Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:33 pm**

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2018 3:00 pm**

Got a great manual Bob's jack plate, 2.5/5 offset.
I now need a trailer and a 30-40 4 stroke OB.

And it will help to build the boat too...

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2018 3:08 pm**

Poling platform, the platform top weighs 200 lbs.!! Will rebuild it.

: 00c0c_3x2qtTYhtKh_600x450.jpg (30.25 KiB) Viewed 8516 times

: 00H0H_7AfsDt06Bee_600x450.jpg (29 KiB) Viewed 8516 times

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2018 6:36 pm**

As they say "some assembly required"

Have fun love to see one of these finished and running.

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2018 8:13 pm**

Some day soon you need to use that trailer to haul a boat to the water!!

While you are building the LM18 you could put the 30HP on the FS14!! To make sure it works!!

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:18 pm**

Well we will see another LM built in another year, since you have to finish your FS14 first. This will be a fun one to watch.

Tom

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:32 pm**

The FS14 is done.

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:37 pm**

Posted: **Mon Jun 18, 2018 6:03 pm**

Making me want to build another!

Posted: **Mon Jun 18, 2018 7:15 pm**

Posted: **Mon Jun 18, 2018 8:59 pm**

But, but, what about the little FS14?

Shouldn't it get in the water first?

Posted: **Mon Jun 18, 2018 10:33 pm**

: BobFS14launch.jpg (94.96 KiB) Viewed 1736 times

Getting the FS14 done. Everyday something get finished. Ya baby!

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 11:57 am**

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 2:41 pm**

Are you thinking of using peel ply on the LM18? It's a little late on the FS14 I thought.

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 3:20 pm**

I'm going to try heavy plastic sheeting on the NC16 and see how that works. Long sheets cut to the size of the panels. I will have to cleanup the seams.

2/22/2019
I did not use any sheeting. I would have needed 3 or 4 helpers to do it right!

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 3:40 pm**

Peter-curacao swears by poly peel ply.

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 4:52 pm**

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 8:19 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Thu Jun 21, 2018 4:52 pm
Marshall Moser wrote: ↑Thu Jun 21, 2018 3:40 pm Peter-curacao swears by poly peel ply.

Sorry don't know Peter-curacao.

Yep Bob you have not been on the Forum long enough to have followed Peter's CS25 build and his use of it.

Tom

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 11:36 pm**

His build thread is at the top of this power boat section.
Utube video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ENfKOC ... e=youtu.be
Spend a little time and watch the video. You may even want to read through his whole build thread.
It is a master class on how to build a boat right

Posted: **Fri Jun 22, 2018 6:05 am**

Pricing of Peelply.....!

Posted: **Fri Jun 22, 2018 7:13 am**

To get a smooth finish on the epoxy with “poorman’s peel ply” the plastic has to be thick enough not to wrinkle up like most kitchen plastic wraps do. The plastic wrap is fine for a non stick surface, but the wrinkles are left behind in the epoxy surface when the epoxy hardens and in many cases create a worse finish than if it had not been used. A plastic sheet like Mylar can create an incredible smooth and glossy surface, but care must be taken to remove all of the air under the plastic sheet or it will leave a bubble causing a surface finish defect. How do I know these things? Because I’ve tried them all, because I hate sanding. What I’ve figured out is the best trick to get a smooth surface for a bright finish is usually one extra thin coat of epoxy and then sand until you are beyond sick of sanding. If a bright finish is not required, then the use of fairing compound, sanding, primer, and paint has given the smoothest final finish in my boat projects.

Vacuum bagging seems like it might solve some of the issues with proper preparation of breather films and peel ply. Wish there was someone here that could give a good demonstration or tutorial on it.

Posted: **Fri Jun 22, 2018 9:10 am**

Browndog

Thanks, I'm going to try some plastic sheeting, on a NC16 I'm going to build. I'll see what I need to do then.

Posted: **Sat Jun 23, 2018 8:08 am**

Posted: **Sat Jun 23, 2018 10:35 am**

Posted: **Sat Jun 23, 2018 5:59 pm**

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 8:24 am**

Get'r done!

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 12:43 pm**

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 12:45 pm**

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 1:36 pm**

That thing looks a little old. Does it run? What is that dark looking stuff leaking from the water inlets? And does the skeg have a chip in it? Guessing that thing is coming apart?

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 4:48 pm**

Don't worry about OQ that motor looks in fine shape. A 2 stroke is almost indestructible. I also don't see any thing on the Doel-Fin that will harm it's performance. I have an 1 1/2 inch chip out of mine and it doesn't hurt it at all.

Tom

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 5:42 pm**

TomW1 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 24, 2018 4:48 pm Don't worry about OQ that motor looks in fine shape. A 2 stroke is almost indestructible. I also don't see any thing on the Doel-Fin that will harm it's performance. I have an 1 1/2 inch chip out of mine and it doesn't hurt it at all.

Tom

Sorry Tom being a guy that likes to take things apart I would not think twice about doing a little PM on a used motor I just got. The dark stuff coming out the water intake would make me wonder what it was and I would want to know. First I would smell it and see if it smells like fuel or gear oil. Big chunk of metal missing off the bottom of the motor I would want to know if the shaft is still true or is it bent and if the boot on the prop is still good.
Capt.UB said he is comfortable working on the older 2 strokes, figured he was getting this thing up so he could get a better look at it and see what he needs to do to it. You can see he already got the prop and that whale tail off. Besides I want him to put it on the FS14 and make it fly!!

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 6:33 pm**

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 7:17 pm**

If your 30 Yamaha is anything like the one I have it will be a great motor. I think them and the Johnson 15hp's are two of the strongest motors ever made pound for pound.

Posted: **Sun Jun 24, 2018 8:21 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Sun Jun 24, 2018 6:33 pm
As for the Yamaha 30ELG, it has been laying on the wrong side for a week in the back of my SUV. It was a throw in with the LM18 CnC Low Sheer kit and all the fiberglass cloth (he ordered more to cover the hull both sides), tape, MarinEpoxy (slow), fairing mix, wood flour and rollors...etc. $ 2000.00 for all

And yes Yam 30 runs, I have a lower unit I rebuit a few years ago that is made for that series of OBs. I also have a few props that will work. The motor itself is clean, smoked like hell on fire when I finally got it started. Compression same on all three cylinders, good charge output and does pee very well!

I did not drain the oil tank, so oil got in and all over.... After installing on stand I sparyed the whole outboard down with buster....

Sounds like you did a really good inspection of the motor and seems to be in good working order. Sounds like you got a good deal on everything.
And this confirms it!

Fuzz wrote: ↑Sun Jun 24, 2018 7:17 pm If your 30 Yamaha is anything like the one I have it will be a great motor. I think them and the Johnson 15hp's are two of the strongest motors ever made pound for pound.

Posted: **Mon Jun 25, 2018 6:53 am**

Posted: **Mon Jun 25, 2018 7:36 am**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Mon Jun 25, 2018 6:53 am Learn this now...

