You have plenty of foam those two small compartment will be air tight and provide there own buoyancy without any foam. Besides foam adds weight you don't need in the bow. It is expensive and save your money for some bling elsewhere.
Tom
SK14 Build in NC
Re: SK14 Build in NC
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2021 8:14 am
- Location: North Carolina
Re: SK14 Build in NC
Sole is 6mm.
Thinking I’ll just throw the excess cutoffs from the other sections in there.
I’ve already put (2) 2lb foam kits in the thing, double what’s included in the BOM, which is why I’m hesitant to add more.
Thinking I’ll just throw the excess cutoffs from the other sections in there.
I’ve already put (2) 2lb foam kits in the thing, double what’s included in the BOM, which is why I’m hesitant to add more.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2021 8:14 am
- Location: North Carolina
Re: SK14 Build in NC
Random question for bedding hardware…
When installing the hanger bolts for my removable grab rail (which I installed extra backing for) does this process sound correct?
1. Overdrill holes
2. Fill with wood flour thickened epoxy, let it cure
3. Drill pilot hole
4. Coat hanger bolt threads with 5200 or similar and screw in place
Would this process work surface mounting cleats to the rub rail and other miscellaneous accessories (transducer bracket, push pole holder, anchor pin bracket, etc…)? Or for smaller items could steps 1 and 2 be bypassed and just bed ss screws in 5200?
When installing the hanger bolts for my removable grab rail (which I installed extra backing for) does this process sound correct?
1. Overdrill holes
2. Fill with wood flour thickened epoxy, let it cure
3. Drill pilot hole
4. Coat hanger bolt threads with 5200 or similar and screw in place
Would this process work surface mounting cleats to the rub rail and other miscellaneous accessories (transducer bracket, push pole holder, anchor pin bracket, etc…)? Or for smaller items could steps 1 and 2 be bypassed and just bed ss screws in 5200?
Re: SK14 Build in NC
I sleep better knowing all my holes are over-drilled and filled, but I know some marine professionals that just go the 5200 route when installing stuff on the transom. My Honda outboard manual says to just use silicone in the bolt holes when mounting the motor, which seems like a head-shaker to me, but who am I to question industry leaders? The motor mounts are above the waterline, maybe that plays a role.huckleberry wrote: ↑Tue Sep 21, 2021 9:39 am Random question for bedding hardware…
When installing the hanger bolts for my removable grab rail (which I installed extra backing for) does this process sound correct?
1. Overdrill holes
2. Fill with wood flour thickened epoxy, let it cure
3. Drill pilot hole
4. Coat hanger bolt threads with 5200 or similar and screw in place
Would this process work surface mounting cleats to the rub rail and other miscellaneous accessories (transducer bracket, push pole holder, anchor pin bracket, etc…)? Or for smaller items could steps 1 and 2 be bypassed and just bed ss screws in 5200?
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Re: SK14 Build in NC
Remember guys that manuals and boat yard professionals are used to dealing with all glass boats. We have Meranti or Okume between the glass we have to protect, that is why we over drill and fill any hole, where ever it may be.
Regards, Tom
Regards, Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2021 8:14 am
- Location: North Carolina
Re: SK14 Build in NC
Got the sole glued down. Made a little paracord wrap for the grab rail also.
Don’t have a picture, but I’ve applied 3 coats of neat epoxy to the sole.
Planning to do the fillets tonight but I’m contemplating if I should fiberglass the sole and tape the joints from the sole to the hull.
Thoughts on wether I should spend the time and material on this?
I do plan on covering most of the deck with a faux teak SeaDek type mat. Maybe that will provide enough protection for the sole without FG?
Don’t have a picture, but I’ve applied 3 coats of neat epoxy to the sole.
Planning to do the fillets tonight but I’m contemplating if I should fiberglass the sole and tape the joints from the sole to the hull.
Thoughts on wether I should spend the time and material on this?
I do plan on covering most of the deck with a faux teak SeaDek type mat. Maybe that will provide enough protection for the sole without FG?
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2021 8:14 am
- Location: North Carolina
Re: SK14 Build in NC
Also, if I don’t FG the sole, should I still fair the entire thing?
Re: SK14 Build in NC
I'd tape the joint between the sole and the hull (I'm surprised it isn't in the lamination schedule), I'd also tape the joints between sole panels. Wherever you will have SeaDek won't need any more attention than that. Where the sole is exposed- if it's going to see some abuse I'd throw some glass on there, too. I wouldn't fair anything that won't show.huckleberry wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 8:43 am Don’t have a picture, but I’ve applied 3 coats of neat epoxy to the sole.
Planning to do the fillets tonight but I’m contemplating if I should fiberglass the sole and tape the joints from the sole to the hull.
Thoughts on wether I should spend the time and material on this?
I do plan on covering most of the deck with a faux teak SeaDek type mat. Maybe that will provide enough protection for the sole without FG?
Hank
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2021 8:14 am
- Location: North Carolina
Re: SK14 Build in NC
10-4, thanks! The joint between the sole and hull is noted in the “heavy duty” version but says not “required”. I just didn’t know if anyone had an experience where they’d wished they followed the heavy duty version.pee wee wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 9:31 amI'd tape the joint between the sole and the hull (I'm surprised it isn't in the lamination schedule), I'd also tape the joints between sole panels. Wherever you will have SeaDek won't need any more attention than that. Where the sole is exposed- if it's going to see some abuse I'd throw some glass on there, too. I wouldn't fair anything that won't show.huckleberry wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 8:43 am Don’t have a picture, but I’ve applied 3 coats of neat epoxy to the sole.
Planning to do the fillets tonight but I’m contemplating if I should fiberglass the sole and tape the joints from the sole to the hull.
Thoughts on wether I should spend the time and material on this?
I do plan on covering most of the deck with a faux teak SeaDek type mat. Maybe that will provide enough protection for the sole without FG?
Re: SK14 Build in NC
I agree tape all the joints to prevent water intrusion below deck. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot] and 4 guests