C17 in New Zealand.

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OneWayTraffic
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Location: New Zealand

Re: C17 in New Zealand.

Post by OneWayTraffic »

Not a lot to report. It took me a week to get the front frame the way I liked it then tacked it in Friday night end of May or thereabouts. Then it rained, and we had floods South of here. I waited about 3 weeks before I could glass it. Then another two weeks for fairing. That went on a while ago and I'll get around to sanding it one day. I did cut out the rear motorwell frames as I was not really happy with the way I installed them (not square and symmetrical.) I'll put the sole on first and then some new frames on top. After going back and forth a bit I also filled the bung hole in the motorwell frame today. I figured that water was at least as likely to enter there as exit there. I'll inspect and drain (if needs be) the underfloor from inspection ports placed in lockers and in the cabin.

I also cut some more out of the side frame to fit the sole around and prepared for the cleats. The cleats inside the stringers will be one continuous piece of clear wood. Outside cleats will fit into the frames.

Days are getting longer so I should be making some progress soon. I want the sole on by October if I can manage it so I can spend the summer holidays on above sole details.

OneWayTraffic
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.

Post by OneWayTraffic »

Took the chance to take a photo after a clean out.
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OneWayTraffic
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.

Post by OneWayTraffic »

Making progress on the cleats and underfloor foam. The foam sheets are glued in place with generous spots of epoxy/microballoon putty. I may use some tabs of glass to hold them in place as well, especially where the boat is subject to slamming. The gaps and holes will be filled with pour foam on the higher side of each compartment leaving a downhill section in each for inspection, ventilation and possible drainage.

It's a lot of work and epoxy cutting coating and fitting the cleats. We are on a lockdown at the moment, so I have time. OD16s,18s and Tolman skiffs have the stringers as dimensional lumber or versalam LVL plywood. As a result no need for cleats, and in some cases less need for tape. Although it must be heavier, it would certainly save time and possibly epoxy.

I fitted the bow eye yesterday. Most use 5200 or similar for this; I went a different route. 10mm 316SS U-bolt, in holes drilled out to 13mm. The small amount of exposed ply near the outside was given a coat or two of thickened epoxy using a stirstick, then checked the next day, after initial cure. Then G-flex thickened with Colloidial silica and Aluminiumn powder into the hole and a generous coating on the Ubolt itself. Pushed through the hole, under the washers and nuts tightened until squeeze out all around. The outside of the bolt near the hull was coated to protect against Crevice corrosion and water ingress. It will eventually be painted over to keep the UV out.

G-flex has several times more flexibility than regular epoxy and a lot more strength than any sealant. It's recommended for structural hardware fitting. Admittedly a much more expensive option, but I'd previously purchased a bottle. As a bonus it will provide extra strength with some bonding all the way through the boltholes.
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TomW1
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.

Post by TomW1 »

OWT looks like your moving along. Make sure that Styrofoam is water and oil and gas resistant. Other wise it is not useable in boat hulls. Well keep on building.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

OneWayTraffic
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.

Post by OneWayTraffic »

Thanks Tom. The foam is 6lb density Polyurethane. I got about 5cubic feet of it for about $30USD. I'll pour foam around the sides later.

OneWayTraffic
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.

Post by OneWayTraffic »

Added a little sole to the front compartment. Rough cut 9mm ply to shape with three holes cut with the holesaw, coated the underside with epoxy. Poured foam in the bottom, with the plywood just sitting on top. Glassed over yesterday, faired over after this photo. I cut sheets of the block foam to make a rough fit to the hull. After seeing the pours down the side find every little gap and hole I filleted down the foam with putty. This will prevent leaks and keep the foam in place while I wait for a warm day to pour foam in between the sheets and the stringers. I'll put an inspection port in the front middle later.

OneWayTraffic
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.

Post by OneWayTraffic »

Photos. I like the flat bottom to the storage compartment, so put it in. Also it becomes a kind of 'stringer' to the boat between Frame A and B. Since that sole is now part of the structure it gets biaxial glass, of which I have plenty.
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Fuzz
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.

Post by Fuzz »

Is some of that foam being used to form stringers? You probably have said and I just missed it.

OneWayTraffic
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.

Post by OneWayTraffic »

Not exactly. I could use some glass on one side to tab them in, but I am currently just planning to use them as a dam to hold the pour foam. Drainage down between so if water ever gets in I will know. I'm sure that the foam adds some strength but couldn't put numbers on it. I may secure the foam to the sole, it's built up to that level so it's all close to coplanar.

OneWayTraffic
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.

Post by OneWayTraffic »

Fuzz wrote: Sun Sep 12, 2021 1:26 am Is some of that foam being used to form stringers? You probably have said and I just missed it.
I did think about adding some stiffeners in between the existing ones right where the trailer rollers would go. Decided against in the end. The trailer I got has keel rollers and after getting it I removed the keel skeg and replaced with a larger flat one: glassed in and aluminium flat bar glued on. This will support most of the boat’s weight. The keel area is extremely strong even without it. I have some side skids and rollers for extra support.

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