Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Thu Apr 06, 2017 11:35 am**

Well we have finally begun our project build here at the Boat Builder Central warehouse. We chose to go with one of our most popular designs, the FS18. We chose to go with the Straight Sheer and Rounded Chine option. Also, and I'm sure this is no surprise, we went with the CNC kit cut from Okoume BS1088 6mm and 9mm. The goal for this boat would be to use it in our travels to boat shows and, of course, fish the heck out of it!!! You will notice some slight differences that the CNC kit has from cutting the plywood by hand. For example, the puzzle joints made joining the pieces for the hull panels extremely easy. It is time to start the stitching process so I will talk with you soon.

Imgur Album

Posted: **Thu Apr 06, 2017 5:08 pm**

Good deal! We need somebody else to razz

Posted: **Thu Apr 06, 2017 5:30 pm**

At least you won't run out of epoxy or fiberglass!

Posted: **Thu Apr 06, 2017 11:03 pm**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 06, 2017 5:30 pm At least you won't run out of epoxy or fiberglass!

Or Quickfair!

Posted: **Fri Apr 07, 2017 3:23 pm**

Bet his delivery is not any faster than mine!

(That's a compliment, not a complaint...)

Like Fuzz...good to have someone else to razz!

Posted: **Sat Apr 08, 2017 8:25 pm**

It's not fair! You have an unfair advantage, and I don't mean the CNC kit, or the unlimited supplies at you disposal, but the fact you don't have to search all over your garage and backyard junk pile to find enough cement blocks, old car batteries, rusty paint cans, and buckets of water to weigh down your panel glue ups......I'm also glad you live 200 miles south of my fishing grounds, because I've become accustomed to fishing my local flats all alone, and another FS18 sneaking up on me is just unacceptable.....Reid, make sure you post pictures of the CNC cut bow section, I'm curious to see how the panels look. I'm psyched you're finally able to get started. The sanding begins, all too soon my friend. Mike

Posted: **Thu Apr 13, 2017 3:06 pm**

Made some good headway on the FS18 this week. I want to give a big Thank You to Seaslug for the tips and advice he gave me before I started this project. His advise about making sure Station A was at the end of the strongback was a great suggestion. This build has already been an exercise in patience, and I haven't even got to fairing yet!!! You can see from the photos below that I initially stitched from the transom forward and used some ratchet straps over Stations B and A to aid in shaping the bow strips. After I had the shape "roughed in" I started drilling all my additional stitch holes and used some small zip ties in order to keep the holes small. One tip to pass on to future builders of this design is to make sure you have enough space between the bow strips to allow the pieces to come together. As I began to stitch the strips into place I had to trim the strips with my utility knife to keep them from binding. I also sanded the ends of the hull panels and strips where they meet up at the bow. I gave them a kind of miter cut in order to facilitate a nicer fit.

Posted: **Thu Apr 13, 2017 3:45 pm**

Too cool! Love the porcupine look!

Posted: **Thu Apr 13, 2017 3:53 pm**

Very smooth Reid.

Posted: **Thu Apr 13, 2017 4:16 pm**

cape man wrote: ↑Thu Apr 13, 2017 3:45 pm Too cool! Love the porcupine look!

Stole the words out of my mouth!!

Posted: **Thu Apr 13, 2017 4:28 pm**

cape man wrote: ↑Thu Apr 13, 2017 3:45 pm Too cool! Love the porcupine look!

I agree, I think that may cause a drag problem on the water though!

Posted: **Thu Apr 13, 2017 7:58 pm**

It's looking good Reid!

Posted: **Thu Apr 13, 2017 9:48 pm**

You did a great job on the stitching, so you're off to a good start. You should brace the legs on the strong back. I would run long 2x4's along the bottom tying the legs together, as well as port to starboard, than some diagonal bracing. The hull doesn't weigh anything now, but believe me, when you get further along, 250-350 pounds is more than you think and will wrack the hell out of a poorly braced platform, especially if you're going to be rolling it around. Mike

Posted: **Fri Apr 14, 2017 12:38 pm**

seaslug wrote: ↑Thu Apr 13, 2017 9:48 pm You did a great job on the stitching, so you're off to a good start. You should brace the legs on the strong back. I would run long 2x4's along the bottom tying the legs together, as well as port to starboard, than some diagonal bracing. The hull doesn't weigh anything now, but believe me, when you get further along, 250-350 pounds is more than you think and will wrack the hell out of a poorly braced platform, especially if you're going to be rolling it around. Mike

Mike,
I thought about bracing the legs when I added them on to the strongback. This was an old strongback that Jacques had lying around the shop. I just happened to work perfectly for this build and I added legs to it. I just got done with the masking tape on the inside hull and not having braces in way made it easier to get under there. I think I will brace the legs once the outside of the hull is completed and we are ready to flip. Thanks again!!!

Posted: **Fri Apr 14, 2017 7:47 pm**

Looking good Reid!

Posted: **Mon Apr 17, 2017 4:28 pm**

Thank you everyone for the positive feedback!!!
Today I finished up the epoxy glue welds in between the zip ties. Next I will cut out the zip ties and finish off the fillets. I will have a little work to do on the chine and bow tip to get that nice and smooth and ready for glass. I will also be working to bow tip to add a flat spot for my bow eye. All of my fillets will be quarter rounded in order for the glass to lay down without any air pockets. Once the glassing is done I will go back in with fairing compound and make the edges sharp again.

Posted: **Mon Apr 17, 2017 4:51 pm**

http://i.imgur.com/rgAXqIm.jpg?1 A porcupine!

Really good work!!!

Posted: **Mon Apr 17, 2017 5:10 pm**

Looks great Reid!

Posted: **Wed Apr 19, 2017 12:58 pm**

Today I was able to get the seams completely filled with fillets. Prior to filling in the gaps where the zip ties were, I did some sanding. I did a little quarter round sanding where the bottom panels and the side panels meet towards the transom so I can ensure a good quarter round when tape and cloth get laid down. I also did some sanding on the rounded chine in order to give the chine a nice smooth round transition for when cloth goes on. I figure that the more work I put into getting the shape right now, the more work I will save myself later when it comes to fairing. I mixed up more wood flour and MarinEpoxy and filled the rest of the gaps. I also used it as kind of a "Bondo" for making the rounded chine nice and smooth. Once this sets up I will come back with my sander (60 grit) and sand out any imperfections. Very close to getting some tape down on the seams!!!

Posted: **Wed Apr 19, 2017 1:35 pm**

Nice work Reid!

Posted: **Wed Apr 19, 2017 7:51 pm**

Looks great man! You are flying!

Posted: **Wed Apr 19, 2017 9:54 pm**

Looking good Reid! How did you tape under the bow part so that excess PB wouldn't fall through? (Since there are so many crevices)

Posted: **Wed Apr 19, 2017 10:22 pm**

You're doing a great job so far, and looks a lot better than mine did at this stage. The CNC cut bow section went together a lot better than mine, and from looking at the earlier pictures I could see with the CNC kit the gaps between the long strips are a lot wider than what mine were cutting with a jigsaw. The jig saw blade doesn't create a wide enough kerf, so I really struggled with the entire bow with the strips binding against each other, and having to do a lot of trimming with a multi tool and jig saw as I tightened the zip ties. It required a lot more fairing than yours will need. Nice job. Mike

Posted: **Wed Apr 19, 2017 11:11 pm**

Really nice!

Posted: **Thu Apr 20, 2017 12:05 pm**

Could someone give a brief summary of how you create the rounded chine for idiots like me? Im guessing you round the edge of the frame closest to the bow and then cut strips from the bottom and side panels....... ( ??? )

Posted: **Thu Apr 20, 2017 12:57 pm**

poleposition wrote: ↑Thu Apr 20, 2017 12:05 pm Could someone give a brief summary of how you create the rounded chine for idiots like me? Im guessing you round the edge of the frame closest to the bow and then cut strips from the bottom and side panels....... ( ??? )

Poleposition,

Being in the middle of building the FS18 "round chine" option, I will tell you the differences between this version and the hard chine.
Starting with the frames: Frames A and B (the two frames closest to the bow) are cut slightly different than the hard chine option. The "chine" edge of each frame has a radius cut instead of a hard edge. The picture below shows this.

