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FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2020 10:14 pm
by Scrappy
Well I recently found myself with a bunch of spare time and lacking excuses so I decided to go for it. I don't have the talent, skill, knowledge, nor experience that many of the builders on this forum have, but what I lack in intellect and experience I plan to compensate by building at a snail's pace!

I have cut out the molds (using MDF molds at all stations and none of the actual bulkheads), transom, clamping boards and stringers. (I'll post a picture later, once I figure that out). Just ordered the epoxy supplies. Plan to cut out the side and bottom panels until those arrive and I can start gluing.

Just wanted to introduce myself to the forum and get a topic started because I know I will have many questions. Right off the bat, I have reviewed several build threads and don't see that builders are notching the stringers to set the station locations. I plan on notching the stringers for this purpose. Is there a downside I'm missing?

Thanks,
Scrappy

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2020 10:19 pm
by glossieblack
Welcome to the forum Scrappy. You'll get good advice and support here, and we'll enjoy following your build. :D

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 8:04 am
by Jeff
Welcome to our Builders Forum Scrappy!! You will receive good support & guidance from the membership!! Again, welcome, Jeff

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 10:47 am
by Dougster
I don't see any down side to notching the stringers other than that locks in the bulkhead placements at that spot. I didn't notch the LB22 stringers to allow myself some fiddle room. I did notch the SK14 stringers. I think either way works, really.

Dougster

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 1:33 pm
by Scrappy
Thanks Dougster.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 2:19 pm
by Scrappy
Image
Molds and transom stacked in the garage.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 2:41 pm
by Jeff
Nice work Scrappy!!! Jeff

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 7:17 pm
by Browndog
Welcome to the Forum and congratulations on your decision to embark on a boat building project. Especially the FS 19! I’m a fan of course because I built one for my brother and have spent many hours in, on, under and all around it. I think you will enjoy the process and I know you will enjoy the result.

If I can be of help in any way, please do not hesitate to contact me. There is a build thread of the one that I built that may be of interest to you as you get to different steps along the way. If you see something and it’s not clear what I did reach out to me and I’ll try to remember for you.

Best wishes on your boat building adventure,
Jordy Evans

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 7:55 pm
by Coach
Welcome scrappy! I am a rookie here on the forum as I am on my first build but I can tell you the support here is great and the information share is unmatched! Ask away as you go. Many here have the answers and get right back to you. Good luck with the build and enjoy the process!

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 8:32 pm
by OneWayTraffic
Some of the builders here have been working on their projects for years. I'm sure you'll fit right in.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2020 8:53 pm
by narfi
Looking forward to following your adventure!
I don't know anything either, but that hasn't stopped me from making progress :)
The guys here are a great help and encouragement.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 8:31 am
by Scrappy
Browndog wrote: Tue Apr 28, 2020 7:17 pm Welcome to the Forum and congratulations on your decision to embark on a boat building project. Especially the FS 19! I’m a fan of course because I built one for my brother and have spent many hours in, on, under and all around it. I think you will enjoy the process and I know you will enjoy the result.

If I can be of help in any way, please do not hesitate to contact me. There is a build thread of the one that I built that may be of interest to you as you get to different steps along the way. If you see something and it’s not clear what I did reach out to me and I’ll try to remember for you.

Best wishes on your boat building adventure,
Jordy Evans
Thanks for reaching out Jordy. I’ve studied your post, it is inspirational and helped nudge me “over the edge!” That boat you built is awesome.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 8:53 am
by Scrappy
Coach wrote: Tue Apr 28, 2020 7:55 pm Welcome scrappy! I am a rookie here on the forum as I am on my first build but I can tell you the support here is great and the information share is unmatched! Ask away as you go. Many here have the answers and get right back to you. Good luck with the build and enjoy the process!
Thanks Coach.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 8:55 am
by Scrappy
narfi wrote: Tue Apr 28, 2020 8:53 pm Looking forward to following your adventure!
I don't know anything either, but that hasn't stopped me from making progress :)
The guys here are a great help and encouragement.
Thanks Narfi. Started going through your FS17 thread. I’m so grateful for you guys that are so great about documenting your builds and answering so many of my questions. Your boat looks great!

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2020 3:57 pm
by narfi
hehe thanks ;)
I am just waiting for it to get warm enough and my tent to dry out from spring breakup so I can make the final push.
We cant cruise this spring so this boat is the only 'vacationing' our family will get this summer.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 1:53 pm
by Scrappy
Image

I was cutting out the hull panels today and just about done when I noticed the ply separating on one of the panels pictured above. I just picked up wood yesterday. It is Okume bs-1088. None of the other sheets I’ve cut have done this. I am planning to go back and ask that the sheet be replaced. Is this reasonable or should I just glue it myself.

Thanks

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 2:00 pm
by Jeff
Scrappy, Absolutely!! Okoume BS1088 should not be splitting. What is the brand name of the marine plywood? Jeff

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 2:25 pm
by Scrappy
Jeff wrote: Thu Apr 30, 2020 2:00 pm Scrappy, Absolutely!! Okoume BS1088 should not be splitting. What is the brand name of the marine plywood? Jeff
Thank you Jeff. The brand is Joubert. I just gave the lumber place a call and they told me to bring it in and they would replace it.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 2:29 pm
by Jeff
That is the first failure of a sheet of Joubert I have ever seen!!! Jeff

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:26 pm
by OneWayTraffic
That could have been a lot worse. A builder on here had a ply failure on a boat after he had glassed the outside. Quality plywood failures are very rare, that's why we buy quality plywood. I'd carefully check the rest of the ply as well. It's possible that someone is trying to pull a fast one with respect to the brand.

Looks like a 'blow' where water contaminates the glue line of a ply.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri May 01, 2020 1:10 am
by Scrappy
Image
Got the plywood replaced. Have three panels left to cut. Started putting the strongback together. Used 16’ 2x6s and six 5” casters. My garage floor is neither flat nor level. I plan to lock the wheels on the casters and shim them In place and leave it stationary until I get the hull glassed. I hope to dry fit the molds and stringers this weekend.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri May 01, 2020 2:44 am
by Fuzz
You will never regret putting good casters under the jig. Being able to move it around while building will come in handy a ton of times.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat May 02, 2020 12:19 am
by Scrappy
I got started on putting the molds on the strong back today. Got all the molds on minus the bow mold and the transom. Transom is not glued yet. I clamped the stringers together, as they are not glued either, and dry fit them in the molds. The one benefit of doing this is it made it really obvious which molds were off center. I started getting everything aligned and am almost there.

