CV16 Wyvern

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chrisobee
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Re: CV16 Wyvern

Post by chrisobee »

ks8 wrote:Consider biax on the CB. And that will increase the thickness that the CB case has to allow in there, especially after coatings of primer and paint, after fairing the glass. The plans do not specify glass on the CB, but occasionally a builder finds that it is a small expense for the strength and confidence it adds, but the case has to have room for the thicker board.
I intend to biax the case alt lease all round the top front and back. I will leave the bottom where I will biax the case to the bull on both sides and to the mid frame. Though there is little room there to attach anything. Oh... I misread your comment, yes the board too. I had allready considered that. I have what amounts to a 1 inch space in the case, the board is .75 so that leaves 1/8th per side. I don't think that fairing paint and biax will amount to more than a 1/16th so still have a more than 1/8th clearance. Hmmm.... sounds a bit tight. I will sand the board a bit and the only bit of it that will be .75 will be well up by the pivot most of the board will allready be less than .75. Come to think of it the .75 board is only nominally .75 and amounts to an actual of probably 11/16ths. I think it will be fine.
ks8 wrote:About the first CB case, couldn't you sawzall the thing open again and trim down the spacers and reglue with straight ones? I know it takes some time to do that, but not much. Or at least save that plywood for the mods that you haven't planned but know you will later. :)
I cut it apart and cut off the spacers and conserved the ply that was salvagable. I decided I had enough ply. I still have a whole sheet of 3/8th which should be good for my seat tops. I will use 1/4 for the fore deck and add a little extra bracing. I don't think I'll ever be tempted to stand up there. perhaps at the front frame but not further up.
ks8 wrote:And when you glue up the second one (or fix this one), you can clamp a straight 2x4 on either side to force even a slightly warped spacer straight for the cure, though of course it is best to use a good straight spacer. :) And you have to watch that the whole case isn't twisted in addition to not having a curved side.
I was more carefull this time. I don't think twist is likely. I did measure the opening after I had it clamped. it was a consistent 1" from end to end and a flat edge on both sides laid flat.
ks8 wrote:Also, when you glue down the case into the hull, you can put some spacers up into the case opening up about 1.5 inches so that it maintains the proper space when curing, or even slightly more (the *up in the slot* glass wrap will steal some space from the slot opening), and won't accidentally get glued up in there permanently. These spacers can be removed from the underside before you do the *up into the slot* glass wrap.
I thought of that but I don't think it will be nessasary. I'm pretty sure it was the clamping action that caused the bow well.... that and my questionable carpentry skills. I'm no finish carpenter.

ks8
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Re: CV16 Wyvern

Post by ks8 »

You may not want to stand on the foredeck, but someone else might, and it is very very handy for spotting stumps and rocks. I probably would have been fine with the strength of that deck just by glassing both sides, but as it is, a 300 lb crew could probably drop the large anchor on it, and only I would break... not the boat. :lol:

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Matt wanted to try for some *large* bass we saw jumping in among the stumps. I had no problem with that as long as he got up there and spotted. He had no problem with that. :) Or bringing in a 17.5 inch spotted bass with a topwater lure. :)

THough there isn't as much room there because of my console, if you have a nominal sense of balance, it is very nice to cast from up there (with no sail rig), with plenty of reserve buoyancy. But bed your bow eye well in 4200. Standing up there will likely push the bow down to right about the boweye. It is a wonderful boat. :)

One sheet of ply will give you your seat tops from the forward frame to the rear frame, but not to the transom, which will require another 1/2 sheet, or maybe whatever scraps you have left. With the mods I was doing, I didn't always strictly follow the nesting guide. Enjoy... :)

chrisobee
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Re: CV16 Wyvern

Post by chrisobee »

One sheet of ply will give you your seat tops from the forward frame to the rear frame, but not to the transom, which will require another 1/2 sheet, or maybe whatever scraps you have left. With the mods I was doing, I didn't always strictly follow the nesting guide. Enjoy...
Its good to know but I'm too old and too fat to climb up there. I admit it might take some creativity to get all the seats out of 1 sheet of ply but I'm gonna try. I will cut patterns for the seat tops and see what happens. If not I have plenty of 1/4. If I have to use that for seats then I can use the 3/8 for the fore deck.

Got my additional biax today and finished the outside seams. That stuff just drinks up the epoxy.

Hey KS.... How much lead did you add to your centerboard? As in how much additional weight did it require. I'm not looking or volume. A work buddy of mine donated a lead pipe to the effort and I just wonder if it will be enough. I'm guessing about 15 pounds. Does that sound right?

chrisobee
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Re: CV16 Wyvern

Post by chrisobee »

I've moved forward a bit.

I have the tiller shaped.

