If it weren't for over-thinking, I'd do no thinking at all!
Looking really great, giving me too many ideas, per usual!
If it weren't for over-thinking, I'd do no thinking at all!
I only mention this since you are doing such a neat wiring job you might care about doing it by the book. Your solder connections will likely be fine but according to ABYC standards you cannot use solder as the sole means of connection. You can crimp and then solder, but not just solder. The idea is that the soldered join will get brittle with the constant motion in a boat, so if you do solder after crimping you must support the joint.
11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the
connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder
changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.
EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times the diameter of the
conductor.
NOTE: When a stranded conductor is soldered, the soldered portion of the conductor becomes a
solid strand conductor, and flexing can cause the conductor to break at the end of the solder joint
unless adequate additional support is provided.
No problem, you'll probably want a crimper made for the insulated connectors if you are doing more than a few to prevent tearing the heat shrink. I see some of the connectors very similar to the ones I linked come with a crimper for a good price. I don't have personal experience with them having the ancor crimper, but it might be a good way to start if you don't want to spend a lot.
Most ratcheting crimpers will have a small toggle to release midway so you can realign. Normally I think the intent is that if it opens again you know the crimp was tight enough.
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