I have encountered one problem. The stringers are proud of the molds. I cut the stringer depth one inch shy of the baseline (bottom of sole panel in the case of the FS19). I did this so I can notch the stringers at the station locations. I have not yet notched the stringer so when I dry fit them I expected them to be about one inch proud of the molds. They however, are an inch and a half above molds C, D, and E. They are an inch above at F as expected. The pictures below might illustrate better what I am trying to explain. I went back and checked the measurements of the stringers and molds but I discovered this at the end of the day and need to apply a little more rigor. In the mean time if anyone sees a glaring mistake, please let me know.


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Getting close to straight!
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Stringer "sticking up" above mold.
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Ruler, which hopefully better illustrates what I was trying to say.
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat May 02, 2020 8:06 am
by Browndog
Not to worry. The stringer issue cropped up in my build as well. Not sure of the cause, and I documented this in my build thread. Guy, may also have dealt with this.

Just remember that the molds’ locations dictate the shape of the hull not the stringers. The stringers at this point just help everything to align correctly. Fairness of the hull is the desired outcome. Fairness can be checked & verified quickly with a long batten.

The first thing to double check is the location of the molds on the strongback. The second thing to check is that the measurements/dimensions of the molds is correct.

If everything is correct then you may have to adjust the depth of the notches in some of the molds to accommodate the stringers. This was necessary on my build.

The stringers don’t get installed until after the hull is constructed and interior fiberglassing has occurred. Once the fiberglass on the interior has been applied, the stringers and the frames/bulkheads will all need to be trimmed/modified slightly to fit.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat May 02, 2020 8:26 am
by fallguy1000
Browndog's point about hull fairness is critical.

Then on the inside; most soles reconcile to the waterline parallel. This may not be the case in some high speed planing boats that sit low astern before they are underway.

I don't know this build like others, but the boat is built fair and then the sole is built parallel to water. If the stringers are not parallel to dwl; then typically wrong.

When I built the station jigs for the Skoota, I used a self leveling laser and we drilled a 3/16" hole through the stations at dwl to help up tweak them. We actually ran two lasers.

Then as BD suggests, I walked around with a batten and realized some of my stations needed beveling. This was a female mould, so a bit different.

I can imagine notch cutting stations would have a similar potential where measuring the stringer cutout closer to the keel versus the chine could drive some variation of a half inch.

Ultimately, the stringer top to the dwl measures should be the same (if the stations are the same waterline level). You can measure these and write them on each station.

Please forgive me, I do not know how the baseline and waterline differ for this boat.

And use my reply with a grain of salt and conversation instead of cutting plans.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat May 02, 2020 4:37 pm
by GuyP
Welcome Scrappy. Don’t know how I’ve missed the start of another FS19 for 5 days. I have definitely been working steady on mine during that time. I raise the glass to you that I was enjoying in salute when I first saw your posts. Have fun. The folks on this forum will steer you through.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun May 03, 2020 1:57 am
by Scrappy
GuyP wrote: Sat May 02, 2020 4:37 pm Welcome Scrappy. Don’t know how I’ve missed the start of another FS19 for 5 days. I have definitely been working steady on mine during that time. I raise the glass to you that I was enjoying in salute when I first saw your posts. Have fun. The folks on this forum will steer you through.
Cheers Guy! And thank you. I read through yours and Jordy’s post before I do anything. Your boat is looking great. Keep up the good work.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 2:19 pm
by Scrappy
I fretted about the stringer issue for a while, triple checked everything and then adjusted the notches in the molds so the stringers would sit flush. Thanks to Browndog and Fallguy for advice and encouragement.

The epoxy supplies arrived and I glued up the stringers. I used the dowel method described by others on this forum. I used six dowels per stringer. Not sure if that was overkill but it kept everything aligned.

I also finished aligning the molds and added the bow mold. Everything is straight and square. Plan on gluing the clamping boards and transom today.

Pics below (not great)...

Yes, that is epoxy on the outside of one of the stringer panels.
Yes, I did accidentally place that panel upside down when laying out the panels to glue.
No, I am not very smart!

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Request for Admin

Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 2:31 pm
by Scrappy
Administrator,
I believe I started this topic in the wrong place. Is there anyway you can move it to the Plans and Building, Power Boats section? I anticipate will have some questions regarding mounting the transom in the next week or two and want to make sure I’m asking in the right place.
Thanks,
Todd McMahan

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 2:52 pm
by LarryA
@GuyP

Good to see another Atlanta Area builder. When all this insanity is done, would love to come by and see the FS19 project.

Larry A

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 6:19 pm
by Browndog
Scrappy, your build thread is in the same place that mine is. Don’t think there is an issue there. No need to worry about that. We’ll find it no matter where it is. Build on!

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 7:56 pm
by Scrappy
Transom glued today.
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 11:04 pm
by GuyP
Scrappy make sure you rough up that set up epoxy with some 80 grit paper before you start taping that stringer tp the frames and floor panels. The new epoxy needs something to bite into. Wet on wet is the best bond but a good sandpaper rough up is almost as good. It will be about a year from now if you’re on my timeline.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu May 07, 2020 11:54 pm
by fallguy1000
Take your time now Todd. Get it right.

Another thing to watch out for on these builds is hull panels walking off on you and the hull getting hook. Hook is not great.

Gonna be a great boat.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri May 08, 2020 8:19 pm
by Scrappy
Glued the motorwell sides to the stringers today. Did myself a favor and dry fit them on the jig and wrote “GLUE” on the correct side of the appropriate panels. Learning!

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Transom mounting question

Posted: Mon May 11, 2020 1:40 am
by Scrappy
I just want to confirm the procedure for mounting the transom to the jig: temporarily mount the transom to the motorwell sides and place the opposite ends of motorwell sides flush with the mold at station F.
Thanks.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon May 11, 2020 3:25 am
by OneWayTraffic
I believe that that is standard on most of these. The bottom of the transom needs to line up with the stringers. As long as they all line up straight it doesn't really matter. I had mine slip out of alignment on one side somehow and had a 4mm (1/6") gap at the transom to fair out. Annoying but didn't take very long to fill out.

Yes you did put this thread in the 'wrong' place. Not the first to do it either. I wouldn't be too concerned, if the admins thought it a biggie, they'd move the other threads too. I think the main difference is that the designer doesn't check the build threads as much.

The way to get a technical answer on a seperate point is to create a thread with "FS19 How do I wiggle the wot sit?" That will usually get an answer. Sometimes the designer answers, though he no longer owns this company.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon May 11, 2020 7:15 am
by Browndog
The transom is big and heavy. I believe that I put the stringers on the jig first, then the bottom panels, then the side panels, then the transom. There should be some pictures in my build thread. When I attached it to the hull sides and bottom on the mold/jig I used a temporary brace from 2x4s that I made to support it. It helps to have another set of hands when putting the full length panels on the jig and when putting the transom on as well.

