I was working on the bottom panels, trying to figure out how to correct the issues and realized I have a decent amount of rocker in the transom. Well over 1/8", I can't use the stringers for help because they sit near 3/16" proud on top of that. I tried using a straight edge, but somehow ended up back the same.
I've got a plan to realign the center, but can't proceed until I get this solved. If not my hull bottom will end up being more filler and fairing compound then wood. I haven't even tried the side panels yet as I know they are out of square too. I don't have the stringers in the jig because they are so far off they won't let the bottom panels lay fair. Lol I just need one thing to go right before I snap.
The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe, and an FS17.
Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
Rocker on the transom? Rocker is longitudinal, I suppose you mean rocker as I show in some of my HowTo files.
1/8 may not be enough. In the PH16 and PH18, designed 25 tears ago, I put 1/2" of rocker in the plywood.
I don't discuss it often but have said it a couple of times over the years. I put a tiny little bit of rocker in the plywood close to the transom because you will be piling up layer of glass there with the transom fiberglass overlaps, at least 1/8". If it was flat, you would create a hog, the opposite of rocker,
To have a little of rocker there is perfect, it is intentional.
What I did not expect is for people to worry about that 1/8" at the plywood stage.
It is fine, keep going.
1/8 may not be enough. In the PH16 and PH18, designed 25 tears ago, I put 1/2" of rocker in the plywood.
I don't discuss it often but have said it a couple of times over the years. I put a tiny little bit of rocker in the plywood close to the transom because you will be piling up layer of glass there with the transom fiberglass overlaps, at least 1/8". If it was flat, you would create a hog, the opposite of rocker,
To have a little of rocker there is perfect, it is intentional.
What I did not expect is for people to worry about that 1/8" at the plywood stage.
It is fine, keep going.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
Lol, bet you didn't expect to sell a lot of plans to guys with a touch of OCD. Ok, I'll keep going.
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe, and an FS17.
Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
I am the opposite: very optimistic about gaps. I always think in terms of fiberglass boatbuilding.
The plywood is nice core that provides stiffness and add strength but in a large boat, most of the strength comes from the glass,
The plywood is nice core that provides stiffness and add strength but in a large boat, most of the strength comes from the glass,
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
I don't mind if it was a slightly bigger gap in just one area, but the more I dig in the worse it's getting. I've never had so much trouble with any of my previous builds. I bundled up and spent 3 hours freezing this morning trying to figure this out. I installed blocks to secure it in place so I can re scribe the panel, well actually seeing the panel curved showed it was worse then thought.
The major issue isn't what I did, it's that the factory edge on the 1/4" sheet is off nearly a degree. It might be hard to see but here is the gap at the transom. I might have no choice, but to live with. This is with the centerline factory edge lined up, and yes it is symmetrical on both panels.
It's so far off that the bow mold isn't even touching anymore. If I cut it back further so it fits up front the gaps along all the other edges and centerline become more severe. again the problem is the factory edge is off, so If I line up one side of the splice the other is way off. The only solution I can even think of at this point would be to cut the splice apart and reangle it, but I can see that ending up in disaster.
I feel like I've done a lot of complaining thus far and it bothers me because this isn't typical for me. My 3 other builds have been very positive and I apologize to the members here for that, but I'm not sure how to proceed mentally from here after so many hours with no progress.
The major issue isn't what I did, it's that the factory edge on the 1/4" sheet is off nearly a degree. It might be hard to see but here is the gap at the transom. I might have no choice, but to live with. This is with the centerline factory edge lined up, and yes it is symmetrical on both panels.
It's so far off that the bow mold isn't even touching anymore. If I cut it back further so it fits up front the gaps along all the other edges and centerline become more severe. again the problem is the factory edge is off, so If I line up one side of the splice the other is way off. The only solution I can even think of at this point would be to cut the splice apart and reangle it, but I can see that ending up in disaster.