Until you run an Outboard on the water or in a test tank at full WOT, you will never know how good it is....

That's why I think to "test out the Yammi" you bolt it to the FS14 to make sure it's a strong motor! While the LM18 is still under construction.

Seriously, I couldn't agree with you more. Even in a test tank may not reveal everything. Had a V8 stern drive that after about 20 minutes of running you could faintly hear a lower end knock. Boat had been setting for more than 8 years. Engine cover collapsed around it. Pulled the engine apart and had a main bear spun and the cylinder walls pitted even though didn't smoke. Lucky was able to have the crank turned and the cylinders bored out 20 over. After that it ran very well. In the long run the teardown and overhaul was a lot cheaper than a replacement. It was my ex-father in-law's boat. I was making fairly good money at the time and wanted to BUY a new boat but the ex wouldn't have it. So I helped him rebuild his. He taught me a lot about bad choices when it comes to rebuilding something. May he rest in peace, we butted heads a lot about it. Finally bought it from him and babied it back to life.

Posted: **Wed Jul 25, 2018 10:09 am**

The FS14 is setup of a 9.8, I'm not going to try anything that may do damage to the hull. I love the 2 stroke Yam 25's and 30"s (non-oil injected, never had one). It does run, just needs some tlc on the outside.

Posted: **Fri Aug 10, 2018 9:46 am**

Well the FS14 build is coming to an end. I have lots of notes of what I did wrong and how I fixed it or replaced/removed the problem. And lots of notes on how to do things much better!!

This time going to build like I was coding (writing programming code), one line at a time from a (ladder logic-diagram) style list on a dry erasable board mounted on the carport wall.

Posted: **Fri Aug 10, 2018 10:16 am**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Fri Aug 10, 2018 9:46 am Well the FS14 build is coming to an end. I have lots of notes of what I did wrong and how I fixed it or replaced/removed the problem. And lots of notes on how to do things much better!!

This time going to build like I was coding (writing programming code), one line at a time from a (ladder logic-diagram) style list on a dry erasable board mounted on the carport wall.

Dang it Capt Bob you are starting to make sense!

But it is really a good idea. We use a dry erase board for problems employees have at events and I correct them when I come in and then erase them.

Posted: **Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:54 pm**

Hey Bob it sounds like you have a plan.

Remember the LS18 is a technical skiff designed for one thing. So build it as designed and then make some changes in the cockpit to accommodate you and your wife on your sight seeing trips. That cockpit is large and gives you a lot of room to make it yours.

Tom

Posted: **Sat Aug 11, 2018 7:10 am**

TomW1 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 10, 2018 8:54 pm Hey Bob it sounds like you have a plan. Remember the LS18 is a technical skiff designed for one thing. So build it as designed and then make some changes in the cockpit to accommodate you and your wife on your sight seeing trips. That cockpit is large and gives you a lot of room to make it yours.

Tom

Tom and OQ,

Going to build to plans.

I'm going to use Peel ply on the top panel hull sides, 18'x12". I'm saving now for the Peel Ply.

The bottom will be getting the hard bottom mix. BUT NOT WITH GRAPHITE, but with Hexagonal Boron Nitride, hBn powder, white graphite. Saving up for that Too!

The whole bottom panels with be covered with three coats of hBn/epoxy mix, no need to crazy on fairing these panels.

Going to paint the hull jade green, hunter green, hinckley green, one of these dark greens.

Bob.

Posted: **Sat Aug 11, 2018 7:41 am**

You might want to check my build thread on the HBN. It's completely transparent at a 25% mix, so I abandoned it and went back to graphite. I even tried 5% white pigment mix. If you do go this route you would need to have a perfect white base under it.

Posted: **Sat Aug 11, 2018 9:56 am**

silentneko wrote: ↑Sat Aug 11, 2018 7:41 am You might want to check my build thread on the HBN. It's completely transparent at a 25% mix, so I abandoned it and went back to graphite. I even tried 5% white pigment mix. If you do go this route you would need to have a perfect white base under it.

silentneko, thanks for the heads up.

What brand or were did you get yours from?

I have read a few threads on hBn in the kayak forums. They seem to like it. I think I did read your post, I did not know much about the stuff at the time.

Bob.

Posted: **Sat Aug 11, 2018 10:57 am**

I'll check on it later, I think I bought a pound and it was like $70. In order for you to get it to where it will look good you need to fair the bottom, and do several coats of an epoxy primer until it is completely smooth and even. Then apply the HBN/epoxy mix.

Kayakers like it because they store the kayaks upside down. The white doesn't heat up as bad as the black graphite. On a trailered boat it's just cosmetic.

Posted: **Tue Aug 14, 2018 7:26 am**

Just going to use the Peel Ply on the black dotted area of the hull, that is just the sides. Bottom will have the BBC graphite/epoxy mix. The hull will be painted Gloss Lite Sand.

Posted: **Sat Aug 18, 2018 1:56 pm**

After a lot of thought, I'm going to use Nautolex Marine Vinyl Flooring - 74" Wide on the deck and sole. Just too much work to fair it out nice. The top part of the hull will get a lot of attention and Peel Ply. Bottom will be BBC graphite/MarinEpoxy.

.
.
This is the color of the non-skid vinyl, Sisal warm.
.
.

: 619 MMlc-FL._AC_SY400_.jpg (51.1 KiB) Viewed 2224 times

Posted: **Tue Aug 28, 2018 9:31 am**

Looking into a teak coaming, the teak molding pieces are off the shelf.

: download.jpg (7.51 KiB) Viewed 2170 times

Posted: **Mon Sep 17, 2018 2:25 pm**

Thanks to wegcagle...

Got the Jack plate, it's a Bob's Convertable MJ5 2.5″ or 5″ setback manual jack plate :200 HP MAX.

: 1-22.jpg (18.17 KiB) Viewed 2096 times

Posted: **Mon Sep 17, 2018 7:23 pm**

It’s the 5” setback. Hope it’s not too much for her!

Also, I used the jade green paint from interlux perfection. Can’t speak highly enough of it! Looked amazing 5 years later (garage kept when off the water for full disclosure). I’ll use perfection again for sure.

Will

Posted: **Wed Sep 19, 2018 8:20 pm**

wegcagle wrote: ↑Mon Sep 17, 2018 7:23 pm It’s the 5” setback. Hope it’s not too much for her!

Also, I used the jade green paint from interlux perfection. Can’t speak highly enough of it! Looked amazing 5 years later (garage kept when off the water for full disclosure). I’ll use perfection again for sure.

Will

Will,
Thank you! This JP will be perfect for the Laguna Madre 18. I thought you painted it green! It's the hull you painted.
Thanks again,
Bob.