As far as the hull panels are concerned, there are slits cut into both the bottom hull panels and the side hull panels. On the FS18, these cuts begin around Station/Frame C (third station back from the bow). As you can see from the picture below the number of slits increases as you get closer to the bow in order to accommodate for the increased curve as you near the bow. One thing to note, when you are making a rounded chine you need to remove some of the material in between the slits. We made our cuts with a 1/4" router bit on our CNC machine. If you don't remove some of the material the slits won't come together around the rounded frames.

I hope this helps!!
-Reid

Posted: **Thu Apr 20, 2017 1:44 pm**

^
Many thanks, Reid---that was the info I was looking for. I meant to add in the previous post that the boat looks great and am looking forward to following your build till completion.

Posted: **Thu Apr 20, 2017 2:32 pm**

Thank you, Poleposition!!! This is definitely a fun project and can't wait till I get to splash her!!

-Reid

Posted: **Thu Apr 20, 2017 8:38 pm**

Hey Reid, I know we've talked about the chine cuts in the plywood, but until now I wasn't aware that you guys cut the slits with a 1/4" router bit. For the builders that do not purchase the CNC cut kit, it would be very helpful to include in the plans a notation to cut the strips with a wide gap. I had an awful time shaping the bow section because I used a thin kerfed jig saw blade for the cuts. It was the hardest part of the build, and looking at your pictures I can see how nicely yours came together. If I had known beforehand, I would have avoided about 20 hours of extra work. Mike

Posted: **Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:19 pm**

SeaSlug, really good point!! I will ensure we add that that input to the building notes!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Apr 26, 2017 12:59 pm**

fishgitr wrote: ↑Wed Apr 19, 2017 9:54 pm Looking good Reid! How did you tape under the bow part so that excess PB wouldn't fall through? (Since there are so many crevices)

Fishgitr,
Thanks!
I just used some 3M painters tape and crawled under the bow. I had built the strongback approx 2' off of the ground for the ease of working under it. These were all great suggestions that I got from Seaslug.
-Reid

Posted: **Wed Apr 26, 2017 1:07 pm**

seaslug wrote: ↑Thu Apr 20, 2017 8:38 pm Hey Reid, I know we've talked about the chine cuts in the plywood, but until now I wasn't aware that you guys cut the slits with a 1/4" router bit. For the builders that do not purchase the CNC cut kit, it would be very helpful to include in the plans a notation to cut the strips with a wide gap. I had an awful time shaping the bow section because I used a thin kerfed jig saw blade for the cuts. It was the hardest part of the build, and looking at your pictures I can see how nicely yours came together. If I had known beforehand, I would have avoided about 20 hours of extra work. Mike

Seaslug,

If it makes you feel any better, when we cut the chine cuts with the CNC we had the machine set to only cut 2/3 of the way thru (for packing/shipping purposes) and finished the cut with small had saw. This meant that when I realized that I needed the full 1/4" width removed in order to make it come together I had to shave each strip with my utility knife. (pretty sure this is how carpel tunnel begins). But definitely good suggestions for the building notes. Talk to you soon!
-Reid

Posted: **Wed Apr 26, 2017 2:07 pm**

seaslug wrote: ↑Thu Apr 20, 2017 8:38 pm Hey Reid, I know we've talked about the chine cuts in the plywood, but until now I wasn't aware that you guys cut the slits with a 1/4" router bit. For the builders that do not purchase the CNC cut kit, it would be very helpful to include in the plans a notation to cut the strips with a wide gap. I had an awful time shaping the bow section because I used a thin kerfed jig saw blade for the cuts. It was the hardest part of the build, and looking at your pictures I can see how nicely yours came together. If I had known beforehand, I would have avoided about 20 hours of extra work. Mike

Yes, we need that note.
The length of the edge of a station on the rounded chine is shorter than the length of the hard chine version. In other words, that curve is shorter than the two straight line by 1 or 2" depending on how close to the bow you are.
With the CNC machine, that is taken care off automatically by 6 to 8 cuts of a 1/4" wide but when cutting with a jig saw, the station curve is too long.

Posted: **Wed May 03, 2017 10:20 am**

Can you bolt 2 circular saw blades together to make that cut?, maybe an arbor spacers required ? just a thought...

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 11:37 am**

bajabugs wrote: ↑Wed May 03, 2017 10:20 am Can you bolt 2 circular saw blades together to make that cut?, maybe an arbor spacers required ? just a thought...

Bajabugs,
The issue with putting two circular saw blades together is that the cuts aren't straight. You would be better off taking it really slow with a router or with a jig saw. A fine blade hand saw would work well also.

Reid

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 11:58 am**

Getting the boat ready for glass finally!! We will be having a short break from the 85+ degree temps. this weekend, going to dip down to the mid 60's on Saturday morning!!! (Don't say anything FUZZ!!!) I have the 12 oz., 6" biax tape cut for the keel (2 strips overlapping by a few inches.), the chines, and the transom. I have cut the 12 oz. biax fiberglass as well. All the tape and cloth will be rolled up on individual tubes to facilitate in the lay up. The plan is to do everything wet on wet with the last layer being a layer of fairing compound. I have also made a skeg for the keel. It is made from a polyurethane foam that has great compression strength (not sure exactly what it is, it was a sample that we had laying around the shop). It is 1.5" wide, 3/4" tall, and 4' long. I will put it about 18" from the transom so that it won't interfere with the prop and cause any cavitation.
Enjoy the pics, hopefully the next post on Monday will be with the hull fully glassed!

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 12:58 pm**

Is it ok to tell you it is looking really good

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 1:09 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Thu May 04, 2017 12:58 pm Is it ok to tell you it is looking really good

Absolutely!!! I will take that compliment. I just figured I was setting myself up for a comment on how weak us south Floridians are when it comes to the cold weather.

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 2:56 pm**

sad to see your results - first I have seen that happen

looks like KIWI wants you to prep with 100 grit............

see link
http://www.pyiinc.com/KiwiGrip/applyingkiwigrip.html

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 3:42 pm**

Reid wrote: ↑Thu May 04, 2017 1:09 pm Absolutely!!! I will take that compliment. I just figured I was setting myself up for a comment on how weak us south Floridians are when it comes to the cold weather.

Not me

Heck if it was 85f I would be laying in front of an air conditioner begging for mercy

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 5:31 pm**

Reid,
Nice looking cuts on the glass

You have a great plan for the layup!
I'd snag a helper if you have one available. Also, pizza and beer make a great finish to big layup job

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 5:54 pm**

Looking good!

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 6:16 pm**

bajabugs wrote: ↑Wed May 03, 2017 10:20 am Can you bolt 2 circular saw blades together to make that cut?, maybe an arbor spacers required ? just a thought...

Actually, this will work if you follow a couple of important steps.
1) Make sure that the arbor or arbor sleeve is big enough to safely accept two blades and a spacer.
2) Stagger the teeth on the blades so that they are not damaged when you tighten up the arbor nut or bolt.
3) Set the saw depth so that the blade only cuts through the ply by a 1/4" or so. This is important, if you set the depth correctly you can almost cut circles with a circular saw. The thinner the ply, the easier it is to cut arcs and curves with a circular saw.
4) If you can put a smaller diameter blade set on your saw, you can even cut a tighter curve or arc. Example, 6" blades on a
7-1/4" saw.
What you describe is basically a textbook dado blade setup. We use this method in our shop mostly with stationary equipment but we do occasionally put two blades on a circular saw. It's actually safer than trying to freehand a curve with a high speed router.
To do a safe, proper job of cutting a curve with a router- you really need to be using a jig of the shape you are cutting and a router base template guide.
I'm not a big fan of jig saws, they tend to do more harm than good.

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 8:12 pm**

If I had known prior to cutting the bow section on my FS18 that a wider cut was nessecary I would have definitely used the stacked blade technique with a circular saw as opposed to a jig saw. That being said, a jig saw is one my favorite and most utilized power tools, but if you're going to own a jig saw, buy the best. The Bosch is absolutely one of the finest tools ever built, and I've been using mine commercially for over 17 years, and it runs as good as the day I bought it. They run as smooth as a sewing machine, are variable speed, and vibration free.