I feel like I've done a lot of complaining thus far and it bothers me because this isn't typical for me. My 3 other builds have been very positive and I apologize to the members here for that, but I'm not sure how to proceed mentally from here after so many hours with no progress.
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe, and an FS17.
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
I think I might see the problem....
The plans show the center-line straight from the transom to where the curve starts.
Perhaps it is a trick of the camera, but both of those pictures show a 'lump' sticking out which I could see causing the issues you are having.
The plans show the center-line straight from the transom to where the curve starts.
Perhaps it is a trick of the camera, but both of those pictures show a 'lump' sticking out which I could see causing the issues you are having.
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
The panels were supposed to be straight like you discribed, the point is where my curve originated and needed to be smoothed out. Since the panels weren't quite square they curved back towards the center.
I'm working it out. Ready to bang my head against the wall some more, but getting somewhere, maybe. The scary part is I haven't been able to even see how far off the side panels are yet.
So I come in cussing a bit and try telling my wife what's up. She says "you have a good budget, why don't you just go buy a boat and fix it up instead?".......... My response "Damned it Lisa! That's not the point!"
Come Hell or Low water I gotta find a way to make this thing float.
I'm working it out. Ready to bang my head against the wall some more, but getting somewhere, maybe. The scary part is I haven't been able to even see how far off the side panels are yet.
So I come in cussing a bit and try telling my wife what's up. She says "you have a good budget, why don't you just go buy a boat and fix it up instead?".......... My response "Damned it Lisa! That's not the point!"
Come Hell or Low water I gotta find a way to make this thing float.
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe, and an FS17.
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OnlineJaysen
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
Water will float it.
Don't stress about creating gaps. Just about everything you describe (unless I'm missing something, and I usually am) can be "cut and stretched" with the S&G method used to build these boats. Seriously. If gaps were an issue, Lil Bit would have sunk the first time she got wet. The entire bow is epoxy and filler.
I'd recommend doing what JM said. Loose stitches and get to the point of putting the sides on. Don't worry about transom yet. See how it lines up and determine the action that will get you back on track.
Zip ties are cheap
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
Well it's a Holiday season miracle! I think I actually figured something out here.
After 8+ hours of measuring, screwing, unscrewing, zip tying, cutting zip ties, measuring again, leveling, setting up laser, stitching panels again, scribing, cutting, trimming, sanding, sweating, and bleeding, I think I have it mostly resolved.
I re mounted the transom where I'm happy with it. Then I took one of the panels and blocked/clamped it in place. Well as close to its place as I could get. I took the laser and set it up on the center line of the jig. The sharpie lines you see are where the laser hit, and go all the way almost to the transom. Reason being I decided I would rather have the gaps on the chine then the keel.
I trimmed and sanded the panels and stitched them back together. They fit well enough, but need some more sanding due to rubbing on the edges. I'll have gaps to fill on the chines and transom edge. It's a good thing I doubled the transom thickness, or part of the bottom panel would be floating in the air.
After 8+ hours of measuring, screwing, unscrewing, zip tying, cutting zip ties, measuring again, leveling, setting up laser, stitching panels again, scribing, cutting, trimming, sanding, sweating, and bleeding, I think I have it mostly resolved.
I re mounted the transom where I'm happy with it. Then I took one of the panels and blocked/clamped it in place. Well as close to its place as I could get. I took the laser and set it up on the center line of the jig. The sharpie lines you see are where the laser hit, and go all the way almost to the transom. Reason being I decided I would rather have the gaps on the chine then the keel.
I trimmed and sanded the panels and stitched them back together. They fit well enough, but need some more sanding due to rubbing on the edges. I'll have gaps to fill on the chines and transom edge. It's a good thing I doubled the transom thickness, or part of the bottom panel would be floating in the air.
Built: 15ft Skiff, 16ft Skiff, Modified Cheap Canoe, and an FS17.
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Re: The Plytanic 2.0 - FS17 Build
That looks great!
I am glad you figured it out.
I am glad you figured it out.
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