Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Mon Feb 05, 2018 11:52 pm**

Work as been slow going since I moved the supplies to Cocoa. A friend of mine is helping with it. He has a fully loaded shop and owes me money so is working off some of the balance by helping. I cut all the parts in a 10x20 bay close by and hauled it all to his place for assembly. Here is what we have up to this point. About 20 hrs in, including cutting the wood. I have a ton more pics of the progress, but mostly just the cut parts.

Posted: **Tue Feb 06, 2018 6:58 am**

Looking good!

Posted: **Tue Feb 06, 2018 7:50 am**

johnstonjosh, Good to hear from you and nice progress!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:25 am**

All of the great info on these threads have really made things easy to follow. Only snag I am running into is the shop is an hr away from my house and the guy helping is a professional boat repair/fiberglasser/carpenter and has his own way of doing things. While not wrong, they take more time, a little more material and instead of several tasks being able to be done at once, we have to wait a little longer. He thinks the fiberglass lamination schedule isnt enough so instead of 2 layers of tape down the keel line, as called for, he cut one of the layers into a 2 inch and 4 inch strip, then layered the 2 inch first, then 4, then 6. so its the same ammount of glass, but now in 3 layers instead of 2. it will require more fairing in the end but makes for a strong joint, just takes longer. I guess when you are familiar with a technique that works you dont want to try anything else even though the boat was designed a certain way.

Posted: **Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:53 am**

Don't let the local expert over ride my specifications. Let him help you with application and fairing techniques but your designer (that's me

) has much more experience with the material than he has. I am the only one using that material, how would he know what works or not?
My scantlings are based on lab testing and proven by thousands of boats over 25 years.

About the keel, I hope you understand that the tape is only a part of the glass schedule. The wide fabric will overlap several inches over the keel and you will have a total of 4 layers inside and 4 layers outside in epoxy, not polyester. That means a total of 96 oz. plus the core. It is extremely strong.

Posted: **Tue Feb 06, 2018 2:33 pm**

Johnstonjosh,

Boat looks great so far!!!
Like Jacques said earlier, stick to the lamination schedule that he has laid out. This is our most popular boat and has been built time and time again, none of which have ever had an issue with hull strength. You are correct though, your friend's way will add more fairing to your build, which will add more time and weight. These are not polyester mold boats. Epoxy stitch and glue is a much stronger build method that utilizes better, stronger materials (that's why the designs are light and efficient.)
Best of luck going forward, and I look forward to seeing your progress!!

-Reid

Posted: **Tue Feb 06, 2018 9:37 pm**

I am trying to get the guy to stay with the plans. Everything will be solid, but if anything, more heavy. I am just a few classes shy of an aerospace engineering degree soI am well versed in determining material strength and know that the plans specifications are more than adequate. I just cant be there overseeing his every step since we agreed to let him help me to work off a balance owed to me for selling him my sailboat on payments.

That being said, we got the chines and transom taped. Thurs we will do the exterior glass and so far its looking great. the back section is pretty flat so i dont see any issues to address with hook or rocker. Everything lines up really well and some of the cutting mistakes I had when I was using a sub par jigsaw at first turned out to be no big deal. nothing some filler couldnt fill or a sander couldnt take down a bit.

Posted: **Wed Feb 07, 2018 12:00 pm**

Taped up and about ready to add the fiberglass.

Posted: **Thu Feb 08, 2018 8:47 pm**

Got the wood for the rub rails ready, the bottom is glassed, and getting ready to start fairing as soon as the epoxy cures

Posted: **Thu Feb 08, 2018 9:13 pm**

The fairing is a real good place for your buddy to work off what he owes. And if done right he will well and truly earn his money

Posted: **Thu Feb 08, 2018 10:31 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2018 9:13 pm The fairing is a real good place for your buddy to work off what he owes. And if done right he will well and truly earn his money

You beat me to it!

Newt

Posted: **Thu Feb 08, 2018 10:42 pm**

My thought exactly! I got the skeg cut and routered the edges on the top side so it will have a nice contour. I dont know what it is about cocoa beach but while we were working on it some guy walked by the shop and he does boat work....he thought what it really needed was a 2ft dagger board instead of a skeg and thought that a windsurfing sail would turn it into a nice sailboat. Not sure what he was thinking lol.

Posted: **Tue Feb 13, 2018 9:51 am**

I got the graphite I need for the bottom and shaped the skeg so its ready to go on today. I couldnt find any 1x1 lumber at the local chains but they had some pretty decent 2x2s that are really 1.5x1.5 It took some work but I was able to use a router to shave down the dimensions a bit without changing the straightness of the piece. I was afraid that if I had tried to use a saw it would have gone wrong with it being so small. After it was trimmed down I used the router to round off the top corners, then took a sander to finish the profile and add the tapers to the front and back.

Posted: **Tue Feb 13, 2018 9:58 am**

Everyone seems to find their own combination of tools and techniques that they're most comfortable with, I'd find it harder to do that with a router than a saw!
Sometimes I'll watch videos of guys in third world countries doing amazing work with (only slight exaggeration) a rock and a machete. It's a good reminder that the most important tool is the mind and hands of the person doing the work.

Posted: **Tue Feb 13, 2018 10:03 am**

I was just concerned that if the part kicked it would tear a chunk off or not be straight. I clamped the part to a table edge, and used a 1/2 inch straight router bit down one side, flipped 90 degrees and ran the length again. wasnt hard at all. Then used a 3/8 curve bit to radius the top corners. there was a little area on the top middle that the router didnt get so just took a sander to it. It only took about 20 minutes to get it all looking how I wanted.

Posted: **Wed Feb 14, 2018 10:45 pm**

Keep up with the pics. I flipped mine once the bottom was glassed and the skeg was installed. I installed all the frames, interior framing, foam and sole. Then flipped back over and faired the bottom and sides and finished the bottom.