Posted: **Thu May 04, 2017 9:06 pm**

Mike, I'm not trying to discount the value of a jigsaw. We have more than a half dozen of them which include Bosch, Porter Cable and Dewalt.
We use them every almost every day in our business. Mostly hacking oval sink holes in plastic laminate vanity countertops.
They do tend to be more destructive than a router or a circular saw when cross cutting a slot in plywood.
All of these tips are relative I suppose, we all have to figure out what works the best for us

Posted: **Fri May 05, 2017 6:11 am**

I thought I new about this trick. ???Never even conceived of the idea to use two or more stacked blades on a skill saw. I have cut circles on a table saw by using a jig to hold the center part of the radius. Then adjust the height of the blade as you spin the plywood around.
I cut inside radius on some high density foam on a table saw when I made 3" inside radius when making tunnel forms on XF @0 and PH 15.Make an angle guide at a 45 deg. Use it like the fence. Take the main fence off. You have to play with the angle until it falls center of the piece. I used 4" widw foam and cut it at a 45 deg all the way through. 3 ft. long piece. Do this first on reg straight cut. Now remove the fence and set up your aangle fence. Set your saw depth to zero. Raise the blade up 1/4 " and push the flat part of the angle through just enough so you can adjust the fence where the piece is centered. Now you want to do two pieces at a time . run first one through at this depth then run the second one through. Crank your blade up another 1/2". Run your pieces through again. Crank up blade another 1/2" do this every time until your radius hits the outside edges of the angle piece of foam. Do this slowly and make shure all fingers are clear. make your self a push stick out of some scrapWhen you build your tunnel mold then lay in the radius angle pieces and you will have a perfect round tunnel. You will have to make some compound cuts to make rad. parts blend in with the start of the tubbel. Some place in the archives when I built the PH 15 ther are some pictures. Lots of fun to do but go slow and be careful . Do not raise the blade to high. Just a little each time as you go deeper in the radius cuts.

Posted: **Fri May 05, 2017 8:11 am**

StickStuff, nice to hear from you!! Hope you and the wife are well!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri May 05, 2017 8:22 am**

Aripeka Angler wrote: ↑Thu May 04, 2017 5:31 pm Reid,
Nice looking cuts on the glass You have a great plan for the layup!
I'd snag a helper if you have one available. Also, pizza and beer make a great finish to big layup job

AA,

Thanks! As far as help goes, I am bringing my dad out of retirement for the layup. I'm sure there will be a beer or 6 involved along the way! (After the work is done of course

)

Reid

Posted: **Tue Jul 11, 2017 8:24 am**

Hi,
I follow this build all the time not only to see how easy it is to build from a kit but also because of the tips being mentioned. I have a question for my build which fits in here well because it is straight sheer and chine or round sheer and chine ? My problem is I am at the fairing and sanding of my Adelie 14 and I do not know if I should try for a sharp edge at the sheer and chine or a little bit round like a radius chamfer. Sofar I am battling with a sharp edge having to always put fairing on again and then sanding. I think a small chamfer would maybe easier to achieve with a hand sanding block.
I am sure one of you experts can help me.
Greetings from Karl

Posted: **Tue Jul 11, 2017 11:41 am**

Hey Karl,
You only need sharp chines for a planing hull. For your boat I would make my life easy and round them over.

And Reid it is about time for an update don't you think

Posted: **Tue Jul 11, 2017 5:32 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Tue Jul 11, 2017 11:41 am And Reid it is about time for an update don't you think

I think he is too busy catching big fish to worry about a little boat...

Posted: **Tue Jul 11, 2017 9:16 pm**

Best boat ever made is one your buddy owns. The nicer the boat the better the buddy

Posted: **Thu Jul 20, 2017 2:52 pm**

Been a little while since I posted last but wanted to give you a brief update on the FS18 progress. I am just about done with the first round of block sanding with 80 grit. I have gone with Eric1's suggestion and used the Dura-Blocks for the job. They work awesome! They really do a nice job of showing every low area and come in a variety of shapes and thicknesses making it easy to find the right Dura-Block for different sections of the hull. Next, I am going to come back and fill the low areas with more Quick Fair and then block it again. After the next round I hope to be ready for primer.

Here are some pics:

Improvised A/C: Jeff didn't want to install an A/C unit for the shop (and I don't blame him) so I had to improvise. It actually worked pretty well.

Posted: **Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:18 pm**

Reid, the boat looks great!

I may have to pirate your ac design

Posted: **Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:31 pm**

Richard,

Thanks!
There is another A/C design that calls for a 5 gallon bucket, here is the link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxSLbpAwibg

Reid

Posted: **Thu Jul 20, 2017 3:37 pm**

You are kicking butt Reid! Stay Cool!!

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:31 am**

Hey Guys, sorry I haven't posted in a while. I have started making a little more progress on the FS18. I did a little more fairing with Quick Fair on the transom, bow and keel. I think I have it pretty dialed in and ready for a first coat of primer.
Next, I glued my skeg down with some thickened MarinEpoxy (Silica and Milled Fiber). My plan is to graphite the skeg only and prime/paint the rest of the hull. I also used this same mixture to sharpen up the bottom of the transom and the edge where the bottom hull panels meet the hull sides. I will do a little sanding on the edges to clean them up and then fair them as well.
The last couple of photos are of the Rub Rail that I cut from some Okoume Marine Plywood. I definitely used my tools to my advantage for this process. I had our CNC engineer create a cut file for the rub rail using the same sheer line as the FS18 CNC kit. This would ensure that the rub rail would match up perfectly with the sheer line of the hull. The rub rail is 2 layers of 6mm Okoume with the seams offset. (very similar to how the stringers are constructed) I did a simple dry fit first but will take them off and glue the layers together and then glue them to the hull. I will eventually install the black Tessilmare Rub Rail kit on the completed boat.
Talk to you soon,
-Reid

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:51 am**

It looks fantastic Reid, I am very envious that you have a local CNC Engineer to just whip you up parts on request!

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:18 am**

Looks great!

I kind of feel like he's cheating. But that's mostly because I don't have my own CNC let alone a CNC guy.

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:24 am**

Bet he gets a discount on supplies also!

Looking good Reid. About time you got back on it!

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 12:08 pm**

Not fair.....

You need to build just one boat outside or at lest in an open carport!!!

And you have to wait 20 hours before you can take anything of the shelves that you ran out of!

Thought this was a new thread.... Still.....

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 12:33 pm**

And he should have to work with the CNC miscutting things with a 1/2” variability.

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 2:57 pm**

Jaysen wrote: ↑Wed Dec 13, 2017 12:33 pm And he should have to work with the CNC miscutting things with a 1/2” variability.

My next boat, I want to see what is being cut out (on paper).
I wish I had on this FS14 build.
The aft deck hatch cutout is way too big for what I want to do.
And the fore deck opening I did not need cut. But all is good.
She is looking better each week.
I do like the FS18, just too big for my carport!
Maybe, something in the 16 foot range next year.

Posted: **Wed Dec 13, 2017 3:10 pm**

Good work Reid!

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:17 am**

I was surprised to see how many pieces it took to do the rub rail. Two sides, two layers, but still . . . and counterintuitive that a straight sheer boat requires curved cuts for the rub rail pieces!

Why did you decide to laminate the pieces off the boat first, seems like you will fight to bend them more?

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:59 am**

pee wee wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:17 am I was surprised to see how many pieces it took to do the rub rail. Two sides, two layers, but still . . . and counterintuitive that a straight sheer boat requires curved cuts for the rub rail pieces!

Why did you decide to laminate the pieces off the boat first, seems like you will fight to bend them more?

Hank,

With the boat being 18' in length and the plywood being 8' in length it had to be done with two layers (first layer being 3 pieces and the second layer being 4 pieces). By doing this I avoid any flat spots and get a true/consistent curve in the rub rail. Also, even though this is the "Straight Sheer" FS18, there is still some slight camber. If I were to use straight cut pieces then I would have had to possibly fill some gaps once the rail was installed. Seaslug had this issue when he put the Maple rub rail on his FS14_LS. With the pieces only being 6mm and cut from Okoume, I won't have any issue bending the rub rail once the two layers are glued up. I would rather have the rub rail be on the stiffer side anyway so it helps hold the hull shape.