Posted: **Sat Sep 22, 2018 2:55 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:33 pm Found a great deal on a Poling platform this afternoon...
$ 200 and it will work on the Laguna Madre 18. The legs need to be cut down so platform sits level on aft deck. It's tall and wide. Don't have a motor yet or the boat built yet!

0922181357f.jpg0922181400.jpg
0922181357d.jpg

Posted: **Sun Sep 23, 2018 7:08 pm**

Posted: **Wed Sep 26, 2018 7:15 am**

Some ideas I used on my Gheenoes...

Grab bar mounted to the side with rad holder and junk holder...

Instead of mounting in the middle of the center bench, which you have to move to the right or left of it to go anywhere on the boat... Worked great!!

: 036.jpg (102.67 KiB) Viewed 881 times

: 028.jpg (101.62 KiB) Viewed 881 times

Posted: **Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:35 pm**

I'm looking into building the LM18 for remote steering and controls, but will only have a tiller outboard at first. I will add a console later with the new OB. What should or can I do to be able to switch over later.

I think the Standard Short Console plans would work. I don't need a seat in front.

I will be using a jackplate and a short shaft both times.

Posted: **Sat Nov 17, 2018 8:34 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:35 pm I'm looking into building the LM18 for remote steering and controls, but will only have a tiller outboard at first. I will add a console later with the new OB. What should or can I do to be able to switch over later.

If it were my boat, I would go ahead and build the console and put in the remote steering chase tubes to the motor and battery compartments.
Run your tiller motor at first and use the console to hang onto.
Much easier this way to convert to remote steering, imho...

Posted: **Sat Nov 17, 2018 9:07 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:35 pm
I think the Standard Short Console plans would work. I don't need a seat in front.

If you remember the photo I posted of the mock up console I put on the front of my FS14? That is from the short standard console plans. I decreased the width some but it will give you an idea of it's size. The plans have foot notes that you don't get in the "how to" section.
I am 5'10" and standing "at the helm" is very comfortable.

Posted: **Sun Nov 18, 2018 6:55 am**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Sat Nov 17, 2018 9:07 pm
Capt UB wrote: ↑Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:35 pm
I think the Standard Short Console plans would work. I don't need a seat in front.

If you remember the photo I posted of the mock up console I put on the front of my FS14? That is from the short standard console plans. I decreased the width some but it will give you an idea of it's size. The plans have foot notes that you don't get in the "how to" section.
I am 5'10" and standing "at the helm" is very comfortable.

I will go back and look at it. Thanks OQ.

Posted: **Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:54 pm**

Well after a few days of Hell.....

Looks like I maybe (health wise) able to build my strong back this coming week. Atlest get the the 2x8 and start.

Posted: **Thu Dec 13, 2018 9:58 pm**

Just thinking.... A center console tiller OB....
For gauges (fuel, battery and speed) and holding GPS fish/depth finder.... etc.

: images.jpg (5.97 KiB) Viewed 1140 times

: 2018-12-13-21-51-26--247094653.jpg (7.76 KiB) Viewed 1140 times

Posted: **Fri Dec 14, 2018 5:49 am**

Does seem to make sense. Just the idea of having a place for gauges and the grab bar makes perfect sense.

Posted: **Fri Dec 14, 2018 6:14 am**

plus start button and kill switch for safety. lights and stereo bluetooth speakers

Posted: **Mon Dec 31, 2018 6:59 pm**

Still in pain from Shingles... just the left shoulder, 24/7!!

Starting the LM18 Low Sheer Round Chine.

Starting the strongback and roll around deck. 2x8's and screws.....

This LM18 is a long boat! Carport is 10x20....

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 6:44 am**

Looking forward to your build!

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 7:48 am**

Glad to see you have started Capt UB!!! Hope you are fully recovered soon!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:43 am**

Nice stack of wood!

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:47 am**

Hope those shingles clear up for you soon!

Looking forward to seeing this build

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 12:03 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:43 am Nice stack of wood!

More on the way..... No help at this Lowes for the one arm old guy!!!
Took me more then one hour to find these straight 2x8x16!!!! I just left the ones I did not want on the floor!!

You guys keep sending us your weather..... Rain this Friday.... FROM TEXAS!!!

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 12:04 pm**

Eric1 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 6:44 am Looking forward to your build!

Thanks Eric, glad you are back to working on your boat.

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 12:08 pm**

Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 7:48 am Glad to see you have started Capt UB!!! Hope you are fully recovered soon!! Jeff

Thanks Jeff. Today was the first day of no pain on/in the shoulder.... Still feel the GHOST BUGS crawling around my neck, back and shoulder, Damn dead nerves.

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 12:10 pm**

piperdown wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:47 am Hope those shingles clear up for you soon!

Looking forward to seeing this build

Thanks Eric. Like I wrote to Jeff, first day of no pain in my shoulder!!

This is a big boat for a small carport!!

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 12:31 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 12:03 pm
OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:43 am Nice stack of wood!

More on the way..... No help at this Lowes for the one arm old guy!!!
Took me more then one hour to find these straight 2x8x16!!!! I just left the ones I did not want on the floor!!

You guys keep sending us your weather..... Rain this Friday.... FROM TEXAS!!!

That is why I am happy there is a REAL lumberyard less than a mile from my warehouse.

The weather is coming out of Mexico, we just add more moisture to it and then call it Tex-Mex!

Glad you are feeling better! Did you ever get to test it again after lowering the motor?

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 2:31 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 12:31 pm
Capt UB wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 12:03 pm
OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:43 am Nice stack of wood!

Glad you are feeling better! Did you ever get to test it again after lowering the motor?

Thanks, it's good to be able to use the arm again!

It's my left arm, that's hurt. That's also my tiller arm! So I have not taken the boat out for the final lower OB test.. Maybe this Sunday..... Film at 11 !!

Posted: **Fri Jan 04, 2019 7:25 am**

Finally feel up to the build completely...

More 2x8's and plastic sheeting for the carport floor.

Got the wheels last year so I can roll the build out of the carport.

Still lots of sanding on the CnC parts and gluing pieces together.

Not sure if Mc-Fly sold me fast hardener or not. I do like using the slow, but have at times wished I had some fast hardener.

Time to inventory what I have again and maybe a call to BBC for stock....

Posted: **Fri Jan 04, 2019 8:33 am**

I bought fast hardener last winter but by the time I was really using epoxy it had already warmed up enough to use medium. So I would use the fast for small batches like wetting out my frames and added glass before gluing them in the boat. Could do it all in the same day, sand and install the next day. You really have to be fast though if it's to warm outside and you are mixing the wood flour for glues or fillets. That is when I started using Fallguy's method of spreading it out on a large surface to extend the pot time. Doesn't take to many times of the pot cup smoking in your hand to learn what not to do.

Maybe working on the LM18 will take your mind off your back and arm.

Posted: **Fri Jan 04, 2019 6:18 pm**

Posted: **Fri Jan 04, 2019 10:07 pm**

This is a lot cheaper and very effective. This is a small list of the benefits:

Posted: **Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:28 pm**

Strongback ready for wheeled base.

