Been plugging away at the boat. Aside from fairing I've been working on sprayrails. These are UHMWPE, along the chines, side panel styleline and rubrail. Also along the rear part of the keel. Front of the keel gets 3mm Aluminium extrusion. Aluminium bonds well with epoxy; I used G-flex. Acetone wipe and scrub the sand until shiny with a RO. Then work on the epoxy and sand it in with a scrap of sandpaper. I used temporary screws to hold it in place and filled the holes later. Sanded the outside for appearances sake. It’s right down the centre despite some of the photos seeming to show it off.
Chine strips are 20mm by 10mm UHMWPE also visible in the photo. Harder to glue so the 316 SS screws stay in the boat. Below the waterline so care was needed. First drilled pilot holes and dry fit the strip. Then located the pilot holes from inside and used a 13mm drill to rout out the wood core. Filled that with putty. Would have been easier to just drill but I wanted minimal damage to the glass, which is a couple of mm thick here. The strips above on the style line just get over drilled as there is no glass to speak of there (200gsm only).
Preparing the UHMWPE. Some will say that this can’t be glued at all. Well apparently it can. The plastic has very long chain molecules that don’t strongly interact so the surface needs to be modified. First I wiped with acetone to remove dust. Then sanded with 60 grit. This was a very quick sand. Then acetone again and on to the propane torch. Kissing the surface with a quick pass of the torch (about 30cm a sec) propels reactive atoms (single oxygen and others) which are supposed to break up some of the long chains and also replace some hydrogen atoms with oxygen which can electron bond to the glue molecules. The treatments max effect is supposed to last about 15 minutes so you need to get the glue on fast afterwards. Then I screwed this into the chine like before. The screws will stay as insurance, though the glue is supposed to bond with over 2000psi to HDPE with good treatment. I have a couple of small samples: one just sanded and acetone wiped and one fully treated with wipe-sand-wipe-flame. I’ll test when fully cured. It would have been easier to go with hardwood, but I'm hoping this will be stronger and longer lasting.
C17 in New Zealand.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Looks great
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Tried breaking my test piece today. 20mm square glued, and tied a rope through the hole. I then screwed the ply to a beam and leaned on it. Then again. Then tried bouncing back and forth. I gave myself a rope mark on my back but the plastic is still attached. I'll try getting more aggressive with it later.
Removed screws today, and drilled out the holes to 4mm. I then inspected both sides for evidence of cracking or places where there could be water getting to the wood.
I'll leave them be for now then probably replace them bedded in g-flex after the flip. I am pondering whether to keep them, or just fill with epoxy or even use a couple of larger longer screws at the ends of each strip.
Removed screws today, and drilled out the holes to 4mm. I then inspected both sides for evidence of cracking or places where there could be water getting to the wood.
I'll leave them be for now then probably replace them bedded in g-flex after the flip. I am pondering whether to keep them, or just fill with epoxy or even use a couple of larger longer screws at the ends of each strip.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
That's really interesting; I had always heard that UHMW was pretty much impossible to glue and have it hold but that sounds like success to me.
I'm curious to see how you feel about it after a year of running the boat, say. I need to put a wear strip on my full length skeg, because I'll be beaching on rocks constantly, but I'd planned to just use PVC for ease of attachment.
Very curious to hear how the UHMW works out. If it stays attached, it's amazing stuff and I'd prefer it.
I'm curious to see how you feel about it after a year of running the boat, say. I need to put a wear strip on my full length skeg, because I'll be beaching on rocks constantly, but I'd planned to just use PVC for ease of attachment.
Very curious to hear how the UHMW works out. If it stays attached, it's amazing stuff and I'd prefer it.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
I broke the test piece today. Put it on the ground stood on it, pulled on the rope and broke the plastic off with little effort. It was in peel, which is the weakest way for adhesives, as the forces are concentrated. But on closer examination I saw this. A successful bonding job.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
No way it's coming off without taking some hull with it. I'll have those screws back in when it hits the water with some bigger ones at the ends of each strip to guard against peel. If not screws then the gaps will be filled with glass filled epoxy making little pins.cracked_ribs wrote: ↑Tue Feb 02, 2021 12:15 am That's really interesting; I had always heard that UHMW was pretty much impossible to glue and have it hold but that sounds like success to me.
I'm curious to see how you feel about it after a year of running the boat, say. I need to put a wear strip on my full length skeg, because I'll be beaching on rocks constantly, but I'd planned to just use PVC for ease of attachment.
Very curious to hear how the UHMW works out. If it stays attached, it's amazing stuff and I'd prefer it.
I'd use UHMW. Follow the procedure I used: solvent wipe, sand, solvent wipe, flame treat, water break test, clean with paper towels then G-flex ASAP then again with thickened G-flex to bed it in. Drill holes every foot or less and bed in epoxy. Then screw it down. Then you could bed the screw holes with fibre fulled epoxy acting like composite rivets. Or put 316L screws in to hold it. I don't think it will come off.
Flame treating is the trick. There's videos online on how to do it. It chemically changes the surface.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Oh and watch the temperatures. I glue in the afternoon so falling temperatures shrink and tighten the plastic to the hull. In the morning could be an issue as it expands. I also checked when dry fitting and gluing to make sure it was close to the same temperature.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Very interesting, thank you! I'll do some testing, I guess.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
3m make a glue as well that they claim needs little prep: scotchweld DP-8005. Might be cheaper in small jobs; no flame treatment required.
https://www.glueguru.co.nz/site/gluegur ... ch_248.pdf
https://www.glueguru.co.nz/site/gluegur ... ch_248.pdf
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-ep ... -adhesive/
Info and video on G-flex. It was the rotomould polyethylene kayak repair that sold it to me. Especially the bit where they throw it off the bridge.
Info and video on G-flex. It was the rotomould polyethylene kayak repair that sold it to me. Especially the bit where they throw it off the bridge.
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