Reid

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:08 am**

Reid wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:59 am I would rather have the rub rail be on the stiffer side anyway so it helps hold the hull shape.

This. I wish I knew this. I did a 3 layer glue up "in place" and while she is stiffer than just the 1/4" hull, you can still see the sides flex when pressed (or hit by dock piling)(or hit by oysters)(or hit by beach rollers)(or hit by my head). I think the glue up off hull for a thin rail is a great idea.

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 12:35 pm**

Jaysen wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:08 am
Reid wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:59 am I would rather have the rub rail be on the stiffer side anyway so it helps hold the hull shape.
This. I wish I knew this. I did a 3 layer glue up "in place" and while she is stiffer than just the 1/4" hull, you can still see the sides flex when pressed (or hit by dock piling)(or hit by oysters)(or hit by beach rollers)(or hit by my head). I think the glue up off hull for a thin rail is a great idea.

I found .25" x 1.50" x 16' pine lattice, did one layer at a time, total of 3 layers. The back (aft section) on one side did not bend well, kinda flat... I thought too many spring clamps? I thought is would be best if I use long pieces instead of small pieces... Live and learn!

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 1:03 pm**

Not too sure "too many clamps" would do that as much as an uneven grain in one of the layers. I used 3 layers of .25 starting ripped form 8' ply. 8+4.25, 6.125+6.125, 4.25+8 if I recall the dimensions. I ran into flats with some strips not bending but found that putting them on the other side or flipping them over made everything happier. If I were to do it again I would cut the strips curved, then lam them off the hull. I would intentionally over arch to create tension and add stiffness. Id also consider steaming some real wood too. Just seems like the "right thing" but is just more work than I'm likely to sign up for.

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 5:15 pm**

Reid, where are the pictures, you of all people should know we want pictures.

Tom

Posted: **Thu Dec 14, 2017 5:51 pm**

Jaysen wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 1:03 pm Not too sure "too many clamps" would do that as much as an uneven grain in one of the layers. I used 3 layers of .25 starting ripped form 8' ply. 8+4.25, 6.125+6.125, 4.25+8 if I recall the dimensions. I ran into flats with some strips not bending but found that putting them on the other side or flipping them over made everything happier. If I were to do it again I would cut the strips curved, then lam them off the hull. I would intentionally over arch to create tension and add stiffness. Id also consider steaming some real wood too. Just seems like the "right thing" but is just more work than I'm likely to sign up for.

Wrap towels around the wood you want to bend and pour boiling water on the towels. It's hot!! Keep the hot water going until you feel the board bend easily.

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2017 7:58 am**

That's pretty much the way i did it only i didn't have a cnc machine. I just laid my side panels on some 3/8 ply
and traced it then cut it out with a saw. When i was ready to install i clamped the rub rail in position drilled
some alignment holes and put in some dowel pins to hold everything to keep from sliding around on the glue.
Did both layers both side in one shot.

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2017 8:04 am**

Reid, your boat is looking nice.
Great idea with the curved rubrail strips. I would laminate the strips together on the hull unless you have a curved form.

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2017 9:56 am**

TomW1 wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2017 5:15 pm Reid, where are the pictures, you of all people should know we want pictures.

Tom

Tom, they are on page 6 of the thread. More to come as I put the rubrail on and start the priming process.

Reid

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2017 10:20 am**

Reid, Man that is looking good. Sorry I have not posted Friend, I just have a lot on my mind these days.
I look forward to more pictures when you get the time.

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2017 10:45 am**

topwater wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 7:58 am That's pretty much the way i did it only i didn't have a cnc machine. I just laid my side panels on some 3/8 ply
and traced it then cut it out with a saw. When i was ready to install i clamped the rub rail in position drilled
some alignment holes and put in some dowel pins to hold everything to keep from sliding around on the glue.
Did both layers both side in one shot.

Topwater,

I have instructed several builders to do just as you say! If you trace the sheer line for the rub rails before you hang your hull panels you will save a lot of time and headache later.

Reid

Posted: **Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:57 am**

Reid wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 10:45 am
topwater wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2017 7:58 am That's pretty much the way i did it only i didn't have a cnc machine. I just laid my side panels on some 3/8 ply
and traced it then cut it out with a saw. When i was ready to install i clamped the rub rail in position drilled
some alignment holes and put in some dowel pins to hold everything to keep from sliding around on the glue.
Did both layers both side in one shot.
Topwater,

I have instructed several builders to do just as you say! If you trace the sheer line for the rub rails before you hang your hull panels you will save a lot of time and headache later.

Reid

The ONLY caveat with this is that you will need to extend the cuts PAST the length of the side panel as the rub rails are actually longer than the top of the side panel by a couple of inches. Not a hard thing to do, but something that needs to be said.

Posted: **Sat Dec 16, 2017 9:54 pm**

Reid, Just catching up on your build. Very nice.

Posted: **Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:36 pm**

Looking good Reid!

Posted: **Fri Jan 26, 2018 3:44 pm**

Hey all,

I got a few things accomplished in the today. I was able to work on sharpening up my rails in the back half of the hull and the bottom edge of the transom. I coated the skeg with a layer of epoxy and also ran a bead along the edges to create a small radius. Eventually I will graphite the entire skeg. Lastly, I did a little dry fitting of the rubrail. I trimmed the bow edges to match the angle of the bow and did the same with the transom edges. Next up I will clean up the rubrails and get them ready to install. I will also sand the chine and transom edges so they will be ready to prime. Shouldn't be too much longer before primer goes on!!! I can't wait to flip this thing!!!
Have a good weekend everyone!
-Reid

Posted: **Sun Jan 28, 2018 9:23 am**

Looking good Reid!

Posted: **Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:00 am**

Reid, she is looking great.

I saw the skeg, just wanted to know what it's made of?

Posted: **Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:02 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2018 9:00 am Reid, she is looking great.

I saw the skeg, just wanted to know what it's made of?

Capt UB,
The skeg is a very high density foam. I couldn't even tell you what kind or manufacturer. We had this piece sitting around the shop and I thought it might work well. Turns out it did!

Reid

Posted: **Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:10 pm**

Sanded the rails that I sharpened up the other day. They came out really nice!!! I have to be careful now when I walk around the hull that I don't cut myself!

The photo is from the transom looking towards the bow on the starboard side. I did this on the transom edge and then up approx. 7 feet on each side.
-Reid

Posted: **Thu Feb 01, 2018 4:12 pm**

Reid, That looks nice! I would knock the edge off a little bit though.
I did on mine for two reasons. One, They paint better and two, I was concerned with cutting my line when a fish goes under the boat.

Posted: **Thu Feb 01, 2018 7:18 pm**

Reid agree with Eric. Those sharp edges will not hold paint, round them over a little.

Tom

Posted: **Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:32 pm**

What did you use to build it up with? Fairing or peanut butter?

Posted: **Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:35 pm**

Thank you for the feedback guys! I will knock those edges down a little. Never thought of the fishing line issue, good call!!!

I used Quick Fair and then came back over it with some MarinEpoxy thickened with Silica.

-Reid

Posted: **Sat Feb 10, 2018 3:49 am**

Reid wrote: ↑Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:35 pm Thank you for the feedback guys! I will knock those edges down a little. Never thought of the fishing line issue, good call!!!

I used Quick Fair and then came back over it with some MarinEpoxy thickened with Silica.

-Reid

The experts may weigh in on this, but I used blended filler and epoxy on my first build to build up the edges. when I flipped it over after paint, one of the edges kind of crushed in when I set it down on a piece of wood. On my second build I used wood flour and epoxy. It was much better in my opinion. I rub the edge on oyster bars all the time with no issues.

Posted: **Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:43 am**

Silica would have been even harder than wood flour . harder and smoother.

Posted: **Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:50 am**

I'm not sure the functional difference between the two, but chopped strand glass or milled glass would work well. Anybody familiar with both products?