Posted: **Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:07 pm**

Way to go Capt. UB! Already looking good!

Did the Sand Piper see any water this weekend?

Posted: **Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:47 pm**

I like the idea of poling a boat. Never done that although I've been on a boat in LA that someone else poled. Pretty cool. Around here I'm going to have to stick to rowing.

Posted: **Sun Jan 06, 2019 6:33 pm**

terrulian wrote: ↑Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:47 pm I like the idea of poling a boat. Never done that although I've been on a boat in LA that someone else poled. Pretty cool. Around here I'm going to have to stick to rowing.

It's done worldwide.... Poling...
Poled boat race, Tubingen, Germany
The poled boat race on river Neckar Stocherkahnrennen, is a famous event in Tubingen Tuebingen, Germany.

Posted: **Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:19 pm**

OK CUB. You're old enough to build an LM18. Happy 60th birthday!

Posted: **Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:11 pm**

Capt UB, Happy Birthday!!!! Congrats on the start as well!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:47 pm**

Happy birthday Capt UB! Hope you made it a 3 day weekend.

Posted: **Tue Jan 08, 2019 9:26 am**

Thanks all, great being an old fart now!

Just a note on this build, don't know how the round chine looks compared to the graphic. Not much freeboard to keep the sharks away, or gators!

Posted: **Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:49 pm**

glossieblack wrote: ↑Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:19 pm OK CUB. You're old enough to build an LM18. Happy 60th birthday!

I do believe when I hit 60 Glossie invited me into the CLOOF club. I had to ask and learned that stands for clapped out old fart

Posted: **Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:55 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:49 pm
glossieblack wrote: ↑Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:19 pm OK CUB. You're old enough to build an LM18. Happy 60th birthday!
I do believe when I hit 60 Glossie invited me into the CLOOF club. I had to ask and learned that stands for clapped out old fart

Thanks Fuzz.

Good to know I can still join a few more clubs!

Posted: **Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:26 pm**

Wanted to see what she would look like.....

Still working on roll a round base.

Posted: **Tue Jan 08, 2019 9:32 pm**

Happy birthday a day late captain! I’m not far behind you.

Nice to see you are underway on the boat...

Posted: **Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:01 am**

Very exciting to see you start your LM18!! It looks like it will fit under the carport but do you have room to work on it? The Sand Piper looks so forgotten in the background.

I bought a flat bottom boat cover from Academy to cover the hull of the FS14 up when we went to Chicago and brought it back. I got the one with all the straps and it held up great. At times my spare driver was hitting 80MPH while I was trying to sleep. Point is you can tighten the straps down enough for the water to roll off it if it rains with no pooling. It was somewhere around < $70.00

I think

Posted: **Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:23 am**

Wow CaptUB you are ambitious!

OQ, I could use a form fitting tarp like that too. Early on it was a pain in the but to keep the water from pooling and sinking my tarp into the boat. I've got it figured out now.

Posted: **Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:16 am**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:01 am Very exciting to see you start your LM18!! It looks like it will fit under the carport but do you have room to work on it? The Sand Piper looks so forgotten in the background.

I bought a flat bottom boat cover from Academy to cover the hull of the FS14 up when we went to Chicago and brought it back. I got the one with all the straps and it held up great. At times my spare driver was hitting 80MPH while I was trying to sleep. Point is you can tighten the straps down enough for the water to roll off it if it rains with no pooling. It was somewhere around < $70.00 I think

Thanks, will get one. I was going to build a tent with sides in the backyard, but thought better of it.

SandPiper is just fine. She will see water this weekend.

Posted: **Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:17 am**

Bogieman wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:23 am Wow CaptUB you are ambitious!

OQ, I could use a form fitting tarp like that too. Early on it was a pain in the but to keep the water from pooling and sinking my tarp into the boat. I've got it figured out now.

Photos on what you did......

Posted: **Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:54 am**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:17 am
Bogieman wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:23 am Wow CaptUB you are ambitious!

OQ, I could use a form fitting tarp like that too. Early on it was a pain in the but to keep the water from pooling and sinking my tarp into the boat. I've got it figured out now.
Photos on what you did......

I inserted a 2x4 vertically into the slot in the keel trunk then put a plastic Tupperware bowl on top of the 2x4 (like a hat) to eliminate the sharp edge, then put the tarp on and strapped her down. Works great and it only cost me $20.

Posted: **Fri Jan 11, 2019 4:31 pm**

Strongback on roll around base done. Ready for stations setup in morning.

Posted: **Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:10 pm**

Nice!

Posted: **Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:23 pm**

Bogieman wrote: ↑Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:10 pmNice!

It's heavier then the finished boat!

Posted: **Fri Jan 11, 2019 8:13 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:23 pm
Bogieman wrote: ↑Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:10 pmNice!
It's heavier then the finished boat!

I bet it is. That thing looks big!

Posted: **Sat Jan 12, 2019 1:26 pm**

Glued up transom pieces. The CnC transom comes with cutouts for the stringer and knees, just the inside piece. The transom outside top edge, was off.... More work for me later. I'll use my router to quickly fix that. Starting to cutout CnC stringer pieces to glue up today.

Posted: **Sat Jan 12, 2019 1:30 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:01 am Very exciting to see you start your LM18!! It looks like it will fit under the carport but do you have room to work on it? The Sand Piper looks so forgotten in the background.

I bought a flat bottom boat cover from Academy to cover the hull of the FS14 up when we went to Chicago and brought it back. I got the one with all the straps and it held up great. At times my spare driver was hitting 80MPH while I was trying to sleep. Point is you can tighten the straps down enough for the water to roll off it if it rains with no pooling. It was somewhere around < $70.00 I think

OQ
What model # is your cover for your FS14. I'm going to buy one this weekend, online or at the store.
Thanks, Bob.

Posted: **Sat Jan 12, 2019 2:00 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 1:30 pm
OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:01 am Very exciting to see you start your LM18!! It looks like it will fit under the carport but do you have room to work on it? The Sand Piper looks so forgotten in the background.

I bought a flat bottom boat cover from Academy to cover the hull of the FS14 up when we went to Chicago and brought it back. I got the one with all the straps and it held up great. At times my spare driver was hitting 80MPH while I was trying to sleep. Point is you can tighten the straps down enough for the water to roll off it if it rains with no pooling. It was somewhere around < $70.00 I think
OQ
What model # is your cover for your FS14. I'm going to buy one this weekend, online or at the store.
Thanks, Bob.

I don't have the box anymore but it says "B" on the cover. I thought I paid close to $70.00 for it but I found it online for less.
https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/marine ... atid=11182
This one is 150 denier marine-grade fabric but for closer to $80.00 you can get it with 300 denier.
We put the cheap one on before we left Chicago and like I said, at times was going 80mph with it. Once I got it to Houston I didn't see any rips or damage of any kind. I would keep it on the boat in the warehouse due to the inside of the boat was still bare wood and the warehouse would leaks on it when it rains. But since I have the hull (inside) coated with glass I don't put it back on.