Re: Transom mounting question

Posted: Mon May 11, 2020 1:33 pm
by jacquesmm
Scrappy wrote: Mon May 11, 2020 1:40 am I just want to confirm the procedure for mounting the transom to the jig: temporarily mount the transom to the motorwell sides and place the opposite ends of motorwell sides flush with the mold at station F.
Thanks.
That's it: cut your motorwell sides, fasten them to the motorwell mold and fasten the transom to the MW sides.
That transom is heavy and will need some additional support.

I can't show all the bracing in the drawings.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue May 12, 2020 10:45 pm
by Scrappy
Took a few days off from the boat to garden and work. Cleaned up the transom and stringers after gluing on the clamping boards and motorwell sides. Also got one side of both bottom panels epoxy taped together today.

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu May 14, 2020 1:14 am
by Scrappy
Spliced the other side of both bottom panels today and started on the bracing for the transom. Will get it mounted on the jig tomorrow, I hope.
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Couple of questions

Posted: Fri May 15, 2020 2:00 am
by Scrappy
Finished mounting the transom on the jig today. I aligned the transom with the height of the keel at stations E & F (most aft stations). Does this sound right?

Any opinions about how and when to best glue the bottom panels to the transom? My plan is to temporarily attach them with screws. When everything is stitched tight use EZ fillet to glue from underneath/inside. Plan to back the screws out just a bit to make sure the glue gets on all surfaces. I know others have glued in the transom before stitching.

I’ve been experimenting a little with the epoxy/fiberglass. Having read so much about not using to much resin, I’ve been trying to get the feel for what is the right amount. Should the resin completely fill the gaps in the weave or is it OK to have “sunlight” in between the weave. In much of the attached picture the space between the weave does not have resin in it but I believe the cloth got saturated. Did I use to little there?

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri May 15, 2020 8:36 am
by OneWayTraffic
If the glass is saturated everywhere it will be ok. But you will need to fill that later anyway. In my view using a bit more resin than needed is better than using less and having dryspots or air bubbles. What worked for me is to pour it on generously using the chip brush as a shovel, or just pouring from the pot. Spread with the squeegee or brush and give it time to soak in. Then try to remove excess with bubble roller and squeegee and transfer this excess (it will be foamy with bubbles) to another pot. Either discard, or mix with filler and use to fill weave somewhere the glass has gelled (it needs to be at initial cure before you can do this) or make a fillet or something.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri May 15, 2020 11:46 pm
by Scrappy
OneWayTraffic wrote: Fri May 15, 2020 8:36 am If the glass is saturated everywhere it will be ok. But you will need to fill that later anyway. In my view using a bit more resin than needed is better than using less and having dryspots or air bubbles. What worked for me is to pour it on generously using the chip brush as a shovel, or just pouring from the pot. Spread with the squeegee or brush and give it time to soak in. Then try to remove excess with bubble roller and squeegee and transfer this excess (it will be foamy with bubbles) to another pot. Either discard, or mix with filler and use to fill weave somewhere the glass has gelled (it needs to be at initial cure before you can do this) or make a fillet or something.
Thanks OneWay.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat May 16, 2020 4:44 pm
by OneWayTraffic
One other thing. If that’s a panel splice then you need to put thickened epoxy in between the panels. Then glass over so there’s no gaps or voids. It’s not clear if you have done that or not. I did not do this in my initial spliced and had to patch drill and fill later. Wasteful and more work.

Upper side panels of my c17 I had learned. Mixed only what I needed wet out the tape on plastic and primed the wood. Thickened the rest and then lay a tape down under the splice on plastIt so it doesn’t stick to the concrete. Then panel on top, Mayo thickened epoxy in the join then tape on top. Then plastic, some flat wood and 6l of water jugs as weight. Worked much better and done in a day.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat May 16, 2020 4:49 pm
by fallguy1000
White glass is generally not enough resin.

If you use a consolidation roller; it will usually do the trick.

My boat has scary low amounts of resin, but none of the matrix is white. I hope I am not gonna be in trouble for it.

For hand lamination, I almost always use the same amount of resin as glass by weight. And it has worked many times. Usually, for a bigger job, I find that to be a little too much, but on this project; we rarely spill much epoxy.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon May 18, 2020 1:46 am
by Scrappy
Started stitching today. Had a really tough time once I got forward of station B. The bottom panels pull together and form a hard point about 2’ long forcing the keel seam to rise up off the mold at Stations B and C. Stitched and restitched for a couple of hours and convinced myself I had messed up the camber there somehow and needed to trim the bottom panels. Decided to take the kids and dog down to the river for a dip instead. Figured I’d sleep on it. The good news is I think it looks great everywhere else. Fair, no waviness or hook or rocker that my untrained eye can detect.
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon May 18, 2020 5:38 am
by cape man
How far off the mold?

Re: Couple of questions

Posted: Mon May 18, 2020 1:09 pm
by jacquesmm
Scrappy wrote: Fri May 15, 2020 2:00 am Finished mounting the transom on the jig today. I aligned the transom with the height of the keel at stations E & F (most aft stations). Does this sound right?
If you use the motorwell sides as I specify in the drawings, there is no need for any alignment. It falls in place automatically. Anyway, from the pictures it looks perfect. To line up as you did is good too if you leave a gap equal to the thickness of the bottom panel. The transom sits between the bottom and side panels.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon May 18, 2020 1:13 pm
by jacquesmm
The gap between the molds and the panels is fine.
Make certain that the beam at the sheer is correct, the sides tend to flare open.

About gluing the transom: everything is welded with epoxy, no gap. The screws are temporary.

For the glass, less resin is better but all the glass must be wet with resin.

One more question

Posted: Mon May 18, 2020 3:41 pm
by Scrappy
Thanks for the reply Jacques.

I would like to follow up/ clarify the issue with the bottom panels near the bow. I have a nice uniform gap along the keel seam from the stern all the way up to around station B. When I pull the bottom panels together at the bow the bottom panels push against one another and rise up off the mold. It is not very much, an inch or so but the bottom panels are touching along the seam for about 2 feet. And when I say touching, I mean the force is so great that the small nails I am using for spacers are pressed into the wood allowing the panels to contact one another. I briefly tried larger nails to keep a gap but the panels then just kept overlapping by a half inch or so. I think I could probably get everything aligned with better spacers but I thought that having those panels under such compression ( not sure of the correct force term) was undesirable, even detrimental.