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I have the centerboard case glued up and taped.

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I made and epoxy coated the mast step and main sheet pad.

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I plotted the place where I need to cut a huge gaping hole in the bottom of my boat!

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I actually followed through and cut a big gaping hole bottom of my boat.

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gk108
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Re: CV16 Wyvern

Post by gk108 »

Cutting that hole was a difficult mental adjustment for me, too. You do all of that work to make a good hull, then cut a huge hole in it. :?
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chrisobee
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Re: CV16 Wyvern

Post by chrisobee »

gk108 wrote:Cutting that hole was a difficult mental adjustment for me, too. You do all of that work to make a good hull, then cut a huge hole in it. :?
It was weird. I laid out the hole a couple of days ago and I just looked at it. Then I found that the next thing I need to to was the tiller. Pure avoidance. Tonight I just bit the bullet and cut the thing. One thing that this build is teaching me is the value of pressing on. I really want to be done with construction this month. Next week I'm taking a week of vacation. I'm going to stay home and work on the boat.

chrisobee
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Re: CV16 Wyvern

Post by chrisobee »

Constructed and attached the skeg last night. worked on the rudder and the attachment between tiller and rudder. Marked up the rudder in preparation for the shaping the foil. Have not worked up the nerve to take sander to foils. Probably this weekend.

chrisobee
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Re: CV16 Wyvern

Post by chrisobee »

There is a lot of work in the rudder/tiller and centerbord. I have the tiller mostly done, the rudder is taking shape I started working on the foil for the rudder. I went sailing on a precision 20 this last weekend. It was a sailing class. In many ways it is a very similar boat to the CV16. The rig at least is similar. The boat is somewhat larger and more elaborate. The bow is pointy and the boat entirely made of fiberglass. The biggest difference in the rig is that it has spreaders where the CV16 does not. I had a great time. We had a crew of 3 students and our instructor and we did our best to work our way up wind and not ram any pontoon boats. As always when I am on a sailboat I feel the approach of something like bliss. It did not last very long as the tiller was eventually taken by one of the other students and she did not do all that well steering. This sailing lark does seem to stop all progress on the boat. I did not get much done over the weekend. I am however reenergized and even more dedicated to getting this boat done. I will probably get the boat flipped back right side up today and begin the installation of the centerboard case and the mid frame. I must purchase the various hardware bits for the rudder pivot and Centerboard pivot.

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Re: CV16 Wyvern

Post by ks8 »

THough your CV16 isn't a Precision20, I think you'll find the relaxation and adventure no less fulfilling. If you haven't got your sails yet, have at least one deep reef sewn in the main. :wink:

My next time out, I'll measure how well she points and let you know. The only annoyance to date is when going into a steep chop, because of the sheets of water off the bow transom. CeeTime fixed that on his D5 with a deflector. Consider making one for those days. Other than that, she has kept us dry, even rolling over large wakes. And these cam cleats are priceless, right where they are, at least for me. Makes all the difference for a thoroughly relaxing sail, especially singlehanding. Right there to let the sheets fly if you get taken by surprise. I used their stronger aluminum model for the jib sheet, and the plastic for the main. The main is already a two purchase sheet. The jib gets a mighty load on it when the wind is blowing or gusting, despite what seems to be its small size.

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I mounted them on a pad so I could swap out different arrangements, but I think this one will be just fine for many years. The inclinometer helps tweak the heel angle, to gain almost half a knot in light air. That heel presents more sail higher up (like sailing an Optimist), and may also present a wetted area of less drag or maybe even more lift potential than the full rocker when floating upright. :wink:

Glad you had a rewarding experience in the Precision, though they have small diameter shrouds (uncomfortable to grab). I'm glad I took Jacques' wise advice to go a little larger, even though they aren't needed for the loads. I cleaned up today and found the section of the hull I cut out for the CB slot..... memories of a counter-intuitive event. A toast to holes in boats, but only where they belong. :lol: Keep those pictures coming. :)

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Cracker Larry
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Re: CV16 Wyvern

Post by Cracker Larry »

I will probably bury a wire in the keel fillet from the cuddy to the back of the mast step.
I wouldn't mess with the structure of that seam at all by burying wire in it.
I'm with KS, don't do that. If the mast ever takes a lightning strike, most of the current will run down that wire and possibly blow the hull apart while making a path for ground. It sounds dramatic and it is :help: I've seen it happen. Use a conduit, don't embed wires in fiberglass. Getting the glass shrapnel dug out of you legs is no fun at all. :wink:

As to the paint, you've sure invested a lot of time, and quality materials so far and doing a great job. Do you really want to slop some porch paint on her :?: You could save a few more bucks by using a mop, instead of rollers and brushes too :P
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