I did put some foam on the bow to keep the sharp tip of the bow from poking through it. It has a very stiff bungee that runs through the bottom, I put a carabiner to hold the ends together and then just put it over the boat like a fitted sheet. Then clipped all the straps where they tighten on the same side. I ran the straps under the trailer tongue and bunks because the straps are really long. Once in Houston I cut off the extra and melted the ends so they wouldn't fray.

For keeping the water from pooling I tighten the back straps first and then starting at the front tighten each strap. Crank up the trailer so water runs off the back.

Posted: **Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:57 pm**

Thanks OQ.

Posted: **Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:59 pm**

Got the stringers glued up... Damn things are long!

Posted: **Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:00 pm**

Seems odd that the cnc cuts would be off like that

Posted: **Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:08 pm**

piperdown wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:00 pm Seems odd that the cnc cuts would be off like that

Two are the same, it's the one with cutouts for the stringers/knees that is different. Also, The two do not have the same curve on the top as the one.

No problem, thats what routers are for.. cleanup!
Plus a jackplate is going on the transom.

Posted: **Sat Jan 12, 2019 5:13 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:08 pm
piperdown wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:00 pm Seems odd that the cnc cuts would be off like that

Two are the same, it's the one with cutouts for the stringers/knees that is different. Also, The two do not have the same curve on the top as the one.

No problem, thats what routers are for.. cleanup!
Plus a jackplate is going on the transom.

Too true on the router!
I certainly enjoy following along with your builds Capt!
If we could get some warm weather I might be able to get back to my GF16.

Posted: **Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:32 pm**

Ok, got things going... Back on track, no more silly shit!!!

YOU DO NOT PUT A ROUTER BIT ON YOUR BATTERY POWDERED DRILL AND EXPECT IT TO NOT F#!÷K UP THINGS!!!

Frames/molds at stations with stringers in place. Need to cleanup frames and stringers before adding hull panels.

Posted: **Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:48 pm**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:32 pm YOU DO NOT PUT A ROUTER BIT ON YOUR BATTERY POWDERED DRILL AND EXPECT IT TO NOT F#!÷K UP THINGS!!!

Please please please tell us there’s video to watch!

Posted: **Tue Jan 15, 2019 2:21 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:01 am Very exciting to see you start your LM18!! It looks like it will fit under the carport but do you have room to work on it? The Sand Piper looks so forgotten in the background.

I bought a flat bottom boat cover from Academy to cover the hull of the FS14 up when we went to Chicago and brought it back. I got the one with all the straps and it held up great. At times my spare driver was hitting 80MPH while I was trying to sleep. Point is you can tighten the straps down enough for the water to roll off it if it rains with no pooling. It was somewhere around < $70.00 I think

This is what I ordered from Amazon, MSC Heavy Duty 600D Marine Grade Polyester Canvas Trailerable Waterproof Boat Cover. Model B - Length:14'-16' Beam width: up to 90" (Fit V-hull runabouts (outboards and I/O) and aluminum bass boats with beam width to 90”) This heavy duty boat cover designed for both long-term storage, mooring and highway travel.

Should be here on the 21 of Jan.

Posted: **Tue Jan 15, 2019 2:22 pm**

Jaysen wrote: ↑Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:48 pm
Capt UB wrote: ↑Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:32 pm YOU DO NOT PUT A ROUTER BIT ON YOUR BATTERY POWDERED DRILL AND EXPECT IT TO NOT F#!÷K UP THINGS!!!
Please please please tell us there’s video to watch!

Sorry no video!

Posted: **Tue Jan 15, 2019 3:34 pm**

Wow! That should last you a long time. With it being canvas keep it sprayed down with a UV protectant if it will be exposed to UV a lot.

Posted: **Tue Jan 15, 2019 6:32 pm**

300 wire ties.... small size, but heavy duty. Cutting PVC pipe for the backing.

Posted: **Tue Jan 15, 2019 6:46 pm**

Just hope that is enough!

Posted: **Tue Jan 15, 2019 7:04 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Tue Jan 15, 2019 6:46 pm Just hope that is enough!

These are used in space! -80°f to 200°f

Last time so many just broke!

Posted: **Sat Jan 19, 2019 9:12 am**

Weather is holding, letting sun get up and warm the ply and air to 72 plus. Just maybe able to glue up puzzle joints on the hull planels today.

The cutouts for the round chine are not on the same side!

I had on cutting them out after laying hull panels on mold... Just easier, but no problem....

Will adapt.....

Posted: **Sat Jan 19, 2019 1:11 pm**

74° MarinEpoxy's slow hardener doing fine!!!

Little wood flour and MarinEpoxy for glue....
Puzzle joints done.

Posted: **Sat Jan 19, 2019 4:42 pm**

Capt UB!! Nice work!! We will get back to you on the question!! Again, nice weather and progress!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Jan 21, 2019 7:05 am**

Got the Stringers sanded and cleaned up.

Transom sanded and installed on the strongback, it needed to be shaped on the bottom and sides, CnC was off by 3/4"! I'll deal with the top curve when I flip the hull, it to was off by 1/2" (three boards glued together, two the same (they were bigger) and the inside board was cut right.

The slots in the molds and frames for the stringers were not the same! Some were wider apart, router took care of that problem.

Started setup of molds and frames, changed from what was done earlier, 1/2" higher and straighter. Big difference between CnC measurement and non-CnC measurements on plans, mostly Metric vs. Standard. I'm only using metric. Not sure what the programming code for the CnC uses....

More to come....

Posted: **Mon Jan 21, 2019 7:44 am**

I am very confused!

Not really understanding what is going on with your build Capt. UB? You seem to have everything lined up nicely but the cuts in the panels flipping back and forth are very confusing. I understand why the cuts are there just not why they are not on the same side.

You seem to be making the most of it so you must have a good game plan. I assume you have to finish cutting the slots out and as you get to the end of one panel have to flip it over to complete the cut? I must be missing something.

Posted: **Mon Jan 21, 2019 9:42 am**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Mon Jan 21, 2019 7:44 am I am very confused! Not really understanding what is going on with your build Capt. UB? You seem to have everything lined up nicely but the cuts in the panels flipping back and forth are very confusing. I understand why the cuts are there just not why they are not on the same side.
You seem to be making the most of it so you must have a good game plan. I assume you have to finish cutting the slots out and as you get to the end of one panel have to flip it over to complete the cut? I must be missing something.

OQ,

The frames and the two molds were cut by CnC, when I first laid up the frames and molds on the strongback, I just stuck them there. The next day I noticed the stringers were curved, two of the frame's slots for the stringers were not inline with the rest. I had to widen the slots to straighten the stringers. ** If you lay the frames and molds on top of each other the slots will be in the same place.

Sorry just reread your post...

