Thanks for the Answer. We are voting here in Austria, that means a lot of work for journalists like me. So I have to wait until the beginning of october, when i have another week for the boat. I hope, that the weather will be nice, usually we have 10 to 20 degrees celcius (50-70f) in october, but it can get colder...
So there will be a pause in winter at least with the epoxy-work...
What is the lowest temperatur to work with epoxy?
Roman´s OB15 (First Time Builder)
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Re: Roman´s OB15 (First Time Builder)
With fast hardner you should be able to work down to 50f
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Re: Roman´s OB15 (First Time Builder)
Like fuzz said, but it also depends on the brand of epoxy you are using. It would be good to read the manufactures recommendations.
What epoxy are you using?
Fast hardener in cooler more humid environments will cause anemia (incorrect spelling. .. I'm not sure how its spelled) blush when cured and during the curing process the surface will feel like it has kind of a oily/slimy residue on it. This isnt an issue as long as you understand it and prepare accordingly.
The epoxy will still cure fine, but you need to wash the blush off with warm soapy water and a sponge or scotch brite and rinse off. You do not want to put fresh epoxy over that layer without cleaning it off or it can cause bonding issues. It is also very difficult to sand as it will clog your sand paper very quickly.
I am facing cooler temperatures myself and probably wont be able to finish this fall. Here is what I saw from my backyard this morning........
Termination dust
What epoxy are you using?
Fast hardener in cooler more humid environments will cause anemia (incorrect spelling. .. I'm not sure how its spelled) blush when cured and during the curing process the surface will feel like it has kind of a oily/slimy residue on it. This isnt an issue as long as you understand it and prepare accordingly.
The epoxy will still cure fine, but you need to wash the blush off with warm soapy water and a sponge or scotch brite and rinse off. You do not want to put fresh epoxy over that layer without cleaning it off or it can cause bonding issues. It is also very difficult to sand as it will clog your sand paper very quickly.
I am facing cooler temperatures myself and probably wont be able to finish this fall. Here is what I saw from my backyard this morning........
Termination dust
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Re: Roman´s OB15 (First Time Builder)
Here is a link http://bateau2.com/howto/cure_times.php
Got this from JM himself. That is service you don't get just anywhere.
Dang Narfi keep that over on your side of the mountain ! I ain't ready to see it yet
Got this from JM himself. That is service you don't get just anywhere.
Dang Narfi keep that over on your side of the mountain ! I ain't ready to see it yet
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Re: Roman´s OB15 (First Time Builder)
Nice Mountain-View. My epoxy is a noname Produkt. It is written on, that it beginns to harden after 45-60 Minutes at 20 degrees celcius (68f). So it is a medium hardener. When I read the table right, I can work down to 13 degrees Celsius with it. That is good. Then I still got most of october before the winter-break.
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Re: Roman´s OB15 (First Time Builder)
So next Week, I have another 3-4 days reserved for the Boat. A friend of mine is going to help me. He has some experience, because he has already build a 14 feet dory.
My plan is: Sanding the edges of the chine to a curve and repeat the taping - this time hopefully without bubbles. Then I want to go on with the fabric. Here I would like some advice. I am using 6mm-wood for the side and therefore will also glass the inside, like explained in the plans. But how many layers should I do on the outside? Since the chines and the keel are held together with glass-tape, is one layer of glass-fabric enough or should I do a second layer?
My plan is: Sanding the edges of the chine to a curve and repeat the taping - this time hopefully without bubbles. Then I want to go on with the fabric. Here I would like some advice. I am using 6mm-wood for the side and therefore will also glass the inside, like explained in the plans. But how many layers should I do on the outside? Since the chines and the keel are held together with glass-tape, is one layer of glass-fabric enough or should I do a second layer?
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Re: Roman´s OB15 (First Time Builder)
The plans should show a lamination schedule.
x layers and weight of tape on each seam inside and out (could be 1 or more)
x layers and weight of wide cloth and where (could be 0 or more)
It should look something like this in the plans (my plans are for a different boat, but shows what section you are looking for) find that section in your plans and apply it to your specific boat.
x layers and weight of tape on each seam inside and out (could be 1 or more)
x layers and weight of wide cloth and where (could be 0 or more)
It should look something like this in the plans (my plans are for a different boat, but shows what section you are looking for) find that section in your plans and apply it to your specific boat.
Re: Roman´s OB15 (First Time Builder)
The plans should show the that.
The latest version of the plans specify 6 mm with one layer 12 oz. (400 gr) each side.
There are some very old plans out there that show a 10 mm ply as an option but that is overkill.
The latest version of the plans specify 6 mm with one layer 12 oz. (400 gr) each side.
There are some very old plans out there that show a 10 mm ply as an option but that is overkill.
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http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: Roman´s OB15 (First Time Builder)
Thanks for the Answer. Then i will make one layer. I have seen Rubens pictures. I will do it the same way, with the overlap at the keel.
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Re: Roman´s OB15 (First Time Builder)
We had really good weather for October, 13-18 degrees celicius (55-65f). So I had three good building days.
On the first day, I sanded the chine, made round corners and then taped it. I still had some smaller bubbles and used an injection-needle to fill them up.
On day 2 I had help from a friend. Together we could put on the fabric. It took 10kg (22lb) epoxy to get it really soaked in.
Since we had under 10 degrees celsius (50f), it did not really dry up during night. We found 5 bubbles and filled them with the needle. Then we put a second coat of epoxy on the boat.
On the next day it was still a little bit sticky. So I really think, that´s it for now. I will have to wait until spring, to start working on the boat again. So I bought a boat cover,as uv-protection which I will put over the boat, when everything is really dry.
So in winter I will have time to think about the layout. I am not a fisher, the boat will be a pleasure craft for my wife and me, I want to drive it in alpine lakes, the danube and the adriatic see. So I want to make benches, that can somehow be transformend to sunbeds. I also don´t have decided, if I want a central console or a side console ...
On the first day, I sanded the chine, made round corners and then taped it. I still had some smaller bubbles and used an injection-needle to fill them up.
On day 2 I had help from a friend. Together we could put on the fabric. It took 10kg (22lb) epoxy to get it really soaked in.
Since we had under 10 degrees celsius (50f), it did not really dry up during night. We found 5 bubbles and filled them with the needle. Then we put a second coat of epoxy on the boat.
On the next day it was still a little bit sticky. So I really think, that´s it for now. I will have to wait until spring, to start working on the boat again. So I bought a boat cover,as uv-protection which I will put over the boat, when everything is really dry.
So in winter I will have time to think about the layout. I am not a fisher, the boat will be a pleasure craft for my wife and me, I want to drive it in alpine lakes, the danube and the adriatic see. So I want to make benches, that can somehow be transformend to sunbeds. I also don´t have decided, if I want a central console or a side console ...
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