LM18 Houston Tx

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pee wee
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Re: LM18 Houston Tx

Post by pee wee »

ericwensel wrote: Sun Nov 15, 2020 7:25 pm I would like to reduce the viscosity of the graphite/epoxy to perhaps eliminate any roller marks. I am thinking that a solvent is out of the question. Is warming the hardener/resin or warming the hull (with a space heater) an option. Do you think it would make a difference. I am in Houston so it is not like it is brutally cold here.
I'll respond to this question: short of waiting until summer comes back around, yes, warming either the epoxy or the hull or both will help. I'd say in order of preference it would be both, hull, epoxy, although it may not be easy to warm the entire hull well. And yes, I'd stay away from using solvent, too.

It's nice when you get a smooth and shiny graphite coating, but it's mostly functional.
Hank

Browndog
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Re: LM18 Houston Tx

Post by Browndog »

DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SOLVENT!

Epoxy resin is not paint, the solvent will prevent proper chemical reaction and will cause a horrible mess which will be very difficult to remove and clean.

Warming the bottles of resin and hardener in either a hot box or in a warm water bath will reduce the viscosity significantly. It will also speed up the chemical reaction and reduce the working and cure time.

Heating up your work area and the hull will also have a helpful effect.

Fairing, sanding, and masking off with tape are the best ways to produce smoothness after a coating is applied and to smooth transitions from one coating to the next. It often takes longer to prepare the surface, clean it and mask it off than to actually paint it. Multiple light coatings generally produce a better finish than fewer thick coatings.

The System 3 yacht primer is an excellent product. Easy to use and fairly low viscosity but it will likely require multiple coats. After the first coat it will likely reveal spots that need additional fairing. It is not capable of filling low spots on its own. It will however provide a very smooth surface in preparation for painting. Especially if you sand it very lightly with 220-400 grit before applying the paint.

Not sure if you have been rolling and then tipping with a soft brush. This is a very useful and effective technique to reduce the roller marks. With some coatings like Varnish, rolling and tipping is essential.

Your project is coming along nicely and looking good. Keep it up!

ericwensel
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Re: LM18 Houston Tx

Post by ericwensel »

I put another two coats of epoxy/graphite on the bottom and then started priming. I am using S3 Yacht Primer which seems really easy to work with. It has been a bit cold in here in Houston but the primer still seems to go on nice. I found the foam roller to work slightly better than the nap roller. I have two coats on. I was quite happy with the fairness but upon getting in a better light i am seeing more fairing work that will be required but no more than anticipated. I plan on putting on one more coat of S3 primer before sanding and doing some more fairing on the low spots. Then hopefully a few more primer coats.

As you can see i have left the rub rail unpainted with the hopes of keeping bright. I looked a some other builds and still do not know how that will work. specifically the transition between the deck and the rub rail. I saw a FS18 build by Seaslug that had a rub rail that was kept bright but it was installed after adding the deck. I really like that look.

I am leaning toward flipping after final fairing and priming but before top coat. I would glass the inside, install the stringers and bulkheads and then flip and apply the topsides paint before flipping again. I think it would still be light enough to flip easily. Still to be decided though.

Some updated progress photos below. It is nice to see something different than bare faring compound for once.

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Jeff
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Re: LM18 Houston Tx

Post by Jeff »

She looks great, nice work!!! Jeff

pee wee
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Re: LM18 Houston Tx

Post by pee wee »

Jeff wrote: Tue Dec 01, 2020 8:57 pm She looks great, nice work!!! Jeff
Agreed, and that boat has some sweet lines.
Hank

ericwensel
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Re: LM18 Houston Tx

Post by ericwensel »

I used a dry guide coat and located the low spots. The side that had the best light, seems to have been pretty fair. The side with less light was not so good. I guess need more light in my garage. The picture below is the not so good side after sanding, adding fairing compound and then sanding again. I am hoping the "bad side" is as good as the "good side" this time. I will probably take a break for a day or two, step back and see if i can find some more low spots (scratches and ridges) and see if can make them disapear. I expect i will be happy with the hull on the next prime coats. If i get a warm day, am going to add another graphite/epoxy coat on the bottom. Then flip.

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ericwensel
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Re: LM18 Houston Tx

Post by ericwensel »

After sanding off most of the primer and fairing the problem areas, i primed again and i am pretty happy with the results. i have a few areas to fix but they are small and should be easy to resolve.
I think i am going to flip and install the stringers and bulkheads before flipping again and painting. My main reason for not painting now is 1) i dont have the paint yet and 2) i am really nervous about picking the color. I think i am going to use Alexseal paint (the roll only mix). I would be curious if anyone has experience with this paint and can suggest a a good place to source the paint.
For now, this is my plan for colors.
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FluidDynamic
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Re: LM18 Houston Tx

Post by FluidDynamic »

Gold Coast Marine was who I settled on. I have bought two separate orders and both were shipped to me within 3 or 4 days. I even ordered the wrong product (My Fault) and they called me and asked if I meant to order it. Most of the other places online seemed to be difficult to navigate to purchase Alexseal. One other thing, they have a new roll on additive that is very cheap. I would get that as well. It really flattened out the paint.

ericwensel
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Re: LM18 Houston Tx

Post by ericwensel »

i created a rough 3D model in Fusion. This is a really good free program and it his helping me visualize as well as check dimensions. i have not decided whether to go with the conventional console or a helm box type console on post. Either way i like the idea of sitting at a height of 22-23". I also like the helm box on post as it unique and gives your feet a little more room (see example below) but the console seems structurally more sound and does not have the challenges with the control cable/hoses. Suggestions are welcome.

I plan to flip the boat on new years. It seems appropriate.

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ericwensel
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Re: LM18 Houston Tx

Post by ericwensel »

Made the flip today. See pictures below. It took three straps to pull the hull into shape with the forms in place. It seems to fit up fairly well. Looking forward to the next stage.

Without the bulk heads and forms in place.
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With the bulkheads and forms in place.
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