The hull panels, I don't want to cut the round chine slots out until the panels are on the hull/frames. I don't have much room and very little help, so by not cutting the slots, helps keep the integrity of the panels when installing them. ** You would think the slots would be on the same side anyway! Remember these panels (three panels glued together with puzzle joints) are about 18 ft. long and 14 in. tall, very flexible!

Posted: **Mon Jan 21, 2019 11:51 am**

Oh, ok! That makes sense as far as not cutting the slots out till you have them supported better and limited help.
You don't seem to be letting a few mishaps slow you down. Like I stated, don't see you going forward without a well thought out game plan.

Any more sea trials of the Sand Piper?

Posted: **Mon Jan 21, 2019 12:45 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Mon Jan 21, 2019 11:51 am Oh, ok! That makes sense as far as not cutting the slots out till you have them supported better and limited help.
You don't seem to be letting a few mishaps slow you down. Like I stated, don't see you going forward without a well thought out game plan.

Any more sea trials of the Sand Piper?

Ran great, lowering the OB 2" did the trick. Steering is better and goes on plane faster. I did not have my GPS with me for speed. But over all she handled so well over waves and chop! I'm not going to do anymore to her other then a Bimini top.

Posted: **Tue Jan 22, 2019 6:16 pm**

Posted: **Tue Jan 22, 2019 6:36 pm**

Maybe I’m missing something because I don’t have the plans... how do you make the chine if you glue up now? Only a partial glue up?

Posted: **Tue Jan 22, 2019 8:24 pm**

Jaysen wrote: ↑Tue Jan 22, 2019 6:36 pm Maybe I’m missing something because I don’t have the plans... how do you make the chine if you glue up now? Only a partial glue up?

Not gluing up yet, first wire ties then then cut out the chine slots..... then glue.

Bateau did the CnC slots wrong.

Posted: **Tue Jan 22, 2019 8:37 pm**

I saw the slots are flipped. It will be interesting to see you pull that together

Posted: **Wed Jan 23, 2019 5:51 am**

This is only on the CnC kit.

Just thought about the transom slots for the stringers/knees!!!!

They do not work... When you go to tape and add cloth to the inside, the slots will get filled in...

Going to fillin slots and glass the stringers/knees in like other builds.

: file~3.jpg (39.26 KiB) Viewed 827 times

Posted: **Wed Jan 23, 2019 6:17 am**

If you glass the transom then while the glass is still green you can cut the slots open again with a razor knife.

Posted: **Wed Jan 23, 2019 7:06 am**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 6:17 am If you glass the transom then while the glass is still green you can cut the slots open again with a razor knife.

WHY?
The slots are not deep enough to add anything and the slots are too wide as is, AND the mess of cutting tape and cloth...WET!!!

There will be one layer of tape and cloth, maybe two of the cloth inside at the joining point of the transom and hull. Easier to do like I did with my FS14.

Posted: **Wed Jan 23, 2019 8:53 am**

Capt UB wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 7:06 am
OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 6:17 am If you glass the transom then while the glass is still green you can cut the slots open again with a razor knife.

WHY?
The slots are not deep enough to add anything and the slots are too wide as is, AND the mess of cutting tape and cloth...WET!!!

There will be one layer of tape and cloth, maybe two of the cloth inside at the joining point of the transom and hull. Easier to do like I did with my FS14.

Not trying to tell you how to build, just suggesting if you want to glass before assembly.
To help line up the transom knees for one and even a shallow key is still something more than tape alone. And you can glue, fillet and tape all in one day. adding the glass after it is all glued up, you have to trim around the knees and stringer then?
And you don't try cutting it when wet, when it is still green where the glass is solid enough that it just flexes a little but not brittle hard just yet. Use the edge of the slot as a guide to trim the glass to the edge. That is only if you are planning on adding glass to the inside. 2nd, are the stringers and the knees going to need to be trimmed if you fill in and not use?

Posted: **Wed Jan 23, 2019 9:23 am**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 8:53 am
Capt UB wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 7:06 am
OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Wed Jan 23, 2019 6:17 am If you glass the transom then while the glass is still green you can cut the slots open again with a razor knife.

WHY?
The slots are not deep enough to add anything and the slots are too wide as is, AND the mess of cutting tape and cloth...WET!!!

There will be one layer of tape and cloth, maybe two of the cloth inside at the joining point of the transom and hull. Easier to do like I did with my FS14.
Not trying to tell you how to build, just suggesting if you want to glass before assembly.
To help line up the transom knees for one and even a shallow key is still something more than tape alone. And you can glue, fillet and tape all in one day. adding the glass after it is all glued up, you have to trim around the knees and stringer then?
And you don't try cutting it when wet, when it is still green where the glass is solid enough that it just flexes a little but not brittle hard just yet. Use the edge of the slot as a guide to trim the glass to the edge. That is only if you are planning on adding glass to the inside. 2nd, are the stringers and the knees going to need to be trimmed if you fill in and not use?

I'm going the easy way, fill and do as I did with the FS14. I will use battens to keep the stringers/knees at width when taping them in. Easy to do and works great. I do the same with the frames to keep them in place for taping.

Posted: **Fri Jan 25, 2019 11:05 am**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:01 am Very exciting to see you start your LM18!! It looks like it will fit under the carport but do you have room to work on it? The Sand Piper looks so forgotten in the background.

I bought a flat bottom boat cover from Academy to cover the hull of the FS14 up when we went to Chicago and brought it back. I got the one with all the straps and it held up great. At times my spare driver was hitting 80MPH while I was trying to sleep. Point is you can tighten the straps down enough for the water to roll off it if it rains with no pooling. It was somewhere around < $70.00 I think

OQ,

This is not the same make, but same thing as you got. Looks great and fits boat and OB too!
Thanks for the information on the right boat cover.

Bob

Posted: **Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:09 pm**

Posted: **Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:31 pm**

It does look good. The cheap one I got had like 6 or 8 straps down the sides and two more at transom. But it would not go around the OB.

Posted: **Fri Jan 25, 2019 2:03 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:31 pm It does look good. The cheap one I got had like 6 or 8 straps down the sides and two more at transom. But it would not go around the OB.

Amazon
$ 45.99 and free non-prime shipping!
There are three more straps in the bag, just have not setup cover yet. This is the MSC Heavy Duty 300D Marine Grade Polyester Canvas Trailerable Waterproof Boat Cover, Gray, Model A - Length:14'-16' Beam width: up to 68" (Fit V-hull fishing boats with beam width to 68”)

Posted: **Fri Jan 25, 2019 2:53 pm**

Oh ok! It is better then than the one I got and like I said, it held up to 80mph speeds at times.
I will let you get back to drilling hundreds of holes!

Posted: **Sat Jan 26, 2019 8:39 am**

Posted: **Wed Jan 30, 2019 9:31 am**

Found this in CL files. I'm going to buy one tonight.

