Today was kind of a short day workwise because I got my first COVID vaccine around midday. Spent the morning modeling on the computer.
I have a 3d printer and I've been racking my brain this whole build trying to find something that the printer could be of use for. It finally hit me a while back...router guides! First one on the list was to round off the bow. I drew 3 up. A 1" radius, a 1.25" radius, and a 1.5" radius. Printed the 1" radius first and it worked like a charm.
Until my pluge base decided to stick on me and then release itself when I wasn't clear of the part. Oooof.
That's ok. It's too tight of a bend for the Taco Marine rubrail anyway. Printing the 1.25" radius and I'll run it tomorrow...with the fixed base this time. It should remove most of that and some wood putty will fill the rest in. If I go to 1.5" it'll definitely get removed.
Also worked on getting the transom squared away. Had to adjust the deck piece I cut previously to move slightly further aft. Took the opportunity to sit the poling platform on there. It's gonna get it's legs shortened for sure. It came off of an 18' boat. I like the platform size, but it's definitely too tall. The feet are partially corroded away also, so I'll use it as an opportunity to make new feet and get them welded on.
And a shot of the transom now with the proper dip for the PT-35 and the rest at the same level as the rubrail so the rubrail will now wrap around to the dip. First rubrail layer going on tonight. I think I'll at least do 2 layers at once tomorrow. It's a lot easier as a straight 14" long piece.
Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Not a lot to write home about the rest of the weekend. Worked on a few different things here and there. Not many photos either.
The 1.25" radius guide cleared out most of my oopsie. I think I'm gonna go with this shape. I think the Taco Marine rubrail will wrap around it just fine with a little heat.
Finished the Transom rubrails. After bonding the first earlier, I was able to stack the next 3 in one shot. It's nice not having to work around a bend.
I filled all the thru hull holes with epoxy and had to do some backfilling tonight where apparently I didn't pack the holes well enough. I'll work on drilling those out this week and smoothing them back out to the surrounding structure. Bonded some cedar strips on the B and D frames. I plan on supporting the boat by those frames when I flip it so I figured I should shore that up a bit in preparation.
Added another layer of 12oz biaxial to the bottom side of the console flange. Now I'll give the whole thing a good sanding and trim the flange to final-ish width. At that point I'll analyze the wavy areas and figure out how to level them. Probably with some of the chopped strand mat i have lying around.
Goal is to flip it back over on Friday, but we have plans nearly every night this week, so we'll see if I make it or not. I at least what the holes redrilled before I flip. Could probably stand to at least have a small fillet on the rubrails because I know they'll get handled pretty heavily during the flip. Might have to wait another week.
The 1.25" radius guide cleared out most of my oopsie. I think I'm gonna go with this shape. I think the Taco Marine rubrail will wrap around it just fine with a little heat.
Finished the Transom rubrails. After bonding the first earlier, I was able to stack the next 3 in one shot. It's nice not having to work around a bend.
I filled all the thru hull holes with epoxy and had to do some backfilling tonight where apparently I didn't pack the holes well enough. I'll work on drilling those out this week and smoothing them back out to the surrounding structure. Bonded some cedar strips on the B and D frames. I plan on supporting the boat by those frames when I flip it so I figured I should shore that up a bit in preparation.
Added another layer of 12oz biaxial to the bottom side of the console flange. Now I'll give the whole thing a good sanding and trim the flange to final-ish width. At that point I'll analyze the wavy areas and figure out how to level them. Probably with some of the chopped strand mat i have lying around.
Goal is to flip it back over on Friday, but we have plans nearly every night this week, so we'll see if I make it or not. I at least what the holes redrilled before I flip. Could probably stand to at least have a small fillet on the rubrails because I know they'll get handled pretty heavily during the flip. Might have to wait another week.
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Where is the link to upload drawings for the routing templates I need?
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
JK, but if something comes up I will def check with you first. What a great resource(a 3d printer) to have for this type of work!
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
It's usefulness comes and goes. I go through periods of making stuff and then it collects dust for a while. I really want to experiement with some more robust materials because the easy to print stuff isn't the best strength-wise. For a one-off router guide it works just fine though.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 167
- Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2021 10:29 am
- Location: Big Pine Key, FL
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Looks like a lot of good progress to me. Good find on the poling platform. Just noticed that your deck is set inside of your rub rails. Was that because of your low shear line issue that you resolved with the rub rails? Or some other reason?
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 167
- Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2021 10:29 am
- Location: Big Pine Key, FL
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Also, since you and Jeff are also using the Boyd's fuel tank - wondering how you guys have resolved venting the tank? I went the same route as Jeff and ordered the off-the-self version where the filler cap will be inside the hatch. I had this set-up in a past boat, but the tank was near the transom and I ran the vent up the poling platform. Black hose on black post wasn't really noticeable. Not really an option with this build since I'm not planning on a poling platform and my tank will be forward of frame B. Running it to the side of the hull seems iffy with such a low shear. A last resort would be to run it up the grab bar - but that's not really an "overboard" location and I'm afraid would seem like an afterthought.
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
No that was the intent the whole time. Idea is the lower set pieces act as the bonding surface for the deck. Jacques says you either need the rubrail outward or strips inside the hull to give the same support. I just decided to cap it off with additional strips to build it out some more. Once the decks are glued in I'll do a roundover on the top and then put the vinyl rubrail on. End result should be something similar to this.
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
I'm hiding mine inside my center console just forward of Frame C. The filler cap that I'll put on the side of the console also has a vent. I need to check and make sure it vents when closed...if it doesn't I'll just put a P trap vent on the side.Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Mon Apr 26, 2021 9:37 pm Also, since you and Jeff are also using the Boyd's fuel tank - wondering how you guys have resolved venting the tank? I went the same route as Jeff and ordered the off-the-self version where the filler cap will be inside the hatch. I had this set-up in a past boat, but the tank was near the transom and I ran the vent up the poling platform. Black hose on black post wasn't really noticeable. Not really an option with this build since I'm not planning on a poling platform and my tank will be forward of frame B. Running it to the side of the hull seems iffy with such a low shear. A last resort would be to run it up the grab bar - but that's not really an "overboard" location and I'm afraid would seem like an afterthought.
Placing the tank forward of Frame B I think I would place a vent as high and centered on the Frame as you can stand it. One of the ones with a top shield so water rolling off the deck wouldn't flood it is probably the best bet.
I don't think there's really a good overboard option with these small boats. At least we're not forced to conform to ABYC. I'd say I'm at least trying to conform for my design in the console. There will be a wall in the console between the tank area and the rest of the console. Basically aligned with Frame C. The only electrical running into that area will be the fuel sending unit and that will be thru a bulkhead fitting.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests