Cameron's FS14LS+5%

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TomW1
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by TomW1 »

bamaguy0 wrote: Sat Aug 21, 2021 1:13 pm Alright, looking for advice here. I think I know what to do, but I'd like more experience to weigh in as well.

This is to accomodate my livewell drain. It comes off the bottom and although the well is above the stringer, the drain is slightly below. I planned for this and I just want to make sure what I'm doing is kosher.

I'm going to put a floor in on the outside of the stringers at stringer height except between the 2 marks shown below.

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There, I'll dip the floor shallow in order to route the hose off the drain fitting. What I'll need to do is place I think at least 2 holes in the stringer. One for the hose to run through and the other to drain the low area. You can see how low we're talking below.

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I don't anticipate needing to cut to the top of the stringer, but I will definitely be less than 1X the Diameter away from the top edge.

I think what I'll need to do is build a doubler on the floor side of the stringer that follows the contour of the floor dip and follows the top edge. That gives me more effective thickness. I'm wondering if that's sufficient or if I need to reinforce the other side as well? Maybe a layer of 12oz biax?
Question for you why are you not going straight out the transom?

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

bamaguy0
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

It's a flow-rite system, so that goes back to the valve which is connected to both the transom and the livewell pump. I placed the transom openings at the lowest point I could.

They're the left and right of center holes. The overflow is on the left and the pickup for the flow rite valve is on the right.

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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

Came across this thread and the debate that ensued within.

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=64446&hilit=Hole+i ... &start=280

I think I can drill the hole and run the hose just a little lower and essentially hit the center third of the stringer and call it good. Floor will still have to dip down, but I've come to grips with that already because I do not want to embed it in case of leaks in the future.

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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by VT_Jeff »

If there is any concern in the end, a doubler on one or both sides will cost about nothing in terms of time or weight. I suspect you only need to double the space above the hole, but I'm not an engineer, so my suspicions should be treated with suspicion.
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Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
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bamaguy0
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

Lots of good progress this weekend.

Friday I got the first coat of bilge paint on the fore locker and live well.

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I also put a single coat of bilge paint inside the console. Flipped the console around and put the first coat of paint on as well. Gonna have it match the hull.

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I made some risers for the chase tubes to prevent water from intruding. I glued 2 pieces of 3/8 ply together. Ill give them their final shape then glue them in over the tubes.

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While I was trying to figure out the hose routing I snapped a pic of the hatch layout in the rear with the livewell in place.

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Unfortunately, I also realized I had made a slight miscalculation with my hatches and rod storage tubes. Guess I only get 1 tube per side going rear.

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And I glued the sole cleats for the rear locker floor in place. For the rear I inset the soles 3/8 so the floor won't sit on top of the stringer but flush with them. Between the marks on the left side I didn't apply any epoxy so it should trim right out and then I'll set it lower. Seemed eaiser trying to get it level that way.

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And Jeff, you were wanting to see some scale of the console so I snapped some pics with my tape measure nearby.

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bamaguy0
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

Made some progress on the fore and aft locker areas this week. Also a couple other things.

Got a folding chair in. Dismantled it to see how it would fit on the console. I think this will do. I'll need to build a frame to stand it off the hatches that they'll cover. I'll get back to that later...

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Earlier in the week I glued down the battery box shelf.
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A lot of the foreward work consisted of working on the hatch gutters. First I laid out the deck openings back on top of the gutters to mark the edges of the gutter. I offset those lines inward 1/2" to mark the CL of the gutter, then made marks every 1/2" or so to drill 1/2". I kept with 1/2" vs going larger because I could set a drill stop. I didnt wanna try to finagle the entire gutter under the press. Time will tell if this makes the routing job a chore. So I drilled a bunch of 1/2" holes. The raw cedar broke out a bunch between holes so it actually cleared out more than just where I drilled.

Next thing was prepping the deck pieces for gluing to the gutter. The outside will serve as the path guide for the gutter. At least on the outside. I have 3/4" router bits so I will have to make a guide for the inside as well.

Cut out the gutter tracks in the deck. This basically leaves two side panels on the aft portion and will leave a big U in the foreward bit.

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Before I completely dismantled the deck pieces I made markings on other pieces and the rubrail to try to ensure that everything aligns again. Here I used the fore deck piece to make sure I set the aft pieces in the right location for bonding.

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Here is after the aft side pieces were cured and the rest of the deck was cut out for gutter tracks. I laid the filler pieces back in to get a visual on how it will look. I like it!

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And with the hatches themselves.

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Also installed another deck support forward of the gutters.

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Moving to the rear...worked on getting the dead space outside the stringers ready for foam and flooring. I fabri-cobbled the dip in the floor on the port side. This will be to accommodate routing the livewell drain hose thru the center 1/3 of the stringer height. It's ugly now, but I think it will clean up alright. I went ahead and put the dip in so I wouldn't have to shape that in the foam.

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Foam!
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Back to the fore. Home Depot down here stocks 1/2" King Starboard in 2'x4' pieces. Figured that would make good mounting surfaces for componentry. First one to go in is on Frame B behind the battery. This one will hold the charger, circuit breaker, bus bar, and a terminal block for the fore area wiring.

You may say that you can't bond HDPE, but I have ways!

Ever heard of Stern Savers? It's a piece of HDPE you glue to your transom for your transducer mount. The trick? Tapped holes. The glue itself creates plugs that secure the board to the surface.

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Here's a mockup of it's location.

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And bonding...I did also flame treat it as well which improves adhesion. I used GFlex G655 which advertises pretty decent HDPE bond strength with a flame treated surface, so we will see how this holds up.

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This week I will be gluing the fore deck and the inner pieces to the fore hatch gutter and sanding down the foam in the aft and gluing in the floor.

Jeff
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by Jeff »

Excellent progress!!! Jeff

pee wee
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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by pee wee »

Image


Image

It's hard to tell from the photo, but did you remove the bilge paint where you bonded the battery shelf to the hull? If you did, it's a very neat job!

Great progress on your build, thanks for sharing. :D
Hank

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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

pee wee wrote: Mon Aug 30, 2021 9:56 am
It's hard to tell from the photo, but did you remove the bilge paint where you bonded the battery shelf to the hull? If you did, it's a very neat job!

Great progress on your build, thanks for sharing. :D
Yeah I scuffed it back down so that the fiberglass was visible in the bonding area. Also used fumed silica to thicken vs wood flour to not contrast so bad. I will touch up the bilge paint when I paint the aft lockers also.

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Re: Cameron's FS14LS+5%

Post by bamaguy0 »

Remainder of the deck panels bonding to the hatch gutters.

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TBD on how long it takes for me to work up the courage to route out the gutter! :help:

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