Posted: **Sat Feb 10, 2018 4:01 pm**

Hank I have used both. The strands when mixed with epoxy is called liquid fiberglass as it forms a lattice of those bound together strands and is very strong. Milled glass is very small chopped strands and can be used in place of cabosil. It is stronger than a cabosil mix. You still need some cabosil to keep both forms from drooping.

Tom

Posted: **Sun Feb 11, 2018 3:02 pm**

Thanks for the explanation, Tom. From what you've said, I think I'd use the chopped strand to build my reverse chines, maybe throw some wood flour in there, too!

Posted: **Sun Feb 11, 2018 6:08 pm**

I built some strakes that way and they worked out good.

Posted: **Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:07 pm**

Hey Everyone,

Well I finally got the first coat of Primer on the FS18. I used the System Three Yacht Primer rolled on with the EMC 1/8" mohair rollers and tipped with a Corona Europa 2" brush. I worked in small areas (1' x 2') and tipped each section before I went to the next. I am really happy with the results! I will spray a guide coat and block it out one more time, filling in with Quick Fair as I go. Once the second coat of primer goes on it is time for paint, finally!!!!
-Reid

Posted: **Mon Mar 05, 2018 5:44 pm**

Looking good.

Posted: **Mon Mar 05, 2018 6:22 pm**

Nice!

Posted: **Mon Mar 05, 2018 7:43 pm**

Bet you are going to be glad to flip that puppy and look at something else for a change

Posted: **Tue Mar 06, 2018 8:12 am**

Looks great.

Posted: **Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:28 am**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Mon Mar 05, 2018 7:43 pm Bet you are going to be glad to flip that puppy and look at something else for a change

I can't wait!!!

Posted: **Sat Mar 10, 2018 6:22 pm**

Looks great Reid!

Posted: **Fri Mar 16, 2018 2:33 pm**

Reid wrote: ↑Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:07 pm

O wow! that looks beautiful

Posted: **Fri Mar 16, 2018 2:35 pm**

Thanks Peter!

Posted: **Sun Aug 12, 2018 11:57 pm**

Reid,
What's the latest on your build?

Steve

Posted: **Tue Aug 14, 2018 11:55 am**

Reid wrote: ↑Mon Apr 17, 2017 4:28 pm Thank you everyone for the positive feedback!!!
Today I finished up the epoxy glue welds in between the zip ties. Next I will cut out the zip ties and finish off the fillets. I will have a little work to do on the chine and bow tip to get that nice and smooth and ready for glass. I will also be working to bow tip to add a flat spot for my bow eye. All of my fillets will be quarter rounded in order for the glass to lay down without any air pockets. Once the glassing is done I will go back in with fairing compound and make the edges sharp again.

Reid,

Did you use any spacers (nails..) between the slats on the round chime?
Did you use PVC tubing on the other side?

Bob.

Posted: **Tue Aug 14, 2018 12:48 pm**

Dutch1 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 12, 2018 11:57 pm Reid,
What's the latest on your build?

Steve

Steve,

Sorry to say that I haven't done much on the build lately. Jeff and I have been busy working on our new building and the upcoming move as well as the upgrades for the website. My wife and I also added a new addition to our family in April, a baby boy named Reilly. Needless to say, pretty much all of my free time goes to him! I am hoping to get back on the FS18 as soon as we move. Once the trailer that I ordered is done I will flip the boat onto it and get started on the interior. We are hoping to move into our new location by the end of September. (fingers crossed!)

-Reid

Posted: **Tue Aug 14, 2018 1:00 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Tue Aug 14, 2018 11:55 am
Reid wrote: ↑Mon Apr 17, 2017 4:28 pm Thank you everyone for the positive feedback!!!
Today I finished up the epoxy glue welds in between the zip ties. Next I will cut out the zip ties and finish off the fillets. I will have a little work to do on the chine and bow tip to get that nice and smooth and ready for glass. I will also be working to bow tip to add a flat spot for my bow eye. All of my fillets will be quarter rounded in order for the glass to lay down without any air pockets. Once the glassing is done I will go back in with fairing compound and make the edges sharp again.

Reid,

Did you use any spacers (nails..) between the slats on the round chime?
Did you use PVC tubing on the other side?

Bob.

Bob,

Behind the slits in the round chine I actually used pieces of a no. 2 pencil that I cut up. The PVC pipe was too large for this area. I didn't need any spacers for this section. I was able to systematically tighten and loosen those zip ties in order to keep the spacing consistent.
Reid

Posted: **Wed Aug 15, 2018 2:54 am**

Good looking kid and a full head of hair

Posted: **Wed Aug 15, 2018 1:27 pm**

Reid,
That is awesome! Congrats! It doesn't seem like it at first but dang they grow too fast!

The boat will be there when you can get back at it. Believe me, I know...

Steve

Posted: **Wed Aug 15, 2018 5:03 pm**

Great looking Boy Reid! Time with the young'uns is the most precious time there is.
All to soon he will be a man.

Posted: **Wed Aug 15, 2018 5:42 pm**

Cute little boy!! I can remember when my little girl was that size. 34 years later still seems like yesterday. Moments turn into days, then weeks and then years. Make the most of them.

Posted: **Tue Sep 11, 2018 9:56 am**

Hey Everyone,

The new Float-On Trailer has arrived!!! It is really nice. Below are a few photos. Next step is to flip the FS18 on to the trailer and then take the trailer over to Float-On so they can fit it with side bunks instead of guide poles. They prefer to fit the side bunks once the boat is on the trailer to ensure a good fit and hull clearance. Really happy with the trailer and especially the customer service!!!

-Reid

Posted: **Tue Sep 11, 2018 10:11 am**

SEXY!

Posted: **Tue Sep 11, 2018 10:56 am**

Very clean looking.

Posted: **Tue Sep 11, 2018 4:49 pm**

Hey Reid, That trailer looks great. I hope you're able to have the side bunks, but they'll need to be so far forward at the widest part of the boat for them to be of use keeping the boat centered and secured. You'll also need a rear roller so you can dry launch and load, without getting the rims wet. It helps to have the bunks a little lower in the rear so it comes off and on easier. That's one of the great things about having a light weight flat bottomed skiff, launch anywhere without dunking the trailer.

Posted: **Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:22 am**

Seaslug,

Thanks for the tips!
As soon as I get the boat flipped onto the trailer I am going to head over to Float-On so they can measure and install the side bunks. The president of the company delivered the trailer and we spoke about the installation of side bunks. He took some measurements and told me that it was definitely doable but they would need the boat on the trailer to get them set accurately.

I do like the suggestion about the rear roller. I will ask them about that.

Thanks!
Reid

Posted: **Wed Sep 12, 2018 12:23 pm**

No welds, just nuts and bolts?

Posted: **Thu Nov 08, 2018 2:17 pm**

Well Jeff and I got the boat flipped and on the trailer. I will be taking it over to our new shop location and get going on the inside. Here are a few shots of the hull sitting right side up. I cut some temporary supports to hold the hull shape until I can get the stringers and frames installed.
-Reid

Posted: **Thu Nov 08, 2018 11:27 pm**

Boat is looking very good Reid. As good as the boat looks I got to admit what I see on the shelves behind it causes me a sinful amount of lust

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2018 5:31 am**

Really like the way the chines transitions to the sides. Who says you can't do sexy curves with plywood? Excited you got the boat flipped and are ready to start back on it, soon.

Looking good,
OQ

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2018 6:49 am**

So that's what the Round Chine looks like inside on a standard hull. That's a great shot showing the slits for the round chine.
The LM18 I'm starting is the low sheer with the round chine.. so the hull would be 5" shorter! Hopefully my inside will look just as nice.

Nice job. That trailer does look nice too. Saving up for one like yours or something close.

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2018 9:41 am**

Reid wrote: ↑Thu Nov 08, 2018 2:17 pm I will be taking it over to our new shop location and get going on the inside.

Where is the new location? I gather that it's going to be a good bit farther south than Vero Beach . .

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2018 1:14 pm**

Pee Wee, we are moving to 7485 Commercial Circle, Fort Pierce, FL 34951 just as soon as our final permit is approved and the buildout is completed. I now anticipate moving in December!! It is only about 20 minutes south of our current location but the new shop will be about 1.5 miles off I-95 and 3 miles from the Florida Turnpike entrance/exit! Much easier drive to get to us!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Jan 29, 2019 3:29 pm**

Reid wrote: ↑Mon Apr 17, 2017 4:28 pm Thank you everyone for the positive feedback!!!
Today I finished up the epoxy glue welds in between the zip ties. Next I will cut out the zip ties and finish off the fillets. I will have a little work to do on the chine and bow tip to get that nice and smooth and ready for glass. I will also be working to bow tip to add a flat spot for my bow eye. All of my fillets will be quarter rounded in order for the glass to lay down without any air pockets. Once the glassing is done I will go back in with fairing compound and make the edges sharp again.

Reid,

Just (refound) found this post, great help. I thought about the straps around station A and B, but did not see anybody doing it (I think). Going to reread Seasugs post.

Bob.

Posted: **Tue Sep 24, 2019 2:22 pm**

Post an update please!

Come on man!

Posted: **Thu Sep 26, 2019 10:23 am**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 24, 2019 2:22 pm Post an update please!

Come on man!

YEAH!

Posted: **Thu Sep 26, 2019 11:09 am**

Yes I am aware that it has been a while since I have posted. Over the past few days I have made a little headway. I was able to get the inside of the hull filleted, taped, and glassed with 12oz biax. I ran my fillets and then came back with the 12 oz,6" tape, wet on wet. I always try and work wet on wet when it comes to fillets and taping. It just saves a TON of sanding and prep. The chines got one layer of tape and the keel and transom got two layers.
At the shop, we purchase our 12 oz by 50 yard roll, so often times we will have small pieces (1.5 - 3 yards) left over. I decided to use these on the inside of the hull. This is why the lamination job may look a little sloppy. There are actually 6 separate pieces of 12 oz. on the inside. I made sure to overlap the keel by 6" and also overlap the seams of each piece I applied.
Next I reinstalled my stringers and frames so that I could "spot weld" the stringers in place. I did this with really small fillets spaces about every 36". Once they set up I took out the frames and this is where I stand today. Next step is to run the complete fillets on the stringers and tape with 12 oz 6" biax.
Here are a couple of photos. I will post again once I make some more progress (so about a year from now!

)
-Reid

Posted: **Thu Sep 26, 2019 11:34 am**

Looks great and good use of leftover fiberglass. I too used some leftover glass for the inside of the round chine bow, made me feel better, but may not have needed it.

Looking forward to see how you will finish the decking..

Bob

Posted: **Thu Sep 26, 2019 12:02 pm**

Looking good brother!

Posted: **Thu Sep 26, 2019 3:25 pm**

Very nice!

Posted: **Fri Oct 18, 2019 7:58 pm**

Great tips on working the slits!

Posted: **Wed Oct 23, 2019 2:35 pm**

Hey Everyone,

I made a little headway on the FS18 today at the shop.
- I precut all of my 12 oz. biax fiberglass tape. I cut the tape to fit in between the frame sections. When the frames go in I will be able to tape all the gaps. I also labeled my pieces so I don't have to think about what piece goes where when I am on the clock with the epoxy.

-Next, I rolled out some neat epoxy on the stringer sides and the hull, everywhere the tape will lay. The stringers were already coated days before but I roll out another thin layer and allow it to get tacky. This helps hold my tape in place while I wet it out.
- I then ran my fillets on the all the stringer and transom knee seams (everywhere they meet the hull). I used the "plastic piping bag" method. If you have never done this I recommend you try it. It saves a ton of time and there is very little epoxy waste. To do this simply mix your epoxy and woodflour as you normally would. Then pour/scoop the mix into a thick plastic bag. Squeeze all of the fillet mix into the corner of the bag and snip the corner with some scissors. Then just pretend you are working in the bakery and icing a cake! Run a small bead of fillet along each seam. Once you put the mix into the bag you have to be ready to go. If you wait the heat will build up and the mix will kick off really fast. Once all the seams have a nice bead of fillet on them go back with a piece of PVC pipe and shape a nice 1/4 round fillet.

- As I have said previously, I always like to work wet-on-wet when it comes to taping. So I gave the fillets about 30 minutes to kick off and start to cure. While they were still pliable I started to lay up my fiberglass tape. I worked in small batches of epoxy (you can always mix more), wet out the tape with a 3" chip brush, and followed up with a 3" x 1/2" laminating roller to get any air bubbles out.

I think the whole process took me about 4 hours of total work time. Not to bad! Next step is installing the frames.

Posted: **Wed Oct 23, 2019 7:11 pm**

Solid Pro-Tips! Just don't get the pastry pipe mixed up in the kitchen!

Posted: **Wed Oct 23, 2019 9:50 pm**

Nice reid! Congrats on the progress.

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 5:12 am**

Good work and Tutorial! Build on!!

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 9:28 am**

Good progress!

I don't know how significant it is, but don't the plans call for the tape between the hull and stringers to be run full length, rather than pieced? It may be just as good the way you've done it, I'm just not used to seeing it done this way.

Btw, it looks like you've got a nice shop!

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 10:12 am**

pee wee wrote: ↑Thu Oct 24, 2019 9:28 am Good progress!

I don't know how significant it is, but don't the plans call for the tape between the hull and stringers to be run full length, rather than pieced? It may be just as good the way you've done it, I'm just not used to seeing it done this way.

Btw, it looks like you've got a nice shop!

I'm guessing he'll glass there when he installs the frames.

Posted: **Thu Oct 24, 2019 10:52 am**

pee wee wrote: ↑Thu Oct 24, 2019 9:28 am Good progress!

I don't know how significant it is, but don't the plans call for the tape between the hull and stringers to be run full length, rather than pieced? It may be just as good the way you've done it, I'm just not used to seeing it done this way.

Btw, it looks like you've got a nice shop!

Pee wee,

Eric1 is right. I left gaps in the tape to leave room for the frames. Those areas will be taped once the frames are in. If I were to have taped the entire length with one continuous piece then I would have had to shave the inside of my frame notches before installing the frames. You can certainly do it that way but I figured it would be easier to do the tape in pieces rather than shave the inside of notches that are only a hair over 3/8" wide. To each his own i guess.

-Reid

Posted: **Sat Oct 26, 2019 3:01 am**

I love using a gallon zip lock back for thickened epoxy. That's the only way I do it. It's like welding at that point. Just lay a nice bead. But, you have to work quickly and plan ahead to get everything ready before you mix.

Posted: **Wed Nov 06, 2019 2:48 pm**

Got a little fancy today with the help of the CNC machine (and Crystal doing the programming). Since this boat will eventually be going to boat shows with Jeff and I, I wanted to add an extra touch. This is Frame B, it is the bulkhead that makes up the cockpit. I wanted to leave a little natural wood showing when she is finished. Next I will fill the lettering with a pigmented epoxy and leave a good portion of this frame as bright work. Just need to decide on a color scheme for the letters. I'm thinking black with some silver mixed in. Thoughts?
-Reid

Posted: **Wed Nov 06, 2019 6:48 pm**

Nice touch! But you got to keep going and finish this bad boy. Keep in mind that you are building a demo boat and any time you spend on it is justified as work towards the company’s marketing efforts.

Posted: **Thu Nov 07, 2019 5:56 am**

Very Cool Reid!

Posted: **Thu Nov 07, 2019 8:44 am**

Browndog wrote: ↑Wed Nov 06, 2019 6:48 pm Nice touch! But you got to keep going and finish this bad boy. Keep in mind that you are building a demo boat and any time you spend on it is justified as work towards the company’s marketing efforts.

Browndog,

I would love to spend all day, every day on the boat but customer jobs have to come first, got to pay the bills! Today I have to cut a GV11 CNC kit that was just purchased. When we have slow days I am able to work on the boat, but we want to keep the slow days to a minimum (I'm sure Jeff would agree also

)
I will keep plugging away whenever I have free time!
-Reid

Posted: **Thu Nov 07, 2019 10:30 am**

Great idea!