I can only handle so much of doing the same thing for a certain amount of time.

Then re-flipped and finished the top side and painted the sides.

The boat is not that heavy, and using mechanical advantage makes it easy.

Posted: **Thu Feb 15, 2018 11:29 am**

Looks like thats what we are going to do. Skeg is installed. I made some not so smooth lines when cutting since I didnt notice the jigsaw blade had curved a bit. Once we flip it we can install the rub rails and use that to see what needs to be filled or sanded down. Going to glass in the frames and stringers. Just noticed an issue underneath where hull is not quite at the right profile. It doesnt look bad but the V extended back a little farther that it should have. Frames C and D have about an inch gap between the bottom and the hull where it wanted to V up a bit. The contour actually doesnt look bad and the back 6 feet are nice and flat. I am hoping once it is flipped and the weight is on the keel line we can get it to the right shape. There is enough flex in it right now that if we put weight on it, the hull goes to where it should be. If the boat's weight flattens that part down once flipped and we glass in the the frames it should sort itself out.

Posted: **Thu Feb 15, 2018 3:29 pm**

Starting to look like a boat!

Posted: **Thu Feb 15, 2018 3:51 pm**

Yes, looking good now!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Feb 18, 2018 2:30 pm**

Started fairing. Nice having it on wheels to roll out in the sun and get a better look at it.

Posted: **Sun Feb 18, 2018 2:41 pm**

Josh, really good progress!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Feb 18, 2018 2:46 pm**

Thanks! Should be on schedule to flip by the end of the week.

Posted: **Tue Feb 20, 2018 5:40 pm**

Hull fairing isnt done yet, but went ahead and flipped it. Got the seams taped and was going to glass the inside but dont have enough resin. Since we glassed the whole outside we used more than needed, but while I was gone he added 2 layers of 1708 biaxial with mat to the transom...which of course used a ton of resin and wasnt something I had planned. Putting a 25hp 2 stroke on but looks like it will be big enough to handle a 125 now. lol Thurs we will glass in the stringers and bulkheads and attach the rubrail. When that cures we will flip again, finish the bottom. Was amazed at how light it was even with all that extra glass and resin.

Posted: **Tue Feb 20, 2018 6:07 pm**

johnstonjosh wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2018 5:40 pm Hull fairing isnt done yet, but went ahead and flipped it. Got the seams taped and was going to glass the inside but dont have enough resin. Since we glassed the whole outside we used more than needed, but while I was gone he added 2 layers of 1708 biaxial with mat to the transom...which of course used a ton of resin and wasnt something I had planned.

Looking good Josh! Nice looking laminating!
It's normal to use more resin when you build a boat with full glass.
That said, I would take your friend's keys to the warehouse away. No way this boat needs two extra layers of 1708 on the transom.

Posted: **Tue Feb 20, 2018 6:22 pm**

Its coming along pretty well. When I go back Thurs I will be bringing more epoxy, expanding foam and glass cloth. I am going to glass the deck and gunwales for added impact resistance. Just going to go with the 12oz on it. Maybe even 6oz. I will be adding more supports between the frames so not worried about flexing.

Posted: **Tue Feb 20, 2018 6:31 pm**

I'm not sure if you have seen my FS18 build?
I used 6 ounce glass on the sole, casting decks and gunwales.
It's a very solid boat.

Posted: **Tue Feb 20, 2018 7:15 pm**

Fully agree with guidance from AA!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:05 pm**

I'm in agreement with Richard. I used 6oz. woven on the decks, gunwales, and sole, and the boat is solid as a rock. No need to go any heavier, in fact you could get away with even lighter cloth on those areas and be fine.... That being said, I'd love to see the 115 on that baby!!! Looking really good so far, build on. Mike

Posted: **Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:34 pm**

@aripeka angler Your build looks awesome! I will go with the 6oz then.

Posted: **Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:40 pm**

seaslug wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:05 pm I'm in agreement with Richard. I used 6oz. woven on the decks, gunwales, and sole, and the boat is solid as a rock. No need to go any heavier, in fact you could get away with even lighter cloth on those areas and be fine.... That being said, I'd love to see the 115 on that baby!!! Looking really good so far, build on. Mike

Was totally joking about the larger engine.

There is about a 1/4 inch of glass on it now. I guess thats where all my resin went SMH

Posted: **Thu Feb 22, 2018 4:09 pm**

Glassed the inside with the rest of the 12oz I had. Once this cures will be installing the stringers and bulkheads.

Posted: **Fri Feb 23, 2018 5:29 am**

Did you test fit the frames at this point? The sides tend to bow outward, forcing the floor of the hull upwards. Being that it has been glassed now might affect that making it hard to get it back into a "fair" shape. This is why it is good to glue a rub rail on before the flip. It helps keep the shape.

Posted: **Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:10 am**

Yeah test fit the frames before. There was a little gap at the keel when it was upside down that I didn't notice before glassing. Once it was flipped we braced the bottom in the right places and it corrected the issue. Going to use ratchet straps to pull the sides in a bit when I install the frames. Then will do the rub rail. I made some uneven cuts on the sides and putting the rub rail on upside down would have made it harder to line up. Now that its flipped I can see the high and low spots.

Posted: **Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:37 am**

When you pull the sides in with ratchet straps you might create waves down the side of the boat. You can check with a batten laid along the top of the hull side. Unless the sides are badly splayed consider leaving the sides alone and epoxying in small pieces of plywood to fill the gaps. Once the frames are glassed in there will be no structural issues.

Posted: **Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:27 am**

It looks like we might not even need to use the ratchet straps very much at all there's only a very slight gap. Even though we didn't put the rub rail on we did some preliminary fairing and I think that stiffened up the hull enough to keep it mostly in shape

Posted: **Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:32 am**

Johnstonjosh,

Swglenn is correct. When you attempt to pull in the sides with ratchet straps you will more than likely create flat spots. An easy way to combat this is to install your rubrails first. This will help disperse the load evenly across the hull once you start to ratchet and eliminate any potential flat spots.

