Progress for this weekend. I think my forelocker areas are ready for prime and paint! TBD on if I care to fair them out any. I think I'll wait and see what a couple coats of primer look like on them before making the call.
I got my rod tubes bent and set them out of the way.
Here's an inprocess photo of getting the hatch gutters situated into the frames.
I cut out a little more than needed so I can kinda bed them into the epoxy adhesive and ensure they're level to the deck cleating. I also rounded the corners of the frame cutouts. Squares are stress risers and although the epoxy will weld it all back together, I just decided to err on the side of caution. I rounded the bottom edges of the gutters to match.
Here's the rest of the holes cut out. Speakers, lights, and rod tubes are what all the holes are for.
Found the aftmost location of the aft hatch gutter system and am putting in deck support to tie in there. This will also be the fore end of the motorwell. I also notched the deck cleats at Frame D to locate the hatches as far forward as I can.
And as far as side projects go I finally got around to putting some primer down on the console after fairing and the livewell. Console outside is good 'nuff. I'm gonna flip it over and paint the inside with bilge paint then flip it back over and paint the outside hull color. Livewell will get a 2nd coat of primer and then I'll decide if anything needs fairing or if it's good 'nuff too. I really need to wrap up these side projects so I can start a couple others.
Flying out for another work trip tomorrow. Should be back Wednesday and I'll be mostly working from home again so more time on the boat.
Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Who needs deck framing with hatch gutters like that! Stout! You and CR can start a support group for those who feel the need to fair components that don't technically need to be faired.
That console looks great! I'd like to see something in the photo for scale.
Safe travels.
That console looks great! I'd like to see something in the photo for scale.
Safe travels.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
The gutters are thick, but it's really surprising how light the cedar is. I see why seaslug likes to use it for his hatches.
I'll get another photo of the console with something for scale. The front seat is about 13" deep by 18" wide and the back is about 13" tall as well. Im going to dismantle a folding fishing seat and attach the cushions to it as that's about as close to the size as I could find without going full on custom.
Trip ended early. I got what I thought would take 2 days done in about a half a day, so I'm actually already back home.
I'll get another photo of the console with something for scale. The front seat is about 13" deep by 18" wide and the back is about 13" tall as well. Im going to dismantle a folding fishing seat and attach the cushions to it as that's about as close to the size as I could find without going full on custom.
Trip ended early. I got what I thought would take 2 days done in about a half a day, so I'm actually already back home.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 167
- Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2021 10:29 am
- Location: Big Pine Key, FL
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
To me, to fair or not fair the lockers is all about cleaning in the future and how easy you want that to be. I’d fair them because I hate little crevices that I can’t get clean.
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Please never look inside my lockers, unless it's dark out and you're wearing sunglasses.Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Tue Aug 17, 2021 5:21 pm To me, to fair or not fair the lockers is all about cleaning in the future and how easy you want that to be. I’d fair them because I hate little crevices that I can’t get clean.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Kinda where I'm at. Doesn't have to be perfect but at least a little continuity will help.Mojosmantra wrote: ↑Tue Aug 17, 2021 5:21 pm To me, to fair or not fair the lockers is all about cleaning in the future and how easy you want that to be. I’d fair them because I hate little crevices that I can’t get clean.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 167
- Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2021 10:29 am
- Location: Big Pine Key, FL
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Your boat, your lockers and I don’t have to clean them. Works for me. I actually envy people that can let stuff like that slide. Wish I could.Please never look inside my lockers, unless it's dark out and you're wearing sunglasses.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 167
- Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2021 10:29 am
- Location: Big Pine Key, FL
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
From my experience, the biggest PITA was where two inside corners meet. Otherwise is was pretty simple.Kinda where I'm at. Doesn't have to be perfect but at least a little continuity will help.
Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%
Alright, looking for advice here. I think I know what to do, but I'd like more experience to weigh in as well.
This is to accomodate my livewell drain. It comes off the bottom and although the well is above the stringer, the drain is slightly below. I planned for this and I just want to make sure what I'm doing is kosher.
I'm going to put a floor in on the outside of the stringers at stringer height except between the 2 marks shown below.
There, I'll dip the floor shallow in order to route the hose off the drain fitting. What I'll need to do is place I think at least 2 holes in the stringer. One for the hose to run through and the other to drain the low area. You can see how low we're talking below.
I don't anticipate needing to cut to the top of the stringer, but I will definitely be less than 1X the Diameter away from the top edge.
I think what I'll need to do is build a doubler on the floor side of the stringer that follows the contour of the floor dip and follows the top edge. That gives me more effective thickness. I'm wondering if that's sufficient or if I need to reinforce the other side as well? Maybe a layer of 12oz biax?
This is to accomodate my livewell drain. It comes off the bottom and although the well is above the stringer, the drain is slightly below. I planned for this and I just want to make sure what I'm doing is kosher.
I'm going to put a floor in on the outside of the stringers at stringer height except between the 2 marks shown below.
There, I'll dip the floor shallow in order to route the hose off the drain fitting. What I'll need to do is place I think at least 2 holes in the stringer. One for the hose to run through and the other to drain the low area. You can see how low we're talking below.
I don't anticipate needing to cut to the top of the stringer, but I will definitely be less than 1X the Diameter away from the top edge.
I think what I'll need to do is build a doubler on the floor side of the stringer that follows the contour of the floor dip and follows the top edge. That gives me more effective thickness. I'm wondering if that's sufficient or if I need to reinforce the other side as well? Maybe a layer of 12oz biax?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests