Jeffs FS14 LS

[TomW1]

You’ll figure out the clamping. Part looks great! Grain look good against the solid stock?

Grain does not really match. Not sure if I'm bothered enough to do anything about it, we'll see.

Jeff it is hard to match grain even from the same tree unless you request matching veneer, then it gets expensive. Unless they are going to be side by side I don't think I would worry about it.

Tom

[VT_Jeff]

Unless they are going to be side by side I don't think I would worry about it.

They will actually be in series: the inside of my cockpit rim will have trim running all the way around it. For the corners, which are radius 3", I'm making the bent lam inside radius parts from doug fir veneers I ordered, 8-9 layers stacked up and then bent as you can see above. The straight runs will use solid vert-grain doug fir stock that i already have. So the solid stock will be running directly into the veneers on each side of each corner, joined by a simple 45 degree scarf.

So the difference in grain will make it quite obvious that it is not a continuous piece running the straights and the curves, which isn't the end of the world, but this is all purely aesthetic to begin with, so getting it aesthetically right is definitely worth some consideration, time will tell exactly how much.

As I mentioned, I could "cheat" and veneer the faces of the straight runs, though something about this doesn't sit quite right, unsure exactly what.

[Dan_Smullen]

You’ll figure out the clamping. Part looks great! Grain look good against the solid stock?

Grain does not really match. Not sure if I'm bothered enough to do anything about it, we'll see.

I wouldn't let it bother you. You'll be the only one who ever thought about it.

Longer form and longer parts might make it easier to blend things together.

[VT_Jeff]

I wouldn't let it bother you. You'll be the only one who ever thought about it.
Longer form and longer parts might make it easier to blend things together.

You are absolutely most likely correct. Absolutely no one but me notices any of the details I slaved over on the drift boat . Luckily this works the other way and no one notices the errors either.

I'd like to darken the fir but know that epoxy doesn't bond well over oil stains, any experience in this department/recommendations?

[Dan_Smullen]

I wouldn't let it bother you. You'll be the only one who ever thought about it.
Longer form and longer parts might make it easier to blend things together.

You are absolutely most likely correct. Absolutely no one but me notices any of the details I slaved over on the drift boat . Luckily this works the other way and no one notices the errors either.

I'd like to darken the fir but know that epoxy doesn't bond well over oil stains, any experience in this department/recommendations?

Sorry sir. None whatsoever.

[Jaysen]

Bend... steam is your friend. Make a small steam chamber and make it happen.

Color... alcohol stain. Look into shellac based finishes. The stains can be applied separately. To get penetration you increase the alcohol content.

My old school woodworking comes in handy.

[VT_Jeff]

Bend... steam is your friend. Make a small steam chamber and make it happen.

Color... alcohol stain. Look into shellac based finishes. The stains can be applied separately. To get penetration you increase the alcohol content.

My old school woodworking comes in handy.

I considered steam but bending 1/4" stock to R3 with basically 0 run rate with steam bending isn't filling me with confidence. Not ruling it out but going to run the glue-lam route for now.

I'll checkout the alcohol stain idea, that's new to me.

Here's take 2 on the bent lam glue-up with longer pieces and a tighter jig.

[Jaysen]

VTJ, the steam route will make all bends easier. With the glue up route it reduces the strain on the parts being laminated. If you steam long enough you can bend some pretty thick pieces.

[VT_Jeff]

VTJ, the steam route will make all bends easier.

The laminated veneers bend effortlessly without steam, the challenges come later in making use of the part, but I think a few iterations will get the kinks worked out.

I did find this related to S3 epoxy over stain, which is easing my mind a bit about darkening the fir.

I also read that West Systems tested a bunch of stains for adhesion. Minwax oil failed but just about everything else passed with 4 day cure of the stain. Of course I have quarts of minwax oil on my shelf, though probably 20 years old. Amazing how you buy stain, put it on the shelf, and the next time you reach for it its 20 years old. Scary.

[Dan_Smullen]

VTJ, the steam route will make all bends easier.

Of course I have quarts of minwax oil on my shelf, though probably 20 years old. Amazing how you buy stain, put it on the shelf, and the next time you reach for it its 20 years old. Scary.

My dad probably used 10 gallons of Minwax "Ipswich Pine" when I was growing up.
Several cans still on a shelf somewhere I'm sure. Pretty sure I've bought more than I've used too.

Carry on, Jeff. You'll be in good shape with the longer ends. Looks good!