-Reid

Posted: **Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:56 am**

Will do.

Posted: **Fri Mar 02, 2018 12:15 am**

The build is close to being done! I had a pricey mistake though. I cut the forward deck out so I could get the 3rd piece of the transom cut. I thought i had left enough material...i didnt! OOPS. There was about an inch gap at either side. Rather than trying to fill it all in, I got another sheet of fir marine ply at a lumber yard in Cocoa that sells it. It was more expensive and nowhere near as nice as the Meranti. I scribed the curves by laying the sheet on top of the hull, then cut 1/4 inch inside that line to account for the hull thickness. Fits like a glove now!

All bulkheads are in, the stringers are getting glassed tomorrow and supports for the deck are mostly installed. I just need to start buying the accessories for it.

Posted: **Fri Mar 02, 2018 8:18 am**

Nice fix and sounds like it did not kill the bank!! Get us some photos this weekend!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Mar 02, 2018 4:19 pm**

I hope you are planning on glassing over that fir. While good stuff it does need glass on it to keep it from checking.
Your boat is looking good. I have noticed in some pictures there is a bronze tint to it

sort of different looking but I like it

Posted: **Sat Mar 03, 2018 5:42 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Fri Mar 02, 2018 4:19 pm I hope you are planning on glassing over that fir. While good stuff it does need glass on it to keep it from checking.
Your boat is looking good. I have noticed in some pictures there is a bronze tint to it sort of different looking but I like it

Yeah will be glassing the deck for abrasion reistance anyway. About the bronze...i was not around and the guy helping with the build decided to start fairing...he used the wood flour as the first coat! SMH. It eventually sanded down nice and cured really hard. I mean...it works but we have the fairing mix from the kit. Once it gets back to the fairing painting stage at least he wants to just use the mix for it. sanding down the woodflour was tough.

Posted: **Sat Mar 03, 2018 5:49 pm**

Well from my stand point he was not all wrong. I have been using wood flour, sometimes with cabosil mixed in, for a first pass fairing compound. My thought is a tough layer at first to lessen the softer fairing compound later is a good thing.

Posted: **Thu Mar 08, 2018 6:23 pm**

Entering the home stretch! Been getting a lot done but it doesnt look like it. Hit the stage where a lot of work doesnt look like much. All deck supports and sole supports are glued in, deck parts have been fitted and epoxied on the bottom, glassed on top, rub rails cut, and sole template is almost ready. Going to flip and finish the bottom, paint it, flip again and once thats done, it will just be a matter of installing the deck, foaming the hull and installing the sole. The trailer is waiting for the boat to go on!

Posted: **Thu Mar 08, 2018 7:58 pm**

Fast build!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Mar 09, 2018 8:54 am**

Right now the only things left are glueing down the deck, foaming the sole and installing it, and final fairing, primer and paint. Clocking in at just over 100 hrs. The next phase will definately take some time to make it all look nice.

Posted: **Thu Mar 15, 2018 2:41 pm**

updating some pics.

Posted: **Thu Mar 15, 2018 2:52 pm**

That is some fast building!!! Looks nice!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Mar 15, 2018 3:11 pm**

Already debating my next build! I like the FS14 LS but the FS18 fills that niche. The Playak looks cool, but I would really like a Phantom 18. Thinking I could add a rack for the playak to the FS18 Trailer. would take a bit of engineering but would be able to tow and store them both together.

Posted: **Thu Mar 29, 2018 12:12 am**

Painting tomorrow! Will post more pics soon. Should be set to flip and install the deck by tues. Estimating completion by April 8th. I need to get a motor but its hard finding a good pre owned 25hp long shaft tiller. I would love a new yamaha F25 or evinrude etec but cant afford it now. This was a fun, fast build! If the schedule holds it will have taken just over 4 1/2 months and under 150hrs to build.

Posted: **Thu Mar 29, 2018 3:41 pm**

Getting there!

Posted: **Thu Mar 29, 2018 3:47 pm**

Yes you are!! Nice, Jeff

Posted: **Sat Mar 31, 2018 5:53 pm**

Hull paint and graphite complete! Next I will be doing the edge of the rub rail black to give an accent and going to do a 1/4 inch grey or silver pin stripe along the waterline to give a transition between the white and black.
Will be flipping back over tues to glue the deck, sole and gunwales. Going monday to pick up a 25hp yamaha 2 stroke tiller. Excited!

Posted: **Sat Mar 31, 2018 10:55 pm**

Looking great. That 2 stroke tiller will work great with this boat.

Tom

Posted: **Sat Mar 31, 2018 11:06 pm**

TomW1 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 31, 2018 10:55 pm Looking great. That 2 stroke tiller will work great with this boat.

Tom

Thanks. Would love an Evinrude E-Tec or a yamaha F25 but an early 2000s 2 stroke will hold me over

Just going with a fixed bracket. I cut the transom flush with the rear deck so with the bracket I got I can mount a 20" shaft and not have to cut the transom down or cut a motor well in the back deck. I found a brass thru bulkhead fitting for the fuel line that will go through the back deck. Should work out nicely.

Posted: **Sun Apr 01, 2018 4:34 pm**

Ready to flip and finish! Hope we dont ding the paint!!

Posted: **Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:46 pm**

Nice! Looks like it is dressed in a tuxedo ready for a night on the town.

Posted: **Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:25 pm**

Browndog wrote: ↑Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:46 pm Nice! Looks like it is dressed in a tuxedo ready for a night on the town.

Lol. When stalking fish its important to look fancy

Posted: **Mon Apr 02, 2018 8:32 am**

Looking very sharp!