Then using a couple of Stanley Sure Form planes we trimmed off all the excess glue and rounded all the seams in preparation for taping. This is the best tool for the job and I've tried them all. No dust, no noise, so sanding disks expended, no respirator or safety glasses required. It will trim off the drips, smooth the joints and round over the edges better and faster than anything that uses electricity

: Sureform1.jpg (173.92 KiB) Viewed 991 times

Posted: **Wed Jan 30, 2019 10:11 am**

It works especially well on "green" resin: when it is hard but not completely cured. Autobody shops use the technique all the time.

Posted: **Wed Jan 30, 2019 10:13 am**

I use those things all the time. Get a couple spare grates for them. The epoxy will clog it up (soak in acetone and good as new).

Posted: **Wed Jan 30, 2019 12:34 pm**

jacquesmm wrote: ↑Wed Jan 30, 2019 10:11 am It works especially well on "green" resin: when it is hard but not completely cured. Autobody shops use the technique all the time.

Thank you JM.

Posted: **Wed Jan 30, 2019 12:35 pm**

Jaysen wrote: ↑Wed Jan 30, 2019 10:13 am I use those things all the time. Get a couple spare grates for them. The epoxy will clog it up (soak in acetone and good as new).

Thanks for the heads up on get a few and the clog up and cleaning.

Posted: **Wed Jan 30, 2019 1:29 pm**

I use the sureform on all foam work prior to glassing.

After cure, for all flatwork, I use this:

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/kutz ... 3baa0002e9

Posted: **Thu Jan 31, 2019 11:56 am**

A sureform is definitely the way to go. This one was my Dad's and predates me by quite some time. He used it on his boat and it still works great now on mine. Not bad for a 60+ year old tool. Loving watching your build.

Posted: **Thu Jan 31, 2019 12:40 pm**

I used needle rasps for my R/C boat stuff but are to small for anything big. They are designed to be pulled and are curved to remove a lot of material quickly without much effort.

Capt. UB the rasp you show I have seen them at HD a few times but have yet to pick one up. Seems with the holes and a quick pull they would not clog as easy. Let us know what you think. With all the rounded chines you will be using it a lot!

Posted: **Fri Feb 01, 2019 7:03 am**

Going to pickup some new fairing tools tonight, will not need them for sometime

. Nothing like buying tools!!

Had problems with the round chine slots on this build, all is good now. So the build goes on...

Strongback is built and ready.

Molds/frames are on station.

Panels with round chine slots are cutout.

Relay the panels on the molds/frames.

Wire ties and PVC 1" long tubes (for backing) are ready.

Going to use straps like Jeff did on molds/frames 1 and 2 to help make the round chine easier.

Hopefully, all this will get done before it's starts to rain!!!

Posted: **Fri Feb 01, 2019 5:53 pm**

What a pain in the ass....

The CnC round chine cutouts were not on the same side of the panel!

Had to flip all four panels to cutout round chine slots!! At 18' long and about 14" wide..... I should have asked for help! Got it done!

Used tape on the cut side, then flipped panel.

Did not cutdown through the puzzle joint and ends, this time! I had cut before and things went down hill!

Once I get her layed out (wire tied) on the molds and transom, I'll then cutout the slots at the puzzle joint and ends. Then start the round chine FUN.....

Posted: **Fri Feb 01, 2019 9:59 pm**

Nice work Captain!

Posted: **Fri Feb 01, 2019 10:04 pm**

Very nice, looking like a boat already!

Posted: **Fri Feb 01, 2019 10:06 pm**

Looks like you’re winning the war!

Looks great.

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 5:41 am**

Slow and steady Capt. UB, Slow and steady!

I agree with Jaysen, you are winning!

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 2:15 pm**

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 2:16 pm**

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 2:19 pm**

Going to remove straps and see if it ties up better.

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:15 pm**

Bob, your boat is coming along nicely, and I'm jealous because I'd really like to build one myself. Someday maybe. I think those nails look really cool, but you should bang them in or your fly line will get hung up. Build on. Mike

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:15 pm**

PVC pipe worked.
What a workout putting wire ties and pvc pipe on this boat!
.
.

.
.
.
.
Now for the other side!!!

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:27 pm**

seaslug wrote: ↑Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:15 pm Bob, your boat is coming along nicely, and I'm jealous because I'd really like to build one myself. Someday maybe. I think those nails look really cool, but you should bang them in or your fly line will get hung up. Build on. Mike

Nails.... Those are the firing pins, just like Bogart made!

Thanks Mike.

As for my fly line.... I'm still stepping on it!! Someday I'll take a lesson or two!

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:30 pm**

Looking good Capt.

Tom

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:36 pm**

TomW1 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:30 pm Looking good Capt.

Tom

Thanks Tom.

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:38 pm**

Aripeka Angler wrote: ↑Fri Feb 01, 2019 9:59 pm Nice work Captain!

Thank you Richard.

Bob.

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:39 pm**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 30, 2019 1:29 pm I use the sureform on all foam work prior to glassing.

After cure, for all flatwork, I use this:

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/kutz ... 3baa0002e9

Thanks Fallguy.
Bob.

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:40 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jan 31, 2019 12:40 pm I used needle rasps for my R/C boat stuff but are to small for anything big. They are designed to be pulled and are curved to remove a lot of material quickly without much effort.

Capt. UB the rasp you show I have seen them at HD a few times but have yet to pick one up. Seems with the holes and a quick pull they would not clog as easy. Let us know what you think. With all the rounded chines you will be using it a lot!

Thanks OQ.
Bob

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 4:57 pm**

And now the other side....

Need more pvc pipe...
.
.

.
.
Maybe glue up slots Sunday before game.

Posted: **Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:24 pm**

Posted: **Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:44 pm**

You are moving along great! How is the blood pressure after you finished getting that done?

That had to been stressful, I don't see the first mate in any of the last pictures, there must of been words even a salty sailor doesn't hear very often!

Posted: **Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:57 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:44 pm You are moving along great! How is the blood pressure after you finished getting that done?

That had to been stressful, I don't see the first mate in any of the last pictures, there must of been words even a salty sailor doesn't hear very often!

With all the help I had building SandPiper (FS14), I learned more then I realized. It all came into play..... There will be a lot of fairing/shaping before I put down any glass. When Jeff was building the round chine, he did pre-glass fairing/shaping. Seaslug had lots of ideas too on this builds... Just too many people helped in one way or another to list... So, Thanks to the Forum gang.

Posted: **Sun Feb 03, 2019 7:32 pm**

j

Posted: **Mon Feb 04, 2019 5:53 pm**

Getting down to work. No flapper needed, orbiter sander working great and old cheap belt sander with 50 doing a good job.

Time for new sander....

Posted: **Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:03 pm**

Looking good CaptUB.

Posted: **Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:04 pm**

looking good Capt UB, looking good!

Posted: **Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:13 pm**

Great job Capt, nice work on the round chine that looks like a lot of work.

Posted: **Mon Feb 04, 2019 8:17 pm**

The boat looks great, fantastic job getting through all that sanding so quickly.