Incidentally, when I pull everything into place all 4 panels line up perfectly.

Do you recommend trimming the panels along the seam (probably up to a quarter inch of each panel) where they are contacting or gluing them in place as they are, with a gap of course, but with the high force of the panels pushing against one another?

Thanks for your time and consideration. I really appreciate the help.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue May 19, 2020 11:00 pm
by Scrappy
Stitched!
6698

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Wed May 20, 2020 11:56 am
by jacquesmm
It looks done and the fit is nice. Good job.

Re: One more question

Posted: Wed May 20, 2020 2:45 pm
by Dan_Smullen
Scrappy wrote: Mon May 18, 2020 3:41 pm Do you recommend trimming the panels along the seam (probably up to a quarter inch of each panel) where they are contacting or gluing them in place as they are, with a gap of course, but with the high force of the panels pushing against one another?

Thanks for your time and consideration. I really appreciate the help.
I was cautioned that this is actually a hard spot, and to be avoided. I spot welded with wood flour on either side of any hard spots, and then cut out meeting edges with a flush cutting tool before spot welding these areas.

This didn't fix the lifting off the mold problem, but did do away with the edges of the panels touching which can cause problems down the road.

All that to say, I think the panels touching under glass is a bigger problem than a slight lifting off the molds.

Looking great thus far!

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu May 21, 2020 5:22 pm
by fallguy1000
Panels touch means glue is absent. No panel touching is best; although not always practical.

If you are asking about panels atop or alongside; the loading becomes relevant. For loading; it is always best to provide for the loading versus not and counting on adhesives and glass only for shear forces. This would mean, for example, the bottom panels would be preferred over the top of the side panels on a bottoms up build. Again, practicality can get in the way and perfection can be the enemy of the good.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu May 21, 2020 6:14 pm
by Scrappy
I ended up trimming the bottom panels. I made a couple of attempts to stitch them without trimming but fighting the overlapping proved fruitless. I tried sanding them down while they were still on the molds but that was getting sloppy and asymmetric. Finally I let them overlap and traced where they met, then pulled them off, clamped them together, hand drew, the best I could, a fair curve halving the traced overlap. Trimmed them and put them back on and everything fell into place. No panels are touching although they are still lifting off the molds a little forward but I am really pleased the way it turned out. Over the last two days I glued the bottom and side panels to the transom and started filling the panel seams with EZ fillet. Ordering some more resin and the fiberglass cloth today. I plan on glassing the entire hull, wet on wet over a 48 hour period prior to the end of the month.
Thanks for the replies and support.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat May 23, 2020 7:59 pm
by OneWayTraffic
That's a lot of effort. I just ran a Dremel saw through to make a gap. I'm a bit of a butcher.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat May 23, 2020 10:14 pm
by fallguy1000
One thing to watch is to make sure you are relatively close to your jig/frames.

Easy to work hard on the panel fitment and then botch the frames. Then get mad at me for telling you to keep panels from pressing each other too much.

Another thing to watch for now is hook.

Hook is bad and you'll have to fair it out if you introduce hook.

Your boat will be great. Cross the Ts and dot the Is.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 7:21 pm
by Scrappy
Got the boat fiber glassed yesterday. Did from start to finish the entire boat wet on wet. Feels like a milestone in the build. Previously, I had sanded the hull with 150 grit. I measured, cut, and dry fit all the seam tape and panel pieces then removed and labeled them. The night before I vacuumed and wiped it clean and applied a thin coat of epoxy to the entire hull so it would be tack free in the morning. Started the next morning at 6:30. My brother-in-law came over at 3 and was a big help with the bottom and side panels. We also recruited my 12 year old to mix and it started moving really fast. Finished at 6:30 pm.

Today I picked up 2 20’ clear cedar 2x2s for the spray rails and have started cutting plywood strips for the rub rail. Plan on putting those on before I start fairing unless someone convinces me otherwise. Seems like the best order is somewhat debatable. Pics attached.

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 5:43 am
by Browndog
Way to go!

Getting the exterior fully fiberglassed is a big milestone.

Doing it all in one go is a great way to do it but makes for a long day. Good job.

Looks good and you can deservedly be proud.

Looking forward to see what comes next.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun Jun 07, 2020 6:59 am
by Coach
Looks great! well done

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2020 9:26 pm
by Scrappy
Got the spray rails cut to shape and plywood cut for the rub rail but once I started dry fitting them thought it better to start fairing first. Made a first attempt on the starboard bottom panel and would give it a D because I didn’t break anything. Put it on thin just filling the weave but think at that rate it would take forever. Switched to the notched trowel method on the port bottom panel. Let it cure overnight and sanded today. Started with a random orbital sander to knock down the obvious highs and then a couple of passes with my fairing board getting the ridges fair. I used the BBC blend to make the fairing compound. Plan on filling with EZ fair. Waiting on more of the fairing blend to arrive hopefully in the next day or two.

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2020 9:58 pm
by Dan_Smullen
For me, fairing was a humbling experience that started 6 months ago. :lol:
Stay after it though! She’s looking good.

Adding spray rails and rub rails is a good way to break up the monotony, and they give you some hard points to work to.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2020 7:35 am
by Jeff
Great progress Scrappy!!! Congrats, Jeff

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 1:43 am
by Scrappy
Finally got a coat of fairing compound over the entire hull using the notched trowel method. Continued sanding; my method has been to sand first with the random orbital sander then when I've knocked down the highs and I feel the ridges are close to fair I switch to the fairing board. I work station to station, making 4 passes with the fairing board, first working at a 45 degree angle to the longitudinal axis, then the opposite 45, then two passes, one parallel and one perpendicular to the long axis. There is still a little work to do on the bottom panels near the transom and the side panels at the bow, but the ridges are fair over the majority of the boat.

Next steps are to add the rub rail and spray rails. Then fair in the rails, fill the ridges with fairing compound, sand again, then a final coat with EZ fairing compound.

Started on the spray rails today. I had shaped them from 20' clear cedar 2x2s. The process started out easy enough, I used temporary screws put the spray rail in place, leaving it about 1/2 and inch off the hull, room to apply the Gel Magic. However, after I had applied the glue, because my rails are triangular, but not quite isosceles, and I had started the screws through the outer vertex when I attempted to screw them tight to the hull there was a large gap between the rail and the hull on what will eventually be the top side. Luckily my wife and 12 year old were home and they helped me while I quickly removed and replaced all the screws to get the rail to sit flush against the hull.