Is that your wood burning heater in the picture or were you grilling up some burgers?

Posted: **Mon Apr 02, 2018 10:47 am**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 8:32 am Looking very sharp!

Is that your wood burning heater in the picture or were you grilling up some burgers?

It's just a small Grill. Just picked up a 1999 25 horsepower Yamaha 2 stroke! Going to clean the carbs pull the impeller and check it and replace the spark plugs. It ran good as it is but I like to clean things up and put new stuff on to have a Baseline

Posted: **Mon Apr 02, 2018 1:05 pm**

[/quote]
Just picked up a 1999 25 horsepower Yamaha 2 stroke!
[/quote]

Those are great engines. I couldn’t find a two stroke Yamaha when I bought my engine.

Posted: **Mon Apr 02, 2018 5:04 pm**

I had to drive all the way from orlando to jacksonville to get it. The guy selling it wanted to sell it as a package with an old duck boat, but the trailer it was on had a bad axle and wouldnt have made it far. Was able to talk him into parting with it separately. Started first pull but bogs down a bit at higher rpm. Going to pull the carbs and clean them and replace the spark plugs.

Posted: **Tue Apr 03, 2018 7:02 am**

johnstonjosh wrote: ↑Mon Apr 02, 2018 10:47 am Just picked up a 1999 25 horsepower Yamaha 2 stroke! Going to clean the carbs pull the impeller and check it and replace the spark plugs. It ran good as it is but I like to clean things up and put new stuff on to have a Baseline

May consider changing the lower unit lube too.

Posted: **Tue Apr 03, 2018 5:04 pm**

Got the boat flipped over and on the trailer. First we got it to the floor onto some carpet, and rolled it over. Then raised the bow up and pushed the trailer under it, then used the winch to pull it the rest of the way up. Super easy and we didnt pull a muscle!
Got the Mini Jacker to mount the motor because Im out of funds and it will work for now. It was plain galvanized grey so I coated in epoxy spray enamel. Looks a lot better now. Then for the transition between the graphite coating and the white, I used a grey 1/4 inch pin stripe tape . Really cleaned up the line and blends the transition better.

Posted: **Tue Apr 03, 2018 7:09 pm**

Nice work!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Apr 10, 2018 4:57 pm**

Primary construction complete!!!! Just need to paint the decks and install the hatches and she will be ready to launch!! I ended up trimming the gunwales down to 6" instead of 8, and am very happy with the increased cockpit area. Its wide enough to sit on and walk across.

Posted: **Thu Apr 12, 2018 3:23 pm**

Finished priming the top. My helper was finishing the inside. Will be ready to paint shortly and should be 100% finished Tues. No splash date yet. Going to rebuild the carbs on the outboard first. I dont want any surprises out on the water.

Posted: **Thu Apr 12, 2018 9:00 pm**

New to forum question. Is straight sheer a squared off corner or something different?

Thanks

Guy

Posted: **Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:43 pm**

There are 2 versions, the standard, and the low shear/straight shear. The one I am building has slightly different dimensions in a few places so that the hull will sit flush with the deck. There is no toe rail. The standard version has a slight lip in the aft and a little more pronounced one at the bow. Here is one that someone made with the straight/low shear, and another with the standard layout. its a matter of preference.

Posted: **Thu Apr 12, 2018 11:26 pm**

Yes I see now thanks. How do you find out what designs are offered with variable sheer heights? I see on FS17 study plans about sheer variations but not on FS19. Wondering if OB19 is offered in low. I’ve got a question in to Jeff (webmaster I think).

Posted: **Wed Apr 18, 2018 6:59 pm**

GuyP wrote: ↑Thu Apr 12, 2018 11:26 pm Yes I see now thanks. How do you find out what designs are offered with variable sheer heights? I see on FS17 study plans about sheer variations but not on FS19. Wondering if OB19 is offered in low. I’ve got a question in to Jeff (webmaster I think).

Yeah they would be the best to tell...i think it mentions on the study plans for different boats if there are variations.

Posted: **Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:43 pm**

Painting finished and the surfaces are covered with non skid! Just have to screw and caulk the hatches and slap the motor on the back! @jeff when do I get that fancy Bateau Builder tag?

Posted: **Wed Apr 18, 2018 8:56 pm**

Looking really good!!

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 10:35 am**

Awesome job! I'd redo that front bunk on the trailer to give it some support. I did the same thing for mine when it was flipped on the strongback. It wore through some of the graphite with me moving it in and out of the garage. I didn't notice it until I flipped it to paint. Over time, it will do the same to yours when you drive it around.

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:23 am**

johnstonjosh, really nice work!! She looks great!! Gotta see her in the water, then title!! Again, really well done and quickly!! Have a good weekend, Jeff

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 1:27 pm**

Dutch1 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 20, 2018 10:35 am Awesome job! I'd redo that front bunk on the trailer to give it some support. I did the same thing for mine when it was flipped on the strongback. It wore through some of the graphite with me moving it in and out of the garage. I didn't notice it until I flipped it to paint. Over time, it will do the same to yours when you drive it around.

What do you suggest? The position can be move forward or aft as needed and I have a lot of extra boat carpet from another project to cover the wood with.

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 1:37 pm**

Jeff wrote: ↑Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:23 am johnstonjosh, really nice work!! She looks great!! Gotta see her in the water, then title!! Again, really well done and quickly!! Have a good weekend, Jeff

Thanks! She is all done now! Just gotta troubleshoot the outboard. I think one of the floats is stuck in the carb. I am going on vacation the first week of May and this week coming up is going to be too busy to do anything. Looking at a mid May splash date. Having an extra set of hands really helped speed up the project. Would have been faster but I had to keep my helper from doing too much while I wasnt there so I could make sure things were done the way I wanted them.

