LM18 Round Chine Low Sheer

[Browndog]

To get a smooth finish on the epoxy with “poorman’s peel ply” the plastic has to be thick enough not to wrinkle up like most kitchen plastic wraps do. The plastic wrap is fine for a non stick surface, but the wrinkles are left behind in the epoxy surface when the epoxy hardens and in many cases create a worse finish than if it had not been used. A plastic sheet like Mylar can create an incredible smooth and glossy surface, but care must be taken to remove all of the air under the plastic sheet or it will leave a bubble causing a surface finish defect. How do I know these things? Because I’ve tried them all, because I hate sanding. What I’ve figured out is the best trick to get a smooth surface for a bright finish is usually one extra thin coat of epoxy and then sand until you are beyond sick of sanding. If a bright finish is not required, then the use of fairing compound, sanding, primer, and paint has given the smoothest final finish in my boat projects.

Vacuum bagging seems like it might solve some of the issues with proper preparation of breather films and peel ply. Wish there was someone here that could give a good demonstration or tutorial on it.

[Capt UB]

Browndog

Thanks, I'm going to try some plastic sheeting, on a NC16 I'm going to build. I'll see what I need to do then.

[Capt UB]

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[Eric1]

Get'r done!

[Capt UB]

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[OrangeQuest]

That thing looks a little old. Does it run? What is that dark looking stuff leaking from the water inlets? And does the skeg have a chip in it? Guessing that thing is coming apart?

[TomW1]

Don't worry about OQ that motor looks in fine shape. A 2 stroke is almost indestructible. I also don't see any thing on the Doel-Fin that will harm it's performance. I have an 1 1/2 inch chip out of mine and it doesn't hurt it at all.

Tom