Hi Tim,
It is only a dry fit at the moment, yes the stringers will need the notches cut. I am planning to do this on the weekend after they have been glued. I learnt from the canoe it is much easier to align panels if screws are used. The screws can be removed before the resin has fully hardened.
I have been watching your build as it very close to the CX19. I need to get a better camera though as it is from a video camera. Your pictures have been a fantastic help in this forum. Building the model first has been great help in understanding the plans, but I would not use balsa again as it was very hard to get it to the exact scale. I would use plywood for the next one even though it is more expensive.
What timber did you end up using for your engine mount on the transom? I need to read up again on this?
CX19 progress updates Perth WA
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My transom in two layers of 9mm ply with the clamping board (I guess that's what you mean) being a further two layers of 9mm ply on the inside running right the way across the transom. No special timber."gerry"
What timber did you end up using for your engine mount on the transom? I need to read up again on this?
You can just about see the edges of it in this pic (you might need to turn up the brightness on your monitor a bit though...)
T
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Thanks Tim, I did some further reading on the clamping board, and I will opt for the hardwood clamping board, even though all plywood transoms can be used. Though from what I have read in the forums it must be glassed with care to eliminate any chances of cracking. I will also double check the clamping board height will match the motor beforehand as well. I will also use the 12mm ply for the outboard well. So need to go to the timber store again soon! In the meantime I can finish glueing the stringers. I had second thoughts on cutting the notches after glueing, I thought it would be easier beforehand but will soon see.
I aligned all the frames so the cockpit sole was level with the tops of the stringers (upside down) but with Station C I had to cut the notches deeper than expected to get the stringers level. Not sure if this correct but the floor is level and alligned correctly as far as I can tell.
I have posted some pictures of the progress so far. I am trying to get the hull finished before April but will see how I go! The humidity now is quite good..
I aligned all the frames so the cockpit sole was level with the tops of the stringers (upside down) but with Station C I had to cut the notches deeper than expected to get the stringers level. Not sure if this correct but the floor is level and alligned correctly as far as I can tell.
I have posted some pictures of the progress so far. I am trying to get the hull finished before April but will see how I go! The humidity now is quite good..
Gerry -sent you an email....
just wanted to let you know i sent you an email. didn't want you to delete it not knowing where it came from..
please add me to your address book so i won't get put in the JUNK pile
Thanks Jeff
please add me to your address book so i won't get put in the JUNK pile
Thanks Jeff
Thanks Jeff
building CX-19
building CX-19
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Hi Jeff, I got your email.
I am using the metric plans so I built the model using 1:10 scale. This makes it very easy to do all the measurements "in your head". All measurements are in millimetres, so fullsize the length is 5800mm and the model length is 580.0mm.
The full sized plywood sheets I can get here are 6mm, 9mm, and 12.5mm. If I was doing the model again I would use thin plywood sheets from the model shop that are 0.6, 0.9, and 1.2mm thick. The curvature of the hull panels will then be correct.
Having the model can then be "rough" guide later as you can measure it and times 10 to get the full size and then refer to the plans for the exact value if needed.
I am using the metric plans so I built the model using 1:10 scale. This makes it very easy to do all the measurements "in your head". All measurements are in millimetres, so fullsize the length is 5800mm and the model length is 580.0mm.
The full sized plywood sheets I can get here are 6mm, 9mm, and 12.5mm. If I was doing the model again I would use thin plywood sheets from the model shop that are 0.6, 0.9, and 1.2mm thick. The curvature of the hull panels will then be correct.
Having the model can then be "rough" guide later as you can measure it and times 10 to get the full size and then refer to the plans for the exact value if needed.
Thanks for the info.......i have done a few models before and hope to get this one figured out soon..
have you heard of the S.S. MINNOW (from Gilligan's Island. tv show here in the US) and the ORCA from the movie JAWS..
I have done these models in balsa and 1/8"ply
both are 30" long
I'll send you some pics of them if you'd like.
HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!
have you heard of the S.S. MINNOW (from Gilligan's Island. tv show here in the US) and the ORCA from the movie JAWS..
I have done these models in balsa and 1/8"ply
both are 30" long
I'll send you some pics of them if you'd like.
HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!
Thanks Jeff
building CX-19
building CX-19
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Back again, have finally glued the first stringer, only three to go! It is a long weekend this week so should be able to glue the rest tomorrow and Saturday, but will be a very hot 38C for the next three days!. I have been looking at the wood for the clamping board and have found a plank the right size but is rough cut which I have read should be ok.
I have also been looking up outboard motors that are likely to go on the back. The plans I have say 90 to 130 max, but I have seen 150HP max as well. I would like to use a Yamaha four stroke which are 115HP and the next one up is 150HP, either way the mounting plate is the same which leads to another question on the clamping board. The top bolts will go through the tramsom ply and the clamping board but the bottom bolts will miss the clamping board. Is this ok? and will the 150HP Yamaha be ok?
Gerry
I have also been looking up outboard motors that are likely to go on the back. The plans I have say 90 to 130 max, but I have seen 150HP max as well. I would like to use a Yamaha four stroke which are 115HP and the next one up is 150HP, either way the mounting plate is the same which leads to another question on the clamping board. The top bolts will go through the tramsom ply and the clamping board but the bottom bolts will miss the clamping board. Is this ok? and will the 150HP Yamaha be ok?
Gerry
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