(He thinks the boat should be encased in 1708 biaxial needs at least 20 gallons of resin) SMH. Now thats its finished though he and everyone who comes by is amazed at how light and stiff the boat is.

I found the perfect spot to keep it parked too. (no room at my house) There is a 24 hr access parking place for boats right at the split between 50 and the 520 east of Orlando. It has 2 washdown stations and I can take it to the Mosquito lagoon or go south to Cocoa. The Banana River is looking like poo right now though. Brown algae is back and the fish are starting to choke.

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 6:10 pm**

Damn, just found out that the FL Fish and Wildlife inspection paperwork is going to take 2 months to process before I can Title it. Earliest I can get it done is May 14th, so looking like a mid July window for final paperwork

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 7:11 pm**

That’s not true. They come out, inspect it, fill out a paper and hand it to you. You then take it to the tag agency and fill out homemade boat form along with the paper fwc gives you. And the tag agency issues you a title and registration.

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 8:07 pm**

fishgitr wrote: ↑Fri Apr 20, 2018 7:11 pm That’s not true. They come out, inspect it, fill out a paper and hand it to you. You then take it to the tag agency and fill out homemade boat form along with the paper fwc gives you. And the tag agency issues you a title and registration.

I hope that is the case. The FWC guy I talked to today said it will take 2 months before i can register it since there is a wait...not sure if they are backlogged or he got it wrong.

Posted: **Sat Apr 21, 2018 12:20 am**

Call the dispatch number and they will send a unit to you.

Posted: **Sat Apr 21, 2018 7:25 am**

Fishgiter is right , he handed you back a form saying the boat was inspected you take that and your receipts
down and get it registered. Title will come in the mail when ever they get it done.

Posted: **Sat Apr 21, 2018 8:09 am**

Fishgitr is absolutely correct!!! The FWC guys are normally very easy to work with and I don’t think it has ever taken more than a couple of weeks following inspection and registration to receive your title!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sat Apr 21, 2018 9:01 am**

fishgitr wrote: ↑Sat Apr 21, 2018 12:20 am Call the dispatch number and they will send a unit to you.

The fwc guy is coming out may 14th. I was going on vacation next week so it all works out. If I have to wait for the title its no big deal. He was making it sound like I couldn't go to the DMV for 2 months to register it. I can hold off on the title.

Posted: **Sun Apr 22, 2018 9:47 am**

johnstonjosh wrote: ↑Fri Apr 20, 2018 1:27 pm
Dutch1 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 20, 2018 10:35 am Awesome job! I'd redo that front bunk on the trailer to give it some support. I did the same thing for mine when it was flipped on the strongback. It wore through some of the graphite with me moving it in and out of the garage. I didn't notice it until I flipped it to paint. Over time, it will do the same to yours when you drive it around.
What do you suggest? The position can be move forward or aft as needed and I have a lot of extra boat carpet from another project to cover the wood with.

Sorry, just now logging back in. I would use a bow roller or something similar. That carpet will get mashed to nothing if it isn't already. You could get one of these https://www.overtons.com/product/detail ... e&i=312887 or shape that piece of wood more to the shape of the hull and cover it with the carpet. Just try to spread out the load instead of it resting on a 2" by 1/2" piece of wood on the hull. There isn't as much weight there but it will get banged around as you drive it on the roads.

Posted: **Sun Apr 22, 2018 12:40 pm**

[/quote]

Sorry, just now logging back in. I would use a bow roller or something similar. That carpet will get mashed to nothing if it isn't already. You could get one of these https://www.overtons.com/product/detail ... e&i=312887 or shape that piece of wood more to the shape of the hull and cover it with the carpet. Just try to spread out the load instead of it resting on a 2" by 1/2" piece of wood on the hull. There isn't as much weight there but it will get banged around as you drive it on the roads.
[/quote]

I had been thinking of one of those. The trailer was made more for a flat bottom jon boat. I replaced the 6 ft main bunks with 8ft ones (there is still a ft to spare off the back) and it seems well supported. I am definitely going to have to secure the front more because with the motor on, I can almost pick up the bow with my fingers. Then again I havent added the battery or fuel tank yet, which will be forward of the B frame. That 25hp 2 stroke only weighs about 110lbs.

Posted: **Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:35 pm**

With great pleasure may I present my completed FS18 build! I learned a lot on this project, and have decided on a Phantom 16 for my next build. (probably next year) Having an extra set of hands definately sped things up (most of the time)
Total time to build, 212hrs with Primary Construction starting Jan 16 2018. I cut the wood in mid Dec but took a month to start building. Cant believe it only took 4.5 months! Cant believe I went from the first pic to these! Such a difference. Splash date to be determined...

Posted: **Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:46 pm**

johnstonjosh, she looks really nice!! Like the 25HP Yamaha as well. Send us some performance info once you have her in the water!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:52 pm**

Jeff wrote: ↑Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:46 pm johnstonjosh, she looks really nice!! Like the 25HP Yamaha as well. Send us some performance info once you have her in the water!! Jeff

Will do! With motor and fuel I calculated it weighs about 415lbs so still not too heavy. The yamaha only weighs about 110lbs. Should splash her mid May. I dont want to wait but its best not to rush things when it comes to being on the water.

Posted: **Tue Apr 24, 2018 5:39 pm**

Really good looking boat. That was fast build too! Good luck on splash day.