Posted: **Tue Feb 05, 2019 7:23 am**

Nice work Capt UB!! Really good progress!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Feb 05, 2019 5:44 pm**

Looking good Capt.

Tom

Posted: **Tue Feb 05, 2019 8:31 pm**

Got a little done tonight.

Posted: **Wed Feb 06, 2019 6:36 pm**

Well I got one side sanded, not faired completely yet. 40 grit on both the sander and belt sander....

Posted: **Wed Feb 06, 2019 8:22 pm**

Nice progress! You are winning the battle of the bow.

Posted: **Wed Feb 06, 2019 8:36 pm**

I just love how you can fix most anything with enough wood flour/ epoxy glue. I use a ton of it, every order I have the guys top off my package with more wood flour

Like AA says you seem to be winning the bow battle.

Posted: **Thu Feb 07, 2019 5:45 am**

Aripeka Angler wrote: ↑Wed Feb 06, 2019 8:22 pm Nice progress! You are winning the battle of the bow.

Thanks.
I hope I"m going in the right direction.

Posted: **Thu Feb 07, 2019 5:53 am**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Wed Feb 06, 2019 8:36 pm I just love how you can fix most anything with enough wood flour/ epoxy glue. I use a ton of it, every order I have the guys top off my package with more wood flour
Like AA says you seem to be winning the bow battle.

Thanks Fuzz.

Like I said to AA, not sure if this is the right way... I know the glass layup that JM calls for by it's self is strong, but wondering do I need to lay more glass down. A few have said wood flour and epoxy is brittle, I have not found this to be true... But I have never had to use so much in one area before!

Posted: **Thu Feb 07, 2019 6:31 am**

nothing to worry, you are effectively utilizing epoxy/filler combo ilo core plywood to be able to give the boat shape.
Traditional wooden building would be different but in JM method, this is just the core to build onto.
JM method gets the strength when all pieces of the puzzle come together. you will have the core + glass tape + glass + epoxy + stringers etc all coming together to form a superstructure. Therefore do not get hung up on one point, make sure all those gaps are fully filled and cured, than sand to shape and follow JM laminating schedule. You are defo winning the battle captain.

Posted: **Thu Feb 07, 2019 12:38 pm**

icelikkilinc wrote: ↑Thu Feb 07, 2019 6:31 am nothing to worry, you are effectively utilizing epoxy/filler combo ilo core plywood to be able to give the boat shape.
Traditional wooden building would be different but in JM method, this is just the core to build onto.
JM method gets the strength when all pieces of the puzzle come together. you will have the core + glass tape + glass + epoxy + stringers etc all coming together to form a superstructure. Therefore do not get hung up on one point, make sure all those gaps are fully filled and cured, than sand to shape and follow JM laminating schedule. You are defo winning the battle captain.

Thanks.
Looks like I may have a bit of a CHINE FENDER or SPRAY RAIL built-in.... I Could not get the chine to pull in, even with straps..

Posted: **Fri Feb 08, 2019 2:11 am**

Capt do not worry about it. That is the nice thing about these boats. Each one is an individually built and can be adjusted as they are being built. I have been on the Forum since the early 2000's. Cracker Larry and I had a great time for a few years and then I goofed up. I went off for a few years and came back with Larry's help because of my knowledge, his words not mine, and have seen many boats built and adjustments made. I have met with Jacques and talked with him so know how he thinks so don't worry about your minor adjustments in your chine line or other lines as you go along. The main thing is to make is to make these hulls fair. If you do that you have done your job.

Tom

Posted: **Sun Feb 10, 2019 4:52 pm**

Got the port side bow done (that's the other side of starboard

). Will grind starboard Monday. Rest of hull is ready for tape and cloth. Hopefully weather wiil be good, if it is could start fairing the hull this weekend!!!!!

Posted: **Sun Feb 10, 2019 6:41 pm**

That is really looking good Capt!

Thanks for clearing up which side was not port!

Wait, is port still on the same side as when it is right side up but it's upside down?

Posted: **Sun Feb 10, 2019 9:34 pm**

Looking great. You are building that boat fast.

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:07 pm**

Just thinking ahead... What to do on bottom, not black!!

just sand bottom panels smooth and coat with 3 layers of Hexagonal Boron Nitride (HBN or "White Graphite") mixed with epoxy. I may need to add some white pigment to the last coat. I did three or four coats of graphite/epoxy wet (1/2 hour between coats I think this is what I waited, 80* plus) on my FS14 SandPiper. HBN should look great, white bottom with Sea foam color on the hull.

: Inked5611619_20160120153312439_1_LARGE_LI.jpg (51.22 KiB) Viewed 971 times

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:20 pm**

Why not put a couple layers “sacrificial paint” on after all that? Just to keep it out of UV completely.

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:30 pm**

Jaysen wrote: ↑Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:20 pm Why not put a couple layers “sacrificial paint” on after all that? Just to keep it out of UV completely.

No need, the HBN is just like graphite. UV blocker.

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:33 pm**

True. I was thinking about the need for tinting the last layer. Thought a coat or two of paint might be quick and simple by comparison

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:08 pm**

Jaysen wrote: ↑Mon Feb 11, 2019 12:33 pm True. I was thinking about the need for tinting the last layer. Thought a coat or two of paint might be quick and simple by comparison

The white pigment will make it even whiter, I am told.

Posted: **Mon Feb 11, 2019 6:55 pm**

So now both sides are basally shaped/faired and ready for tape and cloth. More fairing after the glass in put down. Tomorrow I'm make the skeg, cut the tape and cloth.

.
.

Posted: **Fri Feb 15, 2019 4:04 pm**

Got tape and cloth cut. Ready for laying up glass. Hope to have done this weekend. Lots of the cloth, one reason I use slow hardener, gives you lots of time to work.

Posted: **Fri Feb 15, 2019 9:10 pm**

Got all the fiberglsss down. That was a big job for one person. Now comes all the sanding and fairing!!!

Posted: **Fri Feb 15, 2019 9:12 pm**

Nice work Capt UB. You are making good progress.

Posted: **Fri Feb 15, 2019 9:27 pm**

Very nice! Someone blinks and they will miss your build.

Posted: **Fri Feb 15, 2019 10:07 pm**

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Fri Feb 15, 2019 9:27 pm Very nice! Someone blinks and they will miss your build.

No kidding! Holy smokes you are flying

Posted: **Sat Feb 16, 2019 7:13 am**

Good morning DeLand!

Well got the fiberglass layed down last night! Looks great and strong. A few air bubbles need some help.

Posted: **Sat Feb 16, 2019 7:17 am**

The air bubbles look minimal to me.

Posted: **Sat Feb 16, 2019 7:23 am**

They are, never had problems with the little one. There are a few larger ones I will fix after my third cup of coffee!!
Using BBC's MarinEpoxy with slow hardener makes fixing little problems easy.