FS19 in Sherwood, OR

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Scrappy
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Location: Sherwood, OR

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Post by Scrappy »

Browndog wrote: Thu Apr 08, 2021 8:14 pm I used a 35 Gallon V-hull tank under the sole in the FS 19 that I built.

One of the reasons I raised the sole by 1” was to provide clearance for all of the fittings and fuel hoses etc., there is very little space under the sole as designed.

I bedded the tank on neoprene strips as recommended by the tank manufacturer.

If you put a tank under the sole you will need to add another layer of Biaxial glass on the inside of the hull where the tank will rest per the building notes and the designer.

I moved the transverse frames between the stringers to accommodate the tank and left the part of the frame that was on the outside of the stringers. I also added support under the sole to stiffen the area above the tank and to accommodate mounting points for the leaning post.

In my recollection there was no room above the tank for chase tubes except for a very small one for the fuel sender wire to the gas tank fill gauge and the ground wire. My chase tubes were installed on the outside of the stringers.

My build thread includes a large number of pictures of everything I just tried to describe and would encourage you to look at the thread for whatever details that I might have forgotten about.

I would strongly recommend that you mock up a console out of cardboard before you buy any materials for it. I changed the console a few times before getting it the way we wanted. After putting the hull together, building a console is a piece of cake.

I also recommend dry fitting the sole in place before finalizing the interior design. You may find that you will want to move some stuff around or change the dimensions of the front deck and it is hard to do once the sole is glued down. I shortened the front casting deck and added a rear deck on the one I built.

Fell free to call or message me if something isn’t clear to you.

Your boat is looking good. Keep up the good work.
Jordy,
Thanks for the tips and weighing in. BELIEVE ME, I have studied your post in detail! Without it, and others like you who are so helpful I wouldn’t even be attempting a build. Still playing around with the layout and will take your advice to heart.

TomW1
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Re: Planning questions

Post by TomW1 »

Scrappy wrote: Tue Apr 06, 2021 12:34 am I’ve been doing a lot of planning for the layout of my boat. Stealing most of my ideas from the experts on this forum but I thought I’d share my plans and throw some questions out to make sure I’m not doing anything stupid.

Also, does anyone know where I can find center console plans to get me started? At one point I thought I remembered seeing someone had posted a rough sketch with dimensions but can’t seem to find it.

8302
There are console plans here if you have not found any yet https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/prod ... use-plans/ They have been designed by Jacques and fit different size boats.

Sorry for the late reply.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

Scrappy
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Post by Scrappy »

Thanks Tom. Perfect!

Scrappy
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Post by Scrappy »

Got the inside of the hull glassed and the stringers and frames, minus the forward two, glassed in as well. Next step for me is to put an additional layer of glass down where the fuel tank will go. It will sit between the offset center frames in the photo. After that it’s chase tubes, foam, and thru-hull fittings.
I ordered a 115 Suzuki that will take about three months to come in. After some frustrating searching around I found a really great dealer that was willing to sit down and talk about my project and answer all of my stupid questions. He wanted me to put a 3 in chase tube in but I think that is to big for my stringers and frames. He agreed to give me the wiring harness and separate hydraulic steering line in advance so I could run that through the tubes before I get the sole down. Still considering it.
8405

pee wee
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Post by pee wee »

Scrappy wrote: Thu Apr 29, 2021 10:33 pm He wanted me to put a 3 in chase tube in but I think that is to big for my stringers and frames. He agreed to give me the wiring harness and separate hydraulic steering line in advance so I could run that through the tubes before I get the sole down. Still considering it.
Good progress getting the glass down, it's really coming together (literally)!

Maybe he was thinking it was all going through one chase tube? Of course you know that's not right. I'd get the wiring harness and hydraulic lines and see how easily they pass through pipe and an elbow, but 2" seems to work for most situations. Sometimes the plug on the end of the wiring harness is pretty big, too.
Hank

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Post by Browndog »

For the extra layer of biaxial under the fuel tank I used all of the scrap pieces that I had leftover from glassing the hull per designer recommendations. Not the prettiest glassing job but it is completely hidden so cosmetics were not required. Save the good stuff for the visible locations.

On my build there are two PVC chase tubes on the outside of each stringer. One side for electrical and the other side for fuel and steering. The two inch diameter pipes were more than adequate. Used a builder’s flexible fish to pull wires and hoses through. The hydraulic steering hoses are probably the least flexible of what needed to be fished from the console to the motor. Having an uncluttered chase tube for them was helpful.

TomW1
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Post by TomW1 »

Scrappy chase tubes need to be sized for what you are sending through them. Normally a 2 - 2.5" for control cables, another 2" for steering cables, you do not want to combine the two. Then a 1.5" for fuel and a 2" for electrical, and another 1-1 1/2" for depth sounder, it needs to be separate from electrical interference. Control cables and steering cables should not be in the same chase tubes as they will wear on each other and cause chaffing over time. Run the top of the chase tubes 1/3 to 1/2 below the top of the frames. Make sure you have a couple of inches between the chase tubes.

I love the FS19 and helped GuyP prop his FS19 properly. Once you get to that point and you would like my help please feel free to ask. A Suzuki 115 is a lot of power for an FS19. A 115HP pushes a much larger and heaver C19 into the lower 40 mph' range. With a 600lb less hull weight and less v at the transom the FS19 would have a top speed close to 50 with the 115.

Scrappy I played around in my calculators the 115 will give you a top speed of 48 mph and a 90 42 mph when loaded at 2200 lbs. If you go with the 90 it will help you balance out your boat as it weighs 60lbs less. Well jest some info for you.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Post by Browndog »

Tom makes some good points and he was also helpful to me when we were propping the FS 19 that I built.

The 115 HP Yamaha four stroke that we put on the FS 19 that I built produces a top speed of 42 mph fully loaded with 3 people and full ice, gear, beverages etc.

Admittedly, it is built heavier than designed due to the addition of 6 oz fiberglass cloth covering every exposed surface, full gunwales and coaming, front and rear decks with hatches, livewell and baitwell. But, fuel economy is still exceptional: 6.8 MPG at cruise speed of 30 MPH @ 4000 RPMs.

A 90 HP like Guy put on his slightly scaled down FS 19 would also be a good choice.

The FS 19 has a hull that according to Jacques was designed for sea worthiness and efficiency with very little transition from displacement speeds to planing speeds. The boat will get on and maintain plane at relatively low speeds without much bow rise. 11-12 MPH will get it on and keep it on plane. The builder’s notes indicate that the trade off is that top speed is limited.

Regardless of how much power a builder puts on one I don’t think you’ll get much above the low to mid 40’s out of any FS 19 because of the running surface and bottom design.

90 - 115 HP would be ideal depending on how heavily built and routinely loaded, perhaps 60 - 75HP for a very lightly built minimal style build.

Scrappy
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Post by Scrappy »

TomW1 wrote: Fri Apr 30, 2021 10:37 pm
Scrappy I played around in my calculators the 115 will give you a top speed of 48 mph and a 90 42 mph when loaded at 2200 lbs. If you go with the 90 it will help you balance out your boat as it weighs 60lbs less. Well jest some info for you.

Tom
Tom, Thanks for doing that. Great info, I was sold on the 90 before I went to the dealer and he talked me into the 115. Not sure if it's too late to change my mind but given your numbers it is something I'm considering.

pee wee
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Post by pee wee »

Scrappy wrote: Sun May 02, 2021 12:52 am . . . I was sold on the 90 before I went to the dealer and he talked me into the 115.
The dealer was trying to do you a service based on his experience with production boats; in his eyes a 115 would keep your boat from being underpowered. The thing is that these boats from Bateau as designed are much lighter than equal size production boats, and therefore don't require equivalent horsepower. I'd say the advice you got from the people here is more appropriate to your needs. If the weight of the two motors was the same and the cost difference wasn't an issue, then maybe . . or if you plan to load the boat down and need extra power . .
Hank

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