Posted: **Mon May 14, 2018 12:42 pm**

Got the boat inspected today by the FWC. I guess they changed the procedure/rules because he said it would take a month or 2 to get the inspection form back so I can register it. A lot of people were saying it was given back right away but thats no longer the case. he said because of a lot of damaged boats from the storms there was a ton of boats being stolen/recovered and trying to be passed off as home built. now they have to run it up the food chain and have someone higher sign it off. Next boat will be a 16 ft for sure so i dont have to do that again. The guy was super nice but didnt realize it would take that long before i can register

Posted: **Mon May 14, 2018 12:54 pm**

Josh, I really hate to hear that but we have been told by several folks more familiar with The Keys than us that guys (criminals) are transporting damaged (really badly damaged) boats further up to Central Florida, doing some repairs and then selling the boats without telling the new owners these boats were sunk in the last Florida hurricane!! Really bad characters out there and clearly hurting the registration process for all of us!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon May 14, 2018 3:33 pm**

Yeah the FWC officer said as much. There is a huge lake near me with good sized bass

I can do my water test there, no registration required since it doesnt connect to any waterways. Probably a safer bet too for the first time running this motor

Posted: **Mon May 14, 2018 4:17 pm**

johnstonjosh wrote: ↑Mon May 14, 2018 3:33 pm Yeah the FWC officer said as much. There is a huge lake near me with good sized bass I can do my water test there, no registration required since it doesnt connect to any waterways. Probably a safer bet too for the first time running this motor

Nice boat!

Exemptions from Registration
Non-motor powered vessels less than 16 feet in length.
Non-motor-powered canoe, kayak, racing shell or rowing scull regardless of length.

Vessels used exclusively on private lakes and ponds.

Vessels owned by the U.S. Government.
Vessels used exclusively as a ship’s lifeboat.
Vessels issued valid registration certificates and numbers by other states, provided the vessel is not stored or operated in state waters more than 90 days.

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:57 pm**

I was getting impatient so I called the FWC office to get an update on the paperwork. They told me they havent received any info on my inspection!? They told me that as soon as the officer sends it all over it shouldnt take long to get me the paperwork to take to the dmv. I got a call back later saying that the officer had forgotten to send it off but would get right on that. SMH Makes me almost want to just say its a 15 ft boat and go straight to the dmv

(wouldnt do that)

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 3:08 pm**

You are close!! Just a short while longer!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:15 pm**

Yeah just itching to take it out legally

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:21 pm**

Tow it around!!

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:50 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:21 pm Tow it around!!

lol. I have been! well not for fun though. The place i store it is 10 minutes away and when i need to do some work on it i bring it home. Stopped with it at a home depot and a guy offered to buy it.

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2018 3:00 pm**

Finally got everything in order! I took the boat to Lake Fairview this morning and did a quick test run with a friend. I estimate the boat weighs 450lbs with the motor (i used 12oz inside and outside up to the rubrails) but I used 4 gallons of expanding foam so even with us on there we were getting into 2- 3 inches of water and not scraping

we stuck close to the shoreline at first and poled it some then went out on the lake for a speed run. I didnt pull out the gps to track the speed but it moved fast with that 25hp 2 stroke

But then the motor died! After some diagnosing it looks like there is an air leak coming from the primer bulb. I had a backup 6 ft fuel line and bulb for emergencies, so i pulled the tank out, moved it closer to the motor and hooked the backup line on and we were back in business

I plan on taking the boat to Caladesi Island over near Clearwater next week and will report some numbers and more pictures.

Couldnt be happier with the end result and how helpful everyone has been.

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2018 3:11 pm**

Your boat really looked good when it was on land but MAN! It looks better on the water! Congrats on the splash!

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2018 3:16 pm**

Thanks! Next boat I wont do white...need sunglasses with that glare! Debating a poling platform for it...it was easy enough beside the motor but love the way they look.

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2018 3:23 pm**

Great looking skiff. Without motor, 250 plus?

Can't wait to feel the same on my FS14!

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2018 3:24 pm**

Just saw your FL numbers!!! So finally got them.

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2018 3:31 pm**

Thanks! The motor comes out to 105lbs. Using Meranti vs Okume and doing full glass got me to 350ish without the motor.
Finally got it all in order and numbered.

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2018 4:52 pm**

Congratulations and yes please, post some figures after the week-end.

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:42 pm**

Took the boat out for a spin with a friend to do some final tests. in light chop we hit 33mph with an estimated 900lbs worth of boat and people. Pretty much right on the estimate for that weight and hp combo! Got into some choppy conditions on the banana river and it cut right through it.

Here is a quick video. Enjoy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7umfDIYBeY

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:52 pm**

johnstonjosh, thank you for the update!! 33 MPH is quite fast but she did look good!! Did you get your registration? Jeff

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:18 pm**

Yeah that 2 stoke is nice! only weighs 105lbs. I had just rebuilt the carbs and changed the plugs. WOT hit 33, but backed down to about 75% was 25-28mph. We werent close to max weight and I didnt have the cooler with ice or all the fishing gear on board. My friend is not too heavy either. Got it registered and taken care of. It was just at a month before I got the packet back from FWC in the mail.

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:25 pm**

Good results!! Glad you got her registered and not too long to have had to wait!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 3:53 pm**

Thanks for posting the video. You can sure tell it is really hauling the mail

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 5:08 pm**

Sweet!! Look like when you ask her to go she went!

Is that a T H supply hatch on the bow and if it is how do you like it? I just ordered 2 with the same pull rings for my bait and live wells. If they work out I am getting 3 more of the 11"X15" size.

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:08 pm**

I like the clean deck layout.

I went with Tempress White 1317 Cam Hatch without Lock, 13 X 17.25 X 1.5. A bit more above deck then I wanted.

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:24 pm**

T H Supply hatches look the same but look like they have latch rings.
https://www.iboats.com/shop/media/catal ... 303122.jpg
This one (13"X24") may be for the live well and the smaller one I ordered is for the bait well (11"X15"). If I like them I will order 3 more of the smaller ones for the control valve locker, electrical locker and the aft anchor locker.

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:28 pm**

Capt. UB you could always add the vinyl carpet stuff on those decks.

