PK78--First time builder progress report and recommendations

[MikeS]

The outside corner radius helps the biax cloth make the turn without pulling away and leaving air pockets along the joint. If you don't use a good healthy radius (3/8" ) you will have bubbles for sure.

MikeS

[Stainless]

Well, it's been a long time since my last update. The project is still progressing. Just slowly...

The major undertaking since my last update has been working with epoxy fillers--exterior and interior. I have had mixed results. In many ways this has been my least favorite part of the process thus far.

The exterior has gone well. I have figured out how to apply slightly thickened epoxy in a way that gives me a nearly glass smooth bottom with very little sanding between coats:
- Coat well with epoxy and let cure
- Fill in the weave of the glass tape with filler
- Sand thoroughly (this first sanding is the most important one)
- Mix the epoxy with Cab-o-sil to abou the thickness of honey
- Spread on with a 4" spreader use a light hand to smooth it out. Strokes from keel to chine work best.

The interior is another matter. Firstly, the epoxy "putty" is a different animal than other materials that I've used (primarily spackle). Getting a smooth spread has been beyond me. I am particularly flummoxed by the problem of getting a nice smooth pass into the center of the joint. I know that a good filling job starts with a good hand with the spreader, and I am challenged... My only advice to others is to be careful not to make the filler to stiff: it won't adhere well and it spreads poorly. Too thin is also problematic, but can easily be addressed by adding a touch more filler to the mix after you get started.

Secondly, sanding the interior joints, especially the corners has been difficult. This has been frustrating as it has pitted my fastidiousness squarely against my impatience. I have struggled on, but I'm a bit worried about how it will look when I put paint on it. I have yet to find any good way to deal with these. I bought a "Mouse" sander and it seems to help, but the sander is not holding up very well to the demands that I'm putting on it.

My next endeavor is the rubrail. I did a little research on the forums. I'm a little depressed that the plans didn't include the suggestion to use the cutouts as patters for the rails. I'll probably have to re-draft the lines and hope that I'm reasonably consistent.

I'm also considering adding limber holes on either side of the centerboard trunk and at the chine of the middle bulkhead. I'm thinking maybe 1/2" in diameter. I'll probably just grind them into existence with my Dremel.

I'm looking for advice on building the mast step. Any words of wisdom before I get started? I'm not too keen on creating a great big pile of putty. I'm worried about how to keep it from runing and making a mess.

I'm also interested in advice regarding shaping the foils. I have sanders and grinders and even a planer. What process have people found most effective? There is a note from Jacques about how to do it, but the URLs that he refers to are 404.

Lastly, is there any advice for the knees? How to people align them with the curve of the bow and the transom?

Below are some nearly current pictures of the boat. I'm in the process of glassing in the seats and then filling in the glass of the seat joints. The stern seat is essentially done. The midships seat is waiting for the filler to be sanded out and the bow seat is waiting for the filler to be applied. I'll get some pictures of the bottom next time.

[Rick]

Where's your mast partner and step? Where's the cutout for the tiller? I was surprised to see a daggerboard trunk but no place to stick the mast. Are you going to sail it? At first I thought it was rowing version until I noticed the trunk.

I'll see if I can remember to take pictures of my knees this weekend. It's sort of a "what looks right" kind of thing. I cut mine out of solid mahogany. They are going to look good just as soon as I get around to varnishing them.

I shaped my foils with a Stanley #5 plane. It didn't take that long, and it was refreshing to not have to use a dust mask and hearing protection. For a boat that will only move at 3 knots, I wouldn't waste much time with high-tech NACA profiles.

My rubrails are laminated from a resawn piece of 4/4 mahogany. I cut them straight and they laid nicely along the gunwale. I wouldn't bother with fancy shaping.

I see that you didn't bother with the teeny-tiny pieces of the rear seat that are supposed to be just forward of the seat frame. Good move. They are a pain in the butt to cut and install, and don't really serve much purpose.

If it ever stops raining I swear I'll paint and varnish my boat.

[Stainless]

As I mentioned, I'm still thinking about how to build up the mast step. Advice is welcome

I just haven't gotten to cutting out the mast partner and the tiller cutout yet. I always planned on doing the mast partner after the seat was installed to ensure that it was properly centered. The tiller cutout is waiting for me to decide what style to go with.

I will row the boat as well as sail it. I'm still thinking about how I want to install the oarlocks. What have other people done? There used to be a bunch of photos of completed PK78's and D5's on the website, but I can't seem to find them anymore.

I'll look at some solid wood to resaw for the rubrails this weekend at the lumber stores. I'm planning on painting all of the boat--no brightwork. I'll probably just get a fairly clear piece of whatever and use it.


Thanks.