Cameron's FS14LS+5%

[Mojosmantra]

Jeff - my understanding is that if there is a break in the line, the anti-siphon prevents fuel from siphoning out of the tank and into the boat. It is a USCG (and EPA?) requirement if your fuel line is below the tank at any point or runs downhill (not sure I’m stating that with 100% accuracy). The fuel demand valve only allows fuel to flow to the motor when the motor demands it. I think it’s use is primarily for portable tanks and evolved after the EPA stopped allowing those tanks to be vented. Hope that helps. Attwood has a decent YouTube video showing the two valves working in conjunction.

I’m sure there are folks around here that have a more precise understanding, but I think that’s the gist of it.

[Mojosmantra]

https://youtu.be/pGHLlaygibc

[bamaguy0]

I do know that the fuel demand valve is needed for ventless portable tanks. They puff like a balloon if left in the sun, and without that, you'll flood a carb because that's the only place for the tank to vent. I'm not sure it's needed for a vented permanent tank.

My stupid gas cans are the same way. I went to vent one the other day because it had puffed in the garage and it was pointing towards my fishing rods. Still a good 2 feet away, but pointed toward them. Didn't expect it to actually SPEW gas. I was just expecting to burp it, but nope. Doused my rods and reels in gas...2 stroke oil-mixed gas at that. I rinsed them off, but time will tell if they're OK. Maybe I'll get new fishing gear to go with a new boat.

I hate ventless fuel containers...

Anti-siphon will definitely be needed for me and could still be a good plan for you guys too. One more thing to clog up and starve the motor, though.

[Mojosmantra]

Agree that the fuel demand valve is not needed with a properly vented tank.

Regarding the anti-siphon valve, I was hoping to find an elbow version. No luck - possibly doesn’t exist because of the internal mechanism. Also was hoping to find a 3/8” NPT x 5/16” barb version. No luck there either. My understanding is that a 5/16” fuel line is preferable for a small outboard. 3/8” is Ok, but 5/16” would be better.

[TomW1]

Guys buy a quality tank from Moeller 3-24 top side tanks you will not have any problems as they meet al EPA, ABYC and USCG Regs. I and Cracker Larry researched all the ins and outs of this when the new rules came out many years ago. If you need a larger aluminum tank there are a couple of dealers that the members use. The main thing is have a shut off near the tank and a loop that is higher than the tank to the motor. The loop is the anti-syphon preventer. Go with a 3/8 hose it is the standard size these days and will not flood your motor. If your not sure check with your dealer and see what your fuel intake size is. 3/8 is almost pretty much the standard these days, except for larger motors.

Tom

[bamaguy0]

Progress is slow, but I've wrapped up the fillet underneath the rubrail. Just applied a generous coat of neat resin to seal everything up to make sure no bare wood is still exposed. Once that cures I'll go back with some Quickfair and smooth out the humps and bumps. I'm also finalizing the flat surface for the boweye. That will also get a swipe or so of Quickfair to blend into the hull.

After the Quickfair I'll do another coat of graphite/epoxy, then a couple coats of primer, a final fairing sand, probably another coat or 2 of primer, then she'll be ready for paint.

[bamaguy0]

On Sunday I Quikfaired the rubrail fillet and started sanding on that. I'm about halfway thru sanding it down and I think I'll have to touch up a few spots. I'd say the application got me 90% there.

Also added another layer of CSM to the console flange. I flipped it over and let it cure allowing gravity to do it's thing to try to level it all out. It did an OK job, but I'm taking it one final step further tonight. I layed out new plastic and marked the outline of the flange. I removed the console from the plastic and then applied a thick mixture of milled fiber and fumed silica around the perimeter then set the console back down on top. This should form a shim to level it out the rest of the way assuming all goes as planned. I'm happy with the thickness, so I just need to get it somewhat level and then I can move on and start fairing it. Would be nice to be able to get some coats of primer on that when I do the final prime of the hull.



I think with the way things are going so far my goal is to get the additional layer of graphite/epoxy on the hull by the end of this upcoming weekend. Then maybe, just maybe I could be ready to paint by the next weekend. Unfortnately this weekend would be better for painting temp-wise, but I'm just not there.

2nd covid shot on Friday. Here's to hoping that doesn't put me down for a day or so!

[VT_Jeff]

Way to keep the candle burning!

Are you going to paint over the graphite? Your epoxy/quickfair/sand/prime/quickfair/sand/graphite/prime/sand/paint plan has my head spinning, it's good you got it recorded for reference!

[bamaguy0]

Yeah I plan to paint over the graphite. I'm ok with some scuffing on the hull paint as long as the graphite underneath protects the glass.

The priming again after the graphite is for a re-fair basically. Just to make sure I've got it as good as I can. I did have to sand some runs and stuff in a couple spots plus the bumps in the graphite that I cleaned up, so I'd like to smooth that out with a couple coats of primer before finally painting.

It is probably excessive.

[troutbum69]

Agree that the fuel demand valve is not needed with a properly vented tank.

Regarding the anti-siphon valve, I was hoping to find an elbow version. No luck - possibly doesn’t exist because of the internal mechanism. Also was hoping to find a 3/8” NPT x 5/16” barb version. No luck there either. My understanding is that a 5/16” fuel line is preferable for a small outboard. 3/8” is Ok, but 5/16” would be better.

Hey mojo here’s a 5/16 stem to 3/8 male npt
https://www.hydraulics-etc.com/205-106/ ... ey=205-106