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 10:23 pm**

My hatches are the seaflow cam hatches... http://a.co/2CmSveM

They stick up about a quarter inch...next time I will make my own hatches and have them flush. the can be walked on though. Mine also required a lot of 3m 4000 to seal because of the grooves underneath the hatch rim.

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 11:04 pm**

That is quite impressive getting 33mph out ot that 25hp 2st. Nicely done. Your boat is very nice.

Tom

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:25 am**

Thanks! There are no extra bells and whistles on the boat to add weight right now....no battery, hydraulic jack plate, trolling motor etc.. With the motor being freshly serviced, and not being at max weight those speed predictions were pretty spot on from what they planned
"Speed predictions:
Loaded at 1,000 lbs, with a 25 HP = 32 mph, with a 15 HP, 25 mph.
At 800 lbs, 28.5 mph with a 15 HP."

We were only getting about 30mph with one of us sitting on the bow but when we both sat aft, the bow would come out of the water enough so that only the flat section of the bottom was planing and pretty much flying the bow.

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 5:57 am**

johnstonjosh wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 10:23 pm My hatches are the seaflow cam hatches... http://a.co/2CmSveM

They stick up about a quarter inch...next time I will make my own hatches and have them flush. the can be walked on though. Mine also required a lot of 3m 4000 to seal because of the grooves underneath the hatch rim.

I will think.... about building flush deck hatches.. Hope I can find flat/flush hatches for my LM18.

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 6:00 am**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 8:28 pm Capt. UB you could always add the vinyl carpet stuff on those decks.

I am...

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 6:09 am**

Oh, I meant on the decks where the hatches are. The Aft deck and the fore deck. May be a pain to get a good seal.

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 6:26 am**

johnstonjosh wrote: ↑Wed Jun 20, 2018 10:23 pm My hatches are the seaflow cam hatches... http://a.co/2CmSveM

They stick up about a quarter inch...next time I will make my own hatches and have them flush. the can be walked on though. Mine also required a lot of 3m 4000 to seal because of the grooves underneath the hatch rim.

I could understand that if you mount them where you will do a lot of standing. Sticks up just enough to cause a stumble?

I am with you on building my own for the fore deck, they will see a lot of traffic.

Your boat does look good! And in your video you can hear when you opened the throttle that she responded nicely. Next step getting her accessorized?

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:26 am**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jun 21, 2018 6:09 am Oh, I meant on the decks where the hatches are. The Aft deck and the fore deck. May be a pain to get a good seal.

All flooring/decks will be covered.

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 10:17 am**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:26 am
OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jun 21, 2018 6:09 am Oh, I meant on the decks where the hatches are. The Aft deck and the fore deck. May be a pain to get a good seal.
All flooring/decks will be covered.

Ok. That would be a very clean, finished look. And be comfy on the bare feet.

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:37 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jun 21, 2018 10:17 am
Capt UB wrote: ↑Thu Jun 21, 2018 9:26 am
OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jun 21, 2018 6:09 am Oh, I meant on the decks where the hatches are. The Aft deck and the fore deck. May be a pain to get a good seal.
All flooring/decks will be covered.
Ok. That would be a very clean, finished look. And be comfy on the bare feet.

I hope to be able to tell you that in July. I have used it before on smaller decks.

Posted: **Fri Jun 22, 2018 9:56 am**

Congrats on the splash! Good looking boat. I’m biased too as my FS18 exterior paint color is quite similar.

I’m a bit jealous of your boats performance, but I’m happy with my 20 hp 4 stroke Suzuki.

Enjoy!

Posted: **Fri Jun 22, 2018 10:33 am**

Mikem59 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 9:56 am Congrats on the splash! Good looking boat. I’m biased too as my FS18 exterior paint color is quite similar.

I’m a bit jealous of your boats performance, but I’m happy with my 20 hp 4 stroke Suzuki.

Enjoy!

How do you like you 20hp Suzuki? I would like to put the 25hp on my FS14 build.

Posted: **Fri Jun 22, 2018 5:06 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 10:33 am How do you like you 20hp Suzuki? I would like to put the 25hp on my FS14 build.

Orange quest
I’m quite pleased with the Suzuki 20 hp. I wanted the 25 but if I recall, the 25 hp was nearly 20 lbs heavier. With trim tabs and an Atlas Micro Jacker jack plate also on the back I didn’t want the added weight of the 25.

With the stock prop, I was hitting the rev limiter and probably getting to 22 mph wot. I put on Powertech stainless steel SRT3R11P, a 9 1/2” prop with 11 pitch and I’m topping out at 25 - 26 mph depending on load.

The PT prop doesn’t have the hole shot of the stock prop but this boat pops up pretty easily anyway. I’ll add I’ve had a preference for Suzuki due to success in the past versus some undesirable results from another popular brand. I know a lot of folks over here in SE TX are high on the Tohatsu’s. I don’t know much about them.

Hope the info helps!

Posted: **Fri Jun 22, 2018 5:27 pm**

Mikem59 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 5:06 pm
OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 10:33 am How do you like you 20hp Suzuki? I would like to put the 25hp on my FS14 build.
Orange quest
I’m quite pleased with the Suzuki 20 hp. I wanted the 25 but if I recall, the 25 hp was nearly 20 lbs heavier. With trim tabs and an Atlas Micro Jacker jack plate also on the back I didn’t want the added weight of the 25.

With the stock prop, I was hitting the rev limiter and probably getting to 22 mph wot. I put on Powertech stainless steel SRT3R11P, a 9 1/2” prop with 11 pitch and I’m topping out at 25 - 26 mph depending on load.

He PT prop doesn’t have the hole shot of the stock prop but this but pops up pretty easily anyway. I’ll add I’ve had a preference for Suzuki due to success in the past versus some undesirable results from another popular brand. I know a lot of folks over here in SE TX are high on the Tohatsu’s. I don’t know much about them.