Posted: **Fri Nov 08, 2019 11:53 am**

Poured the tinted resin into the Flats Stalker logo. I used some blue, white, and a good amount of silver. The silver will show when it hits the sunlight. Next is a some sanding and a layer of clear epoxy. Once this is done, I can go forward with installing the frames.
-Reid

Posted: **Fri Nov 08, 2019 12:03 pm**

That's dang nice Reid!

Posted: **Fri Nov 08, 2019 1:12 pm**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Fri Nov 08, 2019 12:03 pm That's dang nice Reid!

Thanks Eric!

Posted: **Fri Nov 08, 2019 1:33 pm**

How did you pour it? With a syringe?

Posted: **Fri Nov 08, 2019 3:10 pm**

Yes, I mixed in a cup and drew it up with a syringe. Made it very easy!

Posted: **Fri Nov 08, 2019 9:03 pm**

Awesome boat you got there! Looking great!

Posted: **Sat Nov 09, 2019 4:48 am**

Reid wrote: ↑Fri Nov 08, 2019 11:53 am Poured the tinted resin into the Flats Stalker logo. I used some blue, white, and a good amount of silver. The silver will show when it hits the sunlight. Next is a some sanding and a layer of clear epoxy. Once this is done, I can go forward with installing the frames.
-Reid
FS18 logo color.jpg

Posted: **Sat Nov 09, 2019 8:08 am**

Sweet!

Posted: **Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:29 pm**

Show off

I’ll bring a bulkhead hatch by and you can cut my logo into it!

Reid wrote: ↑Fri Nov 08, 2019 11:53 am Poured the tinted resin into the Flats Stalker logo. I used some blue, white, and a good amount of silver. The silver will show when it hits the sunlight. Next is a some sanding and a layer of clear epoxy. Once this is done, I can go forward with installing the frames.
-Reid
FS18 logo color.jpg

Posted: **Fri Dec 13, 2019 3:15 pm**

Made some progress this week. I was able to get all of the frames installed. First I tack welded them in with small fillets. I then used the piping bag technique again to lay out the rest of the fillet and then follow up with the 12 oz. biax tape, wet on wet. I also spent some time thinking about the chase tube layout. Next step will be to install the chase tubes and do some fairing on the inside while it is still wide open.
-Reid

Here is the diagram of what I am wanting to do with the chase tubes. Any thoughts or suggestions? (Yes, I know the drawing is not to scale

)

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2019 11:17 am**

Nice!

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2019 11:54 am**

Looking good Buddy!

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2019 12:57 pm**

So I am definitely lacking when it comes to electrical knowledge so I will put this out there, hopefully you all can help.

Here is what I will be running on the FS18:
- Yamaha 25 HP 4 stroke w/ electric trim/tilt, electric start
- Power Pole Sportsman II, 4 foot, w/ 12 volt motor
- LED Bow and Stern Lights
- LED light strips under gunwhales
- USB Charge socket (total amp output is 4.2)
- Electric fuel gauge
- possibly a stereo and speakers

Will I need two batteries?
What size will I need for both?

Thanks,
Reid

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2019 3:11 pm**

Reid wrote: ↑Tue Dec 17, 2019 12:57 pm So I am definitely lacking when it comes to electrical knowledge so I will put this out there, hopefully you all can help.

Here is what I will be running on the FS18:
- Yamaha 25 HP 4 stroke w/ electric trim/tilt, electric start
- Power Pole Sportsman II, 4 foot, w/ 12 volt motor
- LED Bow and Stern Lights
- LED light strips under gunwhales
- USB Charge socket (total amp output is 4.2)
- Electric fuel gauge
- possibly a stereo and speakers

Will I need two batteries?
What size will I need for both?

Thanks,
Reid

Can you go with a Bluetooth speakers and use your cell phone for music? I have had no luck with the USB charge sockets, they get a bit of salt... LED is the way to go! I like AGM batteries, the duel purpose AGM batteries work great nowdays as house bank. Two batteries, to me is a must... I don't know about the power poles, I have a manual pole!

This is the fun time, get your lights in so you can leave them on at night in the driveway! So cool looking!!

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2019 8:00 pm**

Dump the stereo and speakers. It's a Flats Stalker!

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2019 8:09 pm**

Reid wrote: ↑Tue Dec 17, 2019 12:57 pm So I am definitely lacking when it comes to electrical knowledge so I will put this out there, hopefully you all can help.

Here is what I will be running on the FS18:
- Yamaha 25 HP 4 stroke w/ electric trim/tilt, electric start
- Power Pole Sportsman II, 4 foot, w/ 12 volt motor
- LED Bow and Stern Lights
- LED light strips under gunwhales
- USB Charge socket (total amp output is 4.2)
- Electric fuel gauge
- possibly a stereo and speakers

Will I need two batteries?
What size will I need for both?

Thanks,
Reid

Reid,
One group 24 battery is plenty for what you plan for your boat.
We run nearly as much electrical stuff as you are planning on our “Bare Bones” boat with a single small motorcycle battery.
Nav lights, jacplate, 2018 25 hp four stroke Yamaha with PTT, LED lights, etc.
The battery pan is totally isolated on our boat in the bow compartment in front of the fuel tank.
The weight balance is perfect with the fuel and battery in the bow.
I’ve seen several of these boats and this is the flattest running setup that I have observed, hands down.
I can’t brag enough about the weight balance with the fuel tank and battery in the bow.
Merry Christmas to y’all!

Posted: **Tue Dec 17, 2019 10:08 pm**

When I was building my FS18 a friend that sells motorized wheel chairs gave me a used battery from a wheel chair trade in and it has not failed me in 3 and a half years, and without any charging other than from the 20 hp Merc. and mostly very short runs of a few miles at a time.

Posted: **Wed Dec 18, 2019 9:53 am**

CaptUB,

I will go with a bluetooth head unit. My brother just put one in his boat and it is nice.

Reid

Posted: **Wed Dec 18, 2019 10:05 am**

[/quote]

Reid,
One group 24 battery is plenty for what you plan for your boat.
We run nearly as much electrical stuff as you are planning on our “Bare Bones” boat with a single small motorcycle battery.
Nav lights, jacplate, 2018 25 hp four stroke Yamaha with PTT, LED lights, etc.
The battery pan is totally isolated on our boat in the bow compartment in front of the fuel tank.
The weight balance is perfect with the fuel and battery in the bow.
I’ve seen several of these boats and this is the flattest running setup that I have observed, hands down.
I can’t brag enough about the weight balance with the fuel tank and battery in the bow.
Merry Christmas to y’all!
[/quote]

Thanks AA! I am not set on the layout yet but I am only planning on putting one large hatch in the bow, between frames A and B. This is where the fuel tank will go and still have room for storage. I will put an access hatch cut into frame A in case I need to get up there but I don't plan on putting anything up there. I am trying to keep the layout really simple and clean. I want to put a casting platform on the bow and don't want any hatches under it. I do like the confirmation of having one battery though. This will help on weight. With the new Yamaha only weighing about 130 lbs and the power pole only weighing 22 lbs I will still be pretty light in the back. Going to have about an 8 gallon tank up front.

Reid

Posted: **Wed Dec 18, 2019 10:07 am**

cape man wrote: ↑Tue Dec 17, 2019 8:00 pm Dump the stereo and speakers. It's a Flats Stalker!

Capeman,

My little guy likes to dance so I need some tunes for him when we go to the sandbar!
-Reid

Posted: **Wed Dec 18, 2019 10:09 am**

seaslug wrote: ↑Tue Dec 17, 2019 10:08 pm When I was building my FS18 a friend that sells motorized wheel chairs gave me a used battery from a wheel chair trade in and it has not failed me in 3 and a half years, and without any charging other than from the 20 hp Merc. and mostly very short runs of a few miles at a time.

Seaslug,

Somehow this does not surprise me that you bartered for a wheel chair battery! A scene from a Seinfeld episode comes to mind.

