape.

Reid

[Jaysen]

I would rather have the rub rail be on the stiffer side anyway so it helps hold the hull shape.

This. I wish I knew this. I did a 3 layer glue up "in place" and while she is stiffer than just the 1/4" hull, you can still see the sides flex when pressed (or hit by dock piling)(or hit by oysters)(or hit by beach rollers)(or hit by my head). I think the glue up off hull for a thin rail is a great idea.

[Capt UB]

I would rather have the rub rail be on the stiffer side anyway so it helps hold the hull shape.

This. I wish I knew this. I did a 3 layer glue up "in place" and while she is stiffer than just the 1/4" hull, you can still see the sides flex when pressed (or hit by dock piling)(or hit by oysters)(or hit by beach rollers)(or hit by my head). I think the glue up off hull for a thin rail is a great idea.

I found .25" x 1.50" x 16' pine lattice, did one layer at a time, total of 3 layers. The back (aft section) on one side did not bend well, kinda flat... I thought too many spring clamps? I thought is would be best if I use long pieces instead of small pieces... Live and learn!

[Jaysen]

Not too sure "too many clamps" would do that as much as an uneven grain in one of the layers. I used 3 layers of .25 starting ripped form 8' ply. 8+4.25, 6.125+6.125, 4.25+8 if I recall the dimensions. I ran into flats with some strips not bending but found that putting them on the other side or flipping them over made everything happier. If I were to do it again I would cut the strips curved, then lam them off the hull. I would intentionally over arch to create tension and add stiffness. Id also consider steaming some real wood too. Just seems like the "right thing" but is just more work than I'm likely to sign up for.

[TomW1]

Reid, where are the pictures, you of all people should know we want pictures.

Tom