Hope the info helps!

Thank you for taking the time to give me a little feed back. I want the extra 5 ponies! The weight is an issue and can't seem to get an exact number on the 25hp. 153-173lbs with full trim/tilt and remote steer. I am planning on the heavier weight but would be nice if it was on the lighter side.

Posted: **Sat Jun 23, 2018 10:59 pm**

My 25hp yamaha 2 stroke is only 105 lbs, and has just the tiller. I am using a bracket instead of jack plate, but I cut my transom height at 17inches and the bracket adds an extra 3, which was perfect for the long shaft.

Updated performance info: loaded with 400lbs of passengers, 450lbs of boat/motor etc...and another 100lbs of gear/ice, coolers, suppies top speed WOT was only 30mph. still not too shabby

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 2:34 pm**

Launched from the Dunedin Causeway and took her to Caladesi Island! Even brought right up to the shore, the boat still wanted to float. Loaded up all the gear and poled out to water deep enough to drop the motor (even without a platform it was super easy) Time to start fishing!

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 2:55 pm**

That is one nice looking little boat. Simple and elegant. Like a little black dress with just white pearls.

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 3:27 pm**

Mikem59 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 5:06 pm
OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Fri Jun 22, 2018 10:33 am How do you like you 20hp Suzuki? I would like to put the 25hp on my FS14 build.
Orange quest
I’m quite pleased with the Suzuki 20 hp. I wanted the 25 but if I recall, the 25 hp was nearly 20 lbs heavier. With trim tabs and an Atlas Micro Jacker jack plate also on the back I didn’t want the added weight of the 25.

With the stock prop, I was hitting the rev limiter and probably getting to 22 mph wot. I put on Powertech stainless steel SRT3R11P, a 9 1/2” prop with 11 pitch and I’m topping out at 25 - 26 mph depending on load.

The PT prop doesn’t have the hole shot of the stock prop but this boat pops up pretty easily anyway. I’ll add I’ve had a preference for Suzuki due to success in the past versus some undesirable results from another popular brand. I know a lot of folks over here in SE TX are high on the Tohatsu’s. I don’t know much about them.

Hope the info helps!

You discovered the first rule of propeller choice. Hole shot vs speed. Also meeting the max rpm's vs over revving the motor.

Tom

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:15 pm**

Your finished boat looks fantastic, and I'm sure you'll love it as much as I love mine. Can't find a boat much shallower, or better for poling the flats. If it's wet you can fish it, and never have to worry about being stuck anywhere. post some fishing shots in the future.

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:33 pm**

I got a ton of compliments on it. Most people said the same thing..."wow that boat gets skinny!" When we were in water less than ankle deep and it was still floating along people were amazed at how a boat that size could run so shallow. Even stopping at the gas station drew attention. Its not as nice as some other builds, but it works great and suits my needs perfectly. If I had to do another, I would spend more time and do flush hatches and side mounted nav lights to clean up the front deck. The hatches I have dont get in the way though.

Posted: **Mon Jul 09, 2018 1:06 pm**

Just thought I would share this. Being strapped for cash I didnt have $500+ for a push pole. I saw that there were telescoping push poles like the Super Stick. I looked into a few poles and found that a common factor is an aluminum extension with fiberglass body. The aluminum is also not round but angled (octagonal or similar) While at Home Depot I found this gem https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-8-f ... 187303-_-N

It is 8-16ft, angled aluminum with fiberglass body and has positive locking, not twist lock and about $35! I spent another $5 or so buying some schedule 40 pvc fittings to make the foot. I removed the screw cap at the end (was only held on by 2 screws, and slipped my custom pvc foot on, and secured it with stainless bolts. I have found that is is plenty strong too! I have taken it out several times, and last time poled for over 30 minutes total. As long as I dont extend it all the way (leave about a ft or so) there is minimal flex.

All in all for $40 it gets the job done, and sits perfectly under the gunwales in a cutout in the frames when retracted. No expensive pole hanging off the boat while trailering, and no need for mounting brackets taking up space on the gunwales.

Posted: **Tue Jul 10, 2018 9:02 am**

Very cool, thanks for the post. A quick search shows my local HD has that in stock and it would be very handy on my SK14.

Dougster

Posted: **Tue Jul 10, 2018 9:18 am**

Very nice! Congratulations.

Posted: **Tue Jul 10, 2018 9:43 am**

What a great idea! Thanks for sharing!!

I modified a pool cleaning pole to make a boat hook but flexes a lot. It gets used a lot for log clearing and rescues.

Posted: **Tue Jul 10, 2018 10:41 am**

I looked at a few options on different forums....wooden closet dowels, bamboo, pvc and even metal conduit. After seeing a telescoping push pole I started looking at paint poles, and most of them had round extensions, but then found the one with the angled aluminum. The shape of the extension will resist bending, and having the positive locking is a huge plus. Trying to mess with a twist compression fitting while on the boat and with wet hands didnt seem practical, or like it would stay put under heavy poling. I figure if the $200 push pole has the same exact features, then there is no reason this wouldnt work. The foot is just a T fitting, 45 degree elbows and endcaps with small bits of pvc cut to length to join it up. You could buy a proper foot for them, but this works fine for hard sand and mud. I just cant use it to stake out.

Posted: **Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:04 am**

I bought the exact same pole, I use it for painting! It works great, so if you don't like the push pole you still have a good roller extension.

Posted: **Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:19 pm**

I have some unexpected expenses that have come up and it looks like I am going to have to sell my FS18 to cover it. Asking just $5k to get it moved quickly. You can see full details on my build thread and send me a pm if you are interested. The boat is in Orlando.

Took a quick video

$5k firm on the boat or will do $4500 without motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qF08-Ad9z20
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7umfDIYBeY

Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine Splashed 6/15!

My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine Splashed 6/15!

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