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2020 9:06 pm
by GuyP
Looking good. You’ll love getting that first coat of primer on her. All of that fairing blotchiness disappears. I held off with any fairing until my spray rails and strakes were taped in.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 12:45 am
by Scrappy
Got the spray rails shaped and glassed to the hull. Got the first layer of the rub rail cut and dry fit. I neglected to cut the rub rail from the side panels before stitching the boat together so this process was a little harder than it needed to be.

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 7:54 am
by BB Sig
Looking good! I like how you caught the wife getting stuff out of the garage fridge! :lol:

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2020 8:49 pm
by GuyP
Cutting out rub rails before stitching the hull together is an excellent idea. Wish I had heard about that early on also. You’re the first I recall talking about it.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 2:15 pm
by Scrappy
Making slow and steady progress. Finished putting on the rub rail and then got a second coat of fairing compound over the entire hull. Sanded the port side and transom and they are mostly fair with a few low spots to fill. Started sharpening the edges on the spray rails by building a dam on the top side from plywood strips covered with packing tape and then filling with EZ fillet.

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2020 8:11 am
by GuyP
Looking good Scrappy. Keep the steady progress going. 👍

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2020 1:13 pm
by Jeff
Agree, nice progress!! Jeff

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 2:55 pm
by VT_Jeff
Snails pace? Hardly, incredible progress in a short time, with great quality. Impressed and humbled!

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 12:57 am
by Scrappy
Finally ready for primer and paint. Put a thinned coat of epoxy over the entire hull today. Overall I am pleased with the results of the fairing and sanding, the only exception is there is a little waviness where the spray rail meets the hull. Wasn’t obvious until I put the epoxy coat on. I am going to get a coat of primer on and reevaluate before I add any more fairing compound.

The fires out here in Oregon have ruined my elk season so I’m going to hopefully prime this week instead. Waiting on the primer to arrive I ordered last week. I’m going to use the system three yacht primer and EMC quantum 99 paint. Rolling and tipping. I know very little about painting so any advice is welcomed. Specific questions I have is what grit of sand paper should I use for sanding between primer coats and paint coats? What kind of brush to use to tip?

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 7:15 am
by BB Sig
Great job!

Sorry to hear about the elk season. :( That's on my bucket list. My mule deer needs a friend on the wall and my freezer needs to be filled! :lol:

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:12 am
by Jeff
Nice progress!! Sorry about the season!! I hope you and your family stay safe out there with those crazy huge fires!!! Jeff

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 4:23 pm
by Coach
Looking great! I used foam rollers like these:
https://boatbuildercentral.com/product/ ... er-2-pack/
I was able to buy 10 packs at my local hardware store.
I found these worked great for both the System 3 primer and the Awlgrip.
I tried both chip brushes and foam brushes for tipping.
I settled in on foam as I could throw them away and did not have to pick out the loose hairs that always came loose on the chip brushes!
Good luck with your finish!

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 6:02 pm
by Scrappy
Thanks coach. Using those exact rollers. Will try the foam brush for tipping as, like you said, I had to pick out a lot of bristles applying the first coat of primer. First coat turned out OK I think. Planning on at least to more.

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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 6:03 pm
by Scrappy
two more

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2020 8:12 am
by Jeff
Nice work Scrappy!!! Jeff

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2020 8:55 am
by BB Sig
Looks great! :D

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2020 2:54 pm
by GuyP
Looking nice Scrappy. Been out of touch. Don’t remember to surf the Builers Power Boats section. Too bad about elk season and fires. I postponed a late September Wyoming Antelope trip early due to covid speculation. We non-residents have to commit in March to have a chance at a tag. I just accumulated another preference point and will work it out next year. Enjoy you fall boat building experience.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2020 8:27 pm
by GuyP
Scrappy where art thou????? Extremely interested in another FS19 in the pipeline.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 1:12 am
by Scrappy
Finally got the hull painted and flipped. Was a little frustrated painting it. I’m not a good painter and took about 7 or 8 coats(I lost count) before I decided it was good enough and was ready to move forward. Glad that part is done and I’m moving on.
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 3:31 am
by OneWayTraffic
I know the feeling. Look into vinyl wraps. As long as the surface is fair and smooth they cover well, can have some cool designs to catch the eye, and aren't that expensive compared to top quality paint.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 6:09 am
by Browndog
Congratulations on the flip!

The boat is looking great. Happy to see another FS19 project moving along nicely.

The whole sanding, fairing, priming and painting process is really tedious work that takes time and effort to get right, but makes you feel like the project is kind of standing still.

Now that the boat is flipped, you will get to do a bunch of interior construction work that will make it feel like things are moving again for a good while.

Keep it up and best wishes for continued success!

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 9:22 am
by fallguy1000
Always fun to cross the 'its painted' bridge and the 'flip'.

I am fairing forever it seams. Hehe

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 12:13 pm
by VT_Jeff
Scrappy wrote: Mon Mar 08, 2021 1:12 am ...took about 7 or 8 coats(I lost count) before I decided it was good enough...
Good GOD Man!

I admire your commitment.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2021 9:46 pm
by TomW1
I will tell you right now that is one fine looking paint job. Be proud of what you have done. Love to see another FS19 coming together. If you need any help in selecting a prop let me know.

Tom

Planning questions

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2021 12:34 am
by Scrappy
I’ve been doing a lot of planning for the layout of my boat. Stealing most of my ideas from the experts on this forum but I thought I’d share my plans and throw some questions out to make sure I’m not doing anything stupid.

First, I plan to install a v-hull tank beneath the sole. I will need to move the center frames on either side of the tank (D & E) out 12 inches to accommodate the tank. The size of the tank and location is such that the engine rigging will need to run over the fuel tank to come up under the center console. The current plan for the dimensions of the tank will give me 3 inches of clearance between the top of the tank and the sole. Any problem with the chase tubes for the engine rigging and electrical conduit over the top of the fuel tank?

I plan to have limber holes in all the center frames. I plan to foam all the compartments outboard of the stringers, with one exception, but that will mean foaming over/around the chase tubes. Is that OK?

To install cockpit drains plumbed to scuppers, I plan to add an additional frame, outside the stringers just forward of the rear bulkhead (F) and foam only forward of it. Does that seem reasonable?

Additionally, I plan to store the batteries underneath the center console, any issues there?

I’ve included a rough diagram below for reference.

I appreciate any thoughts anyone has.

Also, does anyone know where I can find center console plans to get me started? At one point I thought I remembered seeing someone had posted a rough sketch with dimensions but can’t seem to find it.

8302

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2021 6:12 am
by fallguy1000
I am not familiar with Mertens allowing the move of the transverse frames to that degree. Most of the time, the glassing of the inside skin requires extra glass to make the change you suggest. But it may be within limits. Only the designer can say yes. Or he may say add a layer of 1700 in the tank area..

The rest of the plan seems fine. Personally, I'd be a little careful about allowing enough space for tank expansion so the chase isn't noisy on the tank in warm weather. And with batteries above a tank compartment, I'd be inclined to vent the battery box and avoid mechanical switches that may spark. I don't believe batteries are NOT allowed above a fuel tank under abyc rules, but a fuel system component is not allowed above a battery, so your fuel lines cannot run above the batteries.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2021 6:24 am
by Dan_Smullen
Turning the chase tubes up 90 degrees within the ~3” of clearance between the tank and the sole may be tight. Unless the console will be wide enough to capture the open end of the tube, outboard of the stringer, it’s hard to see a different configuration. I too planned for 3” of clearance, but wound up with a little less than 2-3/4”.

What’s the plan for bedding the tank?

I had resigned to only add foam that were completely sealed, therefore no compartment with a chase running through it, due to lack of confidence sealing the penetrations, but I’ve since gotten over that. Popular opinion is such that thickened epoxy will adhere to scuffed /flame treated pvc sufficiently to seal the penetrations.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 10:26 am
by Scrappy
fallguy1000 wrote: Tue Apr 06, 2021 6:12 am I am not familiar with Mertens allowing the move of the transverse frames to that degree. Most of the time, the glassing of the inside skin requires extra glass to make the change you suggest. But it may be within limits. Only the designer can say yes. Or he may say add a layer of 1700 in the tank area..

The rest of the plan seems fine. Personally, I'd be a little careful about allowing enough space for tank expansion so the chase isn't noisy on the tank in warm weather. And with batteries above a tank compartment, I'd be inclined to vent the battery box and avoid mechanical switches that may spark. I don't believe batteries are NOT allowed above a fuel tank under abyc rules, but a fuel system component is not allowed above a battery, so your fuel lines cannot run above the batteries.
Thanks Fallguy, I’ll see if I can get an answer on the frame movement from Jacques. Still playing with the final dimensions, maybe I can shorten by a foot to minimize the displacement. Appreciate the tip regarding the expansion and rattling chase tubes. Hadn’t thought about that.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 10:43 am
by Scrappy
Dan_Smullen wrote: Tue Apr 06, 2021 6:24 am Turning the chase tubes up 90 degrees within the ~3” of clearance between the tank and the sole may be tight. Unless the console will be wide enough to capture the open end of the tube, outboard of the stringer, it’s hard to see a different configuration. I too planned for 3” of clearance, but wound up with a little less than 2-3/4”.

What’s the plan for bedding the tank?

I had resigned to only add foam that were completely sealed, therefore no compartment with a chase running through it, due to lack of confidence sealing the penetrations, but I’ve since gotten over that. Popular opinion is such that thickened epoxy will adhere to scuffed /flame treated pvc sufficiently to seal the penetrations.
Thanks Dan, I’ll be sure to do some testing with the chase tubes before I commit to the tank size. I don’t think the console will extend beyond the stringer but that would make things easier.

For bedding the tank I planned to bond reinforced plastic strips to the bottom of the tank and then bond that to the reinforced hull. It is a method recommended by the tank supplier, adopted from a book written by David Pascoe. But still learning and open to suggestions.

Is thickened epoxy preferred over 5200 to seal the chase tubes through the stringer and frames? Also if I run the fuel fill, vent, and pickup lines before I put the sole down is there any reason for chase tube? I suppose I’d need them in the areas where I plan to foam in case of needing to replace them later.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 4:16 pm
by Dan_Smullen
Scrappy wrote: Wed Apr 07, 2021 10:43 am
For bedding the tank I planned to bond reinforced plastic strips to the bottom of the tank and then bond that to the reinforced hull. It is a method recommended by the tank supplier, adopted from a book written by David Pascoe. But still learning and open to suggestions.
Bear in mind, this is my first time building a boat, but I have been fortunate to have gotten advice from experienced, professional builders. I was advised to not bed the tank on the inside of the hull, but no reinforcement was discussed. I'd trust the book you've read over advice I got. As suggested to me, I bed a fiberglass encapsulated piece of 1/2" plywood parallel to the waterline where the bottom of the stringers meet the hull, with limber holes draining to the bilge front and back. On this, between this and the tanks will be 1/4" neoprene rubber strips. I believe drainage around the tank is a important as the tank being secure. I imagine, that all of the clearance, above and below the tank, could easily eat into capacity by 20% or so. I found 2 smaller tanks was better than one large as they accounted for all required clearances without moving frames.

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Scrappy wrote: Wed Apr 07, 2021 10:43 am
Is thickened epoxy preferred over 5200 to seal the chase tubes through the stringer and frames? Also if I run the fuel fill, vent, and pickup lines before I put the sole down is there any reason for chase tube? I suppose I’d need them in the areas where I plan to foam in case of needing to replace them later.
I don't know, but glued in my first piece of PVC last night, but haven't checked it yet. I like the chase tubes. They protect the epoxy on the plywood and the hoses from chaffing.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 6:13 pm
by Scrappy
Thanks Dan, good stuff and lots for me to consider.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2021 8:51 pm
by Dan_Smullen
Quick update, the silica thickened epoxy around PVC is remarkably tight. Seems to be very strong.

She’s looking good flipped. Nice lines!

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 3:51 am
by OneWayTraffic
I used G-flex on flame treated UHMWPE to bond it. The little test coupon I used bonded tight enough to support my weight (83kg) on less than a square inch of plastic. I think I got better than that in reality, but I know that that is a minimum.

G-flex has more give than epoxy so doesn't pop off as easily, but UHMW is about the hardest thing to bond.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 1:10 pm
by Scrappy
Thanks Oneway.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 8:14 pm
by Browndog
I used a 35 Gallon V-hull tank under the sole in the FS 19 that I built.

One of the reasons I raised the sole by 1” was to provide clearance for all of the fittings and fuel hoses etc., there is very little space under the sole as designed.

I bedded the tank on neoprene strips as recommended by the tank manufacturer.

If you put a tank under the sole you will need to add another layer of Biaxial glass on the inside of the hull where the tank will rest per the building notes and the designer.

I moved the transverse frames between the stringers to accommodate the tank and left the part of the frame that was on the outside of the stringers. I also added support under the sole to stiffen the area above the tank and to accommodate mounting points for the leaning post.

In my recollection there was no room above the tank for chase tubes except for a very small one for the fuel sender wire to the gas tank fill gauge and the ground wire. My chase tubes were installed on the outside of the stringers.

