Here's some thoughts. Enjoy building her the way you will. Having sailed MOF, here's some ideas... first for the build and the woven tape...
chrisobee wrote:I can't say that I'm a fan of the woven tape either. Its only attractive quality is that I have about 85 yards of the stuff. It has one edge that is very thick and it comes unraveled very easilly. I'm going to experiment with sanding down the thick edge, perhaps I can improve it somewhat with a little attention.
When I do use the woven, I first cut off the larger edge. If you are reasoably careful, the fibers don't really fall apart much at all. It saves on the grinding and a little of the fairing, but takes time to cut (nothing compared to time grinding).
I must resist the temptation to buy a dremel tool. No more tools.
hmmmm.... I'll be quiet, except to say that I found it as handy as the RO, and used it almost as much.
I think I'm going to need to order about 10 yards of biax to finish the boat.
Go for it. I'm glad I've got two layers on the inside of the CB case to hull bottom seam. When crew leans on it, there are no worries now.
When underway...
...
I will run conduit down the starboard side under the seats and install two recepticles probably just behind the aft frame. Maybe just in front it would be more accessable.
I'm thinking just in front would be better... less *in the wayable* and just as accessible. A small box on the seat top, or above it, on the forward part of the rear frame, keeps the helm area clear. It is good to have that helm area clear with the least possible things on which the sheets might get snagged. With socket face oriented downward, you will plug the plug *up into the socket*. Makes rain water a non issue, the socket is completely rain proof with the enclosing box over it. If it powers a GPS and fishy finder, I find them best right in front of me on the seat, while in use. When I switch from side to side, they both move with me. I'll be mounting both on a small platform with a central short power lead to both, meaning only one wire to the *module*. That makes it that much easier to move both at once from side to side, with the single power and sonar cable a minimal concern. The power cable will have twisted leads to minimize messing up the nearby compasses. The helmsman rarely needs to go forward while underway. If you're fishing, it is a great convenience for easy clear access to both gadgets, to find bottom structure, and to mark it.
You can put a receptacle box right on the transom and stern seat top, for the trolling motor, and have some sort of conduit channel that runs through the under rear seat *foaming* too, for when you need to replace that heavy gauge wire. But tape the seat top to the transom and hull side before building such a box (if you put it right in the corner of the seam). That taped seam is structural. I'd also consider angling the receptacle down slightly and under a small overhang, in case it rains... and have the plug parallel to the transom surface so it doesn't stick into people traffic places. I can sketch if you like. And you can also completely ignore me. I'm sure what you come up with will be fine.
We are told not to solder the socket leads. Crimp and heat shrink tubing. VIbration causes metal fatigue and failure sooner with a soldered joint, though it may not be an issue in your lifetime...
I'll probably put a bus bar on the back side of the fore frame in case I want to install lights later.
Great idea. Its best put in a box so nothing loose in the cuddy can short it out. And fuse the run to it from the battery, and the runs out from it to the devices.
Do masts have quick dissconnects when they have a mast head light?
Yes.
I will probably bury a wire in the keel fillet from the cuddy to the back of the mast step.
I wouldn't mess with the structure of that seam at all by burying wire in it. Run the masthead light wire under the stbd seat also (in conduit in foam for easy replace), bring it out of the seat riser just forward of the main frame, and maybe run it in a piece of channel stock, stuck (with double sided tape) to the forward side of the main frame and then along the bottom of the CB case, under the pivot bolt, and to the mast step. Leave that keel seam structural with proper materials.
I intend to put in a support for the middle of the fore deck that will emerge from the deck to become the fore stay attachment point. this support will run from the front transom back to the front frame and be taped and filleted to both. I will glue the deck to the top of the support.
This arrangement, as given on the plans, is very strong. I biaxed the forward part of it to the bow transom. It has been tested in strong wind that pulled the jib sheet out of my hands.
I'm also tempted to install a bit of trim at the top of the fore frame to channel water to the sides.
A breakwater is a great idea, and looks good. The most water you will get is when heading into a chop and wind, at 3.5 to 5 knots (and that will get you all the way back at the helm as it sheets off the bow transom and blows back on you!), or when it rains. The break water doesn't need to be large at all. 3/4 inch high and rounded top will still allow someone to sit on the edge of the deck facing in the boat, mostly comfortable. If the sky really pours the water down, you're gonna get wet, and maybe gain or lose a super power in a flash and boom (been there... no... I won't tell what the super power is).
Before going to paint... I find the sheet cleats at the helm position essential. Everyone is different when it comes to such preferences, but I put it out there for you to think about. The pictures are in my gallery. You could through bolt them right to the seat tops instead of the extra structures I used, but use backing plates. The jib sheet cleat has a load on it that was able to rip the sheet out of my grip in a blow. I used the stronger metal cam cleat for the jib sheet. The main sheet has a 2:1 purchase. No cam cleats failed yet. But I'm wearing the gloves now.
I am also now thinking about painting the boat. First you must adjust your attitude to my expectation. This will not be objet d'art such as the M.O.F. masterpiece but rather a much rougher boat. What sort of paint do you think I should use. I teeter between the porch paint approach and using S3 products rolled and tipped.
S3, I believe, will be adding an additional layer of water seal protection over the epoxy and primer. I am doubtful about how well the porch paint would seal it further.
Well, there's some ideas. No matter what you decide, don't forget a picture now and then.