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I work in 60 degree temp all the time. I have used a lot of both fast and slow. When I glass I plan on not being able to do anything with it until the next day. The fast is always good to go. The slow is still just short of sand ready the next day sometimes. I like slow for the no blush and long working time. One problem with slow is you can get some drain out if you are not careful.

Fuzz, what’s drain out and how is it prevented?

RiggsWNC wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 8:11 am Fuzz, what’s drain out and how is it prevented?

Ditto!

Fuzz wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 1:11 am When I glass I plan on not being able to do anything with it until the next day.

I try to wait a week, which may seem insane, but I learned on my last boat that sanding week-long cured epoxy was a "joy" compared to sanding epoxy that had only cured for a day or two. This was why I was so intent on glassing wet-on-wet, to avoid the need to sand between and wait long periods between steps. This worked well on the hull bottom, we'll see how it goes on the inside where there are a lot more steps involved to get the bilge/seams glassed, get the stringers and the frames all in wet-on-wet. May be undoable.

QuickFair I sand a day later, no issues there.

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 11:13 am

RiggsWNC wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 8:11 am Fuzz, what’s drain out and how is it prevented?

Ditto!

Slow can take so long to gel that it can drip/run out of the glass especially on vertical surfaces. You can add a little thickening agent if needed. I only thicken things up after my glass is mostly wet out. This is only a problem if you have a long gel time.

Fuzz wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 12:40 pm

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 11:13 am

RiggsWNC wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 8:11 am Fuzz, what’s drain out and how is it prevented?

Ditto!

Slow can take so long to gel that it can drip/run out of the glass especially on vertical surfaces. You can add a little thickening agent if needed. I only thicken things up after my glass is mostly wet out. This is only a problem if you have a long gel time.

Interesting. I have tried to hang around long enough to catch drips on the verticals but inevitably miss some, maybe this is why. Great info Fuzz, thanks.

Sanding just got a lot easier!

I think I'm dealing with more reverse rocker than hook: if I use a shorter straight edge, there is little to no hook towards the stern:

I love the sanding rig. Seems legit...

What is reverse rocker? From the pic, this seems like good news.

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Wed Jan 08, 2020 7:41 pm What is reverse rocker? From the pic, this seems like good news.

Reverse rocker is just hook spread over a longer distance. The rear panels are pretty flat in that area as shown in the photo. The keel itself has a bit of hook/reverse rocker over the 4 feet. May be that my D frame was low or that I jacked the transom up too much when I used the 2X6 jack to keep it from sagging, may have err'd in other direction. I'm sure the performance-minded would add layers of glass etc to get it flat but I'm not going to bother with it, it's fairly slight and I can't believe I'll notice on anything but pure glass, time will tell. At hundreds of dollars/gallon for epoxy, $50/quart of fairing compound, and already having bought twice the design qty, I need to pick my targets carefully. This ain't one.