Reid

Posted: **Wed Dec 18, 2019 7:26 pm**

Posted: **Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:18 pm**

Been trying to stay busy on the FS18. I have been able to get quite a few of the cleats installed in the cockpit area. I used some poplar and some old Okoume dimensional pieces we had lying around the shop. The cleats are glued with a woodflour/epoxy mix, same consistency as fillets. I also got the chase tubes run for the fuel line and the electric.
I also got an unexpected delivery today, the new Fuel Tank!!! We have started working with a new weld shop near us and they certainly did not disappoint. I simply gave them the dimensions of the tank and where I wanted the tank fill, fuel line to engine, and vent. EVERYTHING on the tank is aluminum. By making all the parts from aluminum this will eliminate any chance of corrosion due to Galvanic Corrosion. I also had the tank powder coated white. The tank dimensions are 23.5"(W) x 12" (L) x 8" (H), this gives me an approximate 9.5 gallon tank. The lead time for this tank was only 3 days.
We will be offering custom tanks on www.boatbuildercentral.com very soon, so contact me if you are interested.

Overall I am very excited on how the boat is coming together. The light at then end of the tunnel is definitely in sight!

-Reid

Posted: **Wed Jan 15, 2020 6:36 pm**

Nice looking work!
The tank is sweet, with a 4 stroke 25 Yamaha you’ll get 100 plus miles of range.

Posted: **Thu Jan 16, 2020 6:48 am**

Hey Reid, That looks like a great tank, can you give me a ballpark price on that size tank, we'll be needing a tank soon for Scott's Conchfish build and I can't find any good deals. We're wanting a tank around 8 gallons. Good to see you're finding some time to work on the boat. Mike

Posted: **Thu Jan 16, 2020 8:47 am**

seaslug wrote: ↑Thu Jan 16, 2020 6:48 am Hey Reid, That looks like a great tank, can you give me a ballpark price on that size tank, we'll be needing a tank soon for Scott's Conchfish build and I can't find any good deals. We're wanting a tank around 8 gallons. Good to see you're finding some time to work on the boat. Mike

Seaslug,

I am not sure on the exact price yet. I can tell you that when TJ, our new welder, came out to the shop we showed him the tank on the FS14_LS. Based on that tank the price would be in the $250.00 range. I will reach out as soon as I have a better answer for you.

If you want, email me with your tank dimensions, location of fill, vent, etc., and if you want it powder coated or not. I can get a more accurate quote for you.

-Reid

Posted: **Thu Jan 16, 2020 9:35 am**

Looking good Reid!

Posted: **Thu Jan 16, 2020 3:29 pm**

Nice tank! 'Bout time you got back to spending some time on the build!

Posted: **Tue Jan 21, 2020 12:57 pm**

Very nice!

Posted: **Wed Jan 22, 2020 1:29 pm**

I got started on the remainder of the cleats in the cockpit and the fuel tank area (between frames A and B). I decided to cut 8" pieces of poplar 1"x2" for the cleats that will line the inside of the hull and support the outer edges of the sole. I cut the tops of the cleats at the same angle as the hull sides so my sole will sit flush on the cleats. As you can see from the photos I decided to use some 1"x2" pieces to hold the cleats in place since the clamps obviously will not reach that far.
I used woodflour and epoxy as my glue for the cleats, spreading it on the glue with a notched spreader. Just need to do the other side and I can work on foam and installing the sole.

-Reid

Posted: **Fri Jan 24, 2020 7:49 am**

Looking good!

Posted: **Tue Jan 28, 2020 3:12 pm**

Looks great Reid! Your progress is super helpful since you're always one step ahead of me. Did you vary the angle any for the cleats on the hull sides? Tank also looks awesome, wish I had known I could get one through you guys before I ordered mine.

Bob

Posted: **Tue Jan 28, 2020 10:00 pm**

Dig it!

Posted: **Wed Jan 29, 2020 9:13 am**

Very nice, Reid!

Posted: **Wed Jan 29, 2020 9:42 am**

toadfish wrote: ↑Tue Jan 28, 2020 3:12 pm Looks great Reid! Your progress is super helpful since you're always one step ahead of me. Did you vary the angle any for the cleats on the hull sides? Tank also looks awesome, wish I had known I could get one through you guys before I ordered mine.

Bob

Thanks toadfish!
Yes, I did alter the angle as I moved to different sections (Frames E to D, D to C, and C to B).
We literally just started working with this new weld shop near us. This is the first tank they have made for us, I was kind of the guinea pig. The tank came out really nice and we will have them on the website soon.

-Reid

Posted: **Fri Jan 31, 2020 4:42 pm**

I started the process of pouring Buoyancy Foam yesterday. So far I am happy with the progress. Next up, pour the middle sections.
Have a good weekend!
-Reid

Posted: **Fri Jan 31, 2020 6:22 pm**

Nice!

Posted: **Fri Jan 31, 2020 6:24 pm**

Reid,
What's the 90' bend in the sole for?

Steve

Posted: **Fri Jan 31, 2020 6:25 pm**

Yes, it is looking really good!

Yeah....What is the 90° elbow PVC for?

Posted: **Sat Feb 01, 2020 8:35 am**

I will make a small box for my grab bar. The PVC pipe is the chase tube for the electrical components going to the box.
-Reid

Posted: **Tue Feb 04, 2020 3:10 pm**

Should make her nice and tight.

Can’t wait to see what you come up with for cleaning up the center section!

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 1:22 pm**

Hey Everyone,

Here is a Foam Cutting update:
I have watched numerous videos on how to build a foam wire cutter but this was my first attempt. I wanted to find a way to cut the middle sections of buoyancy foam from under the sole.
There was definitely a little bit of trial and error. The first design I made of PVC pipe but found that the screws that attached the wire to the pvc pipe would get too hot and melt the pvc pipe. The model that worked was made from some scrap pieces of oak I had at the shop, some spare trailer lighting wire, and a roll of stainless steel wire. The power source was the 12v battery from our forklift. For the most part it worked really well. The only issue I had at the end was my wire kept breaking. I am assuming this was due to the heat and the amount of tension being put on the wire.
Anyway, her are a few photos of the results.
-Reid

Here is a short YouTube video of one of the cuts:
https://youtu.be/3Yhz4039OXU

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 1:47 pm**

Nice! Also useful, I suspect, in getting people to talk!

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 3:32 pm**

All the foam is sanded and ready to be re-sealed with epoxy.

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 4:13 pm**

So is BBC going to start selling foam cutter kits?

the correct wire to use.
https://www.modeltrainstuff.com/woodlan ... 20Products

Posted: **Sat Feb 15, 2020 7:59 pm**

i absolutely love the fully foamed under sole space. That’s the way we built “Bare Bones”.

Your boat will be a very quiet and safe, nice work.

Posted: **Mon Feb 17, 2020 10:42 am**

Aripeka Angler wrote: ↑Sat Feb 15, 2020 7:59 pm i absolutely love the fully foamed under sole space. That’s the way we built “Bare Bones”.
Your boat will be a very quiet and safe, nice work.

Thanks AA! I have to admit, I was not going to fully foam under the sole but when I did a dry fit of the sole and spoke with Seaslug I decided to completely foam under the sole. As you know the sole is cut from 1/4" Okoume and as soon as I set the sole down and stepped on it there was no doubt that it needed some additional support. The sound dampening is amazing also.

-Reid

Posted: **Mon Feb 17, 2020 10:48 am**

Very nice , Reid!

Posted: **Mon Feb 17, 2020 11:13 am**

Hey all,

I got some work done on the fuel tank mounting board and the backing boards under the sole.
The first few photos show how I permanently mounted the 1/4" bolts for my fuel tank. First I overdrilled the holes for the bolts, back-filled them with thickened epoxy (silica and milled glass mix), and re-drilled the 1/4" holes. Then I took some scrap pieces of Okoume and made a box around each bolt that I later filled with the same thickened epoxy. This will hold the bolts in place and keep them from spinning as I tighten down the lock nuts for the tank.

Next I worked on the backing plates under the sole to mount the grab bar and cooler/seat straps. I pre-cut pieces of Okoume 24" x 5" and laminated two layers together. I then took my router and routed out pockets for the backing boards. Next I coated the backing boards and the foam pockets with neat epoxy. Working wet-on-wet I mixed up some epoxy glue (woodflour) and spread it on the bottom of the boards and in the pockets with a notched spreader. Once the boards were in place I filled any void edges with the epoxy glue.

Next step is to coat the sole and get it glued in!!!
-Reid