Trent's FS14 LS Build

[VT_Jeff]

That's a good idea. I find that by weighing in grams it's easier to do math in my head. If the ratio is 100:46 that's 10:4.6, and it's easy to mentally do any multiple of that. I've gone a small as 1:0.4 and it works fine. If you measure in oz it's all more difficult to do mentally. Totally agree on having supplies in bulk at your mixing station.

Joe,

Now I'm going to check to see if my scale does grams, I'm guessing it does.

Is it the location of the decimals that simplifies it since the units in grams are so much smaller?? The ratios don't change so I'm not sure I'm quite grasping the difference.

I like doing math in my head but only for stuff less important than calculating tips for a bar tab. When it comes to mixing epoxy, unless the scale says 1.00 or .10 , I'm looking up at the chart to read my total weight.

[TomW1]

I have never used any thing but plastic glasses and medicine cups. It has worked through the total rebuild of one boat and other various projects. For Quick Fair I use a plasterers hawk and just estimate by eyeball how much A & B mix it on the hawk and have never missed it. From the hawk I can take it directly to the place I need it and use a 12" trowel or a 6".

I have the scale method but is to fiddle faddle for me.

To each his own.

Tom

[Mojosmantra]

So here's some pics from today's fix. Using two sheets of ply, I laid out a new base line and dimension "stations", placed my existing plates on that, and then transferred the correct dims:



The batten here shows where the line should be on the bottom plate:



An overall view showing what needed to be trimmed from the bottom and side plates:



Stacked them and cut 'em:



Re-stitched and now I have a flat deck. Amazing what happens when you read directions:





Finally, don't know if this is an already discovered method or not - or acceptable for that matter, but if you've got a hard spot because you're having trouble getting the PVC to do it's job, drive a screw into it - works wonders when the zip tie isn't able to pull it enough:

[VT_Jeff]

So here's some pics from today's fix. Using two sheets of ply, I laid out a new base line and dimension "stations", placed my existing plates on that, and then transferred the correct dims:

Great work, great save!

How is the fit of the panels to the molds?

[Mojosmantra]

Excellent. Much better than before.

[joe2700]

That's a good idea. I find that by weighing in grams it's easier to do math in my head. If the ratio is 100:46 that's 10:4.6, and it's easy to mentally do any multiple of that. I've gone a small as 1:0.4 and it works fine. If you measure in oz it's all more difficult to do mentally. Totally agree on having supplies in bulk at your mixing station.

Joe,

Now I'm going to check to see if my scale does grams, I'm guessing it does.

Is it the location of the decimals that simplifies it since the units in grams are so much smaller?? The ratios don't change so I'm not sure I'm quite grasping the difference.

I like doing math in my head but only for stuff less important than calculating tips for a bar tab. When it comes to mixing epoxy, unless the scale says 1.00 or .10 , I'm looking up at the chart to read my total weight.

Right I just find it easier to multiply in my head than divide, so if 30g of A looks right then just multiply 4.3 x 3 to get 12.9g of B to add. And sorry I left out an important detail, I tare between the 2 parts. So put some cardboard on the scale, tare, add part A, tare, add part B. I don't worry about the total weight. Just a different style, your way makes a lot of sense too.

Oh and my scale only does tenths, so I can easily do 10g:4.3g. Doing small batches in oz I would be less precise. No issue for bigger batches. You can get fine results eyeballing this stuff, but I find weighing is just as quick, and I never have to wonder if something isn't curing because I mixed it wrong. Also don't end up with part A or B leftover because I was constantly using slightly less of one. You get a fine boat either way.

[bamaguy0]

Hey Trent! Great work on the recovery! Sorry I wasn't around to put my two cents in earlier. This month's been a blur for me. Hopefully I'm back to some form of normalcy now.

About the earlier CAD discussions and to clear any confusion, I did loft the sides in Fusion360 to make a 3D Model, but they're not based on the Hull Panels. They're simply following splines off the corners of each Frame located in position. For the purpose of digital mockup and rough estimation, I believe this to be close enough. Splines will follow the high points about like the plywood will. Feel free to shoot me a PM or comment on my build thread if you have any questions or want me to check anything out. I've modeled just about everything I plan to put in the boat at this point from switch panels, to a Tach, Fuel Gauge, even a custom Transom bracket.

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Pardon the gaps and discontinuities, I've made a few tweaks and haven't updated some of the lesser-important items yet.

I'll subscribe to your build thread as well and watch your progress! This has been a fun ride for me, but it's definitely work that taxes both your mind and body. Seaslug says you can't build just one, but I think I might have to disagree with him on that.

[Mojosmantra]

Thanks Cameron. Following your thread and saw the latest update - looks like good progress to me.

[Mojosmantra]

Question about the transom...I'm having a hard time visualizing the "phasing" of the epoxy/glass/finish on the top of the transom. I'm leaning towards hull painting before the flip. In that case, the top of the transom is still raw after the flip, right? Which, I'm assuming rules out glassing/tabbing the top of the transom - unless there is some destruction of the newly applied paint. Then again, the top of the transom seems to deserve some glass. So, like I said, I'm having trouble visualizing this sequence. How did you guys do it?

[bamaguy0]

I wrestled with that time and time again. I came to the conclusion that no method would be great either way. I don't have any plans to glass the top of the transom but I will sand it flush and apply a generous amount of epoxy to seal the edge. Probably a couple or three coats. Now that I think about it I should do that before I flip it back over and paint. Epoxy runs scare the everliving daylights out of me. I had one already from I think covering the inside of the hull. It proved to me my process choice of not painting until the inside structure is mostly complete was worthwhile.

The epoxy is what makes it waterproof, not the glass so I don't see much value in capping it with a layer.

Some boats have a trim piece to cover it and it's usually gooped and screwed down. Could fashion one from some aluminum or SS sheet if you wanted to get fancy.