My build thread includes a large number of pictures of everything I just tried to describe and would encourage you to look at the thread for whatever details that I might have forgotten about.

I would strongly recommend that you mock up a console out of cardboard before you buy any materials for it. I changed the console a few times before getting it the way we wanted. After putting the hull together, building a console is a piece of cake.

I also recommend dry fitting the sole in place before finalizing the interior design. You may find that you will want to move some stuff around or change the dimensions of the front deck and it is hard to do once the sole is glued down. I shortened the front casting deck and added a rear deck on the one I built.

Fell free to call or message me if something isn’t clear to you.

Your boat is looking good. Keep up the good work.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2021 9:28 am
by Scrappy
Browndog wrote: Thu Apr 08, 2021 8:14 pm I used a 35 Gallon V-hull tank under the sole in the FS 19 that I built.

One of the reasons I raised the sole by 1” was to provide clearance for all of the fittings and fuel hoses etc., there is very little space under the sole as designed.

I bedded the tank on neoprene strips as recommended by the tank manufacturer.

If you put a tank under the sole you will need to add another layer of Biaxial glass on the inside of the hull where the tank will rest per the building notes and the designer.

I moved the transverse frames between the stringers to accommodate the tank and left the part of the frame that was on the outside of the stringers. I also added support under the sole to stiffen the area above the tank and to accommodate mounting points for the leaning post.

In my recollection there was no room above the tank for chase tubes except for a very small one for the fuel sender wire to the gas tank fill gauge and the ground wire. My chase tubes were installed on the outside of the stringers.

My build thread includes a large number of pictures of everything I just tried to describe and would encourage you to look at the thread for whatever details that I might have forgotten about.

I would strongly recommend that you mock up a console out of cardboard before you buy any materials for it. I changed the console a few times before getting it the way we wanted. After putting the hull together, building a console is a piece of cake.

I also recommend dry fitting the sole in place before finalizing the interior design. You may find that you will want to move some stuff around or change the dimensions of the front deck and it is hard to do once the sole is glued down. I shortened the front casting deck and added a rear deck on the one I built.

Fell free to call or message me if something isn’t clear to you.

Your boat is looking good. Keep up the good work.
Jordy,
Thanks for the tips and weighing in. BELIEVE ME, I have studied your post in detail! Without it, and others like you who are so helpful I wouldn’t even be attempting a build. Still playing around with the layout and will take your advice to heart.

Re: Planning questions

Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 12:42 am
by TomW1
Scrappy wrote: Tue Apr 06, 2021 12:34 am I’ve been doing a lot of planning for the layout of my boat. Stealing most of my ideas from the experts on this forum but I thought I’d share my plans and throw some questions out to make sure I’m not doing anything stupid.

Also, does anyone know where I can find center console plans to get me started? At one point I thought I remembered seeing someone had posted a rough sketch with dimensions but can’t seem to find it.

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There are console plans here if you have not found any yet https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/prod ... use-plans/ They have been designed by Jacques and fit different size boats.

Sorry for the late reply.

Tom

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 1:00 pm
by Scrappy
Thanks Tom. Perfect!

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 10:33 pm
by Scrappy
Got the inside of the hull glassed and the stringers and frames, minus the forward two, glassed in as well. Next step for me is to put an additional layer of glass down where the fuel tank will go. It will sit between the offset center frames in the photo. After that it’s chase tubes, foam, and thru-hull fittings.
I ordered a 115 Suzuki that will take about three months to come in. After some frustrating searching around I found a really great dealer that was willing to sit down and talk about my project and answer all of my stupid questions. He wanted me to put a 3 in chase tube in but I think that is to big for my stringers and frames. He agreed to give me the wiring harness and separate hydraulic steering line in advance so I could run that through the tubes before I get the sole down. Still considering it.
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Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2021 9:02 am
by pee wee
Scrappy wrote: Thu Apr 29, 2021 10:33 pm He wanted me to put a 3 in chase tube in but I think that is to big for my stringers and frames. He agreed to give me the wiring harness and separate hydraulic steering line in advance so I could run that through the tubes before I get the sole down. Still considering it.
Good progress getting the glass down, it's really coming together (literally)!

Maybe he was thinking it was all going through one chase tube? Of course you know that's not right. I'd get the wiring harness and hydraulic lines and see how easily they pass through pipe and an elbow, but 2" seems to work for most situations. Sometimes the plug on the end of the wiring harness is pretty big, too.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2021 10:26 am
by Browndog
For the extra layer of biaxial under the fuel tank I used all of the scrap pieces that I had leftover from glassing the hull per designer recommendations. Not the prettiest glassing job but it is completely hidden so cosmetics were not required. Save the good stuff for the visible locations.

On my build there are two PVC chase tubes on the outside of each stringer. One side for electrical and the other side for fuel and steering. The two inch diameter pipes were more than adequate. Used a builder’s flexible fish to pull wires and hoses through. The hydraulic steering hoses are probably the least flexible of what needed to be fished from the console to the motor. Having an uncluttered chase tube for them was helpful.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Fri Apr 30, 2021 10:37 pm
by TomW1
Scrappy chase tubes need to be sized for what you are sending through them. Normally a 2 - 2.5" for control cables, another 2" for steering cables, you do not want to combine the two. Then a 1.5" for fuel and a 2" for electrical, and another 1-1 1/2" for depth sounder, it needs to be separate from electrical interference. Control cables and steering cables should not be in the same chase tubes as they will wear on each other and cause chaffing over time. Run the top of the chase tubes 1/3 to 1/2 below the top of the frames. Make sure you have a couple of inches between the chase tubes.

I love the FS19 and helped GuyP prop his FS19 properly. Once you get to that point and you would like my help please feel free to ask. A Suzuki 115 is a lot of power for an FS19. A 115HP pushes a much larger and heaver C19 into the lower 40 mph' range. With a 600lb less hull weight and less v at the transom the FS19 would have a top speed close to 50 with the 115.

Scrappy I played around in my calculators the 115 will give you a top speed of 48 mph and a 90 42 mph when loaded at 2200 lbs. If you go with the 90 it will help you balance out your boat as it weighs 60lbs less. Well jest some info for you.

Tom

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat May 01, 2021 6:56 am
by Browndog
Tom makes some good points and he was also helpful to me when we were propping the FS 19 that I built.

The 115 HP Yamaha four stroke that we put on the FS 19 that I built produces a top speed of 42 mph fully loaded with 3 people and full ice, gear, beverages etc.

Admittedly, it is built heavier than designed due to the addition of 6 oz fiberglass cloth covering every exposed surface, full gunwales and coaming, front and rear decks with hatches, livewell and baitwell. But, fuel economy is still exceptional: 6.8 MPG at cruise speed of 30 MPH @ 4000 RPMs.

A 90 HP like Guy put on his slightly scaled down FS 19 would also be a good choice.

The FS 19 has a hull that according to Jacques was designed for sea worthiness and efficiency with very little transition from displacement speeds to planing speeds. The boat will get on and maintain plane at relatively low speeds without much bow rise. 11-12 MPH will get it on and keep it on plane. The builder’s notes indicate that the trade off is that top speed is limited.

Regardless of how much power a builder puts on one I don’t think you’ll get much above the low to mid 40’s out of any FS 19 because of the running surface and bottom design.

90 - 115 HP would be ideal depending on how heavily built and routinely loaded, perhaps 60 - 75HP for a very lightly built minimal style build.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun May 02, 2021 12:52 am
by Scrappy
TomW1 wrote: Fri Apr 30, 2021 10:37 pm
Scrappy I played around in my calculators the 115 will give you a top speed of 48 mph and a 90 42 mph when loaded at 2200 lbs. If you go with the 90 it will help you balance out your boat as it weighs 60lbs less. Well jest some info for you.

Tom
Tom, Thanks for doing that. Great info, I was sold on the 90 before I went to the dealer and he talked me into the 115. Not sure if it's too late to change my mind but given your numbers it is something I'm considering.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun May 02, 2021 9:34 am
by pee wee
Scrappy wrote: Sun May 02, 2021 12:52 am . . . I was sold on the 90 before I went to the dealer and he talked me into the 115.
The dealer was trying to do you a service based on his experience with production boats; in his eyes a 115 would keep your boat from being underpowered. The thing is that these boats from Bateau as designed are much lighter than equal size production boats, and therefore don't require equivalent horsepower. I'd say the advice you got from the people here is more appropriate to your needs. If the weight of the two motors was the same and the cost difference wasn't an issue, then maybe . . or if you plan to load the boat down and need extra power . .

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun May 02, 2021 7:29 pm
by TomW1
Exactly peewee every boat is different and every one I help the owner prop his motor and boat for is different. Browndog built his heavier and his load was a little heavier than normal the usual so his 115 worked fine for him with a top speed of 42mph. GuyP and his FS19-5% with a 90 also gets close to 40mph with a 90 but it weighs less but he fishes usually by himself. So I propped his motor different than Browndogs. His prop was right on and needed no change. Don't remember about yours Browndog if you had to make a slight change in pitch.

I try to work with dealer props if they offer free exchanges or with Power Tech props as they only charge a $75 exchange fee. Don't want anyone spending $1500-2000 like some have on here to get the right prop. Every boat is different, flat bottom, different amount of v in the hull. Weight, crew size, HP required, gas, gear and other things that cause the boat weighs different at the dock.

Well that is sort of how it works, Tom

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Tue May 18, 2021 2:19 am
by Scrappy
8474
Got the first couple of chase tubes fitted and did a test run sending the rigging through. It went pretty good but I did need the fish tape for the control cables as the threaded ends kept hanging up at the last corner.
These two are 1 1/2” conduit. One houses the control cables and hydraulic steering tubes. The second houses the engine wiring harness and I will also run wiring from the battery forward to the bus bars through it.
I’ve been researching marine electrical systems since my practical knowledge of circuitry ended in 6th grade science. Newboatbuilder.com has some good info and there’s some great YouTube videos by Jeff Cote from Pacific Yacht Systems.
Next step for me is to pull all the tubes out, clean up the holes and seal them with epoxy. When I reinstall the tubes I plan to seal the frames and stringers with 5200.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 5:46 pm
by Scrappy
8525

Fuel tank arrived and dry fitted. Sits nicely in the hull. It is 36 gallons. I think I could have squeezed in a few more gallons but erred on the conservative side with the dimensions to ensure I had adequate room for installation.

Raising the sole an inch. Ripped an inch off 2x4s and using a dado to grove them to sit on top off the stringers and frames.

Glued in the first full bulkhead.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 6:20 pm
by fallguy1000
Pee Wee probably nailed it. Dealer hears 19' and figures you need power. In the Yamaha, the 115 is the same block as the 90 and the 70, so easy to think 115 is the go to. However, for me, too much weight maybe already in the 90s, only the F70 alternators are wimpy, so I went to twin 90s.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 7:10 pm
by Scrappy
After much consternation I revisited the dealer and went with the 90.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 7:41 pm
by fallguy1000
Scrappy wrote: Sat Jun 12, 2021 7:10 pm After much consternation I revisited the dealer and went with the 90.
Plenty of power. Two miles per hour on flat water. Big whoop.

Beautiful build.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 12:31 am
by TomW1
Scrappy wrote: Sat Jun 12, 2021 7:10 pm After much consternation I revisited the dealer and went with the 90.
You will be fine with the 90. Let me know when you are ready to get it mounted and propped and I will help you select a prop like I did Browndog and GuyP for there FS19's. I will also be able to give you a top speed with my calculations.

Will be following your build with interest.

Tom

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2021 1:36 pm
by Scrappy
8646

8647

I’ve gotten a little work done over the past few weeks. Chase tubes are all in. The fuel tank is installed and the cleats along the stringers, frames, and hull for gluing the sole down are in. Started pouring in the floatation foam yesterday. Hope to get the sole cut and dry fitted this weekend.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2021 3:50 pm
by Dan_Smullen
That all fit nicely.

Getting the sole down is a major milestone!

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2021 6:13 pm
by TomW1
Looks good Scrappy. Tom

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 9:57 am
by Jeff
Nice progress Scrappy!!!! Jeff

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2021 10:41 am
by fallguy1000
Make sure to run a #10-12 bond wire to the tank. They should have a tab for you. That line also goes to deck fill and vent if metal and then to ground bus.

Looking good.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2021 1:51 pm
by Scrappy
fallguy1000 wrote: Sun Jul 11, 2021 10:41 am Make sure to run a #10-12 bond wire to the tank. They should have a tab for you. That line also goes to deck fill and vent if metal and then to ground bus.

Looking good.
Copy on the bond wire. Thanks.

Re: FS19 in Sherwood, OR

Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2021 2:05 pm
by Scrappy
8663

Sole is in but not glued. Totally unacceptable for billiards but not terrible for a boat. There are some high spots in the foam underneath and a few places where the cleats along the hull are too high. I’ll pull the panels out and work on leveling things out a bit more. Also need to install the fuel sender in the tank and make cut outs for cockpit drains and access panels as well as support for the mounts for the